IMAGE  EVALI  'ATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


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2.2 

1.8 


1.25      1.4 

1.6 

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PhotDgraphic 

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CIHM/ICMH 

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Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notas  tachniques  at  bibiiographiquaa 


Tha  instltuta  has  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  bast 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturas  of  this 
copy  which  may  ba  bibllographically  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  images  In  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


n 


n 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couieur 


I     I   Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag^a 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurAe  et/ou  peilicui^e 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  g6ographiques  en  couieur 

Coloured  inic  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couieur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I   Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


□ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couieur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
RaliA  avac  d'autras  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  mergin/ 

La  reiiure  sarr^e  paut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutAes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissant  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  AtA  filmias. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmentaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfiim6  le  meilleur  exempiaire 
qu'll  lui  a  AtA  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
da  cet  exempieire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibiiographique,  qui  pauvent  nr.odifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m6thode  normale  de  fiimage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


to 


nn   Coloured  pages/ 


D 


Pages  de  couieur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag6es 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restauries  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxet 
Pages  d^coior^es,  tachat^es  ou  piqu6es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachtes 

Showthrough> 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  ir.6gale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materic 
Comprend  du  ma  §riel  suppl4mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


I  I  Pages  damaged/ 

I  I  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

I  I  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I  I  Pages  detached/ 

rn  Showthrough/ 

I  I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I  I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I  I  Only  edition  available/ 


Tr 

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Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc..  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata.  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmies  A  nouveau  de  fa^on  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


12X 


16X 


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20X 


26X 


30X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


Bils 

du 

difier 

jne 

laga 


Th«  copy  filmed  her*  has  bean  raproducad  thanks 
to  tha  ganarosity  of: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 

Tha  imagas  appearing  hara  ara  tha  bast  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  Iceeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  las:  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  tha  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios   Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upf^er  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


L'exemplaire  film*  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
gAn6rosit*  da: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 

Las  images  suivantes  ont  At*  reproduites  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin.  compta  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattet*  de  rexemplaira  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avac  las  cc  editions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couvarture  en 
papier  est  imprimAe  sont  fiimAs  en  commen^ant 
par  la  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  la  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  las  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  an  commanpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  darniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaltra  sur  la 
darnidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Las  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffArents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  ciichA,  il  est  film*  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droits, 
et  de  haut  an  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammas  suivants 
iliustrant  la  mAthode. 


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1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

Outline  Map  of  Alaska,  from  "TJu 


ft 


p  of  Alaska,  from  "The  Review  of  Fteviewa." 


^ 


fcf 


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AMERICAN  DESTINY  SERIES. 


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ODR 


Alaskan  Wonderland 


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AND 


Klondike  Neighbor 


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^ 


A  Personal  Reminiscence  and  Thirtj 
Years  After. 


By  DeB.  RAiNDOLPH  KEIM, 

H^ar  Correspotidenl  with  Grant,  Shftmatt,  Shtr- 
tdau,  Banks.    Foreign  Correspovdent  in  Eu- 
rope, Asia,  Africa,    Australasia,    Three 
Americas.  Washington  Correspondent 
when  in  the  U.  S.,  igd^-gS.    Agent 
for  the  examination  of  Con- 
sulates of  the  (\  S.,  1874-^. 
IVith  confidential    in- 
structions concern- 
ing Diplomatic 
Missions  of 
the  U.S.' 


Thb  Hakriiburo  Pubmshino  Company. 
W«»hiiigton,  D.  C.    Harrisburjf,  Pa. 


t 


I 


YIU) 


Copyright  i?<jS 
By  DcB.  RANDOLPH  KKIM. 

A I1 1  iglits  lesftved. 


Press  of 

n  arrisborg  publishing  company, 

Harrisburo,  Pennsylvania. 


1 


A  TRIBUTE  TO 

WILLIAM  H.  SEWARD 

or  New  York, 

Secretary  of  State  of  the  United  States  ol 
America  during  the  administrations  of 

Abraham  Lincoln 

AND 

ANDREW  Johnson. 

1861-69. 

Not  only  to  recall  the  Statesmanship  and  Diplo- 
matic Skill  displayed  in  the  Acquisition  of  a 
vast  Territory  of  pervading  strategic  im- 
portance in  the  Manifest  Destiny  of  the 
Republic  of  the  United  States  of  Amer- 
ica, but  to  commend  to  his  Country- 
men the  example  of  his  Ameri- 
canism and  his  distinpuished 
public   services   in    the   ad- 
vancement of  United  States 
institutions    and   com- 
manding power. 


Pacific  N.  W.  History  Dept 

OROVINCIAL.  UIBRARY 
VICTORIA,  B.  C. 


GOLDEN  RULES  IN 
GOLDEN  LANDS. 


"  Tlie  asseveratiouft  of  loyalty  which  1  hear  on 
both  sides  from  British  subjects  and  residetit 
Americans  admonishes  us  that  we  are  liable  to 
be  misunderstood  *  '*'  give  me  your  assent, 
therefore,  to  a  few  preliminaries.  First,  that  the 
loyalty  of  the  British  subject  is  fully  acknowl- 
edged and  respected  on  my  part,  ♦  *  *  On 
the  other  hand  I  freely  confess  that  it  is  my  po- 
litical ambition  to  see  that  the  United  States  of 
America,  of  which  I  am  a  native  citizen,  tran- 
scend even  the  British  Nation  in  civil  and  re- 
ligious liberty  and  usefulness  to  the  human 
race.    •    *    * 

"I  have  never  heard  any  person  on  either  side  of 
the  United  States  border  assert  that  British  Co- 
lumbia is  not  a  part  of  the  American  continent 
or  that  its  people  have  or  can  have  any  interest 
material,  moral  or  social  difTereut  from  the  com- 
mon interest  of  all  American  Nations." 
[Speech  of  IVilliam  H.  Seward,  August,  1S69,  at 

Victoria,  British  Columbia.^ 

"  I  early  accepted  and  continually  held  fast 
to  these  several  political  convictions : 

"  I.  That  if  a  nation  desires  to  be  independent 
and  prosperous  and  enjoy  peace  at  home  and 
abroad,  it  must  expand  itself  commeusurately 
with  .ts  resources  and  advantages. 

"  2.  1  hat  human  bondage  is  incompatible  with 
a  successful  Republic. 

"  3.  That  the  permanent  continuance  of  Eu 
ropean  or  monarchical  government  in  the 
American  hemisphere  would  be  injurious  and 
dangerous  to  the  United  States. 

"  4.  That  in  the  expansion  of  the  Republic  the 
establishment  and  acceptance  of  new  States  on 
the  same  footing  as  the  original  States  is  essen- 
tial for  the  security  of  civil  and  religious  lib- 
erty." 
[Speech  cf   William  H.  Seward,  1869,  at  Salem, 

Oregon.] 


I 

> 


PREFACE. 


TSie  following  itagen  nbou.  3r«iter 
Alaska"  t>f  to-<lay  are  nn  outgrowth  'f 
a  serice  of  rt'miniscent  writlugs  recalling 
8uiue  of  tlio  sceiw  •»  and  exporieace  -jit- 
tondinir  tho  acqulaitioin  of  the  Kn^sian.'tor- 
ritory  in  tlie  uortb western  correr  oS.  tho 
Nortn  Aiaerican  henii«ph<Te  and  in  which 
the  author  waH  a  participant  as  n  journal- 
ist. 

The  w^riter  naturally,  after  a  personal 
knowledjfe  of  the  ohstacki,  encountei^ 
in  seciTring  tho  approi>riatiou  of  the  pur- 
cha«e  money  by  CoiiiRroas,  the  negotiation 
of  the  tieatj'  itaelf  havinig  been  a  nuatter 
of  the  utmost  intemiational  frictndshjp  be- 
tween the  United  States  and  Russia,  liaa 
followed  each  developing  sbage  in  the 
Iirogress  of  the  tprritary- 

The  present  rohime  has  been  writteai 
from  pet^oual  n'oolWitions  of  precedent 
events  a  nd  from  the  latest  official  ujiid  ex- 
port autJhorities. 

The  BAithor  desire*  to  express  hi*  sense 
of  obligation  to  Hon.  Frederick  W.  Sew- 
ard, of  Moaiitrose-on-the-Hudson,  N.  Y., 
First  Assistant  Secretary  of  State  of  tho 
United  States,  1867,  and  the  chiefs  of  the 
National  Executive  Departments  and 
departmental  burtoaois  in  touch  with  Alas- 
kan administration.  Also  to  Mr.  Amzi 
Smith,  Superintendent  of  the  United 
Statee  Senate  Document  Room.  United 
States  Capitol. 

In  its  proper  place  the  efficiency  of  de- 
partmental management  of  dotaiils  in  tlie 
absence  for  years  of  organic  statutory 
contPolof  the  affairp  of  the  teTitory  in 
referred  to  si>ecifically.  This  is  one  of 
the  most  striking  and  encouraging  feat- 
ures of  our  form  of  national  administra- 
tion, where  derelictions  of  tho  leffislative 
may  be  compensated  by  the  oxi'cutive 
branch  of  the  Government. 

The  hope  that  these  pages  might  con- 
tribute in  a  popular,  authoritative  and 
coniprt'luMisive  form  to  a  better  acquaint- 


OUR  ALABKAN 

an<?e  with  "Our  Alaskan  Wonderland  and 
Klondike  Neighbor"  was  the  incentive  to 
this  work. 

Our  Alaska  is  not  only  a  region  of  phy- 
sical wonders,  but  of  unlimited  developed 
and  almost  ineomprehensible  unexploited 
physical  wealth  which  the  sovereign  peo- 
ple of  the  United  States  at  large  are  just 
beginning  to  realize  they  possess. 

That  it  will  be  the  seat  of  a  large  in- 
dufitria]  class  of  citizens  is  undoubted. 
That  millions  upon  millions  of  vested  cap- 
ital will  be  placed  there  goes  without  say- 
iiog.  That  it  will'  be  one  of  the  fore- 
most productive  sections  of  the  United 
States  the  near  future  vrill  unfold. 

The  author,  in  looking  back  to  his  fre- 
queot  interview's  with  Mr.  Seward  dur- 
ing the  progress  of -this  great  acquisition 
and  the  earnestness  of  that  great  states- 
man in  the  promotion  of  the  glory  of  his 
country  is  more  impressed  than  ever  that 
the  Divine  Master,  who  holds  in  his  hand 
the  destiny  of  oiiations,  and  of  our  own 
particularly  agiiinst  the  purility.  nanow- 
ness  and  mental  blindness  of  many  of 
its  own  citizens  called  statesmen  brought 
to  the  front  William  H.  Seward  in 
1867,  Washington  in  1775,  Jackson  in 
1812,  Lincoln  in  1861,  Grant  in  18G3.  and 
other  truly  ilhistrious  citizens  in  times  of 
national  opportunity  or  emergency. 

The  Author. 

Washington,  D.  C,  1808. 

Tlie  signing  of  the  Treaty  of  Cession  of 
Russian- America  to  the  United  States. 
March  30th.  1807.  is  a  copy  of  the  jiaint- 
ing  Tjy  Leutze.  Beginning  at  the  left-hand 
of  the  illustration  the  figures  are  Vladimir 
Boflisco,  secre'tary  of  the  Ruisisan  Lega- 
tion; William  H.  Seward,  United  States 
Secretary  of  State;  William  Hunter.  Sec- 
ond Assistant  Secretary  of  State;  R.  S. 
Chew,  Chief  Olerk  Department  of  Staie; 
Edward Stoeckl,  Russiini  Plenipotentiary; 
Charles  Sumner,  of  Massachusetts,  Unit- 
ed States  Senator;  Frederick  W.  Seward. 
First  Assistant  Secretary  of  State.  Thr» 
background  represents  the  Secretary's  of- 
fice in  the  old  quarters  of  the  department. 

fi 


IM 


WONDERLAyO 


CO  A/ TENTS. 


Pages. 

Preface, H 

Contents, 7 

I.  An  Alaskan  Romamice'-The  CJourt- 
ship  of  the  Russian  Bear  aind  Miss 
Oolumbia— A  Reminiscence 11 

II.  Thirty  Years  After— The  Magic 
Wand  of  Gold 26 

III.  Alaskan  Possibilities,   37 

IV.  UafurUng  the  Flag — Interna- 
tiomal  Ceremouy  and  Salute 49 

V.  Hoiw  the  $7,200,000  Was  Worn,. .     58 

VI.  As  in  a  Mirrop— Hoiw  They 
Voted 69 

VII.  Alaskan  Discovery — Story  of 
the  Frigid  Zone,  . .    81 

VIII.  Alaskan  Cartography  —  De- 
grees Instead  of  Miles, 89 

IX.  How  Alaiska  Looks, 99 

X.  A  Wonder  of  Rivers— Through 
Golden  Lands  and'  a  Thousand 
Isles,   109 

XI.  ^lountain  Momarolis 123 

XII.  Plutonic  Fires— IslaJids  Rise 
Out  of  the  Waves,  133 

XIII.  Icy  Laboratories— Glacial  The- 
ory in  Operation,   143 

XIV.  Climatic  Alaska— Land  of  the 
Midnight  SuJi 155 

XV.  An  Arctic  Edeur— Walru®, 
Salmon  and  Moose  Instead  of  Ap- 
ples, Soa  Otter  and  Seal  Skins  In- 
stead of  Fig  Leaves,   167 

XVI.  Eskimo-Americans, 179 

XVII.  Aquatic  Aleuts,    189 

XVIII.  Time's  Score— The  Rivalry 
of  Nations     For    the     Wealth  of 

XIX.  Sitka— Growing '  Alaska  iwus  209 
XX    Unalaska  —  Mid-Ocean    Stra- 
tegic Key  to  Three  Seas 223 

XXI.  St.  Miehaeli— Point  Barrow— 
The  Mart  of  the  Yukooi  amd  Me- 
tropolis of  Polar  Regions, 233 

XXII.  Agricultural   Alaska,    245 

XXIII.  Minions  in  Furs 259 

XXIV.  Our  Alaskan  Aquarium, ...  273 

7 


ni 


OVR  ALASKAN  WONDERLAND 

XXV.  Oold— Onr  Alaskan  Ai-go- 
iiaiurts  in  Pursuit  of  Yukon  Treas- 
tu'ea,  281 

XX VI.  Our  KloaMlike  Xeighilxvr — 
Urttold  Treasures  and  Umtald  Sac- 
rifices for  the  Precious  Metal',   .  .   205 

XXVII.  Crucible  Tests— "U  n  cl'e 
Sam"  a  Spot  Cash  Buyer  ol  All 
Gold  Presented  at  Mints 3(>9 

XXVIII.  Transportation— iMcn  and 
Dogs  for  Burthen— Reindeer  for 
Express 315 

XXIX.  Alaskan   Adauinistration,.  .  327 

XXX.  "AM  Aboard"— R  a  i  1  r  o  a  d 
Routes  awl  Water  Way® — World- 
I'ound  Route  for  American  "Globe 
Trotteiv* 339 


ILLUS7RAT/0yS. 


Outline  Map  of  Alaska. 
Signing  the  Treaty. 
Sitka,  tlie  Alaskan  Capital. 
The  Author. 
.Tiuieau. 

Mount  St.  Elias,  tho  International  Cor- 
ner Stone. 
UnaDaska. 

Salmon'  Fishing  Station. 
ThQ  Glacier's  Front. 
Bering  Strtaits. 
Hai-poonlng  the  Wliale. 
Yukon  Mining  Regions. 
Miners  En  Route. 
Miners,  Upper  Yukon. 
A  Reindeer  Team. 
A  Seal  Rookery. 
Interviewing  Secretary  Seward. 


w 


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OurAlasb  Wonderland 


A  Series  of  Newspaper  Letters  Suggested 
by  the  Recollection  of  Frequent  Inter- 
views, as  a  Washington  Correspon- 
dent, Pending  the  Negotiations 
with  Russia,  with  the  Eminent 
Statesman,  who  Added   to 
the  Diadem  of  the  Ameri- 
can Union  its  Subarctic 
and  Arctic  Gems. 


"'""N 


Copyright,  1897,  by  DeB.  Randolph  Kelm. 


ICE, 


LETTER  NUMBER  I. 


The  Story  of  the  Conrtship  ot 

the  Russian  Bear  and 

Miss  Columbia. 


An  Alliance  to  Bar  England  Out  of 
the  Commerce  of  the  East. 


THE  PACIFIC  AN  AMERICAN  LAKE 


The  War  Cry  of  '54-40  or  Fight'  Fonid  An 
Echo  at  St.  Petcrsbarg. 


Some  Peraonal  Remlnlaceneea  ot  a  Pro- 

fcMloual     Mzperlnioe     Oonn*  lited 

\iritli  an  sTvent  Which  Now 

Thrills   the  World. 


In  tm  upper  suite  of  ajxart- 
ments  in  a  rambling  structure 
near  the  noarthem  limits  of  thie  Natiooa.! 
Capital,  erected  for  an  asylum,  founded 
under  the  patronage  of  DoMy  P.  MadiaoD, 
wife  of  the  fourth  President  of  the  United 
11 


/I 


1 


OUR  ALASKAN 


Statee,  tor  orphans  of  soldiers  and  sadl- 
OTO  of  the  UnJ''  "  States  In  the  War  of 
1812,  had  been  .seted,  through  the  eb- 
bing? and  flowi  ,  tide  of  time  twixt  the 
29th  and  30th  d^.  a  of  March,  in  the  year 
1867,  two  statesmen  of  world-wide  fain«. 

The  simply-furnished  and  somewhat 
wierdly-lighted  ai>artment8  had  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  culminating  stages  of 
some  great  event  in  the  affairs  of  man 
amd  nations.  There  were  present  the 
plenipotentiary,  secretaries  and  attachee 
of  a  mighty  empire,  and  the  Secretary  of 
State  and  his  assistants  of  a  great  repub- 
lic. 

There  were  also  present  the  scribes  end 
ready  interpreters  of  two  powerful  na/- 
tions.  In  wild  confusion  strewn  over  the 
tables  was  a  mass  of  stationery,  oovetred 
with  the  mystic  characters  of  the  Slavic 
or  the  simpler  ehirography  of  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  and  Latin  family  of  languages, 

Ajs  time  sped  onward  toward  dawn  this 
babel  of  roaghly  inscribed  annotated 
sheets  in  Slavic  and  Roman  characters 
end  three  tongues  under  the  deft  manipu- 
lation of  the  secretaries,  assumed  the  ele- 
gance and  acctiracy  of  engrossed  parch- 
men*8  with  great  seals  and  other  cere- 
monial appendages  of  international  Stats 
documents  attached,  conveying  in  parallel 
columns  the  Anglo-Saxon  vernacular  and 
the  French  diplomatic  version  of  thte 
stipulationn,  "word  for  word,"  agreed 
upon  by  the  high  contracting  pai-tieis. 

In  the  earlier  part  of  the  evening  of 
the  29th  or  of  date  the  17th  in  the  tar- 
dier notation  of  time  Jn  the  imperial  calen- 
dar, there  arrived  hurriedly  at  the  por- 
tals of  ain>  historic  mansion  on  liafayette 
Place  a  messenger  wearing  th^  livery  of 
a  royal  master,  who  conveyed  to  the  por- 
ter within  a  sealed  packet  embossed  with, 
the  armorial  bearings  of  the  vast  empire 
of  the  North, 

Its  contents,  simple  in  terms  and  brief 
in  detail,  at  once  electrified  not  only  the 
aged  and  decrepit  statesman  to  whom, 
the  packet  had  been  handed,  but  brought 
forth  a  prompt  response  of  acknowledg- 
me^  and  invitation  to  final  cotifeirenice. 

An  hour  lat^r  the  principals  were  in 
.12 


\ 


WONDERLAND 


earnest  adjustment  of  the  finifihini;  tenns 
of  the  great  act.  Their  assistantsi  were 
in  scrupulous  supervision  examining 
and  comparing  the  terms  and  pliraeinga 
as  they  would  stand  recorded  for  wir  or 
peace  so  far  as  human  agencies  could 
malce  them  upon  the  duplicated  sheets  of 
parchment  for  signature,  Imperial  con- 
firmation. Senatorial  ratification,  mutual 
exchange,  Presidential  proclamation  and 
as  a  lK>nd  of  perpetual  friendship  and 
moraiL  union  between  the  most  powerful 
republic  and  most  formidable  empire  of 
ancient  or  modem  times. 

These  scenes  of  activity  and  zealous 
negotiation  at  4  o'clock  on  the  morning 
of  the  30th  day  of  March,  American  style, 
in  the  year  1867,  reached  a  triumphant 
culmination  in  "the  treaty  concerning  the 
cession  of  the  Russian  possessions  in 
North  America  by  His  Majesty,  the 
Emperor  of  aU  the  Russias,  to  the  Unit- 
ed States  of  America,"  concluded  by  the 
signatory  powers  and  their  agents,  Wil'- 
liam  H.  Seward,  Secretary  of  State  of 
the  Doited  States,  and  Edouard  de 
Stoeckl,  Envoy  Extraordinary  and  Minis- 
Plenipotentiary  to  the  United  States 
aittd  Privy  Counsellor  to  His  Majesty, 
the  Emperor  of  all  the  Russias,  in  con- 
sideration of  the  payment  of  $7,000,000 
for  the  ceded  territory  and  $200,000  to 
cover  contingencies  and  encumbrances 
by  the  associated  companies  in  gold. 

The  mysterious  packet  which  had  so 
suddenly  turned  exi>ectancy  into  realiza- 
tion contained  the  following  (translation) 
words:  •  *  *  "by  a  telegram  dated 
16-28  of  this  month,  from  St.  Petersburg, 
Prince  GortchakofiE  informs  me  that  His 
Majesty,  the  Emperor  of  all  Ruissias, 
give*  his  consent  to  the  cession  of  the 
Russian  possessions  on  the  American 
continent  to  the  United  States  for  the 
■tipulated  sum  of  7,200,000  doUojis  in 
gold,  and  that  BUs  Majesty,  the  Emperor, 
iraveis'ts  me  with  fuJl  powers  to  negotiate 
and  sign  the  treaty.    •    •    •     Steockl. 

The  inceptive  and  pro^Tressive  stages  of 
this  earliest  romance  of  our  modem  sub- 
arctic El  Dorado  received  from 
the     living     lips     of     the     somewhat 

'  13 


OUR  ALASKAN 


stern  and  summary  statorman 
and  the  pladd,  considerate  and 
courtly  mannered  dij^lomat,  nuake  an 
interetotinir  inside  narrative  of  an  inter- 
notional  courtship  which  begani  in  the 
stages  of  Russian  barbaric  mer- 
sreance  into  Western  civilization 
aind  the  conquered  American  transition 
from  coloniali  subjection  into  national 
autonomy  between  the  two  foremost 
powers  of  the  earth  to-day. 

It  was  not  alone  self  but  honest  grlorifi- 
cation  of  republican  diplomaitic  methods 
which  caused  the  chief  officer  of  the 
American  Cabinet,  seated  k*  his  "official 
den"  to  earnestly  exdaim  to  the  writer 
"this  diplomatic  event  was  accompUshed 
without  precedent  protocols  or  de- 
spatches and  the  transmission  of  but  two 
brief  notes  between  the  two  negotiatx>rs." 

The  antecedent  career  of  WirJam  H. 
Seward  in  private  and  public  affairs 
pointed  that  mon  out  as  early  as  the  miid- 
century  period  of  the  political  contentions 
over  questions  of  national  politics  as  a 
statesman  of  comprehensive  views  upon 
American  destiny. 

The  growth  of  friendship  between  the 
United  States  and  Russia  began  with  tht 
establishment  of  the  Independence  of  the 
American  colonies  and  had  been  mani- 
fested more  than  once  in  times  of  crit- 
ical relation  with  other  European  powers. 

In  the  midst  of  the  commerciali  and 
clandestine  hostility  and  intrigue  of  most 
of  tlie  European  States  in  the  earlier 
stages  of  the  Rebeiliion  in  the  Southern 
States  against  the  peri>etuation  of  the 
American  confederation  Russia  held  an 
attitude  in  the  very  outset  of  substantial 
sympathy  and  solicitude  for  the  stability 
of  the  Union. 

The  most  notable  instance  of  this  was 
the  verbal  understanding  between  the 
two  governments  that  the  United  Statee 
would  be  at  liberty,  if  it  should  be  found 
necessary,  to  carry  prizes  taken  on  the 
high  seas  from  any  nation  at  war  with  it 
or  under  the  insurgent  flag,  into  Russian 
ports  for  adjudication  or  sale.  It  was  also 
a  fact  often  reverted  to  by  New  York's 
foremost  statesmen  to  the  writer  that 
14 


WONDERLAND 


rouLn 

and 

on 

linter- 

the 

mer- 

sation 

sidon 

LtioiMtl 

remost 


during  the  enitire period  of  tlie Rebellion  of 
the  South  when  other  nations— Dngland 
and  her  colonies.  Germany,  France  aitd 
Spain— were  engaged  in  sinister  dallying 
and  treating,  no  confederate  agent  was 
ever  received,  encouraged  or  entertained 
at  St.  Petersburg. 

Even  difficulties  growing  oat  of  com- 
plaints usually  traced  to  the  active 
schemes  of  European  and  Confederate 
intriguers  were  adjusted  by  verbal  ex- 
planation without  even  committal  to 
writing. 

In  the  winter  of  1863,  it  Is  well  re- 
membered, by  those  of  ample  years  to 
justify  such  a  contemporaneous  recollec- 
tion, the  visit  of  the  Rusaian  fleet  to  the 
hoirbor  of  New  York  and  the  roads  off 
Hampton,  the  first  line  of  maritime  de- 
fense of  the  Amerioam  Capital,  was  in- 
tended by  the  Emperor,  Alexander  II, 
and  was  «o  accepted  by  the  Preoident, 
Abraham  Ldncolin,  and  the  people  of  the 
United  States  as  a  demonstration  of  good 
will  and  a  notice  to  E}nigland,  France, 
Germany  and  Spain  or  all  the  nations 
of  the  earth  that  the  ice-bound  Baltic 
could  not  stay  the  powers  of  the  empire 
in  defense  of  the  American  Union. 

The  long  and  steadfast  courtship  be- 
tween the  Russian  Bear  and  Columbia, 
the  maiden  of  nations,  was  brought  still 
closer  in  intimacy  between  the  authori- 
ties of  the  two  countries,  by  an  under- 
standing to  act  in  concert  for  the 
establisbment  of  a  line  of  telegraph 
between  St.  Petersburg  and  Woishington 
tlirough  an  interocean  cable  across  the 
narrow  straits  of  Bering  then  within 
the  dominion  of  the  Emperor,  to  comieet 
with  a  land  service  across  Siberia  toward 
the  East  and  the  United  States,  the  Brit- 
ish and  Russian  possessions  toward  the 
West. 

The  scheme  negotiated  at  St.  Peters- 
burg and  Washington  was  sanctioned  by 
the  necessairy  statutory  enactments 
of  Congress. 

The  courtship  continued  in  December 
of  1864,  when  the  President  invited  the 
Emperor  Alexander  II    to  send  his  prin- 
cipal adyiser,  the  Grand  Duke  Constan- 
ts 


rTl 


OUR  ALASKAN 


1 


tine  to  make  a  visit  ta  the  United  States, 
to  be  received  by  the  President  and  peo- 
ple as  their  gue«t. 

The  condition  of  the  home  affaire  of  the 
Bmpire  alone  prevented  the  accomplislh- 
ment  at  that  time  of  this  further  act  of 
international  friendship. 

In  furtherance  of  this  proffered  token 
of  international  intimacy  the  American 
Plenipotentiary,  Greneral  Cassius  M. 
Olay,  of  Kentucky,  wes  directed  from 
Washington  to  bring  the  subject  to  the 
persoinal  attention  of  the  Grand  Duke. 
The  American  Plenipotentiary  was  am- 
ply fortifled  for  such  a  delicate  duty.  He 
had  been  President  Lincoln's  first  ap- 
podntee  and  h«d  become  a  favorite  eit  the 
brilliant  court  of  the  Czar  AJexander  II. 
After  little  over  a  year  -»  residence  he 
had  been  summarily  displaced,  with  evi- 
dent signs  of  imperial  disapprobation,  in 
order  to  make  room  for  Simon  Oameron, 
of  Pennsylranila,  This  veteran  official 
having  become  objectionable  to  the  Presi- 
dent, Abraliam  Lincoln,  and  his  Cabinet, 
hiad  been  unceremoniously  dispatched  to 
St.  Petersburg  as  plenipotentiary.  A 
residence  of  eight  m/onths.  made  irksome 
by  the  much  dampened  fervor  whdcfti  had 
hitherto  existed  between  the  two  coun- 
tries, brought  this  incident  to  a  close. 
Genera!  Clay,  whose  admirable  tact  had 
brought  him  to  the  attenrtion  of  the  Emper- 
or and  his  surroundings  was  once  more  es- 
tablished in  his  old  post  and  renewed  the 
cordial  relations  whidi  had  been  so  ruth- 
lessly interrupted. 

It  was  evident  from  Mr.  Seward's  very 
oblique  utterances  to  the  writer  that  he 
was  then  contemplating  personal  over- 
tures for  the  acquiescence  of  the  Emperor 
in  the  transfer  to  the  United  States  of  his 
vast  possessions  on  the  western  ^ores 
of  the  Pacific  for  a  consideration  to  be 
agreed  upon  as  ample  and  satisfactory. 

In  this  he  suggested  in  a  deeply  diplo- 
m'atic  way  a  misconception  of  the  actual 
conditions,  which  made  him  wish  it  were 
possible  for  the  Grand  Dnke  "to  come  out 
and  spend  a  few  months  in  America." 
The  Secretary  persisted  in  withholding  a 

16 


WONDERLAND 


Bpedflcation  of  his  reasons,  "as  they 
would  occur  to  the  envoy  as  well  as  to 
his  Imperial  Highness."  Which  tht-y 
seemed  not  to  have  done  when  most  es- 
sential. 

The  rapid  sequence  of  events  whidh 
finally  tended  to  the  immediate  negotia- 
tions and  consummation  of  the  traditional 
frien^hip  of  the  ruling  family  of  Ru9»'a 
and  of  the  personal  good  will  of  Alexan- 
der II,  from  tlie  throne  of  the  Roman- 
ofl^  began  not  in  the  older  and  more  ma- 
ture States  of  the  American  Union,  but 
in  the  most  remote  and  inaccessable 
parts  of  the  public  domain. 

In  February,  1866,  a  memorial  of  the 
Legislature  of  the  Territory  of  Washing- 
ton to  the  President  of  the  United  States, 
Andrew  Johnson,  called  the  attention  of 
the  Government  to  the  abundance  of  cod- 
fish, halibut  and  salmon  along  the  shores 
of  the  Ruscrian  possessions  and  aoking  on 
the  part  of  the  Government  the  negotia- 
tion of  arrangements  w'hich  would  pro- 
tect them  in  the  exploration  of  the  seas 
fi-om  "CJortez  Bank  to  Bering  Straits." 

Thiss  memorial  was  made  the  occasion 
of  a  correspondence  with  M.  de  Stoeckl, 
the  Russian  envoy  at  Washington,  by  the 
Secretary  of  State,  Mr.  Seward,  having 
in  view  arrangements  to  enable  the  dar- 
inp  fishermen  of  the  Pacific  coast  to  pene- 
trate those  unknown  seas  in  pursuit  of 
thei'-  perilous  vocation. 

At  the  time  these  preliminary  negotia- 
tions were  under  w'ay  in  April,  1866,  an 
attempt  upon  the  life  or"  Alexander  II 
wad  made  by  one  Karakozow.  This  atro- 
cious act  aroojsed  throughout  the  United 
States  the  most  supreme  indignation.  An 
expression  of  national  joy  upon  his  es- 
cape was  conveyed  to  the  Emperor  by  an 
oHioer  of  rank.  Assistant  Secretary  of  the 
Navy  Fox,  as  special  bearer  and  as  a 
demonstration  of  friendship. 

At  this  juncture,  in  October,  the  Rus- 
sian Envoy,  Edouard  de  Stoeckl,  who  had 
served  as  Russdan  Charge  d' Affaires  ad 
int.,  at  Washington,  as  early  at  1849,  and 
again  W  1854,  and  was  promoted  to  en- 
voy and  plenipotentiary  near  the  Govern- 


T 


OVR  ALASKAN 


Ki 


ment  af  the  Republic  in  1857,  left  for  St. 
Petersburg  as  part  of  an  understanding 
between.  himeeJf  and  Secretary  Sewai-d, 
to  ptv^mote  the  good  relaitions  existing 
between  the  two  countries. 

So  effectuauy  bad  the  preliminaries 
been  covered  ithait  the  following  March, 
less  th'an  five  months,  de  Stoeckl  waa 
again  at  his  post  awaiting  his  final  in- 
structions. These  reaching  him  on  the 
29t!h  of  the  same  month,  as  we  have  seen, 
before  the  dawn  of  the  day  following 
the  Russian  possessions,  on  the  Nortji 
American  continent,  so  far  as  the  con- 
cluded negotiations  were  concerned,  had 
become  an  Initegral  part  of  the  American 
Union. 

We  have  now  seen  the  sentimental  side 
of  this  courtship  of  two  mighty  nations. 

There  wasi  an  earlier  and  far-reaching 
motive  involved,  which  had  its  incep>tion 
in  the  unerring  and  undeviating  diplo- 
matic policy  of  the  Empire  inaugurated 
by  the  Dukes  of  Kief  eleven  centuries  be- 
fore, continued  by  the  Dukes  of  Wladi- 
mir,  Moscow  and  Muscovy,  consolidated 
by  thie  genius  of  Michael  Fedorovitz,of  the 
house  of  Romanoff,  and  amplified  in  its 
ramifications  in  the  international  rela- 
tions of  the  powers  of  the  globe  to-day  by 
his  descendants. 

In  1803,  while  returning  to  the  diplo- 
matic post  from  which  he  had  been  so 
unceremoniously  deposed,  the  re-appoint- 
ed American  Pleniiwtentiary,  General 
Clay,  had  aa  a  fellow  passenger  ou  the 
Atlantic  steamer  a  well-known  personage 
in  paiblic  affairs  during  the  ariministxa- 
tion  of  James  K.  Polk.  The  inaividual 
referred  to  had  been  that  functionary's 
Secretary  of  the  Treasury  in  the  last  half 
of  the  fourth  decade  of  the  present  cen- 
tury. He  had  signalized  his  presence  in 
the  official  family  of  the  Presidential 
Tennessean  by  dr«iw~ing  up  and  securing 
the  passage  of  one  of  tho  most  grotesque 
and  impracticable  systems  for  raising 
revenue  the  country  had  ever  seen,  and 
par  consequence  involved  Congiess  and 
the  people  in  the  utmost  political  turmoil. 
This  dai^>er  and  hustling  little  man  of 

18 


m 


"n 


for  St. 
itanding 
Sewai'd, 
existing 

ajnarios 

March, 

ckl  was 

inal  jn- 

on  the 

ve  seen, 

ollowing 

North 

the  con- 

led,  had 

Jnwican 


WONDERLAITD 

brains  and  expedients  with  whom  the 
writer  had  a  moet  enjoyable  acquaint- 
ance, is  known  to  American  politics  as 
Robert  J.  "Bobbie"  Walker,  of  Miasis- 
flippi.  It  was  during  the  activity  of  tliis 
administrative  regime  in  1846,  tbait  the 
Whig  surrender  of  1842,  which  culmin- 
ated in  the  Webster- Asbburton  treaty, 
concluded  in  that  year  relative  to  th© 
northwestern  territory,  began  to  ass-ame 
a  warlike  a«pect. 

It  had  been  claimed  by  the  United 
States  thiat  the  dividiag  line  by  previous 
treaty  arrangement  ran  along  the  parallel 
of  latitude  51  degrees  and  40  minutes 
from  the  seia  to  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  patriotism  of  the  people  was  arous- 
ed with  old-time  fervor  over  the  prospect 
of  a  war  with  England.  A  great  and 
do>minant  political  party,  the  Democrats, 
in  national  convention  of  1844  declared 
a."  a  canon  of  their  political  faith  "54-40 
or  fight." 

Upon  that  popular  cry  the  administra- 
tion of  James  K.  Polk  whirled  into  pow- 
er. The  popular  doctrine  was  sustained 
by  the  President  in  his  inaugural  address 
to  his  fellow  countrymen.  The  people 
were  ready  for  action. 

The  Congress  assembled  and  prepared 
for  war,  with  Lewis  Cass  as  the  leader, 
backed  by  th/e  Democratic  press  and  peo* 
pie. 

The  (>on^ess  gave  authority  and  order- 
ed notice  served  upon  Great  Britain  abro- 
Bating'  the  joint  occupation  of  the  disput- 
ed region  by  citizens  of  the  two  Powers. 
The  British  recetled  by  pro  posing' the  49th 
pai-allel  north  latitude  continuing  to  the 
ocean  which  had  previously  been  -suggest- 
ed in  1844  by  John  C.  Calhoun,  the  last 
of  the  series  of  Secretaries  of  State  under 
President  Tyler.  The  President  declined 
to  yield.  The  wily  Lord  Ashburton,  who 
bad  be«.'n  on  a  special  mission  and  under- 
stood the  sensibilities  of  American  poli- 
tics, very  adroitly  disarmed  the  D«no- 
cratic  "54-40  or  fight"  at  one  swoop  by  ob- 
sequeoiisly  acknowledging  the  conquest 
of  Oatiada  by  the  Uiiited  States  in  eveast 
of  war,  and  the  eLOrmous  preponderance 
19 


'•'.  i; 


t  - 


■ 


f:    \ 


I ; 


OVR  ALA8KA2? 

such  an  acquisition  would  give  to  the  free 
States  of  the  North  over  the  slave-holding 
oligardhty  of  the  South  in  the  enactment 
of  laws  in  CJongresis.  Canada  was  known 
to  be  mo(re  bitter  in  its  hostility  to  the 
"institution"  than  were  the  most  radical 
of  the  Stateo. 

This  settled  any  further  controversy, 
The  mutterings  of  war  with  Mexico  soon 
diverted  the  miartlal  spirit  of  the  pcopJe 
to  other  fields  of  gore  and  glory. 

In  the  course  of  conversation  uiK>n>  the 
growing  trade  of  the  Pacific,  ex-Secretary 
Wa,''-eT  somew'hat  startled  the  American 
En'  y  by  informing  him  that  the  Emper- 
or Nicholas  I,  to  his  personal  knowledge, 
was  willing  to  cede  his  Russian-American 
possessions  to  the  United  States  if  the 
United  States  would  close  up  its  Pacific 
Coast  iwissessions  to  54  degrees  40  min- 
utes. 

A  person  of  the  authority  of  Mr.  Walk- 
er, having  been  a  member  of  the  official 
family  of  the  President,  to  whom  the 
overturea  were  made,  gave  the  statement 
full  credence  in  the  mind  of  the  American 
diplomat,  and  added  an  impetus  to  the 
efforts  which  followed. 

The  ex-Secretary  conceded  the  reci- 
procal feeling  in  the  United  States  and  the 
possibility  of  an  alliance  with  Russia, 
which  wcild  have  driven  out  the  com- 
merce of  England  and  made  th«  North 
Pacific  an  American  Lake. 

He  admitted  that  the  slave-holding  in- 
terest in  its  fear  of  such  a  vast  acquisi- 
tion of  free  soil,  surrendered  the  welfai^ 
of  the  nation  and  not  onily  thwarted  Rus- 
sia in  her  splendid  Eastern  policy,  but  let 
England  into  the  ti-ade  of  a  great  ocean. 

The  spirit  ot  war  having  closed  its  wings 
fofr  the  time  being,  the  vast  possessions  on 
the  western  Shiores  of  the  North  Pacific 
once  more  became  a  subject  of  diplomatic 
consideraition  between  the  Empire  and 
the  Republic, 

During  the  administration  of  Jaanea 
Buchauani,  of  Pennsylvania,  the  Russian 
Government  went  so  far  as  to  take  the 
initiative  by  sounding  Lewis  Cass,  then 
Secretary  of  State  at  Wa8hin(gton,through 

80 


WONDERLAND 


William  M.  Gwinn,  a  Senatop  from  CaM- 
fomia,  and  Mr.  J^hn  Appleton,  of  Maine, 
then  Assi8ta»t  Secreitary  of  State,  and  up- 
on the  adveait  of  the  Liacoln  regime, 
Ameiican  Envoy  at  St.  Petereburjr. 

After  several  in'terviews  withi  M.  de 
Stoeckl  at  Washington,  in  December, 
1859,  a  price  wais  suggested  at  $5,000,000. 

In  1860  Prince  Gortchakoflf  informed 
Jeremiah  S.  Black,  of  Pennsylvania,  then 
Secretary  of  State,  in  a  dispatch,  that  the 
oflfer  was  not  what  might  have  been  ex- 
pected. The  Presidential  elections  of  that 
year,  the  secession  of  the  slave  States  and 
the  War  of  the  Rebellion,  put  an  estoppel 
upon  further  negotiation*;  at  that  time. 

The  importance  of  an  European  elec- 
tric telegraph,  independent  of  English  con- 
trol, once  more  revived  the  subject  of 
American  ownership  of  the  Rusfrian  pos- 
sessions on  the  Western  Hemisphere. 

It  transpired  ais  a  fartunate  cotncidenoe 
when  the  final  agitation  of  possession  be- 
gan in  February,  1866,  that  the  obarter  of 
the  Russian  company  would  expire  the  fol- 
lowing June. 

As  a  complication,  which  threatened  to 
involve  the  negotiations  in  a  controversy 
with  Great  Britain,  the  Russian  company 
had  practically  under  let  to  the  Bngli«h 
Hudson  Bay  Company  all  its  franchises' 
on  the  main  land  from  54  degrees  40  min- 
utes to  Mount  St.  Elias. 

The  Russian  Gover  iment  was  not  fav- 
orable to  renewing  the  charter  to  the 
British  Hudson  Bay  Company,  but  was 
willing  to  do  so  to  an  Amfrionn  comp''nv. 
such  company  to  pay  to  the  Russian  Gov- 
ernment 5  per  cent,  of  its  groa^  proceeds. 

The  American  Envoy  at  St.  PeterabiiTg 
advised  the  American  Secretary  of  State, 
on  February  Ist,  1867,  of  the  efforts  of 
the  Russian  company  to  secure  a  renewal 
for  25  or  30  years  for  the  purpose  of  sub- 
letting to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  al- 
ready enjoying  the  monopoly  of  the  Brit- 
ish nossessions  in  the  vast  region  around 
Hudson  Bay. 

In  order  to  meet  this  critical  pass  of  af- 
fairs Mr.  Seward  expedited  his  negotia- 
tions so  as  to  head  off  so  untoward  a  culmi- 

81 


IPI^ 


OUR  ALASKAN 


'% 


f  f 


m) 

llf 

'^^ 

:  i 

\ 

\\ 

1 

u 

( 

natioQ  of  his  thfus  far  eacceesfol  efiForts. 
In  aioticipiaition,  however,  of  this  con- 
tlngenicy  tlie  American  Secretary,  after 
several  ioformail  conferences,  conivinced 
the  Russian  Emvoy  of  the  importaflice  of 
a  personal  visit,  wthieh  was  made,  as  we 
haive  seen>  to  St.  Petersburg. 

By  a  prompt  and  timely  interview  of 
Oopnelius  Cole,  then  a  Senator  from  Cali- 
fornia., one  of  the  promoters  of  the  Ameri- 
can company,  with  the  Russian  Envoy  de 
Stoeckl,  and  a  siubsequemt  conference  with 
the  Americoini  Secretary  of  State,  the 
coiwMter  movement  began.  The  Califor- 
nia Senator  wa«  a  man  of  tall  and  com- 
manding figuire^  with  a  fine  address,  court- 
ly methods  and  a  sharp  eye  to  business 
and  diplomacy.  He  speedUy  won  Qie  in- 
terest and  favor  of  the  Russian  Envoy. 
The  American  Secretary  went  so  far  as 
to  inistruct  the  American  Envoy  at  St. 
Petersburg  to  lay  the  subject  of  the  Rus- 
sian company  and  the  adverse  connivance 
with  the  Hudson  Bay  managers  at  London 
before  the  Rxussian  Government. 

Through'  the  success  of  a  sharewdly  mvi- 
nipulated  intrigue  the  Rusirian  authori- 
ties privateliy  turned  over  the  privileges 
sub-let  by  the  Russian-American  com- 
pany to  the  English  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany to  American  hands.  The  ostensible 
reason  for  thia  clever  move  waa  to  have 
the  natives  of  that  wild  region  friendly  to 
the  American  interests  in  the  exploration 
and  consti'uction  of  the  proposed  line  of 
telegraph,  and  to  have  thie  line  in  Ameri- 
can hands  in  event  of  war  between  Rus- 
sia or  the  United  States  and  Great  Bri- 
tain. 

The  English  intriguers,  who  worked 
wonders  in  1844,  but  utterly  failed  in 
1867,  made  vigorous  attempts  to  baulk 
or  frustrate  the  consummation  of  the 
treaty. 

They  also  set  adrift  a  court  intrigue  at 
St.  Petersburg  allegjng  the  oppoeition  of 
every  Rus«)ian  sovertign  from  Ruric, 
Duke  of  Kief,  down  to  Alexander  II, 
Emperor  of  all  the  RustMas,  to  the  ces- 
sion of  territory  to  a  foreign  State.  The 
British,  influence  with  some  Mitire  also 


*-  .'.wwimMiii 


1 


il  effoits. 
hia  coD- 
iry,  after 
conivinced 
rtamce  of 
ie,  as  we 

•view  of 
roan  Cali- 
le  Ameri- 
Envoy  de 
ence  with 
Jtate,  the 
CaJifor- 
and  com- 
as, court- 
business 
)n  iite  in- 
n  Envoy. 
so  far  a« 
y  at  St. 
the  RiiK- 
annivance 
it  Loadon 

wdly  ma- 
authori- 
privilegos 
ican  com- 
iay  Oom- 
ostensihle 
s  to  have 
riendly  to 
q>loration 
>d  line  of 
in  Ameri- 
ireen  Rus- 
Ireajt  Bri- 

worked 

failed  in 

to  baulk 

a  of    the 

itrijTue  at 
oeition  of 
I  Rurlc, 
ander  II, 
the  ces- 
ite.  The 
itire  also 


WONDERLAND 

brought  up  the  nominal  sum,  received  for 
the  vast  and  valuable  region.  They  were 
met  with  the  Russian  reply:  "We  know 
we  have  sold  too  cheaply,  but  it  ia  all  in 
the  family." 

The  American  Envoy,  Mr.  CJay,  re- 
flected the  motives  of  the  Emperor  and 
his  counsellor®  when  he  said:  The  Rus- 
sians wanted  us  as  near  their  eastern 
possessions  as  possible.  They  regard  us 
as  perpetual  friends.  In  the  race  of 
empire  on  the  Pacific,  in  the  peaceful  pur- 
suit of  Ai  erican  and  Russian  interests 
they  expec  to  ultimajtely  expel  from  the 
Pacific  all  nations  to  be  feared." 

The  culmination  of  this  intemaitional 
courtship,  covering  a  period  of  nearly  a 
century,  in  the  cession  of  an  imperial  do- 
main in  supreme  right  and  area,  to  the 
sovereignty  of  the  American  Republic 
began  an  era  cf  American  destiny  fore- 
shadowed years  ago  in  the  gorgeous 
palace  of  the  Czars.  In  the  recent  dis- 
covery of  auriferous  and  exploitation  of 
vegetable  and  marine  wealth  there  is  seen 
abead  a  marvelous  realization. 

The  masterly  manner  in  wUch  the  ne- 
gotiations were  conceived,  continued  and 
completed,when  wo  reflect  upon  thiem  after 
the  whole  Amierioan  people  and  the  whole 
world  have  had  an  opportunity  to  form  a 
cold  and  caioulating  judgment,  is  best 
characterized  when  we  hold  before  the 
scenes  we  have  depicted  of  thirty  years 
ago,  the  searcliing  mirror  of  the  present. 

TTiere  we  must  see  in  the  somewhat 
eagle-like  physiognomy  en  passant  of  a 
thoroughbred  American  eagle  too,  the 
image  of  one  of  the  beet  types  of  an 
American  sCatesman  and  diplomat. 

The  marvelous  secrecy  mlaintained  of 
the  details  of  the  negotiations  pending 
their  accomplishment  between  the  prin- 
cipals, William  H.  Seward  and  Edouard 
de  Stoeckl,  standis  out  in  refreshing  con- 
trast to  methods  we  have  sometimes  had 
revealed  in  dealing  with  international 
questions  where  secrecy  is  gold  and  glory, 
and  loquacity  dross  and  disapiwiintment. 
We  also  see  in  our  romance  the  connected 
links  of  international  friendsliip  and  co- 
23 


i;i 


OVR  ALABEAU 


liM 


It 


i 


,-'' 


operation  manifested  by  th«  Russian 
rukais  and  Groremmeiut  toward  the  Amer- 
ican people  and  their  institutioiifl  from  the 
very  be^nning  of  their  assertion  of  the 
principle  "taxation  without  representation 
it  is  tyranny,"  and  the  conisuimimation  of 
their  efforts  to  throw  off  allegiance  to  a 
bigoted  King  and  laioistry.  We  have  seen 
this  traditional  policy  of  the  friendship 
of  Russia  for  the  American  Republic  re- 
newed and  strengthened  at  every  crisis  in 
American  external  affairs. 

With  siuch  repeated  obligations  to  tho 
friendship  of  Russia,  it  must  be  conceded 
that  no  oonsiderationa  of  a  meddleso«ie 
sentimentaliism  can  or  should  sbake  any 
loyal  Amerioao  in  thouglhts  of  gratitude 
and  reciprocation.  We  find  EVancis 
Dana  in  1780,  three  years  before  the  final 
submission  of  King  G-eorge  III  and  his 
mindisterial  satelites.  to  the  stem  exigen- 
cies of  defeat  at  the  gorgeous  court  of 
Catherine  II.  This  most  remarkable  Em- 
press, of  a  masterful  mind  In  civil  affairs, 
diplomacy  and  war,  welcomed  with  almost 
affeotioniate  consaderation  the  plenipoten- 
tiary of  a  people  then  still  struggling  for 
liberty  and  indei)endenoe. 

The  kind  offices  of  this  mighty  Empress 
coerced  the  stupid  King  to  negotiate  a 
peace  which  had  been  won  by  arms  from 
Lexington  to  Yorktown. 

And  80  has  it  been,  friendship,  good 
will,  co-operation,  defiance  of  the  "con- 
cert" of  nations,  through  the  subsequent 
reigns  of  her  sen  Paul;  of  his  son,  Alex- 
ander I;  of  hiis  brother.  Nicholas  I;  of  his 
son,  Alexander  II;  of  his  son,  Alexander 
III,  and  of  his  brilliant  son,  the  young 
Czar  Nicholas  II,  wh»>  now  redgns  oveip 
aU  the  Russdas. 


84 


iiil 


ttimm 


Russian 
be  Amer- 
from  the 
*n  of  the 
sentation 
oation  of 
inoe  to  a 
liaveeeen 
riendship 
[>ublic  re- 
r  crisis  in 

IS   to    tllP 

conceded 
^ddlesome 
hake  any 
grajtitude 

B^ancifi 
>  the  final 
[  and  his 
u  exig«n- 

court  of 
table  Em- 
n\  affairs, 
ith  almost 
lenipoten- 
^gldng  for 

■  Bmpreea 
?gotiate  a 
inns  from 

ihip,  good 
the  "con- 
ubsequent 
30Q,  Alex- 
s  I;  of  his 
A-lexander 
the  young 
Hgns  over 


"i 


i  > 


?>i' 


'I 
-  j 


>     1 1 


DeB.  Randolph  KEnr. 


\  i 


'■W4 

■I. 


rif^ 


WONDERLAND 


\ 

\ 


■^•^, 


THIRTY  YEIIRS  AFTER 


,t  *  . 


ni 


OVR  ALASKAN 


*     I 


1 

)  • 

1 '« 

u     it 


ff     ! 


i  I 


;ii 


LETTER  NUMBER  II. 


An  Alaskan  Prophesy  Becomes  a 
Realization  of  Statecraft. 


A  Three-Cornered  Intrigue  in  the 

Capitals  of  Three  Nations 

Frustrated. 


Colonization  Awaits  the  Magic  Wand  of 
Gold— Coarse  of  Empire  in  the  Ameri- 
can Occident  -The  Balance  Sheet 
of  Alaskan    Trade   and 
Commerce. 


Retiring   from   tbe  Cares   of  Office    Mr. 
S«w»rd  Vlslta  and  Talka  to  His  Fel- 
low Clttaens  of  Alaska— What  He 
Told  the  ^neen's  Smbjects 
at  Victoria. 


It  borders  upon  the  grotesque  to  recall  to 
mind  Thirty  Years  After,  the  punctured 
sensibilities  and  prophetic  utterances  of 
the  statesman,  who  secured  to  the  do- 
main of  the  Republic,  through  the  peace- 
ful methods  of  diplomacy,  a  vast  region 
teeming  with  unexploited  wealth  and 
added  another  stride  to  the  march  of 
American  destiny. 

It  doea  not  seem  credible  as  the  magni- 
tude of  the  possibilities  of  that  same  re- 
26 


l! 


WONDERLAND 


land 


lomes  a 
aft. 

5  in  the 
ons 


Wand  of 
I  Amepi- 
Sheet 


Cyffice    Mr. 
Hl>  Fel- 
tiat  He 


to  recall  to 

punctured 

terances  of 

to  tlie  do- 

i^ie  peaoe- 

vast  region 

wealth  and 

march  of 

the  magni- 
Ett  same  re- 


gion become  rerealed  year  by  year,  that 
the  statesman  who  achieved  such  a 
triumph  ol"  diplomacy  and  by  a  stroke  of 
the  pen  cemented  a  long,  lasting  and  oft 
demonstrated  friendship  with  the  fore- 
most power  on  the  globe,  found  himself 
forced  to  call  for  friendljf  advocacy  in 
justification  then  of  what  is  now  conceded 
to  have  been  one  of  the  master  strokes  of 
American  stKitecrnft. 

"Write  it  up.  Write  it  up,"  the  Secre- 
tary vehemently  exclaimed  to  the  writer 
when  the  opponents  £d  the  appropriation 
necessary  to  the  closing  of  the  terms  of 
the  treaty  seemed  to  be  gaining  momen- 
tum. "Now  is  the  time  for  the  cham- 
pions of  American  destiny  to  step  for- 
ward. Show  them  the  power  of  the 
press." 

The  "them's"  were  the  men  in  public 
and  potential  private  station  whvj  were 
trying  to  release  "the  rabbit"  now  that 
it  had  "been  caught,"  and  were  opposed 
to  "cooking  it"  by  the  appropriation  of 
the  $7,200,000  stipulated  in  the  treaty. 
These  were  the  figures  of  speech  which 
the  Secretary  appplied  to  the  unexpected 
raid  which  had  risen  up  in  an  unlooked 
for  quarter  to  frustrate  the  consumma- 
tion of  the  concluded  cession. 

Mr.  Seward  attributed  all  (he  difficul- 
ties and  ob*>tructions  which  had  been 
thrown  in  his  way  in  Congress  to  the 
American  "tools"  of  intrigues  fomented 
in  London. 

"Those  English,"  said  he,  upon  one  oc 
casion,  "can  never  be  friends  of  America, 
and  our  people  will  make  a  mistake  if 
they  ever  trust  them.  We  have  too 
many  instances  recorded  in  our  interna- 
tional experiences  with  other  nations  not 
to  feel  assured  of  that.  American  des- 
tiny is  so  swift  in  peaceful  expansion  that 
lasting  friendship  i«  impvissible.  For  my 
part  I  would  rather  bend  my  faith 
toward  our  great  and  good  friend,  the 
Emperor  of  all  the  Russias,  than  in  the 
Queen's  councillors  and  the  British  peo- 
ple." 

The  Secretary     putting  his  foot  down 
and  his  hand  most  emphatically  ai>on  the 
27 


Ti 


wmtmm 


i 


'I 


'^' 


OUR  ALASKAN 

richly  inlaid  table  near  him  simultaneous- 
ly observed:  "Now,  mark  you  that!  Yon 
are  young  and  will  find  it  bo  in  your  day 
as  the  interests  of  your  country  become 
more  widely  expanded  and  world  wide, 
and  jealousy  becomes  stronger  on  the 
other  side." 

The  voluminous  optimistic  literature  of 
the  day  brought  to  the  support  of  tho  ces- 
•ion  a  degree  of  information  which,  af- 
ter a  short,  sharp  and  decisive  struggle, 
brushed  away  the  pessimistic  "Tories," 
as  the  Secretiary  was  wont  to  designate 
the  American  champions  of  the  Anglo- 
American  lobby  which,  besieged  Con- 
gress. 

The  opposition,  as  Mr,  Seward  would 
console  himself,  was  no  worse  and  from 
the  same  cause,  the  commercial  jealousy 
of  England,  than  was  experienced  dur- 
ing the  Louisiana  purchase  in  1803. 

At  the  time  of  the  Russian  cession, 
1867,  there  was  a  party  of  "ins-and-outa" 
at  St.  Petersburg,  as  well  as  in  London 
and  Washington.  In  these  three  great 
capita'Ia  the  Secretary  was  forced  to  com- 
bat a  powerful  element  determined  by 
every  means,  fair  or  fonl,  to  diaoredit  the 
American  administration.  The  turmoils 
incident  to  President  Johnson's"  political 
projects  were  then  at  their  climax  and 
served  to  give  the  American  alli<^  of  the 
opposition  a  pretext  for  their  activity. 

In  St.  Petersburg  there  was  a  strong 
influence  among  the  reactionary  nobility 
which  opposed  any  oontracdon  of  the 
bounds  of  the  Empire,  and  was  antagon- 
istic as  far  as  it  dared  to  be,  to  the  Em- 
peror for  hiis  liberal  treatment  of  the  serfs 
and  for  other  marks  of  progressive  spirit. 

In  London  the  pwfessional  growlers 
saw  in  the  future  a  mighty  rival  in  the 
trade  of  the  Pacific. 

With  the  same  inflexible  will  the  Secre- 
tary, by  the  exercise  of  a  little  political 
finesse,  carried  the  day  in  the  halLs  of 
Congress  as  he  had  done  in  the  cabinet  of 
diplomacy. 

The  remaining  formalities  of  acquisi- 
tion were  promptly  complied  with  by  the 
proclamation  of  the  treaty  by  Andrew 
28 


WONDERLAND 


Jolinson,  President  of  the  United  States, 
on  the  20th  of  June,  1867. 

Thr  policy  of  th»  Russian-Amerioan 
Company,  under  ita  wholesale  chartert'd 
franchises  from  St.  Petersburjf,  was  the 
exclusion  of  the  vast  region  under  its  pro- 
tection from  every  species  of  enterprise 
except  the  fieheries  and  pursuit  of  the 
fur'bearing  animate  in  the  sea  and  on 
the   laod. 

The  authorities  at  St.  Petersburg  w«re 
on  this  aocouot  aside  from  the  interna- 
tional queetiv/ns  involTed  even  more  ready 
to  tnanafer  the  territory  to  the  United 
States,  whose  people  had  already  shown 
themselves  to  be  the  most  aggressive 
competitors  for  the  commefrcial  and  manu- 
facturing supremacy  of  the  world. 

The  Russian  company  repelled  every 
attempt  to  feWi  the  forests  and  thus  '^n- 
tract  the  haunts  of  the  fur-beaxing  ani- 
mals native  to  the  region. 

The  policy  of  the  Russian  govemmentt 
was  more  concerned  in  promoting  the  col- 
ooiEatioin  of  a  iwpulation  upon  the  weert- 
em  shores  of  the  Paclfle,  which  migbt 
in  the  future  contribute  t«  the  restriction 
of  BritLahi  aggression  in  that  section  of 
the  globe. 

The  cession  of  the  territory  to  the 
United  States  was  expected  to  fulfil  an 
American  lines  these  expectations. 

As  early  as  April  21st,  1867, 
just  three  weeks  after  the  treaty 
of  cession  to  the  United  States 
was  concluded,  a  meeting  of  citi- 
zens was  held  in  Phi/'odelphla,  out  of 
which  sprung  an  association  for  tlie  civ- 
ilization of  Russian  America  and  asking 
the  co-operation  of  the  government.  Sim- 
ilar movements  were  inaugurated  in  New 
York  and  Boston. 

The  lease  of  the  seal  fis'heries  and  the 
inves'tment  of  capital  in  the  catch,  of  cod- 
fish, whaling,  canning  and  salting  of 
salmon  introduced  a  spirit  of  enterprise 
in  that  remote  possession  which  only  re- 
quired the  magic  wand  of  gold  to  give 
it  impetus  wliich  wouJd  make  Alaska 
one  of  the  finest  poesessions  of  the 
Union. 

To  have  said  fifty  years  ago  tha/t  thie 
89 


OVR  ALASKAN 


eastern  littonJ'  c  '  the  Pacific  Ocean  from 
San  Diego  to  C-ipe  Flattery  would  con- 
tribute three  spL^did  common  wealths  to 
the  American  Urion  world  have  been 
ti'eatt  •!  as  ao  idle  romance. 

The  State  of  California,  second  only  to 
Texas  in  area,  admitted  to  the  Union  in 
1850,  seven  years  ago  (1890),  with  a  pop- 
ulation of  1,204,000  ranked  twenty-third 
in  the  list  of  States  of  the  Federal  com- 
pact. Ore^n,  admitted  in  1859,  larger 
than  New  York  and  Pennsyirania  com- 
bined in  area,  with  a  popu^iation  of  313,- 
000,  ranked  thirty-eighth.  In  thie  same 
year,  Washinigton,  almost  as  large  as 
Ohio  and  Indiana,  had  a  population  of 
349,000, 

The  tide  of  emigration,  whicfh  set  in 
with  such,  vigorous  diraenisiona  upon  the 
discovery  of  gold  in  Oalifomia  in  1848, 
will  find  history  repeating  itself  in  1898. 
The  pioneers  of  1897  now  flocking  to 
Alaska  and  adjacent  territory  are  opening 
the  way  to  a  realization. 

The  march  of  empire  on  the  Western 
Hemisi>here  has  been  led  by  the  pursuit 
of  the  precious  metal. 

The  earliest  ideas  of  the  navigators,  po- 
tentates and  peoples  of  Europe  pointed 
to  the  wealth  of  Cathay  and  Cipangi  . 
The  search  for  a  isihorter  passage  to  those 
realms  of  fabulous  wealth  became  the 
stimulating  agent  in  the  promotion  of 
geograrvhiaal  science.  The  Spaniards  wlho 
followed  In  the  wake  of  Columbus,  the 
ciavaliers  who  settled  at  Jamestown,  the 
pioneers  who  opened  the  pathways  of  the 
plains  forced  the  defii'ies  of  the  Rockies 
and  the  Nevadaui  and  debouched  upon 
the  blue  ocean  of  the  American  ooddent 
did  in  their  epoch  of  racial'  distrib-  Jon 
what  the  talismanic  cry  of  gold  will  again 
do  for  Alaska. 

The  organization  of  the  ceded  regioo 
in  1884,  but  seventeen  years  after  thie 
treaty,  under  a  territorial  form  of  gov- 
ernment, was  in  itself  a  signifioant  as- 
surance of  a  development  more  progres- 
p've  and  enduring  thaii  had  been  achieved 
during  the  century  and  quarter  whioh 
elapsed  froKi  the  time  that  Vitus  Bering 
anchored  under  the  eihadow  of  the  t>w- 

ao 


WONDERLAND 


oon- 

is  to 
>een 


t-w- 


ering  peaks  of  St.  Enas  down  to  the  di- 

SJomatic    achievement    of    William     H. 
eward  in  the  capital'  of  a  nation  then 
unboni. 

The  march  of  American  empire  wiiich 
from  the  beginning  of  the  republic  hod 
taken  its  way  westward,  diverted  in  ita 
triumphiant,  onward  march  by  the  waters 
of  the  Pacific  has  nowi  fairly  turned 
northward  toward  the  polar  axia  of  the 
earth  itself. 

The  dream  of  the  Czara  from  Nicholas 
I  to  Alexanei*  II  of  a  friendly  nation  in  the 
Western  Hemisphere  with  thlemselveg  in 
power  on  the  opposite  shores  of  the  same 
ocean,  now  gives  assurance  of  certain 
realization, 

A  new  factor  of  adverse  interest,  how- 
ever, in  this  commercial  supremacy  con- 
fronits  the  Empire  of  the  North  in  thfe 
remmiisance  of  Oriental  power  fore- 
shadowed iu  th(>  progressive  march  in 
peace  and  war  of  the  Imperial  archipelaigo 
under  the  b'vay  of  the  Mikado. 

In  the  meamtime  American  civilization, 
like  the  mp.riner's  eompaiss,  will  point  to 
the  pole  northward  until  Mifw  Colum- 
bia and  'he  Russian  Bear  extend  their 
felicitntionis  across  the  straits,  which  wed 
the  waters  of  the  Pacific  with  those  of  the 
Arctic  ocean. 

The  statesman-like  forecast  of  manifest 
destiny  in  the  distant  North,  which  had 
been  treated  at  tbe  time  with  so  much 
ribald  comment  and  criticism,  has  now 
been  amply  vindicated. 

In  1892,  which  is  the  latest  compiled  ex- 
hibit cf  imi/Oi'ts  and  exports  of  Alaskan 
I.iiIK,rtn  footed  up  the  handsome  total  of 
$2,164,000,  a*  the  same  time  the  exports 
from  the  territory  reached  the  still  more 
handsome  sum  of  $7,759,000. 

An  amount  of  over  five  and  one-half 
million  dollars  five  years  ago  to  the  credit 
of  a  region  for  which  but  a  luarter  of  a 
century  before  $7,200,000  were  paid  in 
bulk. 

It  may  be  interesting  to  have  an  item- 
ized exhibit  of  this  marvelous  progress  on 
the  standau'ds  of  trade.  This  would  run 
ais  follows:  789,294  cases  of  canned 
saimon,  which  realized  $3,157,000;  186,- 
31 


\ 


OUR  ALA8KAN 


V  I 

I 


;> 


¥. 


250  pounds  of  whalebone,  a<;  >'!. '•^:  '''-?■, 

fold  bullion,  $707,000;  sold  and  .  .,-,-,  ure, 
400,000;  seal  skins,  $755,000;  furs.,  4)439,- 
000;  not  to  speak  of  furs,  &c.,  from 
Southeastern  Alaska,  $357,000:  besides 
7,500  tona  of  codfish,  valued  at  $351,000; 
9,000  barrels  of  salted  salmon,  TeeeHzing 
$81,000;  1,000  pounds  of  ivory,  $5,000; 
12,228  banrels  of  whale  oil.  $103,000,  and 
other  oil  and  ."ruamo,  $114,000. 

This,  in  1867,  was  the  land  of  glaciere, 
eternicl  fogs,  blinding  snows,  intense  cold, 
tundiia,  volcanoes  and  every  other  con- 
ceivable offspring  of  Dame  Nature,  hos- 
tile to  the  hiabitaticn  and  activities  of 
man,  according  to  some  nervspapers. 

The  87  trading  houses,  located  in  60 
towns  and  y'lTages  along  the  coast  and 
rivers,  wild,  .  ?  another  decade  or  two. 
yield  the  San  Franeiscos  the  Portlands 
and  the  Seattles  of  sub-Arctic  States  of 
the  American  Union  competing  for  fht- 
mastery  of  the  trade  and  commerce  of  the 
Pacific. 

To  the  eniormoi"js  output  of  fish,  furs, 
whalebone,  ivory,  oils,  gold  and  silver  bul- 
lion, and  ores,  and  lumber  with  the  in- 
crease of  a  (aind  population  will  be  added 
the  product®  of  the  gardens  lamd  the 
fields. 

Tte  proximity  of  the  Japan  stream  whu 
sweeps  easitwaird  along  the  Aleutian 
chain  and  bends  southward  in  the  bigrht 
under  !.u,o  mighty  mass  of  St.  Eliais, 
sweeps  by  the  coaist  of  Alaska,  BriliK  . 
Oohiimbia,  Washinigiton,  Oregon  and  C-  !- 
fornin,  where  it  swirls  westward,  envel(u) 
ing  Hawaii  in  itf  warming  waters,  mak- 
inig  all  these  vaist  regions  suited  to  the 
hwibitaitian  of  a  large  population  employed 
in  the  arts  and  ini(l'i5«tr>?  of  civilized  life. 

Taking  t'e  ^^n.cc  lint-  >f  Alaska,  54  de- 
grees, 40  mil)  «ce«  noir^h  !  itude,  we  find 
north  of  tiiat  ;*araliei  in  -iurope  the  north- 
ern portions  of  Ireland,  the  great  ship- 
yards of  the  Clyde,  the  textile  woi'ks  of 
Paisley  and  in^'uslTios  of  GMasgow  and 
Edinburg,  besiaes  almost  the  whole  of 
Scotlamd  and  Denmark,  all  of  Norway  and 
Sweden  and  one-half  of  RiiSisia. 

The  capital  of  the  Territory,  Sitka,  is  57 

32 


i 


WONDERLAND 

degrees,  or  three  degrees  over  200  statute 
miles  soufh  of  St.  Petersbm-g,  the  capital 
of  the  Russian  Enipire,  and  Stockholm,  of 
Sweden,  and  but  one  degree  north  of  Oop- 
enihagen,  the  capital  of  Denmark.  The 
city  of  St.  Petersburg  lies  15  degrees,  or 
nearly  1,000  statute  miles,  areticvvard  of 
tlie  south*M"n  parallel  of  Alaska. 

The  glaciers  so  much  drawn  in  the 
pen  pictures  of  Alaska  then  and  now  are 
fcmnd  under  similar  conditiona  of  alti- 
tude, if  not  of  latitude,  in  the  heart  of 
Europe. 

The  coast  of  the  Baltic  and  of  the 
North  Seas  teem  with  population  and 
wealth  in  latitudes  far  north  of  the 
southern  line  of  demarcatio»  of  Alaska. 

On  the  12th  day  of  August.  1869,  but 
fire  months  after  WirSara  H.  Seward 
had  laid  aside  the  cares  of  state,  we  find 
him  addressing  "citizens  of  Alaska"  as 
"Fellow-citizens  of  the  United  Slates," 
in  Sitka,  the  very  capital  of  the  posses- 
sion which  he  had  won  over  from  the 
Empire  of  Russia. 

He  had  enjoyed  a  triumphal  progress 
through  the  Pacific  States  and  the  newly 
acquired  possessions  of  his  country,  and 
was  received  with  manifest  cordiality  by 
the  subjects  of  Queen  Victoria  in  the 
colonial  dex)endency  of  British  Columbia. 

In  his  speeches  at  Sitka,  Victoria  and 
Salem  he  foretold  with  prophetic  vision 
the  future  of  the  vast  region  which 
Btretcbes  from  the  confines  of  Mexico  to 
the  topmost  limits  of  the  American  hem- 
isphere impinging  on  the  Arctic  Ocean, 

With  an  instinctive  realization  of  op- 
portunity his  ideal  of  American  destiny 
rose  to  the  gradeur  of  heroism  when  ex- 
claiming to  his  hearers  under  the  flaunt- 
ing folds  of  the  emblem  of  British  do- 
minion at  Victoria,  "British  Columbia 
must  be  governed  in  conformity  with  so- 
ciety upon  the  American  continent.  If 
the  Government  comes  in  conflict  with 
the  interesits  of  the  United  States  we  can 
easily  see  what  will  happen." 

As  we  review  the  sentiment  and  phras- 
ing of  these  speechow  among  the  very  peo- 
33 


OVR  ALASKAN 


I! 


A    ; 


m 


pie  whjose  destiny  waa  so  intimately  «fe- 
sociated  with  the  future  not  only  of  their 
own  sihores,  but  of  the  vast  Alaskan 
sea  coast,  and  inland  aiea,  they  read  like 
prophesy. 

It  is  to  be  said  of  Mr.  Seward  that 
his  public  career  as  a  whole  had  been  a 
sequence  of  logioaJi  deductions  from  in- 
structive and  comprehensive  Americanr 
ism. 

He  never  failted  to  characterize,  as  did 
Summer,  the  solution  of  the  boundary 
quco*ion  wbich  gave  Vancouver  and  the 
other  is:land»  and.  coast  from  49  degrees 
to  54-40  to  Great  Britain  as  the  baselst 
act  of  any  administration'  in  Amerioan 
history. 

In  a  conversart;ion  with  Mr.  Seward, 
then  ex-Secretary  of  State,  in  China 
in  186&-70,  he  oould  not  express  himself 
on  the  bungling  course  of  the  Depart- 
ment of  State  in  that  transaction  with  ad^ 
equate  emphasis. 

"To  yield  anything  on  that  coast  to 
England  was  not  only  absolute  blindness 
to  the  future  but  little  ']<e8a  than  treason 
to  American  destiny.  There  would  have 
been  nio  fighting.  England  would  have 
blustei'ed  awhile.  Her  bark  is  worse 
than  her  bite.  Now  we  may  have  to 
fight  to  get  it  back.  When  the  time 
comes  how  long  will  our  Americama  in 
that  region  put  up  with  any  nioneense 
fromi  England?" 

"I  shall  Binswer  that.  Just  about  aa 
long  as  Americans  put  up  with  Mexico 
interfering  with  Amerioan  ideas  in  the 
Republic  of  Texas.  Mark  it.  The  issue 
wil!  come.  It  is  bound,  to  come,  sooner 
or  later.  I  may  not  see  it,  but  you  may. 
It  is  manifest  del&tiny  that  the  Pacific 
shores  of  the  Western  Hemisphere,  from 
the  Gulf  of  California  to  the  North  Po:ie 
shall  be  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
United  States.  And  it  will  be  the  domi- 
naaice  of  American  institutions  and  senti- 
menlt  which  will  do  it.  I  believe  i>eace- 
fully.  As  for  taking  it,  it  is.  even  now 
more  possible  for  the  American  people 
on  the  Pacific,  backed  by  the  power  and 
wealth  at  Washinploa,  than  It  was  for 
84 


, 


'i 


WONDEBLAlfD 

tlie  thirteen  colonies  with  their  itinerary 
CJongress,  ill-armed,  llli-clad/  and  ill-fed 
oonitinienta:s  and  continental  shinplasterg 
nearly  a  century  ago  to  wrest  from  Eng- 
land, then  in  the  height  of  her  military 
aggressions,  our  original  domain. 


86 


Ulaslan  Possibilitlesi 


OurtlasbWonderland 


LETTER  NUMBER  IJI. 


8 


\0\ 


The   President    Watching   the 
Course  of  Events. 


The  Star  of  Destiny  Turns  Polar 
ward. 


Secretary  Seward'8  Arctic  Commonwealth 
a  Probability. 

The  Pioneer  Days  of  '4^9  and  the  Growth 
of  Kmplre  Aepeatlng  Itself. 


The  President  and  chiefs  of  the  Execu- 
tive Departments  which  come  in  direct 
touch  with  territorial  affairs  were  early 
in  frequent  conference  upon  the  pros- 
pt'ctive  conditions  and  dim&nds  of  Alaska, 

The  sudden  burst  of  that  sub-Arctic 
and  Arctic  poeaession  into  enticing 
fields  for  human  cupidity  bi-ought 
with  it  problems  of  administration  and 
public  economy  which  had  to  be  promptly 
met.  It  was  the  firm  belief  in  sdmimistra- 
tion  circlies  that  the  sitampede  for 
the  golden  land  of  the  North  had  come 
to  stay.  Its  abatement  on  account  of  in- 
accessibility, it  was  thought,  would  prove 
but  the  temxwrary  gorging  of  the  tide 
wdiich  would  break  forth  again  in  the 
comiing  spring  with  irresistible  eagerness 
and  numibens. 

The  tales  of  hiarfiship  and  even  death, 
coupled  with  the  accounts  of  fabulous 
wealth  acquired  simply  for  the  giathering 

37 


/ 


Ml 


^ti. 


OUR  ALASKAN 

from  the  golden  streams,  only  served  to 
tempt  the  hardihood  endurance  ajid  de- 
fiance of  the  assembling  multitude.  The 
Goverawnenrt  authorities  were  not  influ- 
e<noed  in  their  conisdderation'  of  ways  and 
means  to  meet  the  sudden  emergency 
by  random  accounts  more  or  lea©  accur- 
ate or  exaggerated,  but  had  before  them 
oflSciali  reports  from  authorized  ageJiits 
which  confirmed  in  the  main  the  unofficial 
statements. 

Prom  every  section  of  the  United 
States,  from  South  America,  Europe, 
Australia,  and  even  Asia,  individuals  and 
parties  were  reported  abandoning  their 
vocations:  and  bending  their  steps  towaid 
points  in  proximity  to  the  goMen  land  in 
order  to  be  prepared  to  avail  themselves 
of  the  first  opening  of  the  season  to 
make  a  dash. 

The  President  and  Oongres©,  therefore, 
found  themselves  face  to  face  with  a  con- 
dition for  which  they  mnst  be  ready.  The 
influx  of  a  sudden'  and  large 
emigration  into  the  territory  not 
only  in-  the  search  for  gold 
but  in  established  vocations  which 
must  always  attend  the  aggregation  of 
civilized  man  in  communities,  it  was  ex- 
pected, wouiM  necessitate  action  at  once. 

It  was  therefore  apparent  that  a 
large  share  of  the  attention  of  Congress 
would  be  taken  up  in  meeting  the  require- 
ments of  the  new  situation  in  the  vast 
domain  of  the  republic  north  of  tho  flar 
mous  54-40  line  of  north  latitude. 

The  President,  in  his  annual  message 
to  Congress  dealt  largely  with  this  new 
and  novel  question  of  executive  admin- 
istration and  made  certain  recommenda- 
tions on  the  subject  of  necessary  legisla- 
tion. 

The  neglected  condition  in  which  the 
territory  of  Alaska  was  left  from'  the 
date  of  the  cession  from  Ruissia,  March 
30th,  1867,  down  to  1884,  a  space  of  sev- 
enteen years,  cov-  >ng  a  portion  or  the 
whole  of  the  adm  litrations  of  Johnson, 
Grant,  Hayes,  GanSeld  and  Arthur,  was 
remedied  in  1884  by  the  enactment  by 
Congress  of  a  law  creating  a  district  gov- 
ernment. This  provided  a  governor  and 
38 


t 


WONDERLAND 


district,  court.  The  lawa  of  the  State  of 
Oregon  were  appHetl  to  the  district.  In 
July,  1897,  the  mineral  laws  of  the  Unit- 
ed States;  the  town  site-lawa,  providing 
for  the  incorporation  of  town  sites  and 
acquirement  of  title  thereto  from'  the 
Government  to  the  trustees;  the  law  pro- 
viding for  trade  and  manufactures,  giving 
each  qualified  person  160  acres  of  land 
in  a  square  and  compact  form  were  de- 
clared lapplicable  by  a  decisioB  of  the 
United  States  G>eneral  Liaod  Office  to 
Alaska.  From  the  coal  land  regulations 
and  the  public-l?nd.  laws,  the  territory  of 
AJaska  was  excluded  in  terms  in  those 
laws  themselves. 

The  details  of  administration  under  the 
district  form,  of  government  have  been 
conducted  in  the  Department  of  the  In- 
terior and  executed  on  the  ground  by  a 
governor,  dork  of  the  court  ex-officio, 
secretary  of  Alaska,  surveyor  general, 
register  of  the  land  office,  recoiver  of  the 
public  moneys,  all  located  at  Sitfca. 

There  are  also  resident  commissioners 
at  Sitka,  Wrangle,  Unalaska,  Juneau, 
Kadiak,  Circle  City,  St  Michaels,  Dyea 
and  Unaga. 

The  district  judiciary  under  the  De- 
partment of  Justice  consists  of  a  District 
Judge,  United  State  Attorney  and  assist- 
ant and  United  States  Marshal  resident  at 
Sitka,  but  sitting  atemately  at  Sitka  and 
Wrangel. 

The  military  control  under  the  War 
Department  is  through  the  Military  De- 
partment of  the  Columbia,  with  head- 
quarters at  Vancouver  Barracks,  Wash- 
ington. 

The  vast  region  prior  to  1884  was  under 
the  control  of  the  chartered  stipulations 
of  trading  companies,  the  operations  of  tihe 
steamship  lines  and  divers  enterprising 
business  projects  subject  to  the  general 
laws  of  the  United  States. 

The  peaceful  character  of  the  inhabit- 
ants rendered  the  occupation  of  the  ter- 
ritory by  a  military  force  unnecessary. 

In  a  communication  of  May  20th, 
1867,  fifty  days  after  the  conclusion  of 
the  treaty  of  oeesion,  Major  General 
H.  W.  Holleck,  then  in  command  at  San 

89 


OUR  ALASKAN 


\J 


Francisco,  recommended  to  Secretary  of 
War  Stanton  the  establishment  of  foiu- 
military  postsi  of  one  company  of  in- 
fantry each  at  New  ArAangel,  in  Sitka 
Bay;  Cook's  Inlet,  Kadiak,  and  Uralasfca. 
This  elaborate  scL^me,  however,  waa 
never  car/ied  out,  the  region  being  left 
to  take  its  c^amices  until  neccBgitj'  reQiiived 
a  form  of  gcvernment  to  meet  the  sim- 
ple requirements  then  existing. 

In  >a  report  of  1868,  from  General  Hal- 
leck,  one  year  after  the  cession,  the  popu- 
lation of  Alaska  was  put  down  at  82,- 
400.  To  this  were  added  11,900. 
Thlinket  Indians,  in  a  report  to  the  In- 
dian Commissioner  by  Rev.  Vincent  Ool- 
lyer,  making  in  all  94,300.  In  the  cen- 
sus of  1880  the  population  was  stated  at 
33,426,  and  in  1890,  the  first  in  detail', 
4,298  whites,  23,531  Indians,  2,288  Mon- 
golians,  1,935  mixed-blood,  or  32,052. 

The  impression  prevails  in  Government 
circles  that  the  rush  for  gold  in  the 
Klondike  region  will  spread  into  the  do- 
main of  the  United  States  and  will  de- 
mand a  more  enlarged  .system  of  govern- 
ment. Whether  it  will  require  the  elab- 
orate details  of  a  territorial  form  virhich 
has  answered,  the  necessities  of  all  the 
States  in  their  embryotic  condition  will 
be  determined  by  the  effect  which  the 
Klondike  rush  will  have  upon  the  perma- 
nent occupation  and  settlement  of  the 
regions  on  the  American  side  of  the  line 
and  at  the  various  trading  stations.  The 
number  of  the  latter  in  Alaska  in  1891 
was  eighty-seven,  located  in  sixty  towna 
and  villages,  stretching  from  Portland 
Canal  In  north  latitude  54-40  to 
Point  Bairrow  on  the  slioros  of  the  Arctic 
Ocean  and  from  the  Alaska  Peninsula 
to  Attn,  at  the  Asiaward  end  of  the 
Aleutian  chain  of  islands. 

The  irregular  system  of  transportation 
afforded  by  special  conveyances  on  shore, 
on  the  rivers  and  along  the  coasts  has  in- 
terfered with  complete  or  even  approxi- 
mately accurate  statistical  information, 
buit  trade  in  general  merchandise  as  im- 
ports and  the  varied  articles  of  export, 
has  enormously  expanded  within  the  past 
few  years. 

40 


M 


<U 


I 


1  '^ 

wk 

! 

wt 

1^ 

1  ':; 

i; 

i' 


WOTflDERLAtiD 

The  increase  for  18&7  was  considered 
but  the  begrinning  of  what  may  develop. 
Tlie  monopoly  of  the  Ruesian  comrvany 
which  prohibitedi  amy  systematic  atti  inirt 
to  open  the  resouroea  of  the  land  ai  sea 
to  the  exploitation  and  development  of  an 
enlightened  emigration,  was  to  a  great  ex- 
tent continued  by  the  Americlan  company. 
It  has  only  been  since  the  immense  re- 
sources of  the  region  have  become  known 
and  particularly  the  sudden  road  to 
wealth,  by  the  golden  route,  both  in 
Alaska  and  the  now  famous  Klondike  re- 
gion, thiart:  commercial  enterprise,  traflBc 
and  general  business  have  directed  them- 
selves that  way  for  active  and  profitable 
employment 

The  course  of  empire  which  was  taking 
its  westward  way  by  the  commonplace 
methods  of  natural  expansion  in  1848, 
suddenly  electrified  by  the  talism'anic  cry 
of  gold!  gold!  broke  forth  into  an  irresist- 
ible torrent  toward  the  golden  American 
Occident. 

A  commonwealth  rose  as  if  by  magic 
on  the  distant  shores  of  the  Pacific.  Thus 
impeded  in  its  march  by  the  resistance  of 
a  vast  expanse  of  ocean  the  star  of  em- 
pire changed  its  course  northward  until 
to-day  the  cry  is  poleward  the  course  of 
empire  takes  its  way. 

It  is  now  a  pertinent  question  to  ask: 
Are  we  on  the  verge  of  a  repetition  of  the 
remarkable  exi)eriences  o(f  the  pioneer 
days  of  OaJifomia. 

In  the  course  of  over  three  hundred 
years  from  the  time  of  BernaJ  Diaz  del 
Castillo,  an  officer  under  Cortez,  the  con- 
queror of  Mexico,  who  first  named  Cali- 
fornia (Caliente  Pormalia,  hot  furnace) 
progress  was  almost  infinitesimal  com- 
pared with  the  experiences  of  three  years 
after  the  cry  of  gold  went  forth  from  the 
little  mill  race  of  the  Americanized  Ba- 
denese  German,  John  Augustus  Sutter. 

In  order  to  form  some  idea  of  the  re- 
markable transition  in  less  years  than  you 
can  count  uiwn  the  fingers  of  one  hand,  it 
may  be  in  place  to  say  that  the  Spaniards 
established  th«ir  first  missionary  and  mil- 
itary stations  in  the  region  known  as  Oal- 
41 


'MJ^iggf, 


mmmmmmammmimmmKsrmn' 


iV 


■ri- 


OUR  AT  ASK  AN 

ifornia  in  160S.  They  founded  a  mission 
on  itlie  Bay  of  San  Francisco  in  1776.  In 
1822  the  people  threw  off  the  yoke  of 
Spain  and  secularized  the  government  of 
the  Jesuits.  In  1824  the  country  became 
subject  to  Mexico.  In  1831  the  inhabit- 
ants numbered  ;23,000.  In  1836  Oalifor- 
ni'n.  became  virtually  independent  of  Mex- 
ico. In  1843-6  a  siteady  tide  ef  emigration 
set  in  from  the  United  States  and  occu- 
pied tlie  arable  lands. 

On  May  11th,  1S46  the  Congress  of  the 
United  States  declared  war  with  Mexico. 
The  same  year  the  army  of  the  Unit'Ni 
Slates  occupied  the  territory.  After  an 
unvarying  course  of  victory  as  masters  of 
the  entire  region  California  became  an 
integral  part  of  tlie  Union  under  the 
treaty  Guadaloupe  Hidalgo,  restoring 
peace  with  Mexico,  July  2d,  1848. 

By  a.  remiarkable  codncideuice  in  the 
course  of  events  the  treaty  of  Guadaloupe 
Hidalgo  and  the  discovery  of  gold 
in  California  transpired  in  the  same 
month  of  the  same  year.  Following  in 
the  train  of  peace  l^e  announcement  of 
the  discovery  of  gold  attracted  a  mighty 
torrent  of  emigration  from  every  State 
and  territory  of  the  Union  and  every  part 
of  the  globe. 

These  two  events  fixed  the  manifest 
dewtiny  of  the  AmtJean  Occident.  The 
organization  of  the  region  into  a  terri- 
tory followed  almost  immediately.  In 
1850,  but  two  years  and  seven  months  af- 
ter the  discovery  of  gold,  California  was 
enrolled  as  tlie  eighteenth  State  added  to 
the  original  thirteen,  the  second  in  area 
and  thirtieth  in  population.  In  1860,  af- 
ter a  career  of  ten  years,  it  ranked  twen- 
ty-fifth in  population  in  tlie  list  of  thirty- 
fonr  States,  having  m'ad(>^  the  enormous 
.stride  from  93.000  in  1850,  to  380,000  in- 
habitants in  1860.  The  census  of  1890 
gave  it  1,208,130,  or  twenty-second  in  a 
list  of  forty-four  States.  Under  the  im- 
pulse of  the  discovery  of  gold  as  a  stimu- 
lus to  emigration  and  the  deivelopment  of 
the  marvelous  agricultural,  mineral  and 
forest  wealth  of  the  c^iuntry  with  their  re- 
quirements of  coanmercial,  financial,  mer- 

42 


L 


WONDERLAND 

canitile,  profesBional  and  non-professional 
(mterprise  and  occupation  California 
from  the  foot  of  the  list  oi'  thirty-two 
States,  in  four  decades,  jumped  to  twen- 
tyntwo  in  the  list  of  forty-four  in  popula- 
tion. 

But  the  course  of  empire  aid  not  stop 
here?.  In  its  poleward  way  along  the 
shores  of  the  Pacific  in  less  than  a  single 
decade,  the  spirit  of  colonization  and  en- 
terprise spread  beyond  the  limits  of  the 
golden  mother  State  of  the  American  Oc- 
cident into  the  fertile  valleys  of  theCo- 
luml)ia  and  the  Willamette,  and  in  1859 
added  Oregon  as  the  cwentieirh  State  in 
admiSiion,  the  third  in  size  and  thirty- 
fifth  in  population  in  1890,  witli  its  im- 
mense argricntural  and  commercial  ad- 
vantages, the  wealth  of  its  streams  in  fish 
of  commercial  value.  In  three  decades 
la+er  the  poleward  march  of  empire  readh- 
e.  the  extreme  northwestern  corner  of 
the  national  domain,  bordering  on  the 
present  British  poscsessions  of  Columbia, 
where  lumber,  grazing,  cereals  and  coal, 
and  350,000  inhabitants,  in  1889,  ^dd- 
ed  the  State  of  Washington  the  t  ,en- 
ty-ninth  to  the  "Old  Thirtee?>  "  the 
twelfth  in  area  and  thirty-eighth  i  i  popu- 
lation, Witli  those  fact*  l>efore  us  who 
can  predict  the  future  of  the  vast  posses- 
sions of  the  Republic  which  lie  beyond 
the  intervening  strip  of  British  posses- 
sions, whicli  Charier  Sumner  in  a  great 
si)eech  publicly  declared  a  menace  and  a 
most  ignominious  surrender  of  a  strategic 
territory  by  a  ix)werful  nation. 

The  first  rush  of  adventurers,  followed 
by  t'le  flowing  tide  of  emigration  to  Oali- 
toriia  in  pioneer  days  were  confronted 
bj  the  toil  and  expense  of  immense  dis- 
tances measured  in  miles  by  the  thou- 
sands, \K)th  by  land  and  by  sea,  the  perils 
of  tlie  unrelenting  storms  of  Cape  Horn, 
the  death  breeding  miasnwis  of  tlie 
Isthmus  of  Darien,  and  th(>  toilsome 
stretcher  of  plains,  deserts  and  mountain 
ranges,  iiiH^sted  by  liloodthii-nty  savages, 
a'.l  of  which  nmke  the  modern  facilities 
of  access  to  the  very  gateways  to  tiaa 
43 


.  nt^a&..(iLv--*'ii,Hij:-i 


/  ! 


^'t    i\ 


OUR  ALASKAN 

coveted  golden  deposits  in  Alaska  and  the 
Kondike  almost  child's  play. 

Witb  lines  of  railroads  from  all  points 
on  the  Atlantic  seaboard  and  in  the  inter- 
oceanic  States,  to  the  seaboard  cities  of 
the  Pacific,  and  the  splendid  lines  of 
steamers  from  San  Francisco,  Portland 
and  Seattle  to  points  of  access  to  thp 
mountain  defiles  or  the  Yukon,  renders  the 
means  of  reaching  the  mountain  treasure 
lands  of  the  interior  one  of  comparative, 
ease.  The  remaining  difficulties  of  trans- 
portation will  also  soon  be  overcome  by 
modern  appliances  of  travel. 

The  possibilities  of  Alaska  as  a  political 
division  of  the  Federal  Union  may  be  the 
wonder  of  the  dawn  of  the  twentieth  cen- 
tury. In  area  it  is  more  than  twice  the 
size  of  Texas,  and  in  population  more 
than  bad  Oalifornia  at  the  time  of  the 
discovery  of  gold. 

If  the  prospective  rush  of  gold  hunters 
into  the  Klondike  and  Alaska  and  the 
influx  of  merchants,  artisans  and  laborers 
incident  to  the  wants  of  a  mining  popu- 
lation shouild  bo  realized,  these  sudden  ac- 
cessions to  the  resident  population  en- 
gaged in  tlio  indu'^tries  of  the  sea  and 
shore  may  witness  in  Alaska  the  estab- 
lishmenc  of  a  territorial  form  of  govern- 
ment with  a  legislature  and  other  equip- 
ment fo  •  the  administration  of  executive, 
legislative  and  judicial  functions,  before 
the  close   of  the  Fifty-fifth  Congress, 

The  territory  iself  would  be  capable  in 
the  progress  of  years,  of  contributing  six 
commonwealths  to  the  Federal  Union, 
each  possessing  its  own  distinctive  phy- 
sical characteristics,  products  and  fields 
of  remunerative  industry. 

After  crossing  the  ignominious  break, 
as  Charles  Sumner  characterized  it,  in 
terms  of  the  most  soveeign  contempt,  in 
tlie  continuity  of  present  empire  along  the 
eastern  shores  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  is 
reached  what  is  known  geographically 
as  Sou'theastorn  Alaska. 

The  area  of  this  section,  29,980  square 
milee,  lacking  only  3.000  8(]uare  miles  of 
being  as  large  as  the  State  of  Maine,  com- 
prises the  mainland  from  Portland  Canal 

44 


'If 

i 


I 


in.  54  degrees,  40  minutes,  north  latitude, 
where  Alaska  begins  northward  to 
Mount  St  EliEiS,  including  the  islands  of 
the  Alexander  archipelago.  This  region 
is  coTered  with  forests  of  valuable  woods 
of  commerce,  abounds  in  coal  and  pos- 
sesses unexploited  gold  bearing  quartz 
In  this  section  are  situated  Sitka,  Juneau 
and  Dyea,  two  degrees  in  latitude 
south  of  Christiana,  Norway,  with  151,- 
000,  Stockholm  in  Sweden  with  247,000, 
and  St.  Petersburg,  Russia,  with  1,100,- 
OOOinhabitauts. 

The  fishing  .-nd  canning  int  ^ts  are 
enormous  and  much  of  the  soil  blf>. 

The  Kadiak  division  on  the  nor  ,  14.- 
fllO  square  miles  or  2,500  square  milos 
Larger  than  the  State  of  Maryland,  in- 
cludes the  south  side  of  the  Alaska  Pen- 
insula with  the  Kadiak  group  and  other 
islands.  It  is  mountainous,  rising  to  12,- 
000  feet,  intersected  by  glaciers,  but 
abounds  in  valuable  forests  which  are  also 
the  hauts  of  valuo.ble  fur-bearing  animals. 
Coal  and  gold  have  also  been  found  in 
paying  quantities. 

The  Aleutian  division,  14,610  square 
miles,  as  large  as  Massachusetts, 
Rhode  Island  and  Oonnecticut, 
takes  in  the  western  side  of  the 
Alaska  Peninsula,  aud  with  the 
chain  of  islands,  including  the  Probilof 
group,  the  breeding  place  and  i-esort  of 
the  valuable  fur-boaring  seals  reaches 
out  to  the  mid-Pacific  speck  of  land 
known  as  Attn,  which  stands  like  a  sen- 
tinel of  the  mighty  deep  gazing  out  ujwn 
the  Knmtchatkan  shoros  of  Asia. 

Advancing  poleward  we  next  reach  the 
Kuakokwim  division,  e  nbracing  114,975 
square  miles  of  area  or  the  size  of  Ari- 
zona, including  the  extensive  interior 
Alaskan  plains  and  mountains  drained 
into  Boring  Sea  by  the  Kuskokwim 
and  Tonana  Rivers  in  the  latitude  of 
Central  Sweden  a^d  Norway  and  northern 
Russia,  The  salmon  fisheries  are  large 
and  valuabk',  but  the  ii'-oducts  of  the  soil 
are  limited. 

The  Yukon  division,   known  from  the 
mighty  river  and   valley  of  that  name, 
4S 


*«»«■»»» J*"*"-  "»"■ 


OVR  ALASKAN 

oomprises  170,715  square  miles  or  an  area 
almost  eqnal  to  California,  extending 
alon^  P  Tin'jr  Seji  toward  the  straitii. 
The  trade  of  the  Yukon  and  its  tributaries 
in  lumber,  fish  and  the  supply  of  the  gold 
buoters  with  the  necessities  and  even 
comforts  of  life  will  develop  to  extensive 
proportions. 

AJong  the  Arctic  circle  and  beyond  ex- 
tends the  vaiait  region  embracing  125,245 
square  miles,  about  the  size  of  New 
Mexico,  which  covers  the  entire  north- 
western corner  of  the  North  American 
Heniisi[>heir«?  aolnff  the  Btriii^  straits 
and  the  Arctic  Ocean  in  north  latitude 
about  00  degrees.  The  most  northerly 
American  settlement  at  Point  Barrow, 
about  72  degrees,  at  the  highest  poinit  of 
the  mainland,  jutting  into  the  Arctic 
Ocean,  isi  the  rendezvous  of  fleets  of  sail- 
ing craft  of  all  kinds  engaged  in  whaV 
ing,  hunting  and  trading.  A  brisk  traf- 
fic is  aliso  carried  on  with  the  hardy 
inhabitants  along  the  Arctic  Alaskan, 
coast  and  the  u(>ighboring  shores  of 
Asia. 

The  policy  of  Nicholas  I,  Emperor  of 
Russia,  when  he  proposed  the  cfisision  of 
this  sanivj  territoiT  to  the  United  Stat<^ 
as  early  as  1844,  in  this  day  has  the  ring 
of  true  statesmanship.  It  may  also 
have  in  the  shortsightedneiss  of  some  of 
our  own  statesmen  ere  wo  know  it  the 
glory  of  war.  The  campaign  yell  of 
"54-40  'r  fight"  may  be  a  serious  reali- 
zation unless  oircumventtMl  by  the  peace- 
ful annexation  of  a  region  which  must 
others  ise  remain  a  slander  upon  Ameri- 
can diplomacy  and  power  and  a  thorn  Ib 
the  side  of  the  American  people. 

II  was  a  perennial  source  of  interest  to 
the  eminent  statesman  who  secured  by 
his  skill  in  diplomacy  this  valuable  du- 
mai'Di,  to  picture  an  ideal  Arctic  conamon- 
wealtli  revellin*?  in  the  al)Uii(lanit  rlclies 
of  the  Alaskan  seas  and  rivers,  vallies 
and  mountains.  The  time  seems  approach- 
ing when  the  fervid  fancies  of  William 
H.  Seward  oft  portrayed  i'o  his  lucid 
flow  of  imagery  and  words  to  the  -writer 
may  become  a  magnificent  realization. 

46 


1 


|an  area 
tending 
I  straits, 
jutaries 
fhe  gold 
even 
tten»ive 

lond  ex- 
[125,345 

New 
north- 


It  is  noit  imixmsible  that  Amt^rican  citi- 
zens living  to-day  may  witness  in  the 
growth  of  population  and  enrtei-prise  in 
the  United  States  a  line  of  American 
commonwealths  extending  northward 
aod  facing  upon  the  very  axis  of  this 
mundane  sphere  itself. 


-i; 


■saasa 


T 


t 


w 


UNFURLIIIGIHEFLAG 


!  i 


r 


ne 


OurAlasb  Wonderland 


LETTER  NUMBER  IV. 


How  Alaska  Was    Transferred 

from  Russian  to  American 

Dominion. 


A  Pictnresqae  Scene  of   Interna- 
tional Ceremony  and  Salnte. 


"Old  Glory"  Floating   fifom  Tropical  to 
Arctic  Lands. 


During  the  icy  grasp  of  winter,  whioh 
had  comiineQctHi  to  overspread  the 
gloomy  denies.  which  pierce  the 
mountain  ramparts  of  the  coast 
and  penetrate  the  glistening  vales 
of  the  Upper  Yukon,  the  whole  coun- 
try counted  the  dreary  days  which  must 
elapse  ere  sunshine  and  warmth  could 
break  the  myterious  silence  and 
tell  the  world  of  the  fiate 
of  six  thousand  fellow-countrymjen 
tempted  into  the  frigid  jaws  of 
the  Arctic  in  pursuit  of  golden,  wealth. 

The  tension  to  which  the  Secretary  of 
State  felt  hina»elf  subjected  pending  the 
negotiation  of  the  treaty  of  cession  of  the 
Russian- Amei-ican  territory  to  the  United 
Stiutes  of  America  was  unmlsitakable.  The 
crafty  stateaman  .saw  bis  opportunity  in 

49 


OUR  ALASKAN 


\ 


the  petition  of  the  enterprising  citizens 
of  Washing|ton  Territoi-y.  They  asked  for 
trading  facilities.    He  aslied  for  Empire. 

The  initimacy  which  had  long  ago  spnnvg 
up  between  the  veteran  Edouard  de 
Stoeckl,  the  Russian  Envoy,  and  William 
11.  Seward,  the  Secretary  of  State,  was 
almost  brotherly.  They  were  much  to- 
gether in  off-dtity  personal  soeiabilitie? 
and  enjoyed  frequent  outings,  piacatorial- 
ly,  conviviallly  and  otherwise.  De  Stoeckl 
began  his  diploimaitic  career  in  Washington 
years  before  Mr.  Seward  appeared  nixm 
the  scene.  He  was  charge  d'afFairs  ad 
int.  in  1849,  under  the  envoysliip  of  that 
other  genial  Russian  diplomat,  Alexander 
de  Bodisco.  The  latter  married  one  of 
Washington's  charming  subuirban  ma  id- 
ens,  thereby  becoming  fllso  the  hero  of 
one  of  the  prettiest  of  our  capital  roman- 
ces of  love  at  first  sight  and  a  happy  life 
after  marriage. 

It  was  de  Stoeckl  who  succeeded  Bodis- 
oo  in  1854  and  continued  his  most  jsatis- 
factory  caireetr  at  Washington  until  18G9. 
He  rexjresented  successively  two  Bmjx'r- 
ors,  Nicholas  I  and  Alexander  II,  and 
held  diplomatic  initeroourse  with  seven  ad 
miuisitrationis,  beginning  with  Zaehary 
Tayloi-  and  ending  with  tJ.  S.  Grant.  He 
waia  Envoy  when  the  proffer  of  the  Rus- 
sian possessions  was  made  to  Pierce  and 
was  declined  by  that  Executive  imbecile 
and  again  to  the  Buchanan,  administra- 
tion. 

This  might  have  been  a  success  had  not 
secession;  its  aJttempted  political  dissolu- 
tion of  the  Union  and  real  war  sprumg 
nixm  the  coiratry.  The  glory  of  that 
diplomatic  achievement  might  have  fallen 
to  Lewis  Ca»s,  who  had  been  one  of  the 
foremost  ehampions  of  "554-40  or  flght"  in 
1844,  and  was  then  at  the  head  of  the  De- 
partment of  State,  or  to  Jeremiah  S. 
Black,  his  ante-Rebellion  successor. 

The  unfortuinate  strife  was  over,  tlie 
Union  was  unbroken  and  at  peace.  The 
men  for  the  occasion  were  in  ix)wer;  the 
deed  was  done.  , 

The  success  of  the  negotiation   which 
had  so  often  missed  fire  afforded  a  great 
relief  to  Mr.  Seward.    His  happiness  over 
50 


M 

V 


1 


WONDERLAND 


itizens 

Iked  for 
lire. 

sipnnig 

ard   de 
illiam 

e,  was 
ch    to- 
bilitip.o 
atorial- 
[Stoeekl 

ington 
d  iHKiii 

irs  ad 
of  that 
xaadoT 
one  of 

maid- 
ero  of 
ronaan- 
>py  life 


the  event  even  exalted  him  to  a  degree  of 
hilarity  which  he  did  not  hide  from  h!i 
friends.  His  first  thouglut  was  of  obliga- 
tion toward  his  friend  de  Stoeckl.  whom 
he  embraced  several  times  and  affection- 
ately called  my  deair  Stoeckl. 

Although  the  paynienit  of  the  sura 
agreed  upon  became  involved  in  tlie  re- 
construction, patronage  and  impeach- 
ment contentions  between  the  Preaideot 
and  Conigress,  after  a  long  and  bitter 
parliamentary  struggle,  the  amount  was 
voted  and  the  transaction  closed. 

The  possibility  of  so  much  delay  did  not 
enter  the  thoughts  of  the  Secretary  of 
State.  In  fact  it  was  evident  from  hia 
conversation  at  the  time  that  he  would 
not  have  given  any  attention  to  them  if 
they  had. 

There  never  was  a  time  when  William 
H.  Seward  shrank  from  the  courage  of 
Ms  convictions.  He  realized  that  he  was 
a  conspicuous  object  in  the  differences  be- 
tween the  executive  and  thie  legislative 
branches,  but  undeterred  by  the  uncer- 
tainties of  his  own  official  future  or  that 
of  the  administration,  he  went  ahead  with 
the  acquiescence  of  the  Emperor's  Gov- 
ernment to  complete  the  cession  by  the 
transfer  of  the  territory  to  the  United 
States. 

The  special  session  of  the  Fortieth  Oon- 
gress,  which  had  convened  in  March, 
1867,  had  shiown  no  disposition  to  provide 
the  purchase  money  stipulated  in  the 
treaty  with  Russia. 

Mr.  Seward  at  once  realized  the  situa- 
tion. After  waiting  fully  a  month,  in  an 
interview  as  to  th.e-  probable  course  of 
Congress,  the  Secretary  said  with  much 
emphasis: 

"Stoeckl  understands  our  politics  and 
the  heated,  harmiless  contentions  which 
sometimes  spring  up  in  the  administra- 
tion of  affairs.  But  we  will  carry  out 
evei-ything  to  the  letter." 
xi.*^  ^^^%^  notified  Minister  de  Stoeckl 
that  the  President  has  named  General 
Kousseau  to  receive  the  ceded  territory." 
It  19  possible  the  Secretary  observing  a 
look  of  incredulity  remarked:  "I  know 
51 


11 


OUR  ALASKAN 


1/ 


W        ^ 


i\ 


the  treaty  baa  not  been  ratified  by  the 
Senate,  but  that  will  come  along." 

The  appointment  of  General  Rousseau 
was  announcd  to  the  Russian  Minister 
May  13th,  but  the  ratification  did  not  oc- 
cur until  the  28th  of  the  same  month, 
1867.  "We  will  hoist  th»  American  flag 
over  the  territory.  If  by  any  act  of  au- 
thority from  any  source  it  should  be  haul- 
ed down  the  men  who  thus  dishonor  their 
country  will  be  doubly  dishonored  before 
their  constituents  und  the  people  and  the 
world." 

The  appropriation  of  tlie  money  was  not 
miade  by  Congress  until  fourteen  months 
after.  But  that  did  not  deter  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States  from  exchang- 
ing ratifications  on  June  20th,  1867,  and 
the  proclamation  of  the  treaty  by  the 
United  States  on  the  same  dsv. 

The  Government  having  beeJ  notified, 
Captain  Pestchouroff,  the  Russian  Com- 
missioner to  formally  deliver  the  territory 
to  the  United  States,  soon  arrived  et 
Waahington  with  the  necessary  instruc- 
tions. When  the  handsome  Russian  ca- 
yaJ  captain  with  his  warlike  trappings 
appeared  with  the  minister  at  the  de- 
partment to  pay  his  respects  and  show  his 
credentials  the  Secretary  afterward  re- 
marked: "You  see,  the  proceedings  arc 
going  forward.  We  would  hke  to  have 
the  money  first,  tut  the  ceremony  will  go 
on.  It  will  take  some  time  to  arrange  the 
details,  but  they  will  go  on." 

In  the  early  days  of  the  autumn  month 
of  October,  1869,  the  United  States  steam 
sloop  Ossipee,  Captain  George  P.  Em- 
mons, escorted  in  her  historic  voyage  by 
the  United  States  vessels  of  war  Rcsaca, 
Captain  Bradford,  and  Jamestown,  Gav- 
tain  McDougal,  proudly  bore  north- 
ward, into  the  solitudes  o^  the 
Alaskan  Gulf,  the  colors  of  the 
Republic  to  be  raised  in  token  of 
dominion  over  the  vast  domain  north  of 
Portland  dhannel.  Her  commander,  a 
native  of  Vermont,  had  devoted  much  of 
his  active  seafaring  life  to  the  Pacific  seas. 
He  had  been  in  the  Wilkes  exploring  ex- 
pedition in  the  Antarctic     and     Pacific 


I 


WONDERLAND 


>y  the 

iiaseau 
nister 
aot  oc- 
onth, 
■in  flag 
of  au- 
hiaul- 
r  their 
before 
nd  the 


Oceans,  1838-41.  He  had  commanded  a 
survoying  cruise  in  the  Pacific  islands, 
having  frequent  engagements  with  the 
natives.  He  led  a  successful  exploration 
of  the  regions  south  of  the  Columbia  to 
the  hePtdwateis  of  the  Sacramento  and 
throur^h  CaJifovnia  to  San  Francisco,  in 
1841,  having  had  numerous  conflicts 
v.-itfa  the  savages,  and  performed  heroic 
sea  and  shore  duty  in  Uppt>r  and  Loweo" 
Oaliforuia  during  the  war  with  Mexico. 

Also  on  the  vessel  was  Brigadier  Gen- 
eral Lovell  H.  Rosseau,  the  American 
Commissioner.  That  officer,  a  Kentuck- 
ian  by  birth,  had  settled  in  Indiana  and 
soon  after  entered  the  Ix\!risilatuTe.  In 
the  wefe  with  Mexico,  in  the  b«ttle  of 
Buena  Visita,  he  lost  one-third  of  the  men 
of  hia  company,  but  falling  back  to  the 
hacienda  held  the  position,  thus  contribut- 
ing largely  to  that  brilliant  victory.  Upon 
hia  return  he  was  elected  to  the  Indiana 
Senate,  but  removing  to  Kentucky,  be- 
came a  staunch  friend  of  the  Union.  He 
was  chosen  coloneil  of  the  Fifth  Kentucky 
VoJunteers  and  rose  to  Brigadier  Greneral 
in  Buell's  army.  He  fought  gallantly  at 
Shiloh  and  was  promoted  to  major  gen- 
eral for  bravery  at  Perryville  in  October, 
1862.  AftrT  the  close  of  the  war,  having 
been  elected  to  Congress  as  representative 
from  Kentucky  in  July,  1866,  he  became 
involved  in  a  knock-down  encounter  on 
the  floor  of  the  Hou^e  with  a  fellow-mem- 
ber, Josiah  B.  Grinnell,  of  Iowa,  for 
which  he  was  publicly  censured,  and  re- 
signed. 

Having  enlisted  the  friendship  of  An- 
drew Johnison  by  testifying  in  his  behalf  in 
the  impeaohlment  trial,  he  was  made 
Brigadier  General  und  Brevet  Major  Gen^ 
eral  in  the  Unite<l  States  army,  in  March, 
1867.  Immediately  after  he  was  desig- 
nated by  the  President,  as  we  have  seen, 
to  oflBcially  receive  Alaska  from  the  Rus- 
sian Governimeait  and  ass.ume  control  of 
the  Territory. 

The  raen-of-war  having  anchored  in  tlie 
magnificent  Bay  of  Sitka.  Gen.  Jefferson 
O.  Davis,  in  oomimand  of  Ihe  United  States 
trooiw,  on  a  transport  ship  at  anchor  in 

63 


!l\ 


■    '!  t 


f      ' 


OUR  ALASKAN 

thk?  harbor,  infarraod  the  Oommiti.sioneT« 
of  his  nrrival. 

AfU'r  comiuniiicatinijj  with  tho  RtisiHiiin 
Governor  on  shore  the  time  and  form  •>? 
conMiioiiiy  of   transfer   was  iirranK*''!. 

The  18th  <Hy  of  October,  18fi7,  on  the 
ishiiid  of  linraix>f  wan  one  which  \v«' 
miffht  expect  in  the  same  month  in  tlie 
latitude  of  New  England.  Tlio  temi>era- 
ture  stood  at  54  flcpre'.*.  The  littf"  cap- 
ital  Sitka  stretdied  in  isoliiteil  patchtns 
along  the  low  strip  of  land  on  the  west, 
with  Mount  Edgecumbc,  the  landmark  of 
the  bay,  towering  nbove  to  the  dizzy 
height  of  8,000  feet. 

At  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the 
troops  from  the  Ninth  United  States  n- 
fantry,  naval  officers,  seamen  and  mat- 
iues,  in  full  uniform,  in  launclios  fiMiii 
tho  three  men-of-war  iK'gnn  to  movi'  in 
nmrtial  airay  toiward  the  slioro.  (Jen- 
rral  Davis,  with  the  gnard  of  honor, 
twenty  TJnited  States  soldiers  from  the 
Second  Artillery,  bearing  the  United 
States  flag,  took  the  lead. 

In  the  meantime  the  Russian  garrison 
of  100  men  umlrr  Captain  Ilcrotistz.  in 
dark  blue  uniform,  red  facings  and  tli^t 
glazed  caps,  marched  to  the  Governor's 
houisp  and  formed  on  the  right  of  the 
Government  flagstaff.  The  Uniteil  Statin 
trooiw  from  the  landing  took  position  on 
the  left  of  the  Btaff,  the  Russians  present- 
ing arms  as  they  passed. 

The  Ru.s*<iaii  ladies.  Princes."!  "VFaK-^m- 
toflf,  wife  of  tho  Governor,  and  daughter 
of  the  Vice  Governor  and  thrt«  oth^u-s 
were  joined  by  six  American  ladies,  the 
wives  of  General  Davis  and  other  officers. 

At  h'alf-i)ast  3  o'clock  Prince  Maksou- 
toff,  the  Governor,  and  the  Commission- 
ers General  Rousseau  and  Captain  Pest- 
chour»ff  advanced  and.  taking  po«ition 
near  the  flagstaff,  were  saJuted  by  the 
troops.  At  the  proi>or  moment  Captain 
Pestchouroff  signalled  to  lower  the  Rus- 
sian flag.  As  soon  as  tlic  Imperial  <>ivl- 
ors  began  to  descend  tho  roar  of  a  gun 
from  the  United  States  warship  0»isii>ee 
reverberated  across  the  water.  It  was 
immediately  answere<l  by  a  gun  from  the 
Rueaian  batteries  on  sltore.  Thuo  alter- 
54 


WONDERLAND 


lOon  tlie 
tates  n- 
nd  mai- 

M1S  fnuii 
move  in 

(;oii- 

f  honor. 

i'oin   1  h« 

United 


nuitins:  from  ship  ami  Bhoro.  twenty-on* 
puns  \v<M'o  fircHl  by  oiicli.  the  troopa  of 
l>otli  nations  prt'»«'ivtiin>;  arniM. 

Captain  r«Htchouroft',  •tepping  forward, 
addreMicd  tlie  Am«Tican  Commia»ionor; 
"By  tlie  nutlioiity  of  Hi*  Majesty,  the 
KmiKTor  of  nil  the  Rusninfl,  I  transfer  t« 
you  as  apent  of  the  United  States  the 
territory  and  dominion  now  poMeised  by 
Hi-t  Majo.sity  on  tiw  contin*'!)!  (^f  Ainciici 
and  on  the  adjacent  islands  accordinj;  to 
the  treaty  made  between  the  two  jroveni- 
monts." 

General  Ro^l■•ea.u,  respondinif.  said: 
"I  accept  from  you  as  agont  of  His  Maj- 
esty, the  Emperor  of  all  the  Russia*,  the 
territory  and  dominion  which  you  have 
transferred  to  me  as  Oommissioncr  on 
the  part  of  the  Unitefl  State*  to  receive 
the  same." 

Tlie  Star  Simnjrled  Banner  of  iho  !{<•- 
public  was  bent  to  the  Tialyarda  by  two 
American  sailors.  A  midshipman  of  the 
United  State*  and  the  15-yoar-oM  son  of 
the  American  Oommiasioner  bejyan  to 
raise  the  ensiicn  «\)wly  to  the  top  of  the 
staff.  As  it  beg'an  to  rise  and  unfurl  its 
folds  a  giioi  boomed  forth  from  the  Rus- 
sian batteries.  A  moment  later  back 
echoed  a  responsive  roar  from  the  United 
States  vessels-of-war.  Thuis  jiltf^rnatinK. 
gun  for  gun,  the  flag  of  the  Republic  was 
raised  aloft  unjtil  2\  were  fired  by  cuh 
in  ratification  of  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
Constitution,  laws  and  treaties  of  the 
United  States  over  a  region  as  vast  in 
area  mt  France,  Germany  and  Spain  com- 
bined. 

It  was  amo»g  the  incidents  of  the  occa- 
sion to  note  the  heroic  composure  of  the 
Princess  MaksoutofE  during  the  cere- 
nonies. 

After  the  flag  of  her  Emperor  had  dis- 
appeared for  ever  from  its  place  of  maj- 
esty and  dominion  on  the  American  Con- 
tinent she  retired  to  her  apartments  and 
wept  bitterly, 

TThe  Russian  oflficia!  household  and  civil 
and  military  personnel  returned  to  their 
quarters  to  prepare  for  their  retura  to 
their  home  and  country  across  the  broad 
Pacific.  The  Undted  States  troops  estab- 
55 


■1 


rrr 


1      i 


OUR  ALASKAN 


lished  themaelTes     in     the  vacated   de- 
feiuwe. 

Ever  since,  sunrise  revielle  in  that  far 
nortb'^rr  land  ha.g  prreetcd  the  unfurling 
flag  of  the  Rejniblic  as  the  emblem  of 
American  dominion. 

With  thie  marcli  oi  oniterprise  the  region 
has  been  opened  to  industries  an  land  and 
and  watei-.  The  liag  of  the  Republic  now 
waves  from  Portland  chanael  to  Point 
Barrow,  on  the  Polar  Sea.  American 
vessels  of  war,  revenue  and  commerce  now 
traverse  Alaskan  Avatei-a.  on  established 
lines  of  duty  and  traffic. 

Thie  people,  not  only  of  the  UnltPd 
Staites,  but  of  the  civilizetl  world,  now 
await  the  marvelous  revelations  which  the 
future  twelve  months  may  bring  forth. 


1   / 


'<   ( 


11 


m 


*nt?raWir.y^KiTC^  twp*:'." 


WONDERLAND 


cated   de- 

i  that  far 
unfurling 
mblem  of 

the  region 
:  land  and 
nblic  now 
to  Point 
American 
aeree  now 
stablished 

le  UnitPd 
■)rld.  now 
which  the 
:  forth. 


Tart  Tactics, 


wasm 


OUR  ALASKAN 


luf 


I 


LETTER  NUMBER  V. 


A  Parliamentary  Battle  Royal  for 
Alaska. 


How     the    $7,200,000     Purchag* 
Money  Was  Won. 


While  a  Minority  Qalbbled  for  Extra-Con- 

stitational  Prerogatives  the  Limitation 

Expired. 


All  Might  Have  Been  I<oat~Hovr  It  lioofcs 
To-Oay. 


The  Fortieth  Oonirress  of  the  Undted 
States,  which  began  its  isomewliat 
erraitic  parliamentary  career  in  special 
session  on  March  4th,  1867,  by 
proclamatioD  ot  President  Andrew 
Johnson,  embraced  am  uusevered 
Union  but  a  still  unreconstructed 
representation  in  the  cons'tituent  as- 
sembly of  the  sovereign  i)eople,  com- 
prised of  the  thirty-seven  Commooiwofllths 
of  that  period.  These  Commonwealths 
were  daseified  by  tlie  results  of  the  Re- 
bellion of  the  Southern  States  then  ter- 
minated, about  two  years,  into  twenty-six 
States  which  remained  steadfast  in  the 
Union,  eight  States  wlilch  had  seceded 

69 


H 


\ 


"ijiiimi(**jf;iT> 


WONDERLAND 


irland 

V. 

loyal  for 

Purchast 


Extra-Con- 
mitation 


w  It  I<OOkB 


]he  Umted 

isomewhat 
in     sptx'ial 

1867,  r>y 
Andivw 

nnseverod 
construct  etl 
dtuent  as- 
ople,  com- 
noovp  CMilths 
nornvealths 

of  the  Re- 
s  then  ter- 

twenty-six 
fast  in  the 
ad  seceded 


and  were  wot  yet  admitted  to  representa- 
tion, and  three  States  partially  so  by  ac- 
tion of  the  House,  judging  of  the  quali- 
fications of  its  own  members. 

The  perplexing  subject  of  reconstruc- 
tion of  the  Union  so  far  as  the  restora- 
tion of  the  represenitatioin  of  the  seceded 
Sta4;es  in  Congress  was  concerned  still 
largely  engrossed  the  attention  of  both: 
Houses. 

With  at  least  four-fifths  of  the  person- 
nel I  had  a  personal  acquaintance  aod 
recall  vividly  their  characteristics  and 
physioal  appearancea,  foibles  and  capabili- 
ties. 

This  fact  seemed  to  impress  itself  with 
noticeable  force  upon  the  adroit  man  «t 
the  helm  j)f  international  relations  during 
the  most  intricate  and  dangerous  period 
.since  the  time  of  English  arrogance  and 
French  a«sumptions  in  the  beginning  of 
the  century.  It  constituted  a  leverage 
of  closer  acquaintance  and  a  certain 
amount  of  freedom  of  conversation  whiidi 
otherwise  might  not  have  existed,  even 
with  the  prestige  of  a  foremost  metropoli- 
tan journal  at  my  back  and  a  natural  pief- 
erenee  for  nntivity  and  residence. 

It  was  not  difficult  to  gratify  the  in- 
quisitorial methods  of  conversation  of  th.e 
great  Secretary,  but  to  receive  informa- 
tion in  return  was  more  so  on  account 
of  his  instinctively  secretive  habit. 

It  was  not  umaisual  to  find  myself  the 
interviewee  instead  of  the  intorviewer, 
and  to  leave  his  interesting  presence  but 
little  wiser  than  I  went  and  with  a  self- 
eonsciou.s:>ess  of  having  been  well 
"pumped." 

Upon  these  occasions  the  Secretary, 
however,  never  wavered  in  his  confidence 
of  ultimate  success.  "I  have  aU  faith, 
said  he,  "in  the  honor  of  the  American 
people.  Public  seoitiment  will  demand 
the  carrying  out  of  the  pecuniary  consid- 
erations of  the  cession.  No  one  of  im- 
partial judgment  can  honestly  question 
the  exclusive  right  of  the  Executive  to 
negotiate  and  the  Seuote  to  ratify 
treaties  with  foreign  powers.  There  can 
be  nothing  left  in  honor  for  the  House 
but  to  appropriate  the  money.  It  having 
59 


OUR  ALASKAN 


received  the  vise  so  to  speak  of  thie  upper 
House  acting  in  an  ladvisory  and  con- 
senting capacity  with  the  Executive." 

As  I  have  already  mentioned,  the  con- 
vention for  the  ocssiou  of  the  Russian 
Dependencies  in  North  America  to  the 
United  States  of  America  was  concluded 
Marclh  30th,  1867.  The  Senate,  part  of 
the  treaty-making  power  under  the  na- 
tioioal  Constitution,  was  summoned  inljo 
executive  session  by  the  Presideirt  to  con- 
sider that  convention  and  to  take  suchi  ac- 
tion as  its  judgment  might  determine. 

One  of  the  foremost  champions  of  rati- 
fication was  Charles  Summer,  a  Senator 
of  the  United  States  from  Massachusetts. 
His  speech  on  the  ceded  territory  from  an 
international,  strategic,  political,  ->ivH  and 
economic  point  of  view,  will  ever  stand 
as  a  lasting  tribute  to  his  g'ory  as  an 
orator,  a  statesman  and  a  patriot.  The 
convention  having  been  ratified,  tlie  nec- 
essairy  two-thirds  of  the  Senators  pres- 
ent concurring,  a  quorum  being  present, 
the  ratiticationis  were  exchanged  June 
20thi,  1867,  and  the  convention  was  pro- 
claimed on  the  same  day. 

The  sixth  article  of  that  convention 
stipulated  "in  consideration  of  the  ces- 
sion" the  United  States  agreed  "to  pay 
at  the  Treasury  in  Washington  ten 
months  after  the  exchange  of  ratifica- 
tions" *  *  "to  the  diplomatic  representa- 
tive or  other  agent  of  His  Majesty,  the 
Emperor  of  all  the  Russias,  duly  auithor- 
izfvd  to  receive  the  isame.  $7,200,000,"  &c. 
The  first  session  of  the  Fortieth  Con- 
gress after  sharing  in  the  eontentioua 
spirit  which  had  arLsien  between  the  Ex- 
ecutive and  Legislative  departments  of 
the  Government  on  March  30th,  the  day 
of  tlhe  conclusion  of  the  Russian  conven- 
tion, adjourned  to  July  3d.  After  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  same  tactics  with  in- 
creasing tension  during  this  fragment^yf 
the  session  on  the  20th  of  the  sanxe 
month,  tb**  Congress  adjourned  to  No- 
vember 21st. 

Ul>()n   assoinblinig   again    for   the   third 

time  in  eight  moniths,  C.  C.  Washiburn.  of 

WLsieousin.  who  always  reminded   nn'  of 

am  over-gi"own  school  boy,  drew  the  lines 

60 


r< 


WONDliJRLAND 


hie  upper 

md   oon- 

ive." 

the  oon- 

RuHsian 

.  to     the 

soaclud'cd 

part  of 

the  na- 

)n!ed  into 

it  to  con- 

suchi  ac- 

emuiiio. 

8  of  rati- 

,  Senator 

ichiisetts. 

from  on 

Tivil  and 

per  stand 

(ry  as  an 

lot.     The 

,  the  nec- 

to.rs  pres- 

g  present, 

iged  June 

was  pro- 

•onvenition 
f  the  ces- 
d  "to  pay 
igton  ten 
•  ratifiea- 
epn^enta- 
ijesty,  the 
ilv  authoir- 
1.000,"  &c. 
tieth  Con- 
■ontenitioua 
n  the  Fjx- 
■tmenta  of 
li,  the  day 
i.n  cjonven- 
tter  a  con- 
i  wHh  in- 
'apmentjyf 
the  snnie 
ed   to  No- 

the  third 
iifshiburn.  of 
ded  me  of 
V  the  lin«?s 


i 


of  a  contoist  on  a  resolution  that  In  the 
"Present  finanicial  condition  of  the  coun- 
try any  more  purchases  of  territory  f;,re 
inexpedient  and  this  House  will  feel  itself 
under  no  obligation,  to  vote  money  to  pay 
for  any  isuch  pm'chiaises  unless  there  shall 
be  more  urgent  and  pressing  necessity 
than  now  exists." 

Although  the  i"iCtful  chairman  of  the 
Committee  on.  Foreign  Affairs,  Gen.  Na- 
thaniel P.  Bank.s,  a  man  of  the  people, 
objectetl,  the  resolution  wais  paiased  by  a 
decisive  vote. 

Its  author,  however,  disclaimed  any 
npi)lication  to  "Walrussia,"  as  he  termed 
that  region  in  bis  antiquated  n^menicla- 
ture,  but  to  the  pending  negotiations  with 
Denmark  for  St.  Thomas  and  the  group 
of  the  Virgin  Isles.  He  sihouted  that  he 
would  serve  notice  om  Denmark  that  we 
would  not  pay;  9fcill  louder  be  served 
"notice  on  the  world  thiat  we  would  not 
pay  for  acquisitions  not  demanded."  No 
doubt  the  wotrld  heard  and  made  "note 
on't." 

This  final  fragment  of  the  firsit  (sx>ecial) 
.session  of  the  Fortieth  Congress  seemed 
to  have  caught  the  idea  of  American  des- 
tiny, which  was  so  realistically  brought 
forwani  in  the  Russian  asquisition  and 
the  proposed  purchase  of  St.  Tliomas. 

On  the  »ame  day  George  F.  Miller,  of 
the  Harrisburg  district  of  Pennsylvania, 
introfluced  a  joint  ntsolution  to  annex 
Mexico  to  the  United  States. 

Earlier  in  the  session  Gen.  Banks,  chair- 
man of  the  Committee  on  Foreign  Af- 
fairs, introduced  a  joinf  resolution  "re- 
garding ;vitb  solicitude  tlw  projiosed  con- 
federation of  the  Provinces  on  the  North- 
ern frontiers  of  the  Unitefl  Stfltes  from 
ocean  to  ocean  without  consulting  the  peo 
pie  to  be  united  uixxn  monarcliial  ^ritv 
ciples  in  contravention  of  the  traaitions 
and  principles  of  this  Government  tending 
to  incrcVJse  the  embarra.'»sments  already 
exis-tii'g  between  the  two  Governments." 

Aft.^r  an  interesting  colloquy  the  joint 
re>S';iution  pnssed  without  a  'ii\'sion. 

Mr.  Wa^burn,  of  "Wisconsin,  took  time 
61  -     - 


OVR  ALASKAN 


:i| 


If 


1 


M 


it! 


I 


ill 


-m 


to    oppose    a  resolution    in  favor  of  the 
Irialh  Fenians. 

Mr.  Miller,  of  Pennisylvania,  again  took 
lip  the  parliamentary  cudgels  in  a  joint 
resolution  on  the  day  of  final  adjoiimment 
of  this  "extraordinary"  seission  for  "th« 
purchase  amd  annexation  to  the  United 
States,  of  British  Columbia,  including 
Vancouver  Island,  provided  it  could  be  ac- 
complished upon  such  fair  and  honorable 
terms  as  might  be  satisfactory  to  both  na- 
tions." 

This  "J.  R."  by  reference,  found  its  way 
into  the  parliamentary  catacombs  of  the 
Committee  on  Foreign  Affairs,  but  ita 
resuscitation  in  the  prospective  develop- 
ments of  that  quarter  of  the  hemisphere, 
in  touch  with  American  institutions  and 
American  citizens,  may  be  found  nearer 
at  hand  than  now  appears  in  the  proces- 
sion of  events. 

I  have  already  had  occasion  to  allude  to 
t!he  views  of  William  H.  Seward  himself, 
expressed  three  years  later  in  th«  clxief 
city  of  that  very  region. 

The  very  red-faced,  rotund  arls/to- 
craitic  patriot  of  the  Democratic  persua- 
sion, John  V.  L.  Pruyn,  gave  the  Badger 
8t4ites)main  one  under  the  chin,  figuratively 
speaking,  in  a  suggestion  that  if  the  ma- 
jority had  listened  to  the  snggostion  of  the 
minority  (his  party  associates  in  the 
House)  the  Treasury  "would  have  saved 
fifty  times  enough,  to  pay  for  Russifani 
America,  St.  Thomas  and  all  other  pur- 
chases of  foreign  territory  contemplatetl 

This  enlightened  gentleman  of  the  old 
school  thought  national  honor,  national 
by  the  Government." 
position  and  natiomal  strength  demanded 
it,  but  he  also  desired  to  extend  American 
institutions  over  the  whole  continent. 
Aftei"  all  these  gloi-ious  pyrotechnics  "on 
the  floor"  we  find  him  dodging  tlio  vote 
when  the  passage  of  the  appropriation  was 
reached. 

Thiere  resulted  miioh  parliamentary 
sparring  on  a  proposition  of  the  stately 
Wood,  Fernando,  of  New  York,  on  the 
reservation  to  the  House  of  "the  right  to 
judge  of  the  necessity  acd  propriety  of 

62 


<         1 


WONDERLAND 


»r  of  thie 

fain  took 
a  joint 
Imminent 
I for  "the 
United 
incliHling 
lid  be  ac- 
lonorable 
botai  na- 

d  its  way 
«  of  the 
but  ita 
develop- 
mi  sphere, 
tionis  and 
id  nearer 
le  proces- 

allude  to 

d  himself, 

th«  chief 

-d  aaisfto- 
ic  persua- 
le  Badger 
gniratively 
if  the  mn- 
tion  of  the 
tes  in  the 
ayo  saved 
r  Russiaiii 
other  pur- 
Ltemplatetl 
of  the  old 
•,  nationial 

demanded 
American 
continent, 
shnics  "on 
r  tlie  vote 
iatiou  was 

iamentairy 
le  stately 
•k,  on  the 
i(>  riffht  to 
opriety   of 


making  disbuirsements  of  the  public 
money  without  reference  to  any  action  of 
the  President  and  Seniaite  in  the  acquisi- 
tion of  territOTy  under  that  clause  of  the 
Oonstitution  which  vests  in  them  the 
power  to  make  treaties  with  foreign  na- 
tions." 

The  second  session  of  the  Fortieth  Con- 
gress  ssembled  on  December  3d,  18G7.  In 
the  referenice  of  the  President's  message 
to  the  committees  that  portion  calling  at- 
tention to  the  payment  of  the  amount 
sipulated  in  the  convention  with  Russia, 
gave  rise  to  a  parliamentary  quibble  in 
w^hich  Gen.  Ben  F.  Butler,  of  Massachu- 
setts; E.  B.  Washburn  of  Illinois,  and  G. 
C.  Washburn,  of  Wisconsin,  were  notori- 

OtOB, 

Mr.  Washburn,  of  Wisconsin,  opened  in 
a  studied  effort,  designed  to  be  funmy  at 
the  expeiuse  of  Secretary  Seward  and  the 
Ruissian  convention,  and  also  over  the 
negotiations  with  Denmark  for  the  Vir- 
gin Isles  for  a  naval  atationt 

"Thiad"  Stevens,  a  man  of  xwwerful 
physique,  with  a  sledge-hammer  method 
of  logic,  the  undisputed  leader  of  the  Re- 
publican side,  hobbled  down  the  aisle  on 
his  club  foot  and  threw  a  bomb  among  the 
factious  spirits  by  declaring  that  the 
treaty  had  been  negotiated  anid  confirmed 
by  the  Senate  and  therefore  the  House 
had  no  alternative  but  to  vote  the 
money." 

The  satme  doctrine  was  held  by  Mr.  J. 
V.  Ij.  Pruyn,  of  New  York,  a  leader  on 
the  Democratic  side. 

At  this  juncture  that  long  and  lank 
(Specimen  of  an  East  Tennesseean, 
Horace  Maynard,  President  Hayes'  Post- 
master General  three  years  latea*,  befogged 
the  querulous  Washburn  by  rt-imarking 
that  "no  doubt  England  seeing  the  embar- 
rassment would  take  the  bargain  off  our 
han-la  and  pay  both  Russia  and  us  a  bonus. 
He  vvouM  inquire  from  the  gentleman 
from  Wisconsin  whether  he  would  be  will- 
ing to  see  such  an  eventuality." 

'i'^he  gentleman  from  the  Badger  State, 
not  to  be  badgered  on  his  own  preserves, 
gazed  in  silence  upon  the  loaded  Guger  of 
63 


OUR  ALASKAN 


scorn  ixtinted  at  him  by  the  gentleman 
frcwn  Tennessee. 

The  same  Waishburn  took  another  sinoh 
in  his  windsiail,  complaining  that  the 
treaty  wais  conducted  in  secrecy— that  the 
country  was  surpi'ised  when  it  was  an- 
nounoed — that  no  man  (including  his 
opaque  self  of  course)  had  asked  for  it- 
no  public  sentiment  was  in  its  favor 
(which  was  untrue)— no  newspapers  sup- 
ported it  (wihich  was  unti'ue;  the  New 
York  Herald,  of  which  I  was  a  represen- 
tative, was  one  of  its  foremost  chiaimpions 
of  the  preisis,  and  so  were  many  others). 

He  then  paid  his  respects  to  the  Sec- 
retary of  State  for  "having  exhausted  the 
regions  of  ice  and  snow  now  tuminp:  hia 
attention  to  tlie  tropics,"  all  of  whidh 
branched  out  into  a  rigmarole  which  some- 
what impeached  bis  own  knowledge  of  the 
geography  of  his  own  hemisphere. 

The  cihtairman  on  Foreign  Affairs  hav- 
ing called  him  down  on  his  information 
concerning  the  contents  of  a  confidential 
Senate  document,  he  tried  to  explain  that 
he  came  by  it  honestly,  from,  which  he 
branched  into  an  account  of  how  the  new 
IK>sisession8  were  visited  by  Russian  ex- 
ploi'ers,  all  of  wlhioh  wais  unknown  to  him- 
self and  consequently  to  the  people  of  the 
United  States  till  discovered  by  the  Sec- 
retary of  State.  He  referred  to  Jay's 
British  treaty  in  the  House  in  1794  and 
to  Jefferson  as  admitting  that  the  Louis- 
iana purchase  had  no  warrant  in  the  Con- 
stitution, but  he  justified  it  by  imperious 
necessity. 

The  iwJdtieal  confusion  in  Congress  be- 
tween the  Executive  Mansion  and  the 
Capitol,  growing  out  of  the  President's 
"My  Policy"  programme,  which  had 
threatened  as  early  as  the  Thirty-ninth 
Congress  an  effort  to  impeach,  was  rapidly 
hastening  to  a  crisis. 

On  January  30tb,  1868,  the  ten  months 
limitation  in  the  pecimiary  stipulations  of 
the  convention  of  cession  terminated. 

It  was  apparent  that  Secretary  Seward 
had  anticipated  delay  not  so  much  on  ac- 
count of  any  peal  danger  of  defeat  when 
the  vote  was  reached,  but  owing  to  the 
64 


I! 


WONDERLAND 


leman 

sittoh 
the 
t  the 
aiir 
his 
■r  it- 
favor 
sup- 
New 
resen- 
rplona 
rs). 
Sec- 
ed  the 
as  his 
whicib 
some- 
of  the 


temper  of  Ooogress  toward  the  Presidenit. 

To  meet  this  emergency  he  had  asked 
an  extension  of  time,  which  was  granted 
by  the  Russian  Emperor. 

The  controversy  with  the  President  cul- 
minated in  the  House  on  March  2d,  1868, 
when  the  House  of  Representativea  ex- 
hibited artiolies  of  impeachment  in  the 
name  of  themselves  and  loIl  the  people  of 
the  United  States  against  Andrew  Johji- 
sou,  President  of  the  United  States,  in 
maintenance  and  support  of  their  im- 
peachment lagainst  him  for  high  crimes 
and  misdemeanors  in  office. 

Thesie  proc<>eding8  began  on  March  13th, 
and  on  May  26th  foililowing  the  President 
was  acquitted  by  a  vote,  not  guilty,  35; 
guiJty,  19;  or  three  Itess  than  the  neces- 
sary two  thirds. 

Pending  the  sessionsi  of  the  High  Court 
of  Impeachmeoit  in  the  upper  wing  of  the 
Capitoil,  General  DanJks,  chairman  of  the 
Committee  on  Foreign  Affairs,  on  May 
18th  reported  in  the  lower  wing  a  bill,  H. 
R.  1096,  making  an  appropriaition  of 
money  to  carry  into-  effect  the  treaty  of 
March  30th,  1867  with  Russia,  with  the 
majority  report  and  asked  permission  for 
the  minority  to  submit  their  report,  also 
the  correspondence  granting  an  extension 
of  time  by  Ruissia, 

The  debate  began  on  June  30th,  1868, 
in  committee  of  the  whole  House,  James 
A.  Garfield  in  the  chair.  General  Banks, 
clmirmau  of  the  Committee  on  Foreign 
Affairs,  opened  the  discussion  in  behalf 
of  the  bill'.  After  mnch  speaking  on  both 
sides  the  vote  was  taken  on  July  14th,  af- 
ter a  fortniglit's  parliamentary  man- 
oeuvring and  talk. 

During  this  period  divers  proiwsitione 
by  way  of  amendmeni  asserting  cer- 
tain uneonstitutionol  claims  of  the 
tnu-ely  Tegisiative  branch  of  Congress 
were  submitted  by  an  unthinking  minor- 
ity. It  would  be  a  waste  of  time  to 
enumerate  these  whereases  and  resolves 
which  were  purely  superei-ogatory. 

Thaddeus  Stevpirs,  of  Pennsylvania, 
took  occasion  to  read  a  sharp  lecture  to 
the  infringers  of  the  Conatitution.     Said 

(id 


:.h' 


1  I 'J 


•'I. 


iJl 


,.( 


OUR  ALASKAN 


ll 


.|  I 


!i(. 


'^ 


h«'  in  his  sententioua  way  aad  in  that  po- 
culiiar  rasping  voice:  "Every  provision 
of  the  constitution  is  perfect— one  depart- 
ment cannoi;  encroach  upon  another — the 
President  and  Senate  make  troaitiea  with 
no  reference  to  o^her  powers  in  the  Gov- 
ernment. When  the  Senate  ratify  and  it 
is  ppoollaimed  it  it  a  treaty  and  perfect.  * 
*  *  When  was  the  Hous«  to  be  called 
upon  to  intervene,  when  they  first  began? 
That  wa»  never  heard  of.  When  the 
terms  were  offered?  That  was  never 
heard  of.  When  the  terms  were  agreed 
upon  and  it  went  before  the  Senate  for 
ra'tifieation,  was  this  body  then  to  be  call- 
ed in  to  State  their  objections?  Such  a 
thing  was  never  heard  of.  We  are  to  do 
certain  things  and  Russia  undertook  to 
do  certain  other  things.  She  has  done 
them  land  we  have  not.  Shall  we  re- 
pudiate our  part  of  the  obligation.  That, 
sir,  is  the  whole  question." 

The  effect  was  conclusive. 

The  vote  on  the  passage  of  the  bill  stood 
yeas,  113;  nays,  43;  not  voting,  44. 

On  the  «arne  day  the  bill  was  received 
in  th«  Senate  from  the  House. 

On  July  17th  Oharles  Sumner,  chiair- 
man  of  the  Committee  on  Foreign  Rela- 
tions, moved  to  take  up  the  House  bill. 

The  Senate  having  stnick  out  most  of 
tlie  House  form  substituted  the  simple 
words:  "That  there  be  and  hereby  is  ap- 
propriated *  *  $7,200,000  in  coin  to  ful- 
fill the  stipulations  contained  in  the  sixtlh 
articlie  of  th«  treaty  with  Russia,  con- 
cluded at  Washington,"  etc. 

The  substitute  passed   without  a  di- 
vision. 

After  several  attempts  to  reconcile  the 
differences  in  conference,  on  July  23d, 
General  Banks,  presenting  the  report  to 
the  House,  demanded  the  previous  ques- 
tion, whiclh  was  ordered  74  to  48. 

The  quibblers  for  the  unconstitutional 
interference  of  the  House  were  on  their 
feet  yelling  for  recognition,  Washburn,  of 
Illinois,  and  Butler,  of  Massachusetts, 
shouting  in  unison,  "an  entire  surrender 
of  the  House."     Paine,     of     Wisconsin, 

66 


l^S 


WONDERLAND 


^ 


po- 

sion 

>art- 

-the 

nth 

l«ov- 

lid  it 

* 

tiled 

bin? 

thie 


moved  to  lay  the  report  oa  the  table, 
whidh  was  defeated. 

In  the  midst  of  the  uproar  on  agreeing 
to  the  conference  report  the  vote  stood 
yeas,  91;  nays,  48;  and  not  voting  77. 

On  July  25th,  1808,  the  Senate  hav- 
ing concurred,  the  PresidPMi  pro  tern, 
of  the  Senate,  bluff  old  lienjamin  P. 
Wade,  of  Ohio,  aind  the  Speaker  of  the 
House,  "all  -  nilofi"  Schuyltea:  Colfax,  of 
Indiana,  haviiij;  signed  the  bill  it  was 
promptly  approved  by  the  President. 

It  will  be  interesting  later  to  throw  the 
search-lights  of  subsequent  events  upon 
the  personality  of  this  remarkable  par- 
liiamentary  struggle. 


I 


67 


i.  y 


ii 


|!i 


As  In  a 


f. 


LETTER  NUMBER  VI. 


A  Pretty  Kettle  of  Fish  From  the 
Alaskan  Parliamentary  Locker. 


Banks,  Bontweil,  Dawes,  Garfield, 

Samnel  6.  Randall,  Thau  dens 

Stevens,  Windom  and  106 

Others  Said  Yea. 


T^ 


Allison,  "Ben"  Batler,  Covode,  Delano  and 
39  Others  Said  Nay. 


James   O.  Blaine,  AVm.  D.  Kellejr  and  l^i 
Othen  Were  Artftil  Dodgers. 


It  '■«  iostnictive  in  the  light  of  events  to 
take  u  look  back  to  the  eircuuistanoins  and 
results  whidi  attended  the  course,  through, 
tiie  4()th  Congriiss  of  the  Uniu-d  Stales, 
of  the  bill  to  api>rox)ria.te  the  purehose 
money  for  the  vast  i-egioiiis  along  the 
western  shores  of  the  We&tern  Hemi- 
sphere north  of  laititude  54-40  degi-ees 
north  and  v/est  of  teui  marine  leagues 
along  the  ooaist  northward  to  Mount  St. 
Bliais  amd    lontgitude   141   degrees   west, 

69 


OUR  ALASKAN 


I 


I: 


a<?roi9s  the  Pacific  Ocean  almost  to  within 
eig'bt  of  the  shores  of  Asia. 

As  a  study  of  the  bleared  vision  of 
statesmea  so-called,  naiTOwed  up  by  local 
iu/terests  and  an  entirely  uiadequate  reali- 
zation or  even  appreciation  of  iiatinnaJ  in- 
terests, welfare  or  destiny,  it  will  have 
its  mfluenee  upon  pviblic  opinion  to-day. 
The  nations  of  the  world  are  establishing 
their  "spheres  of  influence"  by  land 
"grabbing"  projects  and  other  schemes 
against  the  inevitable  conflict  of  the 
mig*hty  against  the  weak. 

It  cannot  be  said  in  paliation  of  the  un- 
patriotic stand  taken  by  Representatives 
who  were  supposed  to  be  possessed  of  at 
least  oi'diuiary  intelligence,  thrt  they  were 
groijing  about  in  the  dark.  W^^n  the 
conclusion  of  the  cooventioh  was  announc- 
ed the  careful  investigation  which  iind 
been  made  by  the  far-seeing  statesmen  at 
tlie  helm  of  foreign  affairs,  before  the 
negotiations  were  commenced,  was  abund- 
antly sustained  by  dociunents  and  corres- 
pondence from  individuals  in  all  stations 
of  life  and  covering  tiie  broadest  range  of 
fact  and  experience. 

The  most  noitable  of  these  contributionis 
were  embodied  in  a  letter  from  Commo- 
dore John  Rod?  ?(rs,  who  had  command  of 
early  exploring  expeditions  in  those  seas; 
an  abstract  from  Prof.  Spencer  F.  Baird, 
director  of  the  Smithsonian  Institutian, 
communicating  information  from  their 
two  Gxploa'ers  giving  account.s  of  clinuite, 
timber,  soil,  animal's,  fish,  niim'ral:^,  in- 
habitants, &c.:  from  Gen.  M.  C.  Meigs, 
quartermaisior-genral  U.  S.  A.,  a  Califor- 
nia pioneer  in  the  army;  Major  General 
H.  W.  Halleck.  commanding  military  di- 
vision of  the  Pacific.  May  22d,  18(57,  to 
Major  General  E.  D.  Townsend,  A.  A.  G.; 
Perry  McD.  Collins,  Chirr  of  the  Survey 
of  the  Overland  Telegiaph  Company,  and 
swres  of  other*. 

An  instructive  selection  of  this  valuable 
congratulatory  epistolary  material  com- 
municated to  the  Secretary  of  State  may 
Ik;  found  in  "House  of  Representatives 
Executive  Documen/t.  No.  177,  Fortieth 
Congress,   Second    Session,"    transmitted 

70 


l\' 


"^ 


TTOND^RLAND 

to  that  body  in  rosponse  to  a  resolution  of 
December  19th,  1807. 

That  the  allegatiou  by  Mr.  Washburn, 
of  La  Orosse,  that  no  newspapren  support- 
ed the  acquisition,  was  untrue,  is  demon- 
fttarted  by  refei-eri.ce  to  tlie  following  Jour- 
nals, to  which  he  had  access,  ais  lu'onii- 
nent  in  the  long  list:  Botson.  Eveuiug 
Transcript,  April  11th,  18G7;  Philadelphia 
North  American,  April  12th,  1867;  New 
York  Hei-akl,  April  29th,  1807,  a  valuable 
and  exhaustive  article;  Pacific  Tribune, 
September  7th',  1867;  New  York  Evening; 
Post,  November  5th;  Alta,  California 
apecial  corresijondent,  October,  1867. 

I  have  mentioned  that  Cadwallaaor  C. 
Washburn,  a  native  of  Li^  '>rm<'re,  a 
State,  remarkable  to  say,  wuich  did 
not  casit  a  single  vote  in  favor  of  the 
treaty,  now  lauded  withi  such  wide-world 
honor,  appai-ently  a  Representative  in  the 
Portietlh.  Congress,  siaiid  that  "no  man 
.Tis'ked  for  the  treaty." 

William  H.  S^nvard,  a  citizen  of  tiie 
United  States,  occupying  an  official  post 
of  high  trust,  sued  for  it  on  behalf  of  the 
welfare  of  his  countiy  then  and  now  and 
hereafter,  and  in  the  name  of  the  whole 
people  possibly,  excepting  the  pent-up 
Da  Crosse  ci-ooker. 

"Tliat  there  was  no  sontinieut  in  its 
favor."  There  was  sufficient  to  carry  tiie 
appropriation  through  the  lower  Houise  of 
Congress,  despite  his  machinations  by  a 
majority  of  seventy  votes  over  these  vot- 
ing and  a  clear  majority  of  twenty-six 
over  the  combined  strengthi  of  the  uu- 
piitriotic  nays  and  the  dodgers. 

Among  the  thirty  States  then  repre- 
sented twenty-five  gave  it  the  solid  or  ma- 
jority support  of  their  respective  delega- 
tions voting. 

That  the  treaty  was  "conducted  in  se- 
crecy" was  correct.  All  of  them  aie. 
That  it  was  "a  surprise"  as  alleged  by 
the  gentleman  from  La  Crosse  follows  as 
a  logical  sequence  of  his  firsit  proposition. 

With  the  exception  of  the  genitknnan 
from  La  Crosse  and  forty-three  others  in 
the  body  of  which  he  w.ss  a  riembei',  by 
the  time  a  vote  was  reached  on  the  ap- 

71 


I 


i 


lij 


(   .,■.' 


OVR  ALASKAN 

propriatioin,  nearly  sixteen  months  nfter, 
there  w&»  manifested  a  public  .sentiment 
vvihiichi  niiist  have  sftaggered  the  obtuse 
champion  of  iuternatioiiial  dishonor.  In 
fact  to  siieh  an  extent  that  the  gentleman 
from  La  Crosse  found  himself  among  the 
dodgers  when,  the  ci'isis  was  reached. 

And  now  as  we  have  heard  from  tiie  gtMi- 
tlemaii  from  I^a  Cros«e,  let  us  take  a 
glance  at  the  view«  of  a  gentleman  of  thp 
Unitetl  Sta+es  of  America,  in  the  sai-it- 
Congress  from  Findlay,  then  representing; 
a  distinct  aind  the  State  of  Ohio  in  senti- 
ment. 

Thiis  gentleman,  a  jouraalivsit,  a  soldier, 
a  legisilator  and  a  patriot  in  order  "•to  ease 
the  apprehenisionis"  of  the  gentleman  from 
La  Oi'osse  made,  on  the  floor  of  the  House, 
a  propositioip  "to  pay  within  tweuity  days 
after  th**  assent  of  Congress  was  given  to 
the  purcihiase.  to  the  Governmeit  $10,000,- 
000  in  gold  for  the  territory  of  Alaska  in 
fee  simple,  leaving  the  right  of  eminent 
domain  in  the  United  St^itea." 

In  regard  to  the  allegations  of  virTh- 
lessness,  sterility,  bairenness  and  huLJdi- 
ty,  he  had  official  reports  "to  siiow  that 
they  were  wholly  unsustained."  He  re- 
minded tlhle  geoitlomaui  from  Wisconsin 
that  some  of  his  pessimistic  friends  before 
him  said  thaiL  California  was  worthless, 
could  not  .sustain  a  population,  and  now 
he  wais  reiteraiting  that  stock  argument. 
The  Golden  Commonwealth  answered  for 
lileirself.  By  accepting  the  treaty  we  caged 
tho  Britiwh  Lion  on  the  Pacific  Cotust,  we 
erli>pled  t.lnat  great,  and  grasping  monopoly 
the  Hudisoni  Bay  Company  which  con- 
trols the  fur  trade  of  North  America,  "en- 
riching themselves  and  the  British  Gov- 
ernment at  the  exi)ense  of  what  ought  and 
justly  does  belong  to  the  Anaerican  ix'ople." 
California  sends  out  millions,  he  said,  of 
rthiining  gold  "every  year  and  enornioiuH 
clips  of  wool.  Potatoes  aud  flour  were 
brought  from  Chili  in  1852— California  in 
1867  feeds  a  large  iWTtion  of  the  i>opula- 
tion  of  tliie  Pacific  Coas^t  an<l  Tshnnls.  The 
same  with  Oregon  and  Washington  and 
will  be  with  Alaska." 

The  pei'suasive  MuuKcn  gave  a  Demo- 

72 


WONDERLAND 

craitic  home  thinisit  by  exclaiming  thot 
"some  gentlemen  are  extremely  economi- 
cal in  <!Vorj'thiing  except  Nesro  Ktneaus 
r  A  military  despotism  over  th<»  Sduthern 
Sitates.  They  can  establish  free  schools 
for  juvenile  Africams  of  the  South  to  the 
exclusion  of  the  poor  white  orphans.  They 
build  colleges  h<>Te  (Wamhinpton)  to  t'du- 
carte  the  coloired  man,  but  thoy  canoiiit 
give  a  few  dollars  for  a  territory  with  gi- 
gantic  forests,  rich  in  ^ivineral  resource'i, 
inexihiaustible  fisheries,  beds  of  hnj-d 
cf  :!,  and  which  will  furnish  homes  and 
occupation,  competence  and  wealth  for 
millions  of  our  i)eople  for  ages  to  come." 

The  patriotic  gentleman,  continuinig, 
»aid:  "The  Russian  diplomiats  are  fax- 
soeing  and  shrewd.  The"  know,  Rs  does 
every  one  who  is  a  close  observer  of  his- 
tory, that  the  muse'es  of  the  British  lion 
are  weakening.  His  growl  or  roar  is  not 
so  terrible  as  formerly.  The  governmenit 
of  that  country  is  on  the  wane.  Russia 
would  be  onr  firm  ally  in  a  war  with 
England — Englajiid's  star  has  passed  its 
zeaith.  Russia  will  one  day,  and  that  at 
no  distant  period,  control!  England's  Asi- 
atic possessions.  When  that  happens,  «s 
a  natural  consequence  the  United  States 
will  take  possession  of  the  Bahama  and 
all  the  British  West  India  Islandis,  Cana- 
da will  fall  in  our  liap  like  a  ripo  apple. 
Spain's  possessions  oc  the  continent  must 
be  ours.  Tlie  two  great  powers'  on  the 
parth  will  be  Russia  and  the  United 
States." 

Tii"'  observations  of  the  gentlemian 
of  the  United  States  from  Findlay  had 
their  weight  in  completely  ob'dtoratiug  thie 
Alaskan  horoscope  of  the  gentleman  frcm 
Ija  Cross. 

After  years  of  progress  in  the  worhi''^ 
affairs  they  have  the  force  of  prophecy. 

There  were  other  speeches  of  deep  ii>- 
terest  and  weight  in  support  of  the  mia.s- 
terly  diplomatic  achievement  ot  William 
H.  Seward  in  his  official  ^lapaicity  9"d 
there  were  others  very  windy  and  noisy 
on  the  other  side.  Those  which  I  have 
given  were  regarded  at  the  time  tus  fair- 
".ty  representing  the  pros  and  eons  of  the 
quesl^iou. 

73 


i 


T  .■^■^»'**f"^!**W»*< 


4 


f 


OVR  ALASKAN 

The  call  of  the  roll  of  the  House  of 
Representatives  of  the  Fortieth  Ooi>gres8, 
arranged  by  States  and  clasisified  accord- 
ing to  the  usual  geographie^l  sections,  for 
the  yea«  and  nays  on  H.  II.  1096  appro- 
priating $7,200,000  for  the  purchase  of 
Alaisba,  presents  some  singular  reve- 
lations  of  the  short-sightodness  of  inen 
even  of  ability,  who  bubble  up  to  the  suir- 
f,ncr>  of  public  aff.'iirs. 

We  begin  with  New  England  and  the 
State  of  Maine,  which  occupies  the  east- 
ern ais  Alaska  does  the  westorn  extremity 
of  the  national  jurisdiction. 

TTie  New  England  States,  5;  rotes,  27; 
yeas.   17;   nays,   7;  not  voting,  3. 

Mnin'o,  Representatives,  5;  nays,  4;  not 
voting.  1. 

New  Hanapshire,  Representatives,  3; 
nays,  2:  not  voting,  1. 

Vermont,  Representatives,  3;  yeas,  S. 

Massachusetts,  Representatives,  10; 
yeas,  9;  nays,  1. 

Rhode  Island,  Representatives,  2;  yeas, 
2. 

Connecticut,  Representatives,  4;  yeas, 
3:  not  voting,   1. 

It  will  doubtless  surprise  most  citi- 
zens at  this  day  to  contemplate  such  a 
progressive  section  with  the  heritage  of 
Lexington  and  Ticonderoga  casting  any- 
thing but  a  solid  aflirmative  vote  on  a 
question  of  niational  honor  and  desitiny. 
It  is  to  the  credit  of  Massachusetts  that 
her  only  negative  vote  was  that  of  ?. 
well-known  demagogue.  B.  F.  Buiieir. 
wihile  on  the  side  of  national  expansion, 
were  found  such  names  as  Samuel  Hoo^)- 
er,  Nathaniel  P.  Banks,  George  S.  Bout- 
well,  John  D.  Baldwin  and  Henry  L. 
Dawes. 

Vermont  and  "Little  Rhody"  cast  their 
soMd  mites  for  their  country's  glory. 
Maine's  favorite  son,  James  G.  Blain/e, 
dmlged  the  issue  by   not  voting. 

Tlie  Middle  x\^tlantic  States,  4;  votes. 
61;  yens.  33;  nays,  13;  not  voting.  15. 

Nev\  Yorl,  Represpntwtlves,  31;  yeas, 
18;  nays,  4:  i  ot  ^otinig,  9 

New  Jersey,  Representatives,  5;  yeas, 
2;  nays,  1;  not  voting,  2. 

74 


1  • 


■i* 


T^ 


WONDERLAND 


■«;l 


Pennsylvania,  Represen'tatiTe*,  24; 
yeas,  12;  nays,  8;  not  voting,  4. 

DtMaware,  Representatives.  1;  yeas,  1. 

The  foremost  Commonwealth  of  the 
Uniion  with  her  vast  commercial  interests 
stood  well  by  tli4'  sliip  of  Stnfo. 

Tlic  foremost  manufacturing  Oommon- 
woalth  with  her  interost  in  the  expansion 
of  markets  for  her  abundant  and  varietl 
metallurgical  and  other  products  of  me- 
chanical indnstrj',  with  Illinois,  cast  tihe 
largest  negative   vote.  

lyittle  Delaware,  like  all  her  sisitor 
Rtatos,  of  Florida.  K^insa.s.  Nebrasika. 
Nevada  ami  Oregon,  which  then  had  but 
one  vote  each,  cast  their  mites  on  the  side 
of  the  future  greatness  of  their  country. 

The  Middl^e  Western  States.  5;  votes, 
50;  yeas,  25;  nays,  18;  not  voting,  12; 
not  recorded.    1. 

Ohio.  Represent  a  tiveiS',  19;  yeas,  10; 
nays.  5;   not  voting.  4. 

Indiana,  Represontativt^,  11;  yeas.  5; 
nays.  3;  not  voting.  2;  Schuyler  Oolfax, 
Speaker,  not  rx'corded. 

Illinois,  ReprosentatiT-es,  14:  yeas,  3; 
nnys,  8;  not  voting.  .3. 

^liehigan.  Representatives.  6;  /eas,  4; 
not  voting.  2. 

Wwconsdn.  Repfv^sentatives,  6;  yeis,  3; 
wiys.  2:  not  voHiiir.  1. 

It  is  remarkablf^  that  sucli  great  Hom- 
monwe  ilths  a><  the  five  ^^numerated  slonld 
have  ]>eeo  pliar*^  on  nvurd  l<^<.s  credit.ibly 
than  their  enterprise  and  piibMc  spirit  in 
pitace  or  war  would  warrant.  The  n.ntiiral 
sense  of  their  own  welfare  with  the  Mis.s- 
inwiippi  Riv^r  ami  the  Great  I>akes  a 
•e<mr('(>  •if  uiiiliniitcd  •  ■ 'i'i;i';ili<Ni  ir.if- 
fic  and  wealth  for  ^hdr  own  people  would 
to  the  ivrdinary  m'na  have  jsvisccsted  a 
unanimt)us  vote  for  the  acquisition  as  a 
measun*  of  ordinary  husli)e,;a  judgmenit. 
n.nd  .vet  we  find  the  bright  (^xample  >f 
Ruch  men  as  Robert  C.  Scbenck,  AVilliam 
Mnngen  and  .IanK"«i  .V.  Onrtirld.  of  no  ef- 
fect HI  keeping  off  rh<>  n'ht4'.<e  roll  such 
iianK-s  as  ColninibuiK  Delnno.  of  Ohio, 
later  a  Sencilor  ;uh1  Cabinet  nfflfcic: 
SIhelby  M.  Cullnm.  an  aspixinir  for 
PresidecTial  btnuons,  and  .Tehn  A.  Lo- 
75 


'  1  ::; 

I    'I 

;';  -I 


fi 


I 

h 


OUR  ALASKAN 

gnn,  A  hero  of  tlie  War  of  the  Reily^'MIoni 
and  a  candidate  for  Vice  Presideat  of  the 
TTiiit(Nl  S(tiit("s,  botJi  of  Illinois. 

The  Tran»-Mississii)pi  States,  vot©i,  19; 
yie«s,  7;  nays,  4;  not  voting,  8. 

Missouri,  Representatives,  9;  yeas,  2; 
nays,  2;  not  voting,  5. 

Iowa,  R<^rc«eiiitntivoe,  6;  yraa,  1;  nays, 
2;  not  voting,  3. 

Minnesota,  Representatives,  2;  yeas,  2. 

Kansas,   Repnesentatives,   1;  yeas,   1. 

Nebraska,   Represeiitatives,  1;  yeas,  1. 

It  doe®  not  seem  possible  that  men  of 
the  public  service  and  cooceded  states- 
manship of  James  F.  Wilson,  President 
Grant's  first  choice  for  Secretary  of 
State,  and  William  B.  Allison,  a  favorite 
for  Presidential  nomination,  both  of 
Iowa,  arad  for  many  Congresses  reiDre- 
senting  that  advanced  OommonwealtOi, 
both  in  the  House  of  Representatives 
and  Senate  of  the  United  States,  and 
therefore  men  of  affairs,  should  ha.ve  oaist 
their  votes  in  oppo»itlon  to  the  Russian 
cesftion.  Their  associate  in  the  Houee 
then,  and  in  the  Senate  later,  and  Btil'y 
later  a  Cabinet  oflScer,  William  Windora, 
of  Minnesota,  recorded  his  name  in  the 
affirmative. 

The  Pacific  States,  3;  votes,  5;  yeas,  5. 

Nevada,  Representatives,  1;  yeas,  1, 

California,  R(  preaentatives,  3;  yeas,  8. 

Oregora,  Representativee,  1;  yeas,  1. 

Thi«9  solid  phalanx,  not  numerous  as  to 
numbers,  but  potential  in  prestige,  demon- 
strated that  the  Pacific  Coast  fully  r.;al- 
ized  the  national  benefits  to  accrue  from 
the  cess  ion. 

The  Southieim  Atlantic  and  Gulf  States, 
10;  votes.  53;  yeas,  9;  not  voting,  2;  not 
elected,  42. 

Maryland,  Represontatdves,  5;  yea«,  4; 
nK>t  voting,  1. 

Virginia,  8  districts;  unreconstructed. 

North  Carolinia,  8  districts;  Representa- 
tives, 5;  yeas,  4;  not  voting,  1;  not  elected, 
3. 

South  OaiTolIna,  6  districts;  unrecon- 
wtructed. 

Georgia,  7  distridts;  unreconstructed. 

Florida,  Repreaent'atives,  1;  yeas  1. 

Alabama,  7  districts;  unreconstructed. 
76 


WONDERLAND 


Missisfcippn,  5  districts;  uttreoonStPucted. 

lyoiiisiana,  4  districts;  unreconstructfid. 

Texas,  2  districts;  rnreeonstructed. 

The  Southern  Border  State®,  4;  votes, 
23;  yeas,  17;  iiiays,  1;  not  voting,  4;  not 
elected  1. 

Weist  Virginia,  Representatives,  3;  yeas, 
2;  not  voting,  1. 

Kentucky.  9  districts;  Representatives, 
8;  yeas,  G;  nay«,  1;  not  voting,  1;  not 
eleoted,  1. 

Tennewseie,  Represonltatives,  8;  yeas,  7; 
not  voting,  1. 

Arkansas,  Representatives,  3;  yeas,  2; 
not  voting.  1. 

It  has  been  the  traditional  policy  of  our 
fellow  citizens  of  the  South  so  far  as  hi*- 
tory  records,  to  favor  territorial  expan- 
sion. This  laudable  public  sentiment  ui'ny 
be  the  natural  offspring  of  the  patriotic 
spirit  and  local  interest  which  moved 
tlieni  in  our  niational  wars  with  Spain  iu 
Florida  and  Mexico  in  Texas,  and  th-e 
pdacefui  acquisition  >f  Louisiana  by  pur- 
chase from  France.  In  the  two  former 
the  security  of  the  Southern  border  was 
menaced.  In  the  latter  the  commerciaJ 
autonomy  sr.'S  welfare  of  the  vast  region 
covered  by  tlue  Miseisisippi  and  its  tribu- 
taries wais  at  stake. 

The  total  vot#  cast  for  th»  bill  appix)- 
ppiaiting  $7,200,000  for  th«  purchase  of 
Alaska  was  200,  of  that  number  113  were 
for  the  appropriation,  namely:  Republi- 
eana,  80;  Democrats,  33.  Tlie  number  op- 
posed to  the  appropriatioin  was  43,  name- 
ly: Republicans,  41;  Democrats,  2. 
Those  not  vating,  Republicans,  32;  Demo- 
crats, 12.  Of  the  87  not  recorded  in  the 
affirmative  including  the  dodgers,  73  were 
Republicans  and  14  were  Democrats.  It 
is  not  difficult  to  draw  conclusions  from 
•uch  an  object  lesson.  It  is  sui>posable 
in  the  light  of  precedent  that  had  the  un- 
reconstructed States  of  the  South  been  in 
position  to  vote,  the  great  diplomatic 
achievement  of  William  H.  Seward,  Sec- 
retary of  State,  in  securing  to  the  Union 
an  acquisition  imperial  in  extent  and  un- 
exploited  wealth  would  have  been  ratified 
by  an  even  moire  overwhelmittg  support 

77 


.1 


)'I4 


;      1i|l 


■i  '11 


ll 


: 


i 


'  .1 


OVB  ALA8KAN 

»{  the  Repreientfttive*  of  the  aovemjpn 
people  of  the  whole  Union. 

The  following  table  will  show  at  a 
glance  the  attitude  of  the  States  as  well 
ais  of  polLtif^al  partieg  toward  this  great 
event  in  the  munifest  destiny  of  the 
United  State*. 

Not 
Ye«(i.    Xuys.  Votlngr 
State.                R.  D.  B.  D.  It.  D.  To  al 
Aliabama,*  -    -      -  


Arkamsas,    2   .  . 

Oalifomia,     1     2 

Connecticut 1     2 

Delaware,     1 

Florida, 1 

Georgia,*    

Illinois,    1     2 

Indiaim,     4     1 

Iowa,   1   .  . 

Kausas, 1   .  . 

Kentucky, (5 

Ijouiaiana,     * 

Maine,     

Maryland 1     3 

Massachusetts,  .  .     D  .  . 

Michigan 4   .  . 

Mlnmnsota 2   .  . 

Mi«8i.s8ippi,* 

Missouri 2   .  . 

Nebraska,    1   .  . 

Nevada,     1   .  . 

New  Hampshire,      .  .    .  . 

N»w  Jersey, 2 

New  York,   12     6 


8 
3 


2 

1 
4 


1 
2 
4 
1 

4 


North.  Carolina.   .      4 

Ohio,    9     1     41 

Oregon,    1 

Pennsylvania,     .  .     8     4     8. 

Rhode  Island,    .  .     2 

South  Carolina,* 

Tennessee,     6     1    .  .    .      1 

Tezas>  * 

Vermont,     3 

Virginia,* 

West  Virginiia,  .  .     2 1 

Wisconsin,    2     1     2  .     1 


3 
3 
4 
1 
1 


14 

a  10 

6 

1 

8 


o 
5 
10 
6 
2 


2     2 


9 
1 
1 
8 
5 

31 
5 

19 
1 

24 
2 


8 


8 

6 


Total,    80  33  41  2  32  12  200 

*Unreconfltmcted. 

a  S«huyler  Colfax,  Speaker,  not  i-eoord- 


ed. 


>wo«*iniHiUi 


wondebla:sd 


I! 


Of  the  original  thirteen  States,  ten 
Virginia,  South  Carolina  and  Georgia  be- 
ing un represented,  cast  yt^oa,  55;  nays,  16; 
not  voting,  19. 

In  the  Senate,  the  ti'^aty  having  been 
ratified  by  tliat  Iwdy  by  the  requisite  two- 
thirds  vote,  in  executive  seaaion  acting 
in  its  constitutional  advisory  capacity 
with  the  Executive  department  of  the 
Goverament,  the  discutusion  of  the  House 
bill  was  naturally  very  brief. 

Charlefi  Sumner,  of  Ma£i»achu»etts, 
chairman  of  the  Commiittee  on  Foreign 
ReFations,  had  charge  of  the  treaty  and 
made  a  speech  in  its  support  which  was 
not  only  a  most  able  and  exhaustive  ef- 
fort, but  conclusively  disproved  the  alle- 
gaition  of  Representaitive  Washburn,  of 
LaCross,  Wisconsin,  tliat  nothing  was 
known  of  the  region  except  possibly  by 
Mr.  Washburn  himself.  Upon  the  receipt 
of  the  bill  from  the  House,  it  was  in  the 
us  al  routine  referred;  reported  back  to 
the  Senate  with  a  snbstitute,  went  back 
to  the  House,  was  disagreed  to;  went  to 
conference;  was  adjusted  after  mutual 
concessions  and  the  conference  report  was 
concurred  in  by  the  Houses. 

Thence  it  went  to  the  President,  by 
whom  it  w'as  promptly  approved.  The 
money  was  then  paid  in  the  Treasury  De- 
piartment  and  the  first  chapter  in  the 
great  intern  ait  ional  transaction  closed. 
The  wonder  of  the  world  seems  destined 
to  view  w'hat  follows. 


n 


0 


Alaskan  DiscovefVi 


F 


OurHlasb  Wonderland 


'  ifi 


LETTER  NUMBER  \II. 


^' 


A  Story  of  the  Frigid  Zone. 


From  the    Amorons  Pair  on  the 
Euphrates  to  the  Fierce  War- 
riors of  the  Amoor. 


MID-OCEAN  GRAVE  OP  VITUS   BERING 


The  Croakera  Kefruln  and  a  Stateaman's 
Phlloaopliy. 


There  were  no  questions  of  expediency 
nor  of  physical  or  atrategic  advantages  to 
accrue  from  the  Ruasian-Ajnerican  ces- 
sion which  had  not  received  the  closest 
scrutiny  and  investigation  from  William 
H,  Seward  before  he  entered  into  nego- 
tiations. And  yet  from  the  tempest  of  the 
contemporary  croakers  it  might  have  been 
concluded  that  the  treaty  was  the  merest 
haphazard  affair,  entered  into  to 
strengthen  the  tinanoial  condition  of  the 
Russian  excliequer  and  to  gratify  a  cer- 
tain degree  of  sentimentalism  which  had 
sprung  up  between  the  two  naitions. 

It  was  even  hinted  that  Mr.  Seward, 
having  become  entangled  in  the  meshes 
of  "my  policy,"  propoimded  by  President 
Johnson,  having  thereby  lost  many  of  the 
politiaal  friendSiips  of  Ji  lifetime,  resort- 
ed to  this  bold  stroke  of  diplomacy  to  di- 
vert pubiic  opinion  and  retire  from  public 
81 


n 


\i 


b  "isS 


T 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1.0    !fi 


2.5 


I.I 


us   II 20 


1.8 


1.25 


1.4 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


1.6 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


i/l 


OUR  ALASKAN 


station  with  a  name  foremost  among  the 
etotesmen  of  his  day. 

There  were  eroaJkeis  in  the  Fortieth 
Congress  n»  there  had  been  in  Washing- 
ton's day  and  ever  since,  and  always 
will  be.  The  "chief  croaker"  as  he  was 
termed  in  cabinet  circles,  at  the  time  to 
which  I  refer,  was  General  Oadwallader 
O.  Washburn,  who  occupied  a  segment 
of  that  family  circle  in  that  Congress. 
The  General,  a  m«.n  of  ponderous  build, 
had  been  in  Grant's  army  and  reached  the 
grade  of  Major  Greneral,  although  no 
si>ecifications  are  given  as  to  why  so  high 
a  rank.  His  burden  of  complaint,  al- 
though he  dodged  the  vote  on  the  passage 
of  tht  bill,  H.  R.  1096,  was  that  the  treaty 
had  been  negotiaited  in  secret  and  was  a 
surpriise  to  him  and  to  the  whole  country. 
"Me  and  the  whole  country,"  was  about 
the  size  of  the  doughty  General's  meas- 
ure of  his  relation  to  public  affairs. 

Secretary  Seward,  doubtless  having  in 
mind  one  of  the  Wisconsin  Washburn's 
diatriibes,  one  day  remarked  in  his  oft 
practical  diplomatic  irouy:  "Friend  Wash- 
burn seems  to  think  tiiat  treaties  are  ne- 
gotiated with  trumpets  also,  and 
shawms,"  laughingly  adding,  "and  with 
loud  instruments  which  make  a  noise." 

Upon  one  occasion  referring  to  the 
frigid  girdle  of  mother  earth's  waist  Ir. 
Seward  again  demonstrated  the  profundi- 
ty and  detail  of  his  .esearch,  at  this  time, 
ettinologically  cpeaking  with  reference 
to  Alaskan  latitudes.  He  grew  quite 
varied  and  eloquent  in  showing  what 
these  same  regions  in  Europe  and  Asia 
had  done  for  the  human  family  and  pro- 
gress. 

The  accepted  idea  of  the  geneological 
accent  of  man  halts  at  the  primitive  pair 
supposed  to  have  had  their  Edenic  ex- 
periences in  the  Valley  of  the  Euphrates, 
about  34  degrees  north,  in  latitude  with 
the  north  coast  of  Africa,  Wilmington, 
North  Carolina,  and  Los  Angeles,  Cali- 
fornia. 

Another  popularly  accepted  event,  the 
racial  distribution  of  man,  took  blace 
from  the  grounded  ark  on  Ararat's  iT.OOO- 

82 


} 


WOyOEBLAND 

foot  summit  ou  the  line  of  latitude  40  de- 
grees north,  which  pflJ9sing  through  the 
Bay  of  Naples,  takes  in  PWladelphia  on 
the  Atlantic  amd  Cape  Mendicino,  Califor- 
nia, on  the  Pacific  littorals,  in  its  endr- 
eling  tour  of  the  globe. 

Accepting  these  vague  narrations  as 
every  day  facts,  it  will  possibly  shake 
such  popular  teachings  to  assert  that 
Alaskan  latitudes  of  the  same  mundane 
sphere  have  fumislied  the  progenitors  of 
some  of  the  best  and  some  of  the  fiercest 
tjT)e»  of  the  humian  family. 

It  was  in  the  Siberian  regions  of  the 
northeastern  corner  of  Asia,  along  the 
■■-Kkhotsk  Sea,  and  the  Kamtchiatkan  pen- 
insula, the  eastern  shore  of  that  sea  being 
our  own  Alaskan  littoral,  whence  issued 
the  hordes  of  warlike  Mongols  which, 
under  Jenghis  Khan  Batu  and  Tamer- 
lane reared  an  empire  stretcihing  from 
the  Amoor  to  the  Danube  and  the  Arctic 
to  the  Indian  Ocean. 

The  irruptions  of  the  Scythians  from 
the  frigid  regions  of  Europe  and  Asia  long 
before  the  age  of  Christendom,  into  milder 
zones,  oft  humbled  and  finally  destroyed 
Rome'  herself. 

Thie  Norsemen  of  Scandinavia,  the  pro- 
genitors of  men  like  Gustavus  Vasa  and 
G-u»tavus'  Ado'.phus  wrested  Normandy 
from  France  and  placed  one  of  their  Dukes 
upon  the  throne  of  England.  The  same 
race  sent  its  daring  vikings  into  the 
waiters  of  North  America  five  centuree  be- 
fore Coluflnbuis  and  sailed  from  Labr.irior 
to  Florida.  That  no  settlements  were 
made  signifies  nothing.  After  Columbus 
over  a  century  elapsed  before  a  permanent 
foothold  was  made  on  the  main  land, 
even  in  an  age  of  high  civilization  and 
the  exploring  fad  of  European  moamrchs. 
The  Norsemen  op.Tne  in  search  of  adven- 
ture. The  Spaniards  followed  Colum- 
bus for  rapine  and  accomplished  nothing 
but  ruin  and  crime  wherever  they  stayed 
their  blighting  hand.  It  was  the  An^Io- 
Saxon  w'ho  came  for  colonization  and 
civilization. 

A  people  living  beyond  the  north  wind 
was  the  theme  of  prose  and  poesy  from 

83 


li 


I  il 


~J 


OUR  ALASKAN 


li 


the  highest  antiquity.  The  Epics  of 
Homer  descant  upon  inlha^bitants  beyond 
the  liorth  wind,  who  enjoyed  a  mild 
climate,  a  sort  of  unconscious  mythical 
reference  to  the  far  end  of  a  northwest 
passage,  and  who  experienced  1  oqO  years' 
duration  of  life. 

Tlie  orac'e  of  Deloe  wrougiht  unto 
Greek  legends  the  mythical  beings  of  the 
icy  North.  Hecataeus  of  Abdera,  a  his- 
toriaiQ  of  the  age  of  the  conquering  Alex- 
ander, wrote  upon  the  Hyperlwreans. 
Later  Virgil  and  Horace,  in  the  days  of 
Pompey,  Ora«sus  and  Ceaser,  spoke  of 
the  Hyperborei  Campi. 

These  were  Alaskan  latitudes,  a  verita- 
ble land  of  romance  exceeding  twenty- 
nine  centuries  ago  as  it  does  now  any 
other  portion  of  this  mundane  sphere  in 
thrilling  interest. 

The  fabled  glittering  opulence  of  the 
orioait  aroused  buiman  avarice.  The  science 
of  navigaition  hiad  been  sufficiently  devel- 
oped to  U'ndel^si^alnd  the  proximity  of  these 
Eastern  treasures  by  a  route  less  cir- 
cuitous than  had  been  marked  out  by  the 
Portugese  pioneers  of  maritime  discov- 
ery. The  search  became  the  objective 
point  of  the  most  costly  maritime  ven- 
tures. 

Pardoning  apparently  irrelevant  par- 
ticulars but  as  parallel  to  the  mysterious 
future  of  our  Alaskan  posseecdons,  it  may 
be  mentioned  that  as  early  as  1585  the 
"Fellowship  for  the  discovery  of  the 
northwest  passage"  was  formed  in  Lon- 
don. The  Anglo-Saxon  greed  of  oriental 
riches  was  thus  speedily  aroused. 

For  neariy  four  centuries  this  combat 
with  the  forces  of  nature  had  been  kept 
up  throug'h  human  skill,  endurance  and 
money,  until  Sir  John  Fra>nklin  and  hJs 
companions  in  1845  sailed  down  Peet 
and  Vic':oTia  Strait*,  thus  achieving  the 
discover  V  of  the  "northwest  passag*." 

The  northeast  passage,  leas  frequently 
asserted,  was  attempted  as  early  as  1553, 
but  was  only  successfully  reached  in  1850 
by  an  English  expedition  in  search  of 
Pranklin.  discovering  Baring's  Xskuid, 
Prince  Albert  land,  and  the  connecting 
strait  named  Prince  of  Wales,  which 
84 


. 


"I'^rfh-iilPi*!  ^M#-lh 


WONDERLAiSD 


completed  the  connection  between  the 
two  great  ocean*. 

A  more  successful  accompliBhnient  of 
the  northeast  passage  waa  by  the  Nor- 
denskjold  expedition  of  1878-9,  from  the 
Atlaintic  to  the  Piicific.  starting  at  the 
Yenesi  August  6th,  1878,  passing  through 
Behring  Straits  July  18th,  1879,  and 
reaching  Japan  September  2d,  1879. 

It  is  one  of  the  probabilities  that  the 
rush  of  population  and  the  arts  and  in- 
dustries of  established  ciyilization  into 
Alaska  in  the  immediate  future  will 
stimulate  a  spirit  of  exploration  which 
may  yet  solre  the  mystery  of  a  summer 
northwestern  water  communication  be- 
tween the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans. 

It  is  known  that  there  exists  a  water 
route  starting  at  New  York,  sailing  to 
Hudson  Straits  20  degrees,  a  distance  of 
about  1,400  miles,  thence  through  Fox 
Chanel  to  the  Gulf  of  Boothia  in  latitude 
70  degress,  thence  into  Victoria  Strait 
69  degrees,  traversed  by  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin in  1845,  thence  through  the  broad 
channel  which  enters  the  Arctic  Ocean 
at  Oape  Bathurst  and  thence  30  degrees 
in  narrowing  longitudes  to  Point  Barrow, 
the  American  Arctic  whaling  and  trading 
station. 

The  discovery  and  exploration  of  his 
distant  Eaistem  possessions  was  a  i)et  di- 
version of  thait  great  monarch,  Peter  the 
Great,  of  Russia.  During  his  visit  to 
England  and  Holland  in  1097,  in  search 
of  Western  ideas  of  civilization,  the  mari- 
time nations  were  still  sadly  tapping  their 
revenues  in  the  race  for  empire  in  undis- 
covered rogionis.  A  conspiracy  of  the 
Sitrelitz,  the  Imperial  guard,  the  following 
year,  compelUed  Peter's  return  to  Mos- 
cow. Having  completely  wiped  out  this 
often  seditious  body  of  soldiery,  beheading 
many  with  his  own  band,  he  b«>gan  his 
wonr'orful  career  of  dynastic,  military  and 
civic  reforms. 

In  1702  he  laid  the  foimdation  more 
completely  of  modem  Russian  greatness 
by  the  building  of  a  new  capital  on  the 
Neva,  which  beajis  his  name.  About  20 
miles  distant  h©  reared  great  fortifica/tiooa 
and  a  harbor  at  Oronstadt  on  an  arm  of 
86 


1 1 


OUR  ALABKAN 

the  Gtilf  of  Finland,  which  he  called  his 
look-out  upon  EJuTope. 

In  the  midst  of  these  tolls  of  state  and 
war  his  imperial  curiosity  was  aroused  by 
extended  dominion  alon«  the  distant 
shores  of  thie  Pacific.  The  Siberian  pos- 
sessioms  had  been  added  to  the  Imperial 
dominion  nearly  two  and  a  half  centuries. 
The  house  of  Ruric,  which  had  reigned 
for  over  700  years,  then  still  sat  upon  the 
throne. 

The  new  ruling  house  of  Romanoff  had 
adde<i  to  the  Empire  the  complete  subju- 
gation of  the  ranges  of  the  Cossacl'-s. 

It  was  now  the  groat  Peter's  wish 
to  solve  the  geographical  problem,  then 
still  a  mystery,  whether  Asia  and  Ameri- 
ca were  separated  by  an  ocean  or  one 
ma:$«  of  land,  thie  same  &■»  Asia  and  Eu- 
rope. With  his  customary  energy  he  in- 
dicted with  his  own  hand  the  instructions 
under  which  the  explorations  should  he 
made.  He  then,  ordered  has  principal  ad- 
miral to  see  them  carried  out. 

In  1725  the  death  of  the  great  Emperor 
supervened,  but  with  the  fidelity  of  her 
womanly  heart,  his  Empress  widow, 
Catherine,  at  once  went  on  with  his  pro- 
ject. The  expedition  was  organized.  "Vitus 
Bering,  a  Dane,  was  made  its  commander. 
In  February  of  the  same  year  Bering  set 
forth  on  his  land  jouniey  of  thousands  of 
miles  for  the  other  side  of  the  Oonrtinent. 
Thence  from  the  Kamtchatkan  shore  he 
sailed  in  1728  in  a  little  vessel  of  his  own 
construction,  which  he  called  the  Gabriel. 
His  first  happy  discovery,  St.  Lawrence 
Island,  stood  in  the  very  pathway  to  the 
unknown  channel  which  separated  the 
two  hemispheres.  Sailing  northward  he 
swept  thtrough  the  straits  which  now  bear 
his  name  in  6B  de»vrees  and  following  the 
northeasterly  trend  of  the  coast  to  latitude 
f»7  degrees  30  mimites.  sailed  within  the 
Arctic  circle.  Satisfied  thait  the  two  ron- 
Hnemts  were  separated,  he  retnrnied.  Hav- 
ing renewed  his  explorations  the  following 
year,  he  failed  to  add  anything  to  hia  first 
attempt  and  returned  to  St.  Petersburg  in 
1730,  after  an  absence  of  five  years. 

86 


W^^ 


WONDERLAlfD 

In  1732,  durlni?  the  reign  of  Anne, 
Duiche«is  of  Oourland,  who  was  placed  up- 
on the  throne  of  the  deposed  Romanoff 
Peter  II,  Bering  was  sent  forth  a  second 
time,  on  the  same  mission.  It  wa«  the 
summer  month  of  June,  1741,  liowever, 
befoi'e  he  sailed  with  his  two  vesels  into 
the  mysterious  depths  of  the  unliuown  sea 
which  now  bears  his  name. 

In  36  days  lie  anchored  under  the 
shadow  of  Mount  St,  Elins,  which  stuiLds 
an  eternaJ  landmark  to  naTigators  of  the 
saime  American  seas  to-day.  Shirikow, 
commanding  the  sister  vessel,  templed  by 
the  fierce  warfare  of  the  elements,  hasten- 
ed homeward,  and  safely  anchored  in  the 
calm  watei-s  of  a  Kamteiiatkan  covo.  The 
brave  Bering  cast  about  at  the  mercy  of 
the  wild  waves  of  a  wintry  sea,  himself 
and  crew  aflBicted  with  scurvy,  after  sev- 
enteen days  found  his  temposrt- tossed  vo!*- 
sel  cast  upon  an  unknown  island  in  that 
distant  sea.  Its  brave  commander  suc- 
cumbed to  the  exhaustion  of  overtried  en- 
durance and  his  soul  took  its  flight  from 
that  mid-sea  isle  of  desolation  and  death 
on  the  8th  day  of  December,  in  the  year 
1741. 

Midway  twixt  Attn,  the  remotest  Asia 
ward  isle  of  the  Alutian  chain  under  the 
jurisdiction  of  the  United  Staes  and  the 
shores  of  Kamtchatka  ini  the  famous  lati- 
tude 54-40,  will  be  seen  by  the  student 
of  geography,  upon  his  chart  of  the  Pacific 
a  group  of  specks  known  from  any  othei* 
specks  in  the  watery  waste  around,  as  the 
Comandorski  Isles.  The  largest  of  these 
ruling  like  a  mighlty  sentinel  in  the  midst 
of  the  storm-driven  seas  which  gave  fame 
to  Vitus  Bering,  became  his  grave,  and  to- 
day, bearing  his  name,  stands  a  lasting 
monument  to  his  courti^e,  daring  and 
skill.  Around  his  island  tomb  lave  the 
waters  which  still  also  bear  his  name,  and 
to  the  northward  the  slender  thread  of 
water  wihich  unite  the  Pacific  and  the  Arc- 
tic Oceans  adds  still  more  honors  to  his 
name  and  discoveries. 


87 


ft-vJ. 


Maskan  Cartopphf. 


i'.' 


I 


'  I 


P5 


-"    & 


'i 


•J. 


3 
♦^ 
It. 

u 


u 


•X. 


LETTER  NUMBER  VIII. 


Official  Delineation  of  Oar  Sab- 
arctic  and  Arctic  Possessions, 

Wliere  Distances  are  Measured  by 

Degrees  of  Longitude  andLati- 

tnde  Instead  of  by  Miles. 


A  Scion  of  Nobility  Looking  for  Indian 
tiaants,  Finds  a  Metropolis. 


Figures    for   Gold   Hunters   to   8tlok    In 
Tbclr  Cat' a. 


When  we  Cv>utemplate  the  fatigues 
and  dangers  of  waiter  and  land  which 
beset  the  California  pioneers  of  1849-50 
and  contrast  their  toils,  privations  and 
sacrifices  of  health  and  life  to  disease, 
storm  and  tomahawk,  with  the  humane 
efforts  being  made  by  the  Grovernment 
of  the  United  States,  and  the  projects 
in  operation  or  proposed  by  the  enterpris- 
ing commercial  spirit  of  the  age  for  the 
convenience  of  the  Alaskan  and  Klondike 
gold  hunters  of  1897-98,  we  have  no  dif- 
ficulty in  reaching  the  conclusion  that 
civilization,  wealth  and  humanity  have 
advanced  substanitially  in  that  large  share 
of  the  earth's  surface  which  belongs  to 
the  old  "thirteen"  of  1776  and  the  added 
galaxy  of  thirty-two  oommonwealtha  of 

89 


"V 


ssusm'       *.■ 


OVR  ALASKAN 


1898,  tmder  tho  appellation,  Th«  United 
States  of  America, 

Aa  900U  as  the  discovery  of  gold  across 
the  Alaskan  bordw — louf^iiude  of  141 
degrees  west,  on  foreign  soil  became  an 
assured  realization  in  the  golden  evidences 
brought  back  by  the  piooieei's,  the  Gov- 
eroment  at  Washington  sent  out  its 
agents  in  search  of  facets  and  data  to 
meet  anv  emergency  of  international  re- 
lations or  domestic  administration  which 
might  arise. 

The  most  rea'istic  labom  of  the  Gov- 
ernment in  reducing  to  a  minimum,  the 
mysteries  of  access  to  the  golden  region 
in  that  remote  comer  of  this  hemisphere 
has  been  accomplished  by  the  United 
States  Coast  and  Gwdetic  Survey  under 
tho  direction  of  W.  W.  DuflBeld,  superiia- 
lendent,  verified  by  O.  H.  Tittmann,  as- 
sistant in  charge  of  the  offif'o,  and  H.  Q. 
O.  Colby  and  E.  D.  Taussig,  Ueutimant 
commanders  U.  S.  N.,  hydrgraphie  in- 
si)ector8  in  a  most  interesting  and  vaJua- 
ble  aeries  of  charts. 

Tlie  Englishman,  cooped  up  in  his  eight- 
by-ten  isles,  finds  his  head  all  awnirl 
when  he  steps  ashore  in  the  United 
States  and  begins  bis  strugg'Je  with  some 
of  the  magnitudes  upon  which  everything 
American  from  the  hands  of  nature  or 
man  is  scaled. 

Not  many  years  ago  a  party  of  brisk 
young  beef-eaters,  as  the  TranB-Atlantic 
steamer  was  approaching  the  American 
shores,  informed  the  writer  that  "they 
woiUd  take  it  a  great  honor  if  he  would 
join  them  in  a  day's  laik  around  New 
York  City  to  take  a  sight  at  the  savage 
Indians."  They  also  proffered  all  need- 
ed conveyances  and  a  "neat  lunch  with 
beer,  if  they  haave  it,"  so  that  they 
might  be  out  all'  day  seeing  these  interest- 
ing sights.  One  of  the  party  vouchisafed 
the  information  that  he  always  took  a 
deep  interest  in  the  American  Indians. 
He  intended  when  he  got  back  to  old 
Bngisnd  to  write  a  book  about  America, 
and  wished  to  introduce  a  chapter  about 
the  beastly  savages  which  thi»y  write  so 
much  about  in  histories  of  the  States. 

When,  informed  that  it  would  take 
90 


I 


WONDERLAND 

three  or  four  6a.ym  by  ateam  railroad  t* 
■rot  a  »ijfht  of  t'Vf  n  a  "tame"  Indian,  they 
Joined  in  ehoru»: 

"You  Americans  g^-t  happy  when  you 
can  guy  a-n  Englishman  about  America." 
A  few  aays  later,  on  the  streets  of  New 
Yorlc,  one  of  th^Mse  same  beef-eaters 
oaJling  himaelf  the  son  of  a  Briti«h  noble- 
man, which  number  not  stated,  supple- 
mented hin  aboriginal  stupidity  on  Amer- 
ican aflfairf  •  t'his,  don't  you  Icnow,  is 
a  blasted  laru'e  country.  This  here  ciiy 
of  N'-'v  Yorli,  he  added,  with  the  patron- 
izing manner  of  a  flunltey,  "i»  a  big  town. 
Been  wa'Jking  all  day  and  not  strucic  the 
end  of  it.  Not  as  big  as  I^onnon,  but 
duni founded  big,  all  the  8anu>." 

"You  will  find  it  big  enough.  But  how 
about  your  lark  out  into  the  Indian  coun- 
try around  New  York?" 

"Don't  mention  it.  Don't  mention  it, 
my  dear  boy.  "^That's  done  for,  you 
know.  Too  much  out  of  town,  you  w'e." 
Although  I  wish  to  make  no  compari- 
Boiiis,  it  might  almost  b<>  said  that  the 
ideas  of  the  average  citizen  of  the  United 
States,  with  his  familiarity  with  square 
miles  of  area  by  the  millions  and  straight 
milies  heavenward,  interoeeanward,  ^ilf- 
ward  or  lakeward,  by  road,  rail  or  river, 
by  the  thousands,  all  within  American 
jurisdiction,  can  hardly  realize  the  enor- 
mous extent  of  these  A'^askan  terrestrial 
magnitudes  until  he  taki>s  of  them  an 
"official"  cartographic  view.     , 

Where  we  have  counted  intervening 
HlMiees  by  the  old-fashioned  methods  of 
uieo'Puremenits  laid  down  by  statutes  in 
feet,  y«irds,  rwls,  poles  or  perches  and 
acres  or  miles  in  the  sturdy  old  United 
States  in  new-born  Alaska  these  ele- 
mentary systems  of  8ui>erficial  notaition 
cease  and  degrees  of  longitude  ai]d  de- 
grees of  latitude  take  their  place,  whether 
cut  off  in  units  of  geographical  of  nauLi- 
oal  lenigtths  of  60  miles  at  sea  or  by  act  of 
Congress  in  statute  lengths  of  60Vi  miles 
on  land. 

In  a  genral  way  the  superficial  area  of 

Alaska  577,390  squaire  miles  is  equal  to 

the  combined  domain  of  the  Gorman  and 

Austro-Huugairian  Empires  and  France. 

91 


Hm 


n 


!■•  i 

(I 

i 


^IF 


i  j 


OVR  ALASKAN 

It  has  26,000  miles  of  »ea  coaist  or  nearly 
two  aaid  one-half  times  the  sea  coast  of  all 
the  remaining  portions  of  the  United 
States. 

It  cover*  seventeen  degrees  of  latitude 
from  54  degrees  40  minutes  the  southei-u- 
most  point  of  Prince  of  Wales  Island  to 
about  73  degrees  22  minutes  on  the 
shjores  of  the  Polar  Ocean,  about  1,200 
mUes  in  a  geodetic  line  due  north.  lis 
boumdaries  fringe  the  waters  which  roll 
in  icy  folds  toward  the  northern  axis  of 
the  earth,  where  all  longitudes  unite  on 
the  point  of  90  degrees.  The  northern,  pole 
itself  lies  within  18  degrees  and  a  frac- 
tion of  Alaskan  Siliores. 

In  westing  it  extends  from  longitude  130 
degi-ess  along    Portland  chiann+ii,  one  of 
the  beautiful  inland   water  ways  of  the 
coast,  CO  the  56  degrees  of  latitude.  Thence 
it  follows  the  trend  of  the  ijiuumits  of  the 
mountains  ten  marine  leagues,  or  about 
30  miles  inland  and  parallel  to  the  wind- 
ings of     the  coast     forming     the  line  of 
demarcation  between  Amei-ica  and  present 
British  soils  until  it  reaches  that  towering 
corner-sftone  of  present  American  Empire 
in  the  northwestern  coi-ner  of  the  Western 
hemisphere,  Mount  St.  Ellas,  rearing  18,- 
010  feet  heavenward  at  longitude  141  de- 
grees.    Thence  climbing  northwaird  over 
the    curva>tui-e  of     the  bosom  of  Mother 
Earth  along  this  degree  in  the  aiscending 
number  of  latitude  at  62  degrees,  it  ci-oscsee 
the  White  River  tributary  to  the  Yukon 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Donjel.    A  little  be- 
yond 63  degrees     the     international  lino 
crosses  the  Ladue  before  it  reaches    the 
White  River,  which  a  short  distance  be- 
yond empties  ics  waters  into  the  Yukon  at 
those  wonders  of  Nature,  the  Upi)ex  Ram- 
parts. 

At  latitude  64  it  ci'osees  Sixty-mile 
Greek  but  fifty  miles  due  east  of  which, 
between  longitudes  139  and  140  we  enter 
the  heaii't  of  the  region  which  now  re- 
■ouuds  through  the  world  with  the  magic 
cry  of  gold  and  Klondike. 

In  tarrying  here  we  find  Dawson  on  the 
northi  bank  of  the  Klondike  River  at  its 
confluence  with  the  Yukon.    We  also  find 
92 


I, 


UL 


WONDERLAND 


the  gold-bearinig  tributary  creeks  all 
from  the  south  as  Too  Much  Gold,  Gold 
Boittom.  with  its  branches;  Hunker  and 
Last  Chance,  then  Beair  and  Bonan- 
za creeks  with  several  minor  tributaries. 

Retuminij?  to  the  internaitional  longitude 
about  64-40,  we  cross  Forty-Mile  Creek, 
which  enter  the  Yukon  14  miles  east  of  the 
American  line  on  British  soil,  with  Forty- 
Mile  on  the  south  and  and  Cudahay  on 
the  north  side  of  its  junction.  Thence 
northwiard  the  international  line  crosses 
the  Yukon.  At  this  point  we  find  the 
river  ontvfourth  mile  wide,  with  a  cur- 
rent in  mid-stream  two  to  three  miles  per 
honr. 

Just  beyond,  tm  the  American  side  at 
the  mouth  of  Mission  Creek,  is  Belle  Isle. 

In  latitude*  65  degrees  the  Tacoudu 
River  enters.  From  this  point  the  Yukon 
cleaves  the  international  line  and  pursues 
the  remainder  of  its  course  through 
American  territory,  taking  in  a  northeast- 
erly direction  Fort  Yukon  in  the  forks  of 
the  Yukon  end  the  Porcupine  rivers  on 
the  Arctic  circle  in  latitude  66  degrees  31 
miinntes,  and  thence  southwesterly  until 
it  ennipties  its  volume  of  suib-Arctic  and 
Arctic  drainag-e  into  Bering  Sea.  There 
falling  back  to  the  same  latitude  63  at 
which  it  began  under  its  geo^jraphical 
name  at  the  junction  of  the  Lewis  and 
Pelly  Rivers  at  the  old  ruined  Hudson 
Bay  Company,  a'f  Fort  Selkirk. 

Thence  pursuing  the  international  line 
It  intersects  the  Porcupine  River  in  lati- 
tude 67  degress  "iO  minutes,  at  Rampnrt 
Ho,  within  the  Arctic  circle  and  four  de- 
grees ea«t  of  its  <-i>nfluence  with  the  Y'nkon 
Thence  inteirseirit  ing  Tanzies  Peak  sur- 
mounting  Davidson's  Range  7,000  feet 
high  in  latitude  (>0  degrees,  we  debouch 
upon  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Ocean  at 
Demarcation  Point  ii  60-30.  having  tra- 
versed ten  degrees  of  latitude. 

In  longitude  fnrim  130  degrees  these  vast 
possctssionis  swoop  westward  to  a  limit  de- 
fined as  a  point  on  rhe  parallel  of  65  de- 
grees ""0  minutes  noith  at  its  intersection 
by  the  meridian  which  passes  midway  be- 
tween the  iBilends  of  Krusenstern  or  Inga- 

93 


OUR  ALASKAN 

look  and  the  islands  of  RatmanofE  or 
Nooaarbook  in  the  middle  of  Bering 
Straits  between  the  continents  of  America 
amd  Ajsria  and  proceeds  due  north  without 
limitation  into  the  Fxozen  Ocean.  Thus 
aill  lands,  whether  ioe-capped  and  only  fit 
for  naming  on  nautical  charts  or  geo- 
graphical maps,  coming  within  this  limit 
to  the  point  wihiere  longitudes  141  and  169 
degrees  at  90  degrees  unite  at  the  Northern 
Polar  axis  of  the  globe  will  be  under  the 
juirisdicttion  of  the  United  States.  Then 
beginning  at  the  same  initial  point  in  Ber- 
ing Straits  midway  between  the  Capes 
Prince  Wales  on  the  western  and  Nuni- 
amo  on  the  eaatern  hemispheres  crosses 
the  Bering  Sea  in  a  nearly  southiwesterly 
couiFJse,  passing  midway  between  Caipe 
Ohibukak,  the  northwest  point  of  the  isl- 
and of  St.  Lawrence  amd  the  southeast 
point  of  Ctepe  Chonkotski,  on  the  main 
land  of  AiSia.  In  Baatern  Siberia  to  the 
meiridian  of  172  degrees  longitude  west, 
Thence  continuing  we  cross  the  watery 
solitudies  in  a  southwesterly  direction, 
paj3isiing  midway  hetwe^  the  Island  of 
Attn,  the  onpost  of  the  oceanic  insular 
juriediction  of  the  United  States  and  Cop- 
per Island  of  the  Comandoi'ski  group, 
where  the  bones  of  Vitus  Bering  rest,  in 
the  Northern' Pacific  Ocean  to  the  meridian 
of  10  degrees  east  longitude.  This  in 
eludes  the  Aleutian  chain  of  islands  which 
juit  up  in  mid-ocean  like  steppinig-stonea 
from  the  western  extremity  of  the  Alas- 
kan Peninsula  through.  25  degrees  of 
longitude  we«tw^ni'd  to  within  10  degrees 
of  the  Russian  Kamtchatkan  coast  of 
Afria,  a  disitance  of  but  300  miles  in  the 
latitude  54  degrees. 

These  lineis  of  treaty  stipulation  also 
have  a  geographical  import  m  ai-ranging 
between  the  two  most  powerful  nations  on 
the  glolje  the  scientific  line  of  oceanic 
demarcation  between  tihe  Western  and  the 
Eastern  hemi«pih«*re»,  the  Aineriean  and 
Asiatic  continents  and  the  American  and 
Ruflisian  xiossessionsi  on  the  Pnrific. 

It  is  also  interesting  to  note  the  follow- 
ing distances  taken  from  the  "Route 
Map"  issued   (September,   1897,)  by  the 

94 


'  I 


^^_l_|||||||||| 


WONDERLAND 


United  States  Coast  mid  Geodetic  Sur- 
vey from  Juneiau,  tlie  ataiting  point,  for 
thie  Klondike  gold  regions,  inland  on 
American  territory,  in  latitude  about  58 
degrees,  longitude  134  west,  to  Porcupine 
River,  also  on  American  aoil  in  latitude 
67  at  longitude  143  degrees. 

Distances  from  Juneau  to  thie  mouth  of 
Porcupine  River  at  Fort  YuJson  in 
statute  miles. 

Via  OMlkoot  Pass— 

Juneau  to  Dyea 118 

Dyea  to  CMlkoot  Pass,   13 

Ohilkoot  Pass  to  head  of  L/ake  Jjh- 

barge, 130 

Total, "261 

Via  White  Pass— 

Juneau  to  Sbagway  River, 114 

Sbagway  River  to  White  Pa»»,  ....  18 
White  Pass  to  head  of  Lake  Labarge,  129 

Total 281 

In  Chilkoot  Paw  near  Lake  Linderman 
and  in  White  Paiss  between  Summit  and 
Bernard  Lakes  the  mountain  Suimmit  line 
of  demarcatibn  between  American  and 
Britisih  territory  at  59-40  latitude  passe* 
at  an  elevation  of  about  4,000  feet.  From 
that  point  the  infa.tu'ated  wayfarer  i»  on 
Briti8ih>  soil  until  he  passe®  Forty  Mile 
and  Oudahay  at  the  mouth  of  Forty  Mile 
Creek  and  reaches  latitude  about  64-40. 
Juneau  lartitude  58-20  degrees,  to  head  of 
Lake  Labarge,  by  way  of  Chilkooit,  261 
Juneau,  lartitude  58-20  degrees,  to  head 
of  Lake  Labarge,     by     way  of  White 

Pass,  latitude  61  degrees,   261 

Head  of  Lake  Labarge,  latitude  61  de- 
grees, by  way  of  that  lake  and  Thirty 
Mile  River  and  Lewis  River,  to  Port 
Selkirk,  in  ruins,  at  the  junction  of 
the  Lewis  and  Pelly  Rivers,  about  lati- 
tude 63  degrees, 224 

[The  current  of  the  Lewie  River  is 
swift.  Between  Nordenskiold  and 
Tntchin  Rivers  from  Five  Fingers  to 
Rink  Rapids  steamers  can  work  throngh. 
About  two  miles  below  the  rapida  the 
current  is  about  six     miles     an     hoair. 

95 


Mil 

ill 


H«M»'^      H-'i|>>W>;. 


OUR  ALASKAN 

Thence  to  Fort  Selkirk  the  current  is  five 
miles  per  hour.] 

Fort    Selkirk    to    Daw«on    ou   the  Yu- 
kon   160 

[Fopt  Selkirk  to  the  Upper  Ramparts 
at  the  mouth  of  White  River  there  are 
numeirous  islands  and  gravel  bars  in  the 
stream.  The  current  is  four  miles  an 
hour  and  depth  over  six  feet] 
Juneau  to  Dawison,  the  busineM  »e*tle- 
ment  of  the  Klondike  region,  by  Way 
of  the  Chilkoot  or  White  Passes,  645 

Dawson  to  Forty  Mile  Oreek, 48 

Forty  Milei  Greek  to  Belle  Isle, 46 

[In  thiia  sitreitch  the  initemutionaJ  longd- 
tudie  of  f^r-ma-poation,  141  degreea,  is  cross- 
ed and  we  return  to  American  soil.] 

Belle  Is'^  to  Circle,   126 

CiPde  to  Fort  Yukon,  83 

Juneau  to  Fort  Yukon,   948 

Water  tt>utes  from  Seaittle  computed  in 

statute  males. 
By  way  of  Chilkoot  Pas»— 

Seattle  to  Dyea, 1115 

Dyeia  to  Dawson  (Klondike), 527 

Seattle  to  Dawson  (via  Cliilkooit 

Pass 1642 

By  way  of  Stikine  River  in  siatute 
milee. 

Seaittle  to  Wrangel,  854 

Wrangel  to  Telegraph  Creek, 140 

Telegraph  Oreek  to  head  of  Tealin 

Lake,  227 

Head  of  Teslin  I^ake  to  Daweon,  .     525 

Seattle     to     Dawson     via     Stikine 
Rivex,    1746 

By  way  of  St.  Michael's  and  the  Yukon 
River. 

Ocean  distances     computed  in  statute 
miles. 
San  Francisco  to  Dutch  Harbor,  .  .  2345 

Seiatve  to  Dutch  Harbor 19.55 

DiBtch  Harbor  to  St  Michaels,  ....     750 
St.  Michaels  to  mouith  of  Yukon,  . .       97 

Fr»m  San  Fraiioitco  to  moiith  of 

the  Yukon 3192 

96 


" 


! 


f 


1 


WONDERLAND 


Tram  Seattle  to  mouth  of  the  Yu- 
kon  2802 

Yukon  River  distances,  in  statut*'  mile«. 

St.  Michae'-B  to  Dawson, 1260 

Si:.  MichaeJfl  to  Stewart  River,   . . .   1321 

St.  Michaels  to.  Fort  Selkirk 1425 

St.  Michiaels  to  Five  Finger  Rapids,  1491 

St.  MichaeJs  to  Teala  River. 1612 

St.     Michaels     to    White     Horse    Rap 

ids, 16»T 

These  i^apids  in  Fifty  Mile  River  are 
situated  about  thirteen  miles  south  of 
Lake  Labargo  on  the  Ohilkoot  Pass  route 
back  -to  Dyea  and  Juneau,  The  Fifty 
Mile  River  connects  I^ke  Ijabarge  and 
Lake  Marsh  and  a  group  of  lakes  beyond, 
southward,  which  extend  to  the  inland, 
foot  of  Ohilkoot  and  White  Pacses,  drain- 
ing toward  the  Yukon,  wliile  Skagway  and 
Dyiea  Rdvems,  on  the  western  slope«  of 
these  «ame  pasases,  drain  into  Dyea  Inlet 
and  thence  through  Lynn  Oanai  and  its 
outlets  into  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The 
White  Horse  Rapids  tlhree-eigtiis  of  a 
mile  in  length  are  dangerous  for  boats. 
The  total  fall  in  the  canyon  is  32 
feet.  The  current  ^through  the  canyon  is 
about  fifteen  miles  an  hour.  The  canyon 
itself  is  a  mile  long  and  lOOfeetwide.  The 
mountains  attain  elevations  in  thi«  region 
of  6,400  feet. 

A  light  draft  river  boat  of  good  power, 
it  is  mentioned  oflSciaJly,  ^ould  be'  able 
to  juiiviffate  the  Yukon  aoi  far  as  Wbite 
Ho  .3     Rapidis,  a  distance  of  1,600  mUes. 

Tlie  fiingerboards  of  sdenee  ftud  survey 
have  now  pointed  to  the  curious  world 
and  the  impatient  actors  in  the  thrilling 
soenos  the  way  to  the  golden  vales  of  the 
Yukon.  Upon  tlie  returns  of  the  golden 
liiarvest  will  rest  the  occupation  of  the 
vaia  regions  which  have  had  no  existence 
in  the  affairs  of  this  busy  sphere  of  to-day 
exfiept  in  lines  from  the  expert  hand  of 
the  engineer  ajxd  dmuglvtstmui. 


:/ 


W 


)^    I 


M 


I 


97 


; 


HOW  im  LOOKS 


K\mH^ 


OurJUasbWonderland 


'■ii 


LETTER  NUMBER  IX. 


s 


Some  Interesting  Studies  in  Alas- 
kan Physical  Geography. 

A  Network  of  Waterways  on  a  Gi- 
gantic Scale. 


Saltwater  Thoronghfares  and  Fresh  Water 
Lines  of  Travel  and  Trade. 


An  Aquatic  Comnionvirralth  In  Kmbyro. 


TJiere  is  a  novelty  and  niewnesB  in  the 
creiitions  of  na/tiu'e,  tliat  gives  an  origi- 
nality and  interest  to  the  physical  geo- 
giraphy  of  Alaska,  whioh  we  do  not  find 
La  any  other  region  of  the  earth. 

Its  configiu'ation'  in  itself  is  a  siii'prise. 
Its  enormous  airea  strikes  us  with  aeton- 
iahmenit.  Ij/  ist  over  twice  as  large  ais 
Texas,  which  would  yield  to  the  Union 
six  States  as  big  as  New  York  or  Penn- 
sylvania, 

The  singularity  of  its  contour  impresses 
ua  with  interest.  Its  immense  campaot 
central  body  occupios  the  uttermost  upper 
western  comer  of  the  Northern  Continent 
of  the  New  World.  Its  dimensions  are 
more  than  imperial,  being  over  twice  the 
size  of  the  dual  Empire  of  Austria  and 
HungaJT  and  also  more  than  double  the 
99 


1(1 


i\ 


OUR  ALASKAN 


■.  '. 


surfaoe  of  the  Bmixire  of  Grermany,  iu- 
ohidin^  Prussia  amid  its  twenty-five  ais- 
sociated  kingdoms,  principaJitiea  and 
duchies.  It  is  double  the  combined  area 
of  the  united  sub- Arctic  kingdoms  of  Nor- 
way  and  Sweden,  with  a  population  o' 
6,800,000  inihabiita<Dits  (more  than  our  owi 
New  York)  amd  situated  in  the  same  lati- 
tude just  around  the  northern  cap  of  the 
globe,  whose  capital,  Stockholm,  oa  the 
pa.rallel  of  60  degrees  north  occupies  the 
saime  latitude  as  the  southern  boundairy 
of  Western  Alaska. 

It  iis  three  times  larger  than  California, 
eight  times  larger  than  Illinois  and  ten 
times  larger  than  Ohio. 

The  icy  waters  of  the  Polar  Sea  sweep 
in  rolling  stretches  of  surf  along  the  sandy 
beaohies  which  look  out  upon  the  northern 
hub  of  the  earth.  On  ite  western  bounr 
dairies  it  divides  honors  with  the  Arctic 
Ocean  and  the  Bering  Sea,  and  extends 
the  felicitations  of  modem  progress  to  ef- 
fete Asia,  the  mother  of  continents,  across 
the  initer-ocean  tidal  thread  of  Bering 
Strait. 

On  its  south,  againlst  a  ahlore  broken 
by  mounrtain  i)enini9ula.s  amd  safeguarded 
by  archipelagoes,  roll  up  from  the  Japan 
current  of  the  Kin>  Siwo,  the  gulf  stream 
of  the  Pacific,  the  tempering  waves  of  the 
Alaskan  Gailf.. 

On  the  east,  beyond  the  longitude  of 
demarcation,  nnmberod  141  degrees  west 
on  the  iwielb  of  meridiains  amd  parallels 
woven  by  science  about  the  globe,  it 
sweeps  away  towiai'd  the  waters  of  the 
Atlantic  on  the  other  side  of  the  va.s't 
frozeo  region  notted  on  contemporary 
maps  as  British  possessions. 

In  one  direction,  toward  the  southeast, 
it  reaches  out  its  giant  arms  throughi  500 
miles  of  naiTow  strip  of  aiuriferous  moun- 
tain main  land  fringed  by  scores  of  isl- 
andls  bathed  by  the  warming  waters  of  the 
AlaiskaD  Gulf,  until  suddenly  anrested 
on  thie  confines  of  a  strange  land  which 
severs  it  from  contiguity  to  the  govern- 
ing iK>wer  to  which  it  owes  allegiance. 

In  the  other  direction,  toward  the 
southwest,  it  reaches  nearly  2,200  miles 


1 


100 


WONDERLAND 


across  tlie  Pacific  in  a  chain  of  peninsu- 
las, suhmarine  moom tains  and  towering 
island  peaks  by  tlie  hiundreds,  until  halted 
in  mid-ocean  by  treaty  stipulations,  al- 
most in  sight  of  the  rugged  shores  of  the 
Kamtchatkan  regions  of  tlie  mighty  Rus- 
sian Empire  in  Aisia. 

The  ignominous  compromise,  so  charac- 
terized by  American  statesmen  when  ac- 
cepted and  since,  of  the  northern  bound- 
ary of  the  United  States  at  49  degrees 
north,  iiiistead  of  carrying  to  a  tinish  the 
eairlier  caimpaign  ory  of  "54-40  or  tight," 
necessitates  a  voyiage  of  about  500  miles 
from  Dixon  Entrance  along  the  coaat  of 
British  Ck>]!Uimbia,  before  again  entering 
United  States  juriadiction  in  the  straits 
of  Fuica  in  the  American  Sitate  of  Wash- 
ington. 

The  physical  features  of  this  land,which 
now  occupies  so  much  of  the  public  atten- 
tion on  account  of  its  unex.plodited,  but 
known  ti-easuires  of  gold  and  other  re- 
soui-ces  of  commercial  value,  are  not  only 
most  remarkable,  but  in  many  respects 
are  aimong  the  natural  wonders  of  the 
world. 

The  main  land  of  southeastern  Alaska, 
which  occupies  the  shore  strip  as  we  have 
shown  500  by  30  miles,  is  made  up  of  an 
almost  unbroken  chain  of  mouuitains  from 
3,000  to  5,000  feet  high,  at  points,  like 
Fairweather,  rising  to  15,292  feet  and  St. 
Etiaa  18,010  feet,  which  completely  hema 
in  the  miapped  Britishi  possessions. 

These  immense  heights  are  broken  here 
and  there  by  vallej's  and  limited  a;r»>as  of 
level  land  oovetned  by  dense  forests  of 
spruce,  hemlock  and  cedar  trees  and  an 
almost  impeneti'able  undergrowth. 

The  same  general  configuration,  with 
some  exceptions,  cooitiuues  from  St.  Eliais 
to  the  westenn  extremity  of  the  AlaiSkan 
Peninsula  at  Issanotski  S'trait. 

The  inland  regions  of  Alaska  are  com- 
posed of  vast  planes  and  low  hills, 
withi  no  conspicuouis  mountains  stretching 
away  to  the  Bering  and  Polar  Seas. 

A  most  novel  physical  feature  of  the 
region  is  the  immenise  number  of  isJands 
lying  off  the  coast  and  stretcjbing  nearly 
101 

Pacific  N.  W.  History  Dept. 

PROVINCIAL,  LIBRARY 
VICTORIA,  B.  C. 


OUR  ALASKAN 


'I 
h  <1 


.;.  ■ 


aoross  the  Pacific  Ocenn,  some  as  large  as 
the  smaller  Commonwealths  of  the  Union. 
In  Soiitheastem  Alaska  Prince  of  Wales 
Island  is  iftrg^T  than  Connecticut;  Baran- 
off  as  largo  as  Delaware;  Adniinilty  iis 
lacge  as  Rhbde  Island,  with  Chicihajfof, 
Kupreanotf,  Kiiiu,  Itovillagigedo  almost 
as  large. 

These  Alaskan,  islands,  from  a  few  acies 
to  hundrotls  of  square  mihis  in  area,  uuin- 
beir  eteven  hunclred  aggregately,  constitut- 
ing in  leingth  the  furtherest  outstretched 
and  in  area  the  largest  archipelago  in  the 
world. 

AnotheiT  peculiarity  is  the  innumerable 
deep  sea  channels  which,  occupy  the 
waibery  interstices  of  this  succession  of 
archipelagoes  and  penetrate  far  into  the 
m'ainJ'and.  The  most  prominent  of  these 
are  Portland  Canail,  Behm  Canal,  Clar- 
ence Str^dt,  Sumner's  Strait,  Chathiam 
Sitrait,  Prederick  Sound.  Stephen's  Pas- 
wage,  all  of  which.,  also  having  oceian  out- 
lets, converge  inland  at  Lynn  Canal.  The 
town  of  Jnneau  on  the  right  is  reach- 
ed by  Stephen's  Passage,  while  Dyea, 
ChSlkat  and  Chilkoot,  the  base  of  supplies 
and  starting  point  of  the  cross-cut  route 
inland  to  the  navigable  waters  of  the 
Upper  Yukon  for  Klondike  and  Alaskan 
gold  fields,  occupy  the  head  of  Lynn 
Canal. 

At  the  entrance  to  Lynn  Canal,  to  the 
left,  extends  Icy  Strait,  leiading  up  to 
Glacier  Bay,  one  of  the  wonders  of 
Al'aska,  and  through  Cross  Sound  into 
Fairweaither  ground  of  the  Pacific  Ocean 
to  Western  Alaska. 

On  the  main  ocean  cofiist  are  a  number 
of  bays,  sounds  and  entrances  and  other 
indentations,  the  largest  being  Iphigeuia 
Bay,  off  IMnee  of  Wales  IsQand,  through 
which  the  waters  of  Sumner  Strait  reach 
the  ocean;  Christian  Sound,  which  also 
receives  Chlatiiam  Strait  down  between 
Admiality  and  Baranoff.  Then  Sitka 
Sound  on  DaranofE  Islands,  on  the  shores 
of  whiich  stands  Sitka,  the  little  capital  of 
tliis  imperial  region.  Thence  northward 
to  Cross  Sound,  the  upper  end  of  the  in- 
side passages  on  the  coaat,     bounded  by 

102 


'^ 


wBrnmim 


"891 


WONDERLAND 

?l'aciaJ  and  mountain  wonderi.  Then 
akutat  and  Diaendia.ntnient  Bays, 
wMdh  penetrate  the  Titanic  niouutadn 
nest  with  St.  El:ia43  and  the  va«t  ice  sea  of 
Maltispiua  on  the  noirth  and  Fairweather'a 
mouutaim  giants,  morainal  depusits,  buriiod 
forests  aud  snow  masses  on.  the  south. 

Then  we  reach  Prince  William's  Sound, 
wTiich  receives  the  drainage  of  much  of 
the  famous  Copper  River  regions.  Th«n 
Cooks  Inlet,  wMch  gaithers  up  the  waters 
of  the  auriferous  regions  of  the  Sushitoa 
River.  Then  HelekofE  Strait  on  the  south 
and  Bristol  Bay  on  the  north  side  of  the 
butt  end  of  the  Alaska  Peninsula,  larger 
than  the  peninisuJa  end  of  Florida. 

Thus  leaving  the  Gulf  of  Alaska  by  a 
single  stride  across  into  Bering  Sea,  we 
ivach  Kiiskokwim  Bay,  which  receives  the 
waiters  of  that  greait  stream.  Just  be- 
yond is  Etolin  Strat,  with  Nunirvak  Island 
like  a  soliitiary  ocean  sentinaJ,  guarding 
the  approiach  to  the  deltoid  mouUi  of  the 
mighty  Yukon. 

And  thence  to  Norton  Sound  with  its 
little  island  of  St.  Michael,  miles  beyond, 
affording  the  only  safe  harborage  for  the 
fleets  of  steamers  and  oither  craft  frr  th* 
auriferous  regions  of  the  Upper  Yukon. 

Thence  we  prroceed  through  the  narrow 
ocean  pontlals  of  Bering  Strait,  with  Big 
Diomede  Isdand  in  mid-current,  like  a 
stepping-stone  between  the  two  conti- 
nenits  of  America  and  Asia. 

Theucfei  passing  within  the  regions  of 
icebergs  and  floes,  the  home  of  the  right 
w'hiale,  we  enter  Kotzebue  Sound,  a  safe 
Hnehorage  for  whaling  fleets  which  resort 
thiither.  Rounding  Point  Hope  and  Cape 
Lisburne  and  climbing  over  the  cap  of  the 
earth,  sighting  Icy  Gape,  the  terror  of  the 
Arctic  whalers,  we  reach  the  northern  tip 
of  the  continent  at  Point  Barrow,  the 
Amierlcan  refuge  station  of  wliale  ships 
and  the  northemimost  point  where  the 
flag  of  the  Republic  waves  in  territorial 
jurisdiction. 

Under  the  caption  of  Alaskan  Posaibil- 
Ities,  I  referred  to  the  six  grand  geograph- 
ical divisions  of  the  territory.  It  is  an- 
other feature  of  tlhe  reigion  that  each  of 
103 


PI 

1 


|^ST:;«n 


««*t~*.iiii.,-i'-i.-^ 


;i 


OUR  ALASKAN 

tlhiMe  sections  hns  iita  distinctive  river  By»« 
tern. 

The  niimermw  ino-rine  waiter  ways, 
straits,  r^tuails,  i^tissageci,  bays,  sounds  vmd 
e«tiiari(>9  along  the  o(Mi»t,  mostly  of  great 
depth,  rcM^ivo  from  the  miaiinland  th« 
waters  of  a  Inbyrintihine  notwork  of 
rivers.  Some  of  tbom  are  of  Hufficient 
depth  to  float  for  many  milra  steamers  of 
ocean  and  river  draft.  AH  of  them  to  the 
very  base  of  t'h'e  lofty  mountaioa  can  be 
utilizved  by  the  l>aidarrii,  t)he  mooseskioi 
oano«  and  »th9r  water  conveyances  of  ebe 
niatives. 

Were  it  not  for  these  convenjipncea  of 
nature  tlie  mountainous  confignratkm  of 
the  country,  combined  with  the  sphagan- 
oiis  or  moas-coivprod  boggy  surface  of  the 
lower  lands,  would  render  travel  extreme- 
ly difficult  land  in  same  pants  impractica- 
ble. 

The  Stikine  River,  Jong  famous  for  the 
gold  taken  from  its  banks  across  the 
Britisih  border,  is  the  first  stream  of  im- 
poPtiance  we  fincoainter  In  ascending  the 
Alaskan  crtast  from  the  south.  Although 
abou't  250  miles  in  length  its  ooitlet  near 
Wrangel  Lsland  and  but  30  miles  of  its 
course  lie  in  the  United  Staitea  .inrisdic- 
tioin.  In  the  spring  it  is  navigable,  but 
the  rast  of  the  year  only  for  native  boats. 
One  branch,  the  north  fork,  aboui;  40 
miles  in  length,  rises  on  the  east  side  of 
Bald  Mountain,  almost  side  by  side  with 
the  headwatens  of  tSie  Yukom,  which  rung 
many  hundreflis  of  miles  of  meandering 
coume  l>eforo  it  reaches  tlie  sea. 

The  Takn,  which  empties  lt«  watere  into 
G'Jader  Arm  of  Stephen's  passage,  is  only 
fit  for  native  boats  beyond  the  frontier. 

The  Ivynn  ■Canal,  whir'h  is  aiu  ocean 
inland  water  course,  receives  at  its  head 
several  small  streams  on  the  east,  the 
Shkagway  with  a  mountain  7,400  on  its 
eastern  shore  and  is  the  route  of  travel 
for  gold  hunters  from  Shkagway,  by  the 
White  Pass,  to  the  chain  of  inland  lakes 
and  water  courses,  notably  Fifty-Mil« 
River,  which  wdth  the  Teslin,  makes  the 
Lewis  River  one  of  the  two  mala  head« 
104 


itiWimii 


if. 

R 


"7 


1 


•msimmamsim 


1' 


masasi 


]. 


'WOVDERLAND 

water  rivers  which  uaite  to  make  the 
Yukon. 

Nearby  ia  the  Dyea  River,  a  amall 
Btream  wWeh  also  empties  into  the  Dyea 
Inlet,  and  from  the  town  of  the  same 
name  is  available  for  loative  boats  to  the 
foot  of  Ohilkoot  PaiS.*,  which  also  de- 
bouches on  the  transnwun'tiain  side  into 
the  same  system  of  mi>untam  lakes  and 
outlets  which  eater  tho  Yukon  through; 
the  Lewis.     • 

A  short  distance  to  the  west  ia  Ohilkait 
Inlet  and  River,  the  third  of 
the  throe  streams  which,  spread 
out  fanlike  M  the  head  of 
Lynn  Oaraal'.  This  river,  from  Klukwaar, 
approaches  the  Ohilkat  J^ass  and  on  the 
other  side,  through  Lake  Arkell  and 
Tahkheena  River,  unites  in  Fifty-Mile 
River  with  the  two  other  transmountain 
routes  to  Lewis  River  and  the  Yukon  to 
the  Klondike  region. 

After  a  stretch  of  six  degrees  of  ocean 
longitude  in  latitude  60-20  north  we 
reach  the  d^^lta  of  the  famoua  Copper 
River,  30  miles  in'  Ihmgth  and  5  miloo 
in  width. 

The  CVypper  and  the  Ohittyna,  its  maiin 
tributary,  are  streamfl  of  leading  rank 
in  the  river  system  of  Wostem  Alaska, 
although  of  no  vahi"  for  navigation  by 
larger  craft  and  only  with  difficulty  by 
the  nfltive  cunoea. 

The  Copper  or  Akna  River,  aeoi'ding  to 
Liente.iant  Henry  'l\  Allen,  Second  Unit- 
ed States  Cavalry,  one  of  its  explorers, 
makes  a  de»'ent  of  3.^00  feet  in  330 
milies.  Its  chief  trading  town  and  start- 
ing point  of  expeditions  is  Niichek,  on 
Hinehinbrook  Island,  432  miles  west  of 
Sitka,  and  50  miles  west  of  its  mouth. 
The  region  is  exceedingly  mounrtainons 
and  shows  positive  Bigns  of  large  mineral 
weialth,  esoeeiailly  in  copper 

From  Niii;Ii».k  to  the  entrance  of  the 
Chittyna  River  on  the  left  is  a  distance 
of  101  miles  and  to  Lake  Sus'ota,  a  res- 
ei'voir  of  the  Slana  River,  tributary  of 
the  Copper,  from  the  sea,  is  403  miles. 

From  the  Midnoosky  Creek,  entertng  on 
the  right  of  Ohittyna  River,  11  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  the  latter,  is  the  •tart- 
105 


OUR  ALASKAN 


^1    ;! 


Ing  point  of  trail  by  way  of  Lake  Sral- 
ota,  241  miles  to  Nnchek,  &  distance  of 
403   miles  by   river. 

The  CJopper  and  the  Tanana,  a  trilni- 
tary  of  the  Yukom,  have  their  fountain 
sprlnjrs  al'raosrt  side  by  Bide  and  closely 
parallel  each  other  for  many  males  until 
they  divide  and  find  tiheir  outlets,  the  one 
in  the  Gulf  of  Alaska,  south,  and  the 
other  in  the  Bering  Sea,  north  of  the 
Alaskan  Peninsula. 

The  Suishitna  finds  its  mitlet  in  Cook  Tn- 
tet  and  form*  a  convenient  inland  water 
course  for  communication  by  trnil  with 
the  Tanana  on  thn  north  and  the  KuiS-kok- 
■wim  on  the  west. 

On  the  western  shore  of  Cook  Inlet, 
opposite  the  opening  into  the  ocean  and 
west  of  the  active  volean  of  Ausrustin* 
runs  a  small  water  eoure  by  which  a 
short  portape  is  made  to  Lake  Ilinminn,  a 
Bheet  of  water  80  by  25  miles  or  about 
one-third  the  size  of  Tvakp  Ontario,  and 
thenico  by  the  Kvichak  outlet  into  Bristol 
Bay. 

As  an  object  lesson  of  the  value  of 
these  easy  portapes  by  water  and  trail 
from  one  river  system  to  another  it  should 
be  said  that  by  the  Tliamna  Lake,  a  dis- 
tance of  not  over  100  miles,  mostly  by 
boat,  saves  at  least  800  miles  of  soa  voy- 
age around  the  Peninsula  of  Alaska.  This 
striking  instance  of  the  almost  incompre- 
henfilble  va^ue  of  the  network  of  Alaska-n 
rivers  and  commtinicating  lakes  is  the 
same  as  if  a  natural  water  channel  exist- 
ed acrosa  the  head  of  the  Fl/'iioa  Pen- 
insula  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico. 

The  Nuvihagak.  150  miles  long,  which 
enters  the  same  bay.  has  communication 
by  lakes  and  rivera  with  the  Kuskokwim. 

The  Kuskokwim,  the  second  largest 
river  of  Alaska,  after  penetrating  a  little- 
explored  region  for  fiOO  miles,  takes  its 
rise  I'm  the  same  cluster  of  glaciered  peaks 
which  also  contribute  waters  to  the 
sources  of  the  SiTshitnn.  whose  outlets  in 
the  ocean  are  400  miles  apart. 

The  course  of  the  stream  is  said  to  be 
across  a  vast  plateau.  There  Is  a  port- 
age route  between  fMU  stream  immit  the 
106 


WONDERLAND 

tPftddttg  station  of  Kalmftkvolsky  and  the 
Yukon.  This  portion  of  the  valley  hias 
g'ood  soil  and  a  fine  growth  of  forest 
trees,  ahrubs  and  herbs. 

There  are  also  iiDdicationa  of  oommer- 
elaJ  qualities  of  cinnabar,  antiniony  and 
silver-bearittg  quartz.  The  region  also 
abounds  in  beaver,  nuarten  and  foxes  and 
the  rivers  in  salmom,  upon,  which  the  na- 
tives subsii^. 

About  300  miles  beyond  the  Kuskok- 
wim  the  deltoid  moiuth  of  the  mighty  Yu- 
kon, the  great  river  of  Alaska,  and  one 
of  the  great  rivers  of  the  world,  empties 
its  immense  volume  of  drainage  into  the 
Nortmn  Sound  estuary  of  Bering  Soa. 

The  importance  of  this  commanding 
artery  of  our  Alaskatn  dominion  will  be 
well  worthy  of  a  place  by  itself  in  our 
sitirring  story  of  Wonderland  Alaska. 

The  Arctic  division,  largely  consisting 
of  frozen'  moors  and  low  hills  has  a  num- 
ber of  streams  useful  only  for  draimmg 
the  iirterior  hillsides  of  their  summer  melt- 
ing«  of  snow  and  ice  tand  afford  fad'ities 
for  summer  canoe  or  winter  sled  transpor- 
taition  for  the  hardy  Eskimo  natives  and 
explorers  of  the  seal^ed  volume  of  nature 
inland. 

The  Colvillo,  whi<?h  empties  imto  the 
Polar  Soa,  about  600  miles  west  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  and  the  Ikpik- 
pung,  are  the  prinicipal  north  flowing 
rivers  while  the  Selawick,  Noatak  and 
Kowak  empty  into  the  Kotzebue  estuary 
of  the  Arctic  Sea  tow^ard  the  west. 

TTiere  are  numeroui»  smaller  streams 
which  coBHtitute  an  impnrtnnt  share  in  the 
summer  rlrainiage  of  that  Polar  basin  c' 
snow  and  ice. 


d  to  be 

a  port- 

<e*r  the 


107 


H  WOKDIR  OF  RH 


m 


m 


aiiHifiimiii»ii 

aaoir 


m 


RS 


: 


OurtlasbWonderland 


LETTER  NUMBER  X. 


Yukon's  Mighty  Flood  Through 

Golden  Lands  and  a  Thousand 

Isles. 


The  Father  of  Sab- Arctic  Waters. 


It  Drains  Territory  of  Two  Nations  and 
Takes  Its  Way  Throogh  Two  Terres- 
trial Zones. 


If  we  were  to  board  a  steamer  at  any  of 
the  gi-eat  sea  ports  of  our  Pacific  Coast 
and  proceed  narthwestei'Jy  tbirough  the 
beautifud  labyrinth  of  inland  waters  which 
lie  off  the  mainland  nortb  of  Oape  B'lat- 
tery,  a  little  beyond  the  48th  parallel,  we 
wouid  find  duirselves  entering?  the  mouuf- 
tain  and  glacial  gloines  of  Lynn  Canal  in 
Southeafilera  Alaska. 

There  wooild  lie  before  us  a  choice  of 
two  routes  penetraiting  the  coast.  Avail- 
ing ourselves  of  Chilkoot  on  the  star- 
boaird  instead  of  Ohelkat  inlet  on  the 
port  dde  after  passing  a  settlemexiit  samed 
Haines,  we  eooni  enter  Dyea  Inlet. 
Agadni  the  waters  divide,  but  leav- 
ing Shkagway  on  the  right,  tlie  good 
ship  plows  her  way  up  the  najrowing 
waiteKi  until  mooired  at  the  head  of  navi- 
gatioo)  at  Dyea  towm,  a  diatauce  of  15 
mJUea 

100 


OUR  ALASKAN 


Thence  leaying  our  steamer  we  liteirally 
"l>addle  ouir  own  canoe,"  the  mamstay  of 
ti'avel  and  traffic  in  Alaska,  for  a  dis- 
ta.nce  of  10  milea  to  the  head  of  canoe 
navigMtioiD.  Thence  we  take  to  the  loco- 
motion of  last  resort  a  pair  of  stout  limbs, 
with  pack,  staff  and  rifle,  and  pi-ess  still 
onward  two  and  one-third  miles  to  tbe 
mouth  of  a  minor  atream  najmed  Nouxse. 

We  have  now  ix>ached  the  pm-tals  of  a 
defile  in  the  Kotuah  Mountain  named  Per- 
rier  by  Schwatka,  after  an  erudite  meon- 
bcT  of  the  Fi-ench  Geographical  Society. 

lu  this  pass  we  cross  the  ten  marine 
leag^ue  line  of  international  demai'cation 
between  the  United  States  mainland  and 
British  territory.  Mounting  to  an  eleva- 
tion of  4,240  feet  and  ti'aversing  a  dis- 
tance of  eleven  miles  in  crostiing  the  di- 
vide, we  descend  om  the  eastern  side  by 
rapid  declivities  to  a  platean.  About 
six-tenths  of  a  mile,  to  be  scientifically 
correct,  off  the  pathway  of  the  passt, 
nestled  in  the  frozen  elevations,  lie  tht 
remains  of  a  volcanic  vent  in  the  noouii- 
tain  mass  now  filled  with  ice  and  snow, 
which  received  from.  Schwatka  the  name 
Oi-aitei"  Lake. 

At  this  point,  within  40  miles  of  ocean 
navigation,  we  atand  upon  the  glaciiil 
masses  which  murtttpe  the  infant  Yukon. 

Let  us  now  return  to  the  bounding  bil- 
lows and  instead  of  putting  our  prow 
to  the  starboard  bear  it  liard  to  th«  port. 
Passing  through  Icy  Strait  and  Oi'oss 
Sound  we  enter  the  broad  Pacific.  Tak- 
ing a  southwesterly  coui'se  28  degrees  of 
narrowing  meridians  and  3  of  parallels, 
nearly  1.500  statute  miles,  we  pass 
through  the  narrow  waters  of  Isanatski 
Strait  at  the  western  (.-xtTeuiity  of  the 
Alaskan  Peninsula  in  Bering  Sea,  and 
thence  shaping  our  course  a  trifle  west  of 
north  round  Oape  Bomanzof  about 
470  miles,  and  about  150  miles 
moi-e  to  the  noatheasterly  brings  us  off  the 
deltoid  mouth  of  the  Father  of  sub-Arctic 
waters. 

Thus  we  complete  an  oceanward  senu- 
circle,  a  distance  of  about  2,120  miles, 
oarpesponding   to   a   similar   aemJ-dme 

110 


WONDERLAND 


on  the  mainland  from  Crater  Lake  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Yukon,  a  distance  of  2,044 
miles. 

In  a  line  from  Oater  Lake,  the  source, 
to  Aphoon,  mouth  of  the  Yukon,  as  the 
sea  gull  flies,  the  distance  would  be  28 
meridians  of  longitude  on  the  parallel  of 
60  degrees,  making  about  1,000  miles  just 
one-ihalf  the  course  of  the  river  oi*  of  the 
ocean,  with  the  Alaskan  Peninsula  in  the 
way. 

It  is  another  singular  fact  that  the 
Yukon,  rising  near  the  parallel  of  60  de- 
grees, debouches  in  Bering  Sea  near  the 
parallel  of  62,  after  making  a  crescenit- 
like  sweep  of  784  miles  on  British  and 
1,260  miles  on  American  territory. 

This  mighty  river,  ranking  among  the 
longest  in  the  world,  draiuis  about  600,000 
square  miles  and  discharges  through  its 
many  mouths  one-third  more  watei"  into 
Bering  Sea  every  hour  than  does  the 
Mississippi  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

The  Yukom  district  under  British-Oa- 
nadiani  jurisdiction  comprises  192,000 
square  miles,  of  which  152,768  are  within 
the  watershed  of  the  Yukon.  On  the 
eastern  side  of  the  divide  lies  the  vast 
basin  of  the  Mackenzie  River  dipping  into 
the  Polar  Ocean. 

We  will  now  return  to  Perrier  Pass 
and  descend  the  mighty  fluvial  highway, 
noting  as  we  proceed  some  oi  its  more 
important  physical  chai'acteristics. 

The  pass  itself  is  covered  with  snow, 
bounded  by  glaciers  and  fringed  with 
juniper  and  dwarfed  spruce.  At  the 
summit  of  the  piss  upwards  of  foui'  thou- 
sand feet,  a  trail  to  the  north  descends 
rapidly  several  hundred  feet  to  one  of 
those  numerous  mountain  expanses  of 
wat"^  for  which  Alaska  is  celebrated. 

Tuj8  bowl  of  snow  and  water,  about 
one  hundred  acres  in  extent,  sun-ouudetl 
by  bare  granite  hills  has  all  the  charac- 
teristics of  an  extinct  crater. 

Far  beneaih  its  icy  surface'  tJie  gurgling 
waters  make  their  way  amid  the  snow 
massea  in  the  mountain  gorge,  through 
which  the  Yukon  trail  finds  its  way,  to 

HI 


OVR  ALA8KA2/ 


canoe  navigation  upon     the     bosoim  of 
tributary  lakes  and  streams  at  its  foot. 

The  accounts  of  the  early  explorens  re- 
fer to  the  immense  suaow  arches,  beneath 
which  these  fountain  waters  find  an  out- 
let, frequently  collapsijig  and  being  carri- 
ed off  in  the  rushing  stream  beneath, 
leaving  walls  20  to  25  feet  high  on  either 
side. 

In  the  warmer  sea»ons  the  emlew  and 
the  swallow,  the  nimble  mountain  goat 
and  the  brown  bear  may  be  seen  in  the 
midst  of  this  wild  grandeur  of  mountain 
and  water. 

After  a  distance  of  twelve  miles  tiiese 
leaping  currents  spread  out  upon  the 
placid  bosom  of  Lake  Lindeman  about  10 
by  1^  miles  in  area,  named  after  a  dis- 
tiuiguished  member  of  the  Bremen  Geo- 
grapbical  Society. 

On  its  watei's  may  be  seen  drifting  with 
the  current  the  greeiirwinged  teal,  gulls, 
Arctic  Tern  and  Harlequin  Duck,  on  its 
sihoa-oa  the  grouse,  the  bear,  the  cari- 
bou laj'.d  mountain  goat  peaoefuUy  feed- 
ing. 

The  hundred  lakes  of  Alaska,  from 
mere  drops  of  water  to  sea-like  ai-ea**, 
which  are  among  the  attractions  of 
mountain  and  plateau  beauty,  ai-e  hei-e 
met  in  all  their  placid  grandeur.  There 
are  no  less  than  ten  of  these  sheets  of 
water  connected  by  three  distinct  systeona 
of  outlets  which  finally  unite  in  Thirty- 
Mile  Greek  and  join  the  Lewis  River. 
This  sti'eam  by  S^hwatka  was  accepted 
as  the  continuation  of  the  Yukon  beyond 
the  Pelly  River  confluence  to  the  head- 
waters La  the  Kotush  Mountain.  Although 
the  Pelly  is  of  greater  length  it  is  of  leas 
volume  than  the  Lewis. 

The  Crater  Lake  outlet,  alter  leaving 
Lake  Lindeman  on  the  Ohilkoot  Pass 
route,  thence  enters  by  a  s^mall  stream. 
Lake  Bennett,  a  river-like  body  of  wabe^r 
with  a  large  arm  on  the  north,  extending 
northeast  25  miles  and  then  turns  south- 
east into  Tagish  Lake,  which  also  re- 
ceives the  watei-s  of  a  chain  of  lakes  which 
connect  with  the  trans-mountain  outlet 
of  Wihit©  Pass  from  Shkagway  on  Dyea 
Inlet. 

112 


I 


^ 


WONDERLAND 


rs 


This  entire  group  of  lakes  empties 
through  Lake  Maxah  bouiuled  oa  either 
side  by  elevations  of  5,500  to  6,500  feet. 
The  next  outlet,  in  which  the  daiDgierous 
WMte  Horse  Rapids  of  Fifty-Mile  River 
appear  widens  into  Lake  Labarge,  30 
mileis  long,  and  thence  through  TMrty- 
Mile  River,  40  miles  inito  the  Lewia  or 
Upper  Yukon. 

The  total  faJl  in  the  White  Horse  Can- 
yoni,  five-eighith  mile  long  and  100  feet 
wide,  according  to  the  United  State  Coast 
SuiTey  charts,  is  32  feet,  with  a  cui'rent 
of  15  miles  an  hour. 

Before  reaching  Lake  Labarg<e  Fifty- 
Mile  Itiver  receives  Tahkhoeua  River 
from  the  west  the  outlet  of  Lake  ArkeJl, 
2,700  feet  above  the  soa,  35  by  5  miles, 
wWch  is  the  outlet  of  the  Chilkoot  I'asa 
route  from  the  Chilkoot  River  and  arm 
of  the  same  Lynn  Canal. 

On  the  east  Thirty-Mile  River  receive* 
the  waters  of  Teslini  River  and  Dakie, 
tlie  latter  70  by  5  miles,  with  a  short 
poi-tage  from  the  Nakina  branch  of  the 
Taku  River  from  Juneau,  forming  that 
route  for  gold  hiUoters  to  the  Lewis  por- 
tion of  the  Yukont 

After  leaving  the  raduith  of  Big  Salmon 
River  from  the  west  the  Yukou-Lewis 
arm  continues  to  Fort  Selkirk  through 
the  Five  Mngens  and  Rink  Rapid®  (raun- 
ed  after  Henry  Rink,  an  authority  on 
GreenJaiul)  ♦^hroujih  wliicli  steauwis  can 
warp  against  a  sdx  mile  aaid  thence  on- 
ward against  a  five-mile  current. 

We  now  reach  the  junctioin  of  the 
PeEy  Rivei",  named  after  an  English 
eaa'ly  governor  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany, which  originates  in  the  same  group 
of  mountains  which  give  rise  to  the  Sti- 
kine.  Between  the  two  there  is  an  easy 
portage.  And  yet  the  I-^tter,  flowing 
south,  entei's  the  ocean  in  longitude  132 
degrees  and  the  former  by  a  circuitouis 
route  in  longitude  164  fully  1,300  miles 
ainart. 

In  the  forks  of  th.ese  two  rivers  stand* 
Fort  Selkirk,  In  former  days  the  chief 
trading  point  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany in  the  north  western  tenito^r,  wert 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
US 


1 


1 


OUR  ALASKAN 

ThflB  post  was  establislhed  albout  1848 
and  was  destroyed  by  the  coast  Indiaiiui 
in  1852, 

From  Fort  Selkirk  the  Yukon  proper 
flows  northwest  natil  it  ent'srs  the  Arctic 
Circle  and  tienee  south  wet  l  into  Bering 
Sea. 

Beyond  Fort  Selkirk  the  Yukom  take« 
a  eurront  of  four  miles  an  hour  with  a. 
depth  of  six  feet  and  many  islands  unitil 
it  reajohos  the  White,  a  muddy  stream  of 
ejome  dimensions,  from  the  south.  This 
portion  of  the  Yukon,  known  as  the  Up- 
per Ramparts  narrows  to  250  yardis  m 
width,  with  great  depth. 

Below  this  point  the  stream  widens 
from  1  to  10  and  sometimosi  20  milea 
from  bank  to  bank  and  contains  numeioii* 
islands.  AH  the  greater  affluents  from 
the  west  now  have  their  rise  on  Americninr 
soil. 

About  10  miles  Ivolow  the  mouth  of 
thie  White  the  Sitewart  River  enters  from 
the  east.  We  now  approach  the  famous 
Klondike  region,  aibout  125  miles  below 
Fort  Selkirk,  passing  Ogilvie,  a  small 
station  opposite  the  mouth  of  Sixty-Mile 
Creek,   entering  from  the  west. 

Not  quite  40  miks  lower  down  we  reach 
the  mouth  of  the  Klondike  River,  which 
enters  from  the  east.  On  the  north  sido 
of  its  month  stands  Dawson,  the  chief 
town  of  the  region  and  the  end  of  the 
long,  toilsome,  weai  ing  and  dangerous 
tj-avels  of  the   "gold   winners." 

Leaving  this  interesting  lo<Tality  for  a 
more  detailed  account  in  its  proper  p'A<,'e 
in  this  story  of  "Our  Ala.ska!n  Wonder- 
land and  Klondike  Neighbor,"  we  push 
on  down  the  Yukon,  which  now  taJtea  a 
most  circuitous  route,  reaching  Forty- 
Mile  and  Cndhay,  one  on  either  side  of 
the  mouth  of  Forty-Mile  Creek,  another 
region  rich  in  gold,  mostly  in  Alaskan 
limits. 

In  view  of  the  prospects  of  valuablie 
gold  deposits  along  Forty-Milie  Creek, 
which  enters  the  Yukon  from  the  west 
about  50  miles  below  Dawson,  in  the 
Klondike,  giving  that  stream  immediate 
importance  in  the  affairs  of  that  region 
of  goldi,  Ogilvie,  an  English  suxveyor, 
114 


i 


iBB 


WONDERLAND 


t 


miade  observationB  to  determine  whea* 
that  stream  crossed  the  141  meridian  and 
marked  the  point  albout  23  miles  from  its 
va<mtK 

The  Forty- Mile  Oreelc,  after  a  meander- 
ing  course  of  50  malies  on  Amerioani  ton-i- 
tory,  divides  into  two  forltst,  the  south 
tisinig  on,  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Ketci"- 
amstock  Hills,  on  the  western  shed  of 
which  the  Tanana,  tributary  of  the  Yu- 
kon, takes  its  rise. 

About  30  miles  below  we  return  to  the 
jurisdiction  of  the  United  States  ajt  the 
141  mcridiajn,  tlio  line  of  intenmtinn'iil 
demiarcation;  agreed  ujpon  between  Eng- 
land and  Russia  in  1825,  aiad  natm'ed  to 
the  United  States  in  the  cesfijon  by  the 
latter  power. 

The  point  of  intersection  has  been  lo- 
eaited  by  engineers  of  both  conntriee  amd 
marked. 

The  first  American  station.  Belle  Isle, 
lies  at  the  mouth  of  Mission  Creek,  10 
miles  northwest  of  the  international  cross- 
ing, and  aibout  5  miles  cross  country  west 
of  the  line. 

The  Boundary  Butte  rears  its  promi- 
nent cap  just  beyond  on  the  American 
side. 

About  10  mi^ies  above  CMrcle  the  next 
river  station  on  the  western  batnk,  the 
Yukon  "ipi-eads  to  lake-like  width  and  is 
dotted  with  a  tlionsand  beautiful  isJets 
for  85  miles  northwest  and  thence  140 
miles'  south  of  Fort  Yukon  to  the 
Lower  Ramparts,  a  total  distance  of  225 
miles. 

The  Thousand  Isles  of  the  Yukon  occu- 
py an  arc  in.  the  course  of  the  great  river 
which  carries  it  to  a  point  where  it  fol- 
liows  the  Arctic  Circle  for  a  distance  of 
30  mii!es.  The  northern  shores  lie  within 
the  Polar  zone  on  the  one  side  and  the 
southern  ^ores  in  the  Temperate  zone 
oo  the  other,  of  the  North  American  Con- 
tinent. 

The  Thontfttnid  Isles  of  the  St.  Law- 
penoe,  one  of  the  favorite  resorts  of  th< 
munmer  tourists  from  "the  States,"  is 
duplicated,  only  on  a  larger  scale,  on  otir 
own  Yukon. 

115 


! 


OUR  ALASKAN 

After  a  descent  of  85  mii^B  from  Oirole 
in  the  mid«t  of  this  stretdi  of  islands  the 
main  stream  receives  the  Porcupdne  River, 
whose  RTeat  flood,  boginninp  in  Pish 
Lake  and  8well(«d  by  miany  trib\itarie«, 
CTOBses  the  frontier  line  about  150  miles 
to  the  eastward  of  its  month. 

In  thtf  forks  of  the  Yukon  and  the 
Forcnrrtne  stands  Fort  Yukon,  v?hieh  In 
its  day  enjoyed  great  prominence  in  the 
primitive  affairs  of  that  distant  imterior 
region. 

The  post  was  establLs^hed  in  1848  by  the 
Etislish  Hudison  Bay  Company.  In  1869, 
two  years  after  tlie  transfer  of  jurisdic- 
tion, an  astronomical^  dbaervation  under 
the  auspices  of  the  Uwited  Stat<'s  deroon- 
etrated  that  the  station  was  on  American 
Bodl.  The  Hudson  Bay  Oom'pany  offioera, 
upon  being  notified  of  the  fact  and  di- 
rected to  vacate,  ascended  the  Porcupine 
and  located  themselves  anew  at  Ram- 
part House.  la  1890  the  observationa 
of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey  Rhowed 
that  the  British  station  was  ®tiM  20  miles 
within  American  jurisdiction. 

In  1891  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  of- 
ficers advanced  20  miles  still  further  up 
the  Porcupine  in.l  estajblished  the  pres- 
en*  Rampart  IIoup  '  station  on  the  north 
shore,  just  bel^w  tiie  month  of  a  stream 
entenng  from    i'Y  i  south. 

The  TTppei-  fliiid  the  Tvower  Raim^wrts 
of  the  Porcupine  on  American  territory 
ajl)Ouit  80  miles  apart,  present  a  majestic 
8ti"e1:ch  of  Polar  zone  scenery. 

An  interes'ting  feature  in  connection 
with  the  locality  is  that  the  site  of  the 
fort  sitands  just  north  of  the  line  which 
divides'  the  Arctic  from  the  North  tem- 
perate zones  of  the  earth.  It  is  about 
1.055  miles  from  the  sea,  490  below 
Fort  Selkirk  in  the  forks  of  the  Pelly  and 
Yukon  Licwis  Rivers  and  989  miles 
below  OMiter  Lrfike,  its  swurce. 

After  leaving  Fort  Yukon  and  passing 
the  Ix>wer  Ramparts  about  64  miles  jn 
latitude  64.07,  longitude  152.08  we«t,  tJie 
river  receives  the  flow  of  the  Tanana,  its 
largest  tributary,  from,  the  east.  At  its 
mouth  stands  Tanana  and  a  short  dis- 
taaioc  below  St  Jiaones'  Misdon,  raider 
116 


- 


JVONDERLAyO 


4 


the  auspices  of  the  Pretefltaint  BpisoApal 
Ohtirch. 

The  Tanaina  "RiTer  of  the  ^loiintaina" 
enters  the  main  «tream  30  miles  below  th« 
Ramparts,  684  miles  from  the  sea,  250 
mill's  in  len^h  and  as  much  miore  tbrouffh 
headwaters  to  its  souroe  in  the  divides 
which  also  contrnbute  tVe  fountnin  waters 
of  the  White  and  the  Copper  Rivers. 

About  17  miles  below,  on  the  right 
bank,  is  the  village  of  Tukluky^t,  A 
short  distance  farther  on  are  the  Palis- 
ades, a  beautiful  stre+eh  of  scenery.  It 
is  aleo  the  starting  point  of  several  trails. 
Still  descending,  wo  pass  Nowifcakat,  aia- 
other  of  the  river  trading  post. 

TJience,  after  a  stretch  almost  due 
south,  receiving  a  number  of  important 
tri'butaries  and  passing  Nulato,  on  the 
we«t  bank,  and  ot^her  villages,  we  reach 
Anvik,  one  of  the  United  States  river 
weather  8tat!oins. 

Another  stretch  south  and  the  great 
river  makos  a  sharp  cuirve  to  the  west, 
until  it  reaches  the  blufRs  of  Andreafski, 
where  the  magnificent  mountains  whiich 
limed  the  great  stream  from  its  souroe 
so  many  hundreds  of  miles  begin  to  dis- 
nnpeair  and  are  lost  completely  below 
Kusilvak.  20  miles  further  on  at  the  di- 
verging point  of  the  five  larger  and  a 
Inbrrinth  of  smaller  outlets  of  the  river, 
100  miles  from  the  se^. 

The  mowotonoiis  alluvial  level  of  the 
deilta.  70  miles  on  the  sea  front, 
here  begins. 

The  river  now  distributes  its  waters 
through  a  web  of  tidal  outlots,  channels 
and  marshes  and  finially  reaches  the  open 
watensi  of  the  lake-like  sea  of  Bering, 
hemmed  in  by  the  AleutiaTi   ohnin. 

The  immense  amount  of  siilt  borne 
down  by  the  reddish  current  is  ghoTvn 
by  the  great  area  of  shflriow  water  nnd 
muddy  bottom  of  the  vast  de'ta..  The 
coast  survey  cliarts  make  a  line  of  sound- 
ing 100  miles  off  the  shore  from  Onpe 
Dyer  to  St.  Miehael,  consrnntl'y  rangin^f 
from  9  to  18  feet,  amd  as  far  out  in  the 
open  sea  as  St.  Lawrence  Island.  160 
miles,  due  west  not  to  exceed  210  feet 
end  would  not  averaige  half  that  depth. 
117 


>; 


K 


OUR  ALASKAN 

This  entire  upper  portion  of  che  Ber- 
ing Sea  between  the  Yukon  delta  to  the 
Gu)]if  of  Anadir,  on  the  Eastern  Siberia 
coast  of  Asia  opposite  and  nortJh  to  Ber- 
ing Strait  will  hardly  show  a  greater  av- 
erage depth. 

The  vast  deposits  which  have  been  car- 
ried down  from  the  interior,  and  the  toI- 
oanic  and  glacial  action  of  liiis  same  quar- 
ter of  the  globe  is  but  part  of  the  sublime 
handiwork  of  nature,  which  has  been 
going  on  from  the  remote  solitude  of  ag*?«, 
in  the  growth  of  the  north westera  comer 
of  the  North  American  continent. 

The  Yukon  to  Alaska  is  what  the  Mis- 
sissippi and  Missouri  axe  to  the  United 
State',  "he  Rhine  and  the  Danube  to 
C3er  cPal  and  Southern  Europe;  the  Volga 
and  the  Dneiper  to  Russia ;  the  Yaug^tse- 
Kipng  and  Hoangho  to  Cliina;  the  Nile, 
th'?  Congo  and  the  Niger  to  Africa;  the 
Amazon  and  Parana  to  South  America; 
eaxi  numerous  lesser  fluvial  ar- 
teries to  the  States,  principali- 
ties and  nations  through  which 
they  take  their  course.  With  these  great- 
est rivers  the  Yukon  aJiSio  takes  its  rank 
in  length  and  leads  them  all  in  volumes  of 
water  and  miajestic  grandeur  of  scenery. 

The  inconceivable  amount  of  water 
which  the  river  discharges  would  be  even 
greater  particularly  in  the  absence  of  any 
material  evaporation  were  not  the  melt- 
ingB  of  glacier  fronts  and  snows  of  the 
lower  elevations  and  the  torrents  of  the 
summer  rains  percolating  down  through 
cracks,  crevices  and  canyons  of  the 
mighty  mountain  masses  partially  held  in 
check  by  thie  Arctic  tundra  mosses  which 
grow  in  such  profusion  on  the  freezing 
e«rth  beneath. 

The  general  and  pi.  vsioal  featui-es  of  ihe 
river  are  pecn'iarly  interesting.  Tlie_  fa- 
cilities of  navigation  of  any  w*ater  high- 
way being  equal  to  its  shalloweBt  point, 
the  Yukon  from  its  mouth  to  its  larger 
headwaters  n'raost  its  entire  distance  is 
available  for  boats  drawing  three  and  one 
half  feet  of  water.  Six  feet  is  claimed  to 
Fort  Selkirk. 

These    boats,    flnt-lKVtcomed     and     de- 
signed to  meet  the  requirements  of  tiie 
118 


■Mm 


WONDERLAND 


■ 


{ 


river,  will  carry  a  maximum  of  500  tone. 
Even  in  high  water  Hhe  river  ia  not  suit- 
able for  ooean-going  craft.  Owing  to  the 
shiallowneasi  of  the  waters  ontside  and  in- 
side of  the  mouth  and  inland  the  great 
lines  of  ocean,  steamers  discharge  thedr 
passengers  and  freight  for  transhipm<?n.t 
to  river  craft  at  St.  Michael,  a  harbor  on 
the  island  of  that  name  73  miles 
beyond  the  Aph'oon  mouth  in  the  gridiron 
of  outlets  of  the  river. 

The  closed  season  of  the  river  covers 
about  eight  months,  the  summer  or  open 
season  extending  from  June  1st  to  Sep- 
tember 15th.  During  the  long  ^  winter 
when  the  sun  lies  beneath  the  horizon  for 
twenty  hours  out  of  the  twenty-four  the 
river  does  ndt  remain  helpless  and  uscleos 
in  the  icy  embrace  of  the  blizzaid  King 
Boreas,  but  is  utilir'^d  for  sled  jmiimeys 
by  the  natives  and  traders  from  village  to 
village  along  the  river's  course. 

In  the  brief  summer  the  temperatuPo 
soraetimeis  reaching  almost  a  subtropical 
maximum,  maintains  paI^ticullarly  in  .Tuly 
and  August  a  mean  as  deligliitful  ais 
we  experience  in  our  Adirondacks  and 
W^iite  mountains  and  the  sublime  eL-vat- 
ed  rfgions  of  the  Garden  o*  the  Grods,  the 
Yellow  Stone  and  higher  r^^tefatis  of  the 
Rockies  nearer  home. 

The  banks  of  the  river  arc  then  oarpet- 
ted  with  the  beautiful  Arctic  tundra,  a 
moss  and  lichen  like  ?rowt]i  wliich 
gives  the  appearance  of  a  velvet  turf 
of  bronze  green.  Also  beautiful  flowers 
of  ever>  aShiade  and  delicacy  of  fragrance 
indigenous     to     sub-Arctic  temperature. 

Amid  the  scant  foliage  of  low  trees 
ti]t  birda  of  all  sizes,  plumage  and 
•ong.  The  indigenous  animals  seen  at 
different  points  along  its  lengthened 
shores  are  the  grizzly  and  the  brown 
bears,  moose,  caribou,  mr.^  ox,  mountain 
sheep,  wild  goat,  .ibbitfi  Arctic  hares, 
musk  rat  and  the  "fretful"  porcupine. 
On  the  bovsom  of  its  current  are  seen  geese, 
ducks  and  other  aquatic  fowl  and  henea.th 
dwell  the  toothsome  salmon,  grayling  auKl 
trout. 

ThiQ  unlucky  moose  herds  making  their 
119 


I 


1  '■' 


OUR  ALA8KAN 

way  across  the  river  are  often  niihlesaly 
alauighitered  by  a  fusihade  from  a  passing 
steamer. 

And  still  higher  in  the  eitemal  soditade* 
of  nature's  icy  laboratories  measured  by 
miles  in  elevation  may  hi  seen  the  ever- 
repleniS'hed,  ever-deseending  aiod  nevejv 
dieetolTinig'  glaciers. 

Thus  fpo«i  the  dtck  of  the  craft  of  man 
may  be  aeen  from  Aliaskan  waters  at  th.e 
same  tiiiK?  eternal  fires  from  the  bowete  of 
the  earth  atnid  the  sea,  the  strttuige 
gloriesi  of  the  land  and  the  resplendency 
of  ice-capped  mountains. 

Nor  is  it  all  a  peaceful  suirvey  of  nla- 
ture.  The  ubiquitous  and  irrepressdhle 
mosquito  vying  with  its  insect  k'ndred  of 
New  Jersey  iis  just  as  tenacious  of  its 
attentions  to  the  unooTeied  i»u|)erficde8  of 
animal  life.  Not  only  man,  but  the  cattle 
of  the  field  and  animals  in  mountain 
haimts  are  the  objects  of  these  inseetiver- 
ous  assaults  siipplemenited  by  the  per- 
eLat^t  attentions  of  gnats  and  the  vicious 
gouging  effect  of  the  nippers  of  %  variety 
of  hoi«e-3y,  which  renders  "a  .iimgdom 
for"  a  mosquito  net  not  aa  extravagance. 

The  archaelogical  interest  of  the  great 
river  is  as  greajt  as  its  more  recent  rela- 
tione to  mundane  affairs.  On  its  banks,  es- 
pecially near  it»  headwaters,  the  femmr 
and  te^th  of  the  mastodon  have  been 
fonnd  to  remind  the  geologist  that  the 
shores  of  tliei  Yukon  in  the  mysterioius 
ages  of  the  miocene  and  pliocene  periods 
of  natures  buUding  of  the  planet  we  in- 
habit must  have  been  the  haunt  and  houne 
of  that  extinct  monster  race  of  the  ele- 
phant family. 

The  scenery  of  the  entire  river  for  over 
two  thousand  miles  is  of  unexampled 
grandeur.  It  begins  in  the  glacier  of 
Orater  Lake  in  the  Kotush  and  continues 
in  the  Upper  RaimiKixts  just  below  Fort 
Selkirk.  In  this  weird  region  it  passes 
through  the  heart  of  tlie  golden  lands  of 
Alaska  and  Koudike,  the  intrittito  ehan- 
rfJs  of  tbiu  T'housa'ad  Islos  ami  by  h^v- 
toric  Fori,  Yukon  until  fully  r  .on  huc- 
dred  miles  away  in  am  over  widb.iing  lake- 
like  and  narrowing  chioam-Iikr;     chaniioi 

120 


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WOIiDERLATifD 

and  with  an  ever  accelerating  and  abat- 
ing current  it  passes  seaward  through  the 
porta  Ijs  of  the  Lower  Kamparts  until  it  is 
lost  in  the  mighty  watea's  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean. 

The  Kwichpak,  which  was  the  earlier 
name  of  the  Yukon,  as  it  approached  the 
sea,  has  been  abandoned.  Tbe  entire 
length  from  source  to  mouth  is  generally 
known  as  the  Yukon,  although  the  head- 
water tributary  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Pelly  is  still  miapped  as  the  Lewis  and 
retains  its  local  name. 

In  1833  tbe  Fort  St.  Michael,  which 
ooutrols  the  trade  of  the  river,  was  buiJt 
on  the  island  of  the  same  name,  one  of  a 
small  cluster  on  the  souLh  ^Ide  of  Nortooii 
Sound,  about  73  miles  northeast  of 
the  Aphoou  mouth  of  tlie  rivt". 

In  1835,  with  a  view  to  the  extension 
of  trade  up  the  Yukon,  the  Russians  made 
am  exploration  of  the  mouth  of  the 
river, 

A  few  years  later,  their  operations  hav- 
ing extended  considerable  distance,  a  fort 
named  Nulata,  between  the  G4th  and  65th 
parallels^  was  built,  but  it  was  almost 
immediately  abandoned  and  burned  by 
the  natives.  In  1841  the  Russians  made 
another  attempt  to  occupy  the  post,  but 
the  natives  proving  less  docile  than  their 
kindred  on  the  sea  coiast,  after  a  trouble- 
some occupation  of  ten  years  were  again 
dispossessed.  In  1859  it  was  rebuilt  and 
held. 

In  1843  tbe  occupation  of  the  river  was 
extendixi  to  Nowikakat,  just  below  the 
Palisades,  in  latitude  65  degrees.  In  1847 
the  confluence  of  tbe  Yukon  and  the  Por- 
cupine, an  impoi'tant  strategic  point  was 
occupied  by  the  construction  of  Fort  Yu- 
kon, afterwards  abandoned.  Since  that 
date  explorations  have  kept  pace  with  the 
advance  of  ti-ade  until  the  entire  maiu 
river  is  well  known. 


■  ll 


121 


Mountain  Monarchs. 


f) 


m 


^ 


iS. 


LETTER  NUMBER  XI. 


^'Fighting''  John  Rodgers  on  Onr 
Alaskan  Possessions. 


The  Himalayas,  Alps,  Andes,  and 

Mountains  of  the  Moon  Thrown 

in  the  Shade. 


A  SabmarinA  Range  of  Moantains  Mightier 
Than  the  Masses  of  the  Himalayas. 


An  Aroblpclago  Greater  Than   Imperial 
Japac-Anclent  Venice  Ontdone. 


At  3  P.  M.,  December  ITiai, 
1870,  the  lamMJh  of  the  United 
Startea  steam  frigate  Oodoiradio,  flag- 
elhip  of  the  Asiatic  fleet,  droppwi 
away  from  the  landing  at  the  quay  of 
Shangliai.  The  admiral  of  the  fleet, 
"Fightinjg"  John  Rodgers,  was  on  board. 
I  was  his  guest.  Owing  to  her  draught, 
the  flagship  lay  at  ainchor  outside  the  bar 
at  Woosung,  about  twelve  miles  below 
the  chief  seaport  of  the  celestial  Empire, 
The  wind  was  howling,  sleety  and  cold. 
The  launch  plowed  its  way  toward  the 
sea  with  the  spray  flying,  hustling,  hissdng 
haste  of  such  sprightly  little  orait. 
123 


OVB  ALASKAN 


MhI 


fl 

P^ 

►B 

M 

; 

4 

Th,e  Odopado  v^as  an  old-timer.  Frown- 
ing through  the  port  holes  of  her  black 
wooden  walls  were  45  savage-looking 
guns  of  large  calibre.  She  was  4,700  ton® 
displacement.  The  United  States  Navy 
then  could  boast  of  but  two  ships  her 
equal  and  but  two  surpasing  her  a  trifle 
in  displacement,  carrying  respectively 
but  39  and  12  guns.  Ajad  these  were 
pushed  along  at  a  snail's  pace  by  a  sin- 
gle screw.  This  oomstituted  the  entii-e 
list  of  warships  of  the  United  Statea 
Navy  of  the  first  class  at  that  time. 

It  seems  almost  ridiculous  to  con- 
template the  public  ladmiration  bestowed 
upon  these  antiquated  "tubs"  and  then 
bring  our  minds  up  to  the  staodJard  of 
ooir  present  sea^goiinig  armored  bat- 
tleships, with  displacements  ranging  from 
6,315  to  11,525  tons,  and  racing  the 
laighty  deep  at  a  velocity  from  15  to  17.04 
knots  an  hour.  And  back  of  them  fleets 
of  armored  cruisers  and  the  whole  list 
of  modern  war  craft  by  the  scores  from 
monitors  down  to  surface  and  sub- 
marine torpedo  boats  propelled  with  the 
speed  of  the  wind  at  18  to  30  knots,  no- 
tating  many  more  statute  miles  an  hour. 

The  Admiral,  who  had  been  in  the 
navy  since  1828,  was  as  tough  as  the 
knarled  live  oak  ribs  of  his  war-like 
craft.  He  was  a  Marylander,  blonde  and 
handsome,  even  after  42  years  buffeting 
the  storms  and  terrors  of  every  sea.  He 
wias  of  the  siame  stuff  which,  in  the  days 
of  the  Revolution  and  1812,  humbled 
England  on  her  chosen  element. 

After  a  distinguiahed  career  as  a 
subaltern,  in  1862,  commanding  three 
gunboats  on  the  James  River,  he  silenced 
the  Oonfedei-ate  batteries  up  to  the  ca.se- 
mated  Fort  Darling,  and  failed  to  reach 
Richmond,  he  said,  owing  to  sunken  ves- 
sels in  the  channel. 

The  fight  at  Fort  Dading  was  a  fine 
exhibition  of  American  heroism,  both  by 
the  defenders  of  the  fort  and  by  the 
gunners  of  the  fleet.  The  Galena,  the 
flagship  of  Rodgers,  was  hit  129  times 
by  the  Confederate  shot,  and  only  with- 
drew after  evei-y  shot  amd  slhelli  in  her 
miagazines  had  been  fired  and  two-thirda 
124 


|||^ 


WONDERLAND 

of  her  men  were  killed  or  wounded.  ThUi 
wa«  a  sample  of  the  daring  which  gave 
John  Rodgera  the  sobriquet,  "Pigliting 
John"  of  the  American  Navy.  He  also 
kept  the  Weehiawken  head  on  in  a  ter- 
rific gale,  he  aaid,  "to  teat  the  sea-going 
qualities  of  monitors,"  when  every  of- 
ficer on  board  urged  him  to  make  for  the 
breakwater  of  the  Delaware.  In  1863 
h«  fought  a  naval  duel  with  the  terrible 
Confederate  irono'ad  ram  Atlanta  in 
Warsaw  Sound,  Greorgia.  In  fifteen  minr 
utes  after  firing  five  shots  from  IJhe  Wee- 
hawker  the  Confederate  struck  her  col- 
ors. The  old  "salt"  of  the  Weehawken 
•aid  he  was  "just  settling  in  hig  own 
raind  the  merits  of  the  new  15-inch  gun^" 

He  also  sailed  the  monitor  Moniadijock 
around"the  horn"  to  San  Francisco.  On 
hi«  way  he  witnessed  liie  bombaidment 
of  "Valparaiso  by  the  Spanish  fleet. 

The  Admiral  laughed  heartily  over  this 
experience.  He  remarked:  "I  couM 
have  taken  my  monitor  Monadnock,  bat- 
tered and  beaten  as  she  was,  by  the  rough 
weather  off  the  Horn,  and  in  one  hour 
have  whipped  the  whole  Spanish  fleet. 
Their  sftiots  were  wild.  They  could  not 
hit  a  barn  at  close  range." 

During  my  delightful  sojourn  on  the 
flagship  my  companionable  hero-host  in- 
vited me  to  an  inspection  of  one  of  the 
vessels  of  his  fleet.  There  were  eight  in 
all.  The  Alaska,  the  one  selected,  was 
an  old  fashion  screw  vessel  of  2,400  ton« 
displacement  carrying  12  guns.  She  re- 
called to  his  mind  after  our  return  to  the 
flagship  the  accession  of  the  Alaskan  ter- 
ritories to  our  national   domain. 

"I  feel  quite  at  home,"  said  he,  "in 
China  and  Kamtchatkan  and  our  own 
Alaskan  Bering  and  Pacific  Seas.  In  the 
fifties,  for  three  years,  with  the  United 
States  steamer  John  Hancock,  I  had 
charge  of  surveying  and  exploring  expe- 
ditions in  these  waters  and  therefore 
ought  to  know  something  about  them." 

"I  recall,"  added  the  Admiral,  "my  feel- 
ings when  the  conclusion  of  the  Russian 
treaty  was  announced.  A  few  days 
later  I  was  then  in  command  of  the  Bd«- 
toa  Navy  Yard,  I  penned  a  letter  of 
125 


& 


^    IWP 


OUR  ALASKAN 


ooinigTatul«,ti<m  to  Sedretary  Sewwrd.  I 
remember  saying  "that  the  amount  paid 
ynm  a  mere  bagatelle.  •  •  •  Th^ 
Bouthem  part  of  Ruiasian  America  is  the 
Mune  a*  New  England.  *  *  ♦  We  got 
(rboires  like  Norway,  which  aui»ply  Enroj)e 
with  timber.  •  *  •  The  Bhores  are 
warmer  than  we  have  in  the  same  la;i- 
tnde  on  the  Atlantic  aide,  and  so  oc." 

Years  after,  frequently  meeting  iJie  (ud- 
miral,  hole  and  hearty,  on  the  a-yenuef.  of 
Walelhington^he  often  reverted  to  tb«  vnlue 
and  interest  c'  our  Alaskan  posst^sions 
being  more  and  more  appreciated  every 
year. 

It  will  doubtless  cause  aurprise  when  it 
is  said  that  San  Francisco,  in  longitude 
122-30  weet,  is  «till  east  of  the  center  of 
the  juriisdiction  of  the  Uniited  States 
from  east  to  west,  which  begins  at  D*x?-r 
Island,  in  PasBamaquoddy  Bay,  in  Maine, 
in  longitude  66  west,  and  ends  beyond 

the  island  of  Attn,  the  western  outpost 
of  the  AJeutiam  chain,  in  loongitude  173 
east  in  the  North  Pacific  Ocean. 

The  coast  line  of  Alaska  without  the 
smaller  indentations  is  4,000  miles  long. 
It  i«  bordered  by  three  seas,  the  Pacific, 
Bering  and  Arctic.  From  its  southern 
boundary  tO'  Point  Barrow  on  the  Polar 
sea  (54-40  to  71-22  degrees  north  lati- 
tude) it  is  about  1,200  statute  miles  long 
In  a  straight  line,  or  as  far  as  from  thie 
southern  point  of  Florida  to  the  northern 

Eoint  of  Maine,  or  farther  than  from 
ondon  to  St  Petersburg.  From  its  eaist- 
ern  to  its  western  longitudes  of  intema- 
tional  demarcatioaii  it  is  (130  W.  to  170  de- 
grees E.)  over  3,000  statute  miles,  or  300 
miles  further  than  from  Eastport,  Me., 
to  Cape  Flattery,  Washington  from  Las- 
bon,  Portugal  to  the  Ural  Mountains  on 
the  Asiatic  confines  of  Ruissia. 

Its  southeastern  mainland,  a  strip  of 
territory  thirty  miaitine  leagues  wide 
from  the  southern  point  of  Prince  <tf 
Wales  Island  to  Mou»t  St.  Elias,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  400  miles,  under  American 
jurisdiction!,  the  summits  of  the  coast 
rtange  moumtaiins  forming  the  line  of  inter- 
nationlal  diviisdon,  rises  to  great  altitudiee, 

126 


V 


WONDERLAND 


the 


ranering  from  6,000  to  0,500  feet.  Theee 
constitute  a  migbty  ramtpart  of  natural 
boundai-y  agaioat  tlie  British  po8seMion« 
cm  the  ea^t. 

The  watera  of  this  same  coast  from 
Dixon  Entrance  to  Gross  Sound  are  dot- 
ted with  upwards  of  500  isliaud^,  known 
aggregatejy  as  the  Alexander  Archipelago, 
with  an  area  almost  as  great  as  the  Im- 
perial Archipelago  of  Japan.  Any  one  of 
its  larger  islands,  Prince  of  "Waies,  Kup- 
eanioif,  Boirainof,  Ghidhagof,  Admiralty, 
Wrangel  RevilMgigedo,  Btolm,  is  as  great 
in  area  as  famed  Sicily  or  CX>rsioa,  and 
huTMJpeds  are  largier  than  the  Isliant"  of 
MoJta,  in  the  Mcddternainean.  In  all  i,- 
100.  1 

This  picturesque  sweep  of  manne 
beauty  is  interwoven  with  a  network  of 
innumerable  navigable  water  courses 
with  the  physical  capabilities  of  an  im- 
perial Venice  of  the  remote  west,  com- 
pared with  which  the  ancient  and  pow- 
erful Italian  republic  was  the  merest 
speck. 

We  can  readily  imagine  how  with  the 
occupation  of  these  insular  sites  by  aJi 
enterprising  population,  these  highways  of 
water  will  be  the  municipal  thoroughfare* 
of  fleet  steamers  of  travel  instead  of  rail- 
roads and  trolleys,  boats  of  burthen  in- 
stead of  driays  and  freight  trains  and  gay 
gondolas  in  place  of  the  pleasure  vehicle* 
of  men  of  leisure  and  ladies  of  fashion 
on  their  social  rounds.  Indeed  an  Ameri- 
can Venetian  commonwealth  in  the  dis- 
tant Alaskan  waters  of  the  North  Pacifia 

The  Ai:.akan  mountain  system  is  reared 
upon  a  scale  as  miagnifieent  as  the  grand- 
est of  the  mountain  monarchs  of  th« 
eartWs  oruist. 

Its  three  important  ranges  grouped  un- 
der the  Coast,  the  Rocky  and  the  Alaskan, 
vie  in  miasis  and  altitude  with  the  im- 
menae  groups  of  the  Himialayaa  in  the 
heart  of  Asia,  the  Alps  in  the  heart  of 
Europe,  the  Moon  on  the  continent  of 
Africa,  the  Rockies  in  the  heart  of  North 
America  and  the  Andes  along  lie  littotral 
of  South  America, 

Mount  St.  Gothard,  the  nucleus  of  the 
127 


*■ 


OUR  ALASKAN 


T 


Swiss  Alpine  mountain  system,  covered 
with  perpetual  snow,  presents  an  array 
of  peaks  rising  to  its  preatest  elevation 
in  Mount  Blanc,  15,732  feet  above  the 
sea,  with  glaciers  and  lakes  embosomed 
in  mountains  and  drained  by  torrent 
streams.  It  extends  from  Oape  Fini»- 
terre  to  the  Black  Sea,  1,800  miles. 

The  Himalayas,  "the  abode  of  snow" 
in  the  native  tongue,  the  most  elevated 
above  the  sea  on  the  globe,  with  a  length 
of  1,500  miles  from  the  Yangtse  to  the 
Indus,  with  a  m€*an  e'evadon  donble  the 
Altw,  presents  foa-ty  peaks  exceeding  20,- 
000  feet  and  culminated'  in  Mouiit 
Dhawtalaghiri  at  28,000  feet. 

The  mountains  of  ithe  Moon,  which 
stretch  from  Gai>e  Gnardafui  1,800  miles 
in  the  Zanzibar  and  Mozambique  regions 
of  the  African  continent,  culminate  in 
Kili-Madjaiaro  at  19,000  feet. 

The  Andes,  che  most  remarkable  of  th* 
physical  feahires  of  the  globe,  find  their 
fitting  culmination  and  tennination  in 
our  Ala-9kan  Wonderland. 

Beginning  as  they  do  in  the  precipitous 
and  rugged  heighfts  of  Oape  Horn,  on  the 
isle  of  Terra  del  Fuiego,  they  puttrae  their 
course  of  grandeur  the  entire  length  of 
the  continent  of  South  America,  a  di»- 
tance  of  4,500  miles.  Then,  under  dif- 
ferent names,  following  the  slender  cord, 
the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  Which  unites  the 
two  great  Americas,  branch  out  to 
form  the  lofty  sub-tropical  regions  of 
Central  America,  and  traversing  Mexico, 
penetrate  the  United  States,  crossing  its 
entire  area,  and  thence  through  British 
Columbia  enter  Alaska. 

In  their  course  of  130  degrees  latitude, 
or  about  9,000  statute  miles,  in  Terra  deJ 
Fuego,  the  land  of  fire,  they  reach  alti- 
tudes from  2,000  to  7,000  feet;  in  Pata- 
gonia 8,000;  in  Chili,  in  the  volcano  of 
Artuco,  10.000,  eulminatinig  in  the 
mighty  prophyritic  mass  of  NcTada  of 
Aconcaqua  at  24.000  (which  I  gazed  at 
in  wonder  from  Valparaiso).  The  Peru- 
vian Andes  reach  11,000  feet.  The 
Ecuadorian  Andes  at  Quito,  9,600  feet, 
are  surrounded  by  the  most  magnifloent 
128 


i 


WONDERLAND 


i 


group  of  volcanoes  in  the  world,  among 
them  the  famed  Gotopaxi,  19,000  ft-et 
with  its  masses  of  flames  thrown  heaven- 
ward 3,000  feet,  and- mighty  Ch.imborazo, 
21,425  feet. 

In  the  Sierras  of  Mexico  we  find  lofty 
Popooatapel  pouring  forth  its  volumeis  ohE 
lava  and  flames  when  nature  demands. 

In  the  United  States,  in  Ariiona  we  find 
Mt.  San  Francisco,  13,000  feet;  in  Cali- 
fornia, Mt.  Whitney,  15,000;  in  Nevada, 
Mt.  Wheelei-,  13,000;  in  Oregon,  Mt 
Hood,  11,225;  in  Washington,  Mt.  Rain- 
ier, 14,444;  in  Idaho,  Hyndnaan  Peak, 
12,073;  in  Wyoming,  Grand  Teton,  14,- 
150;  in  Utah,  Mt.  Emmons,  13,694;  in 
New  Mexico,  Cerro  Blanco.  14,269;  in 
Colorado,  Blanca  Peak,  14,464;  in  Mon- 
tana, Mt.  Douglass,  11,300,  and  to  cap 
the  climax  of  this  array  of  American 
mountain  grandeur  we  ascend  to  the 
Coast  Range  of  our  Alaskan  Wonderland, 
rifling  to  18,010  at  that  sublime  corner- 
stone of  international  jurisdiction  be- 
tveen  American  empire  and  British  oc- 
cupation. Mount  St.  Elias. 

Yet  from  this  altitude  we  still  gaze 
heavenward  at  the  glistening  eternal 
snow-clad  summit  of  Mount  Logan  at  19,- 
500  feet  with  Fairweather  14,500  feet 
and  Vancouver,  Hubbard  and  Pinta  rear- 
ing their  lofty  snm'mits  aroumd^ 

Nature,  not  yet  ended  in  the  grandeur 
of  Alasknin  mountain  tops,  overhangs  the 
current  of  the  Oi>T>ner  River  with  a  trrnnp 
in  which  are  Mounts  Samborn,  13,000 
feet;  Drum,  13,300,  and  higher  still 
Mounts  Wrangel  aind  Black  ait  17,500 
each. 

From  the  lower  elovation  of  the  .Tade 
Mountains,  3,500  feet,  overloolung  Kotz- 
bue  Sound  and  the  Tanana  hills  the  north- 
em  lands  drop  away  amooig  unniamed 
peatos  of  3,000  to  5,000  feet  to  the  low, 
sandy  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea. 

And  with  all  these  woudrouis  works  of 
naiture  in  Wonderland  Alaska  tht  Coast 
range  of  California  and  the  Rocky  Moumr 
tains  unite  and  sweep  away  from  the 
oonitinontal  mass  across  the  Kenai  and 
down  the  Alaakan  Peninsula  to  sini  be- 
129 


m 


J^ » 


i 

ji 
If 


1'  » 


i; 


OUR  ALAHKAN 

uetuth  tlie  waters  of  iJhie  Pacific.  In  these 
nKysteriouB  depths  they  now  forni  a  de- 
Pined  suibmairine  chain  of  mouaitains,  ex- 
tending through  34  d^'Kr^es  of  longitude 
0^  ocean  or  1,700  miles  Asiaward  from,  the 
nmin  lamd  at  the  extreme  tip  of  the  Alas- 
kan Peninsula.  Thus  elongated  tongue  of 
land  itself  juts  into  tlie  ocean  9  degrees  of 
Ib'Digitude  of  450  miles  before  the  sulbma- 
rime  range  begins 

"Kiia  distinct  aaiid  connected  submaxine 
i-ange  receives  the  name  of  the  Aleutian 
Islands  above  thie  waters  and  the  sub- 
merged foundation  lost  beneath  the 
wave»— the  Pacific  Ocean.  Where  they 
rise  above  the  surface  they  form  five  mid- 
ocean  archipelagoes  with  a  thousand  lofty 
suimmits  known  as  the  Fox,  Four 
Mountains,  Anoireano,  Rat  and  Near 
Isliajndis,  thie  'atter  the  largest  of  the  At- 
tn, forming  tho  last  outpost  of  the  juirls- 
diction  of  ttie  United  States  toward  Asiia. 

These  peaks  ru^e  in  tlip  Fox  Islaiida  to 
8,900  and  Andreanof  Isilands  to  5,000  feet, 
almost  sheer  height  above  the  sea  from 
mighty  submarine  masses  in  defined  moun- 
taiiu  measurenienits  below  the  waters.  To 
the  eouthtward  of  the  Fox  Islands  Wiihin 
120  males,  the  mig'hty  ocean  shows  sound- 
ings of  3,620  fathoms  (21,720  feel)  or  four 
miles  from  the  btxl  of  the  ocean  to  the  sky- 
ward summits  of  the  Alaskan  Aleutian 
flubmnrine  mmintain  chaini. 

The  Shishaldin  volcano  on  the  Unimak 
laLand,  the  first  ot  the  Fox  group  in  the 
Aleutian  submarine  mountain  chain,  pro- 
trudes 8,{)52  feet  above  the  waves  of  the 
Pacific.  The  measured  depths  of  its  foun- 
drxtionis,  120  miles  distanit,  below  the 
waves  by  the  fathom  line  3,620,  or  21,720 
statute  feet,  makes  from  its  submairine 
base  on  the  bed  of  the  great  deep 
a  recognizable  altitude  of  30,672  feet 
or  about  six  mUes  of  clear  eievation  or 
3,600  feet  greoiter  height  than  the  Hima- 
layas. 

Nor  does  tihiis  mnrveloais  work  of  the 
Mflster  Architect  of  the  Universe  end 
here.  On  thip  same  island  Pogrumnoi 
volcano  lifts  its  rurged  head  5,523  feet 
Above  t'je  surface  ot  the  sea  at  its  bass. 

130 


i 


< 


WONDERLAND 


1 


If  exposed  to  view  from  the  (south  w« 
wouM  itblen  conteimxylafte  a  moumitaia  huum 
27,243  feet  in  height. 

And  fltiH  f  uirthier  penetrating  the  mJghity 
Pacific  we  find  going  Asia  ward  in  the 
Fox  Islamd  grouip  M  ikuishin  rising  5421 
feet  out  of  thie  waves.  In  the  Islamdn  of 
the  Four  Monimtainis  Vesividof  8,000,  Yon- 
aiska  2,864,  Anrnkta  3J38,  Sequam  2,092. 
In  the  Andireamof  the  Great  Sitkin  5,033 
and  Toniaga  6,975.  In  the  Rat  Islands, 
Little  Sitkin  3.585  and  Kyaske  3,700,  with 
Attn  with  its  five  peak«  of  the  Near  Inland 
BujpTOunded  hy  sheer  depths  of  2,463  faith- 
oms  from  the  sonfii,  1,447  on  the  north, 
4,007  on  the  soTit'jwest  and  2,237  to  the 
east,  all  to  be  multiplied  by  six  fee^t  to 
a  f aithom  before  tonchinig  the  bottom. 

And  away  to  the  northwest  of  the  Fox 
Islands  3  degrees  distant  in  the  Beriu* 
Sea,  the  cape  of  the  flamoiuis  Pribilof 
Islands,  St.  Paul,  with  its  three  poakw  '133 
feet.  Walrus,  Otter  and  St.  Greorge  jntLiug 
out  of  tiiie  ahiallow  bed  of  the  Beaing  Sea 
from  200  to  500  feet,  the  reaort  of  the 
valuable  fm'  seaJ,  otter  and  walrus. 

The  Alention  snbmame  range  making 
a  cre«cent  shape,  iholds  in  the  hollow  of 
ltj»  encircling  en  r.  the  waters  of  Bering 
Sea  and  forr.is  an  American  and  BuBi»ian 
lake  073x2  Y60  statute  miles  compai-ed 
with  which  the  MediteiTaneari,  250x2,500 
fltflttute  miles  is  a  pond. 

The  great  Russian  and  American  ex- 
plorers and  scientiats  of  thiiS  vaat  region 
of  physical  marvels  have  united  in  admir- 
ing its  unfolding  details  and  so  will  their 
sucoessons  with  even  greater  enthiisiaam. 
No  one  can  conceive,  even  after  a  person- 
al Inspection  as  the  writer  enjoys,  of  all 
the  greatc«t  moutain  masaee  of  the  earth 
except  one.anything  grander  than  the  land 
snmmits  of  Alaska.  But  greater  than  all 
are  the  scores  of  AlPjskan  peaks  rising  to 
sheer  heights  a«  lofty  as  8,000  feet  out 
of  the  indigo  waters  of  tlie  Pacific.  Theee 
find  no  equal  in  an/  ocean  of  thi*  terres- 
trial spheiu 


i 


181 


i^'^pr^*^  wswpPt'sw 


.'§ 


m 


f 


I 

'•I 


H' 


1 


PLUIOmC  FIBES, 


< 


f 


LETTER  NUMBER  XII. 


Mountain   Stacks   Send    Forth 

Smoke,  and  Explosive  Vapors 

From  Vulcan's  Workshop. 

The  Acconchement  of  the  Sea  and 
an  Island  Rises. 


Thermal  Springs,  Hot  Marshes  and 
Fountains  of  Health. 


A  Poison    Island,   Boiling  Pools   and    a 
Lakoof  Sulphnr. 

A  Comgeiklal  Ketreat  Vuder  the  Amerloatt 
Flaf(  fur  aat«.u  uuti  Alls  Imp*. 


One  of  the  stock  arffinnoints  of  the  op- 
poneuta  of  the  Kuasiaia  Aiiierican  pur- 
chase in  the  Fortieth  Congress  was  that 
it  was  a  land  of  volcanoes,  glaciers,  eter- 
nol  snows,  boiling  springs  and  other  phy- 
•ieal  ailinenta  of  Mother  Earth.  The 
good  tliimigs  which  liay  upon  that  por- 
tion, of  her  nurturing  boaom  wei:«  never 
even  surmised. 

I  well  remember  upon  one  oocasdoQ  one 
of  the  negative  curators  pei-aistently  be- 
rated Russiaa  America  and  the  Secretary 
of  Staite  with  liei-y  zeal  to  the  utiuoirt 
limit  of  h&a  sparse  vocabulary. 
133 


.1 


OUR  ALASKAN 


h 


n 


U 


II. 


i., 

•V 


The  groat  Secretary  always  deriredi  a 
fund  of  amiiflement  from  the  denedty  of 
ignopanoe  or  malevolteixre  manifested  by 
this  line  of  statesmen  (?). 

"There  is  uaefulness  in  Tolcanioes,  gla- 
cders,  thennal  ®pringa,"  aaid  he  one 
diay,  "and  other  wonderful  t!hini;s  la  na- 
ture. They  hare  even  an  economic  Talue 
if,  besides  reliievinig  Mother  E^th  ot  ab- 
norm<al  conditions,  for  aught  c'.lBe  than  to 
ercite  and  keep  alive  tie  wonderment  of 
feeble  mortals.  The  flaaning  cone  of 
Vesuvi'ua,  the  glaciers  of  the  Alps,  the 
geysera  of  Iceland  [the  wondeim  of  the 
Yellowstone  were  theoi  not  so  welil 
known],  the  mud  springs  odf  the  Caspian, 
the  Swiss  lakes  are  to  the  looaliti'ss  in 
which  they  are  yituated  a  valued  iiUieri- 
tance.  Who  can  tell?  It  m;ay  be  so  in 
Alaska.  Our  peopte  are  fond  of  wonder- 
fuli  things.  Why  not  have  them  at 
htome?" 

This  was  a  quizzioal  view  of  the  ques- 
tfoo.  The  Secretary  knew  from  his  nu- 
merous avenues  >>f  information  that  the 
resource®  of  land  lamd  sea  with  exploita- 
tion would  eventually  be  worth  a  hundred 
times  more  than  the  purchase  money. 

It  must  Tw>t  be  orerlooked,  however,  as 
I  have  already  d<  nionstrated,  that  the 
inceptive  cause  of  <^"^  negotiation  whidh 
dat^  far  back  of  Secretary  Sewaaxi's  era 
was  intei'nntion.al  friendship  cwi  the 
part  of  Russia  and  territorfal  possession 
and  commercial  ascendancy  on  llie  pflrt  of 
the  United  Starfies  on  the  wester  a  shores 
of  the  American  Oontinen't  and  on  the 
Pacific  Ocean  unobstructedly  toward  the 
Oontinent  of  Asia. 

It  may  be  interesting  to  preface  the 
Alaskan  volcano  bone  of  cointention  in 
the  Foirtieth  Congreaa  b>  a  1  sw 
generalities  on  those  terril.  <>  agents 
of  mundane  internal  relief,  to  tdiow  thlat 
our  eminent  hero  had  not  c<  mered  the 
market  on  those  and  other  physical  ter- 
psstrial'  monstrosities  as  alVged  "on  the 
floor  of   the  National  Hoviae  of  Repr^ 

Our  Alaskan  and  Aleutian  possessions 
have  never  been  the  exclusive  centre  of 
the  volcamic  ulceration    of    the    earth's 
134 


4 


WONDERLAND 


boflom.  These  sarface  sores  are  fomiid  in 
every  zone  of  our  mundane  sphere.  Tlhey 
exist  in  every  great  o^'ean,  their  eternal 
fires  haivinig  a  logloaJ  prorximlty  to  tJhe 
wateors  of  the  great  deep.  The  Pacific 
Ocean  has  a  perfect  circuit  of  them,  be- 
gimuoig  in  our  own  Alaskan  and  Haiwaii- 
Bo  possessions.  Taking  in  its  Asia.lc 
diores  and  islands  of  Oeeanica  they  ex- 
tend lip  the  Andean  elevations  of  thie 
Western  Hemisphere  back  to  Alaska^ 

There  is  method  in  their  terrific  mad- 
ness when  fully  aroutsed.  If  it  were  not 
for  these  great  vents  of  relief  to  tOie  pent 
np  inlestmial  disturbances  of  thie  earth 
we  might  some  fine  day  find  our  ol'liring 
globe  blown  into  a  billion  fragmenits 
Ifhrough  the  realms  of  space. 

Agreeing  with,  our  diplomatic  hero,  even 
volcanoes  have  their  uses.  They  have 
been  known  to  exist  since  the  moat  re- 
mote periods  of  human  history  and  are 
distributed  and  operated  by  immntable 
physical  laws.  In  fact,  the  entire  face  of 
this  sphere  is  pock -pitted  with  their  ex- 
tinct remains. 

It  is  true  that  onr  Alaskan  wonderland 
has  a  goodly  share  of  them  as  it  has  of 
many  other  wonders  of  whidh  I  have  yet 
to  speak  in  justice  to  out  marvellous  ac- 
quisi1:ion  from  our  'jreat  and  good 
friend,"  Alexander  II,  Emperor  of  all 
the  Russias. 

Tliere  is  contemporary  Ruissaan  authori- 
ty that  there  have  existed  since  their  oc- 
cupation of  the  region  no  less  than  sixty 
aiotive  volcanoes.  The  known'  extinct 
volcanoes  would  justify  flii®  numiber  with- 
in the  range  of  Slavic  knowledge  and  a 
great  many  more  previous  to  that  period 
of  recorded  history.  On  the  official'  au- 
thority of  Lyman  E.  Knapp,  Governor  of 
Alaska  in  1891,  at  least  twelve  have 
been  in  operation  since  the  acquisition  of 
the  territory  by  the  United  States,  five 
of  which  were  seen  "in  a  high  staJte  of 
activity,"  by  that  functionaiy  with  his 
own  eyes. 

For  this  reason  I  am  disposed  to  ac- 
cept that  official's  nairration 

As  has  been  shown,  the  bold  elevations 
which  form  the  coast  line  of  Alaska  and 
135 


OVR  ALASKAN 


v»weep  away  oceamvard  through  the 
Alaskan  Peninsula  and  the  under  aoid 
over  ocennic  masisea  of  the  Aleutian  IsIpis 
art  a  eontinuatioa  of  the  Andes  and.  the 
Rockies,  aind  find  their  own  continuation 
in  the  Commandorski  Tslpg  toward  Knint- 
shaltka  and  in  the  Kurile  and  Japanese 
apchipelagos  toward  the  Chinese  mainlflJid 
of  the  double  contiiueDt  of  Asia  and 
Europe. 

The  Alaskan  and  Aleutian  volcanic 
Tent*  constitute  the  most  nnmerous  in  a 
given  area  on  the  globe,  but  unliike  their 
counterparts  elsewhere  the  seiftinatio 
disturbainees  so  prevaJent  in  Jnpnn, 
the  Mediterranean  and  Andean  centres 
are  not  knowm  in  Aiaskan  lands  or 
waters. 

Penetrating  the  mainland  of  Alnskia, 
between  loneitude  150-154  degrees  we«t. 
latitudes  59-61  degrees  north,  is  on©  of 
the  many  indentations  of  the  coast  known 
as  Cook  Tnlct.  Along  the  woistorn  miar- 
gin  extends  n  range  of  lofty  peaks  of  the 
rugged  terminal  masses  erf  the  Rockies 
and  the  coast  range,  which  continue* 
down  the  southeastern  miargin  of  the 
Alaskan  Peninsula  and  tOTver  above  the 
ocean  billows  fromi  the  mighty  sub- 
marine foundations  of  the  Aleutian  range. 

ITie  sight  from  the  navigable  waters  of 
Cook  Inlet  on  the  west  and  toworinir 
orer  the  narrow  strip  between  the  inlet 
and  Lake  Ciflrk  inland  is  the  ever  active 
volcanic  summit  of  Redoubt  Mountain, 
the  first  in  the  line  of  these  wondroiiis 
exhibitions  of  nature.  About  forty  miles 
southwest  is  Illiainnn.  lirrinc  12.(X)<! 
feet  over  the  waters  of  Oook  Inlet,  send- 
ing forth  from  its  frowning  summit  ashes, 
smoke  and  sulphurous  fumos.  Still'  soutb- 
weatward,  about  sixty  miles,  rising  out 
of  the  bhuiding  wntfM-s  of  Cook  Inlet 
and  Shelikoff  Strait,  is  Mount  Au- 
gusti'ne,  whose  intermittent  eruptive 
force  in  1883-4  sent  forth  ashes  which 
fell  on  the  decks  of  vessels  hundreds  of 
miles  at  sea. 

About  380  miles  seaward,     down     this 

Alaskan  Peninsu>a,  on  the  southeastern 

shore,  rear»  the  m'ajestio     Pavlof,  neai 

Belkopsky  Bay.     Over    4,000     feet    Id 

ir>6 


■A 
St- 


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o 

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Il'' 


\ 


WONDEBLAim 


hejglit,  it  cian  be  approadied  to  its  yery 
ba«e  at  Bear  and  Favlof  Bays  by  t«h 
sels. 

From  the  bay  at  intervals  of  a  half 
minute  can  be  seen  issuing  puffs  of  dense 
volumes  of  black  smoke  from  the  fissure 
on  the  craggy  mountain  side  about  1,000 
feet  below  its  pointed  summit,  as  if  fed 
from  the  everlasting  fires  of  the  mighty 
enginiry  of  nature  in  tlie  seethinig  boweLa 
of  the  earth.  After  a  fall  of  snow  a 
blackened  mountain  side  to  the  waters 
edge  at  its  base  is  the  visible  signs  of  the 
volf->!no's  terrible  work. 

'  OSS  Isanatski  Bay  and  Strait,  which 
sei,,  riarte  the  uttermost  point  of  Alaska 
Peninsnla  from  the  first  island  link  in  the 
Aleutian  cliain,  li^  the  cluster  of  smok- 
ing and  steaming  peaks  wliich  forms  won- 
derful TJniimak. 

A  beautiful  cone  of  most  perfect  pro- 
portions, rising  to  the  dizzy  height  of 
8,958  feet  above  the  sea,  whose  rolling 
waters  dash  and  foam  at  its  very  base, 
Shishaldin,  is  the  queen  of  the  plutonic 
family  circle  of  Unimak.  Its  wintry 
mantle  of  snow  glistens  ui>on  the  azure 
canopy  against  which  its  symmeti'ical  out- 
lines are  seen,  while  from  the  rugged  ori- 
fice at  its  pointed  apex  issues  8moke,st6am 
and  aishes.  Less  than  forty  miles  distant, 
near  the  western  end  of  famed  Unimak, 
stands  Pognunanoi,  a  lofty  cone  of  5,523 
feet  above  ttie  sea,  at  its  base,  whose 
fixes  once  so  active  lie  banked  and  silently 
awaiting  a  fresh  awakening  froju  its  pr«s- 
ent  lethargy. 

About  sixty  miles  onward  and  south- 
westward  of  &€ary  Unimak,  rise«  sarvage 
Akutan  on  the  island  of  the  aani«  nam*, 
violently  puffing  at  intervals  of  but  a  few 
seconds  its  dense  black  and  white  smoke 
from  the  monster-like  mouth  at  its  top. 

And  still  forty  miles  farther  on,  as  we 
penetrate  the  mysterious  blank  of  waters, 
we  come  to  Makuishim,  another  of  these 
mysterious  vents  of  steam  and  whit« 
smoke  on  the  Island  of  Unalaska^  which 
can  be  seen  fifty  miles  at  sea. 

Due  west  of  Unalaska  100  miles,  jutting 
out  of  the  blue  waters  of  Bering  Sea  from 
a  measiiic«d  depth  of  725  to  1,263  fathoms, 
137 


I 


OVR  ALASKAN 


7-   \ 


•■J 


' '  >: 


oqr  six  times  that  in  feet  depth  of  water, 
is  the  terrible  Bogoslof.  This  infant  islnjid 
of  the  miigtty  deep  rising  600 
feet  above  the  billowy  anrface. 
emits  columns  of  smoke  and 
steam  Mth  alarming  force  from  in- 
mimeirable  fissures  in  the  surface,  of 
broken  rocks  and  friable  matter.  And 
the  still  more  wonderful  record  of  thia 
mysterious  islet  is  that  the  accouchement 
of  the  sea  has  brought  this  smokinp  steam- 
ing, stDl  uplifting  progeny  from  the  bed 
of  Beriuig's  waters  within  the  recent  recol- 
lection of  man. 

On  the  Island  of  TJnimak,  forty  miles 
souths  stands  silent  Tulik  and  Vsevidof, 
8,000  feet  in  height,  whose  farmer  ac- 
tivity now  remains  quiescent. 

Farther  pursuing  our  ocean  course 
eouthwestward  abmiit  sixty  miles  on  the 
easternmost  of  the  Islands  of  Four  Moun- 
tainis,  which  stretch  still  southwestward 
toward  the  Pacific  limit  of  United  States 
jurisdiction  18  degrees  away,  rises  th« 
Island  of  Kagamil.  A  low  mountain  near 
the  water's  edge,  it  sends  forth  from  nu- 
merous opening's  jets  of  sulphur- 
ous steam  and  raephitic  gases.  So 
powerful,  it  is  recorded,  are  these 
noxious  emissions  that  the  exploring 
steamer  Elsie  in  1874  was  compelled  to 
stamd  off  shore  to  avoid  fatal  consequen- 
oes.  So  feaiTcd  is  this  seat,  where  in  truth 
Ms  Satanic  Majesty  might  reign  in  suit- 
able mundane  suTroraidings,  that  naviga- 
tors very  rarely  visit  it. 

At  this  point  the  Alaskan  and  Aleutian 
volcanoes  disappear  to  rise  again  in  vapor 
from  sub-mainne  volcanoes  south  of  Nipon 
of  the  Japan  Islands  2,500  miles  to  the 
south-west  OT  from  the  summits  of  Mauna 
liOa  on  our  latest  territorial  possessions, 
the  isles  of  Hawaii,  2,250  miles  to  the 
southw  ,      , 

It  is  an  interesting  feature  of  the 
Hawaiian  acquisition  that  the  tie«  of  po- 
litical strategic  and  economic  interest*  be- 
tween the  mid-Pacific  archipelago  and 
the  United  States  were  not  alone  a  logi- 
cal outgrowth,  but  their  seema  to  be 
a  possible  relationship  of  their  volcanic 
energiee.  The  famous  Kilanea  ia  known 
188 


WONDERLAND 


to  haive  eruptive  periods  of  aboiit  nine 
yeairs.  The  scientific  concluaion  of  thia  ia 
that  it  requires  that  space  of  time  to  fill 
the  crater  to  a  depth  of  400  to  500  feet 
before  an  outbreak  can  occur.  In  1808 
there  happened  an  interval  of  eighteen 
years  which  led  to  the  inference  that  the 
intervening  eniption  was  Buh-marine. 

Scientific  inquiry  will  doubtless  now 
draw  its  own  conclusions  upon  thie  rela- 
tion and  tendency  of  the  volcanic  ener- 
gies which  are  so  numerous  and  constant 
on  the  islands  and  shores  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean. 

How  instructive  to  contemplate,  these 
mighty  upheaving  subterranean  fires 
standing  for  countless  ages  like  seretinels 
over  the  solitudes  of  the  Polar,  the  Ber- 
ing and  the  Pacific  Seas,  now  dawning 
into  comimercial  and  industria'.i  activity 
and  importance  under  the  Aegis  of  the 
young  and  stalwart  Republic  of  the 
West. 

Of  thfc  'dthor  volcanic  vents  to  which 
it  may  be  i -iitoresting  to  refer  in  connec- 
tion with  our  own  wondrous  equipment 
in  Alaska,  Aleutia  and  Hawaii,  the  first 
of  commanding  interest  whi(  h  we  en- 
counter, is  Popocatapetl,  in  the  Sierras 
of  Mexico,  lifting  its  flames  heavenward 
to  great  height  and  pouring  out  its  over- 
flowing lava  in  streams  when  active. 

Then  comes  in  our  soutbwardi  course 
terrific  Cosequina,  in  Nicaragua.  This 
energetic  outlet  at  brief  intervals  fi'ls  the 
air  with  ashes  and  darkness  for  days  for 
a  radius  of  thirty-five  miles.  Its  dread 
deposits  cover  an  area  of  270  geograph- 
ical miles  va  diameter  a  depth  of  ten  feet, 
nnd  its  ashes  have  been  carried  in  the 
upper  air  currents  as  far  as  Jamaica,  700 
miles  distant. 

Then,  .southward,  comes  the  mountain 
giaimts,  Chimborazo  and  Ootopaxi,  of  the 
Kcuadoronn  cluster,  the  latter  by  the 
dynamic  force  of  its  subterranean  gases 
hurling  200-ton  blocks  of  stone  nine  miles. 
Then  the  famed  Antuco,  of  the  Chilian 
sy^tera^  sending  stonies  thirty-iix  miles 
away,  and  Acoiicnqua.  of  the  name  s'vs- 
tem,  rising  proudly  in  view  from  Val- 
paraiso. Then,  in  mid-Pacific,  the  famed 
139 


m 


OUR  ALASKAN 


Sioa,  of  the  Friendly  lB!e«,  Tofue,  in  tlie 
Moluccas,  whidi,  erince  the  earliest 
knowledge  of  the  Western  navipatorii  of 
those  mysterious  seas  never  ceased  tci  il- 
lumine their  dangerous  way.  Theace, 
northward,  to  the  seismic  focus  of  the 
Japan  Island,  thence  westward  to  the 
Mud  volcanoes,  400  feet  in  height,  on  the 
lower  Indus  and  westward  the  same  up- 
heavals, over  1,000  square  miles,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Caspian. 

We  now  reach  enchanting  Stromboli,  in 
the  Mediterranean,  by  which  I  haive  sail- 
ed both  by  day  and  by  night.  Tills  mar- 
velous handiwork  of  nature  has  lighted 
with  its  eternal  fires  within  the  range 
of  human  know.''edge  the  galleys  of  an- 
cient Phoenecia,  Greece,  Rome  and 
Carthage  as  it  does  the  ocean  greyihounds 
of  to-day.  It  is  the  barometer  of  the 
sturdy  fishermen  of  the  Lipari  and  n^l- 
jacent  isles,  the  condition  of  ita  eternal 
fires  indicating  the  changes  from  oalln 
to  storm.  In  this  vicinity  are  enthroned 
those  volcanic  Titans,  Vesuvius,  in  Na- 
ples, and  Etna  in  Sicily,  the  former  the 
resort  of  thousands  of  American  tourists, 
besides  its  uses  in  nature  a  godsend  pecu- 
niarily to  the  inhabitarots  of  those  sterile 
sihores,  as  I  can  testify  from  personal 
knowledge  of  both.  Then  to  the  dust- 
distributing  Arctic  monster,  Skaptar  Jo- 
kul'l,  of  Iceland,  w<hich,  with  favoring 
winds  sends  it*  destructive  particlies  as 
far  as  Scotland  and  Holland. 

Our  Alaskan  wonderland,  as  a  conse- 
quence of  the  eternal  fires  of  its  eubter- 
ranean  furnaces,  has  its  thermal  springs 
in  addition  to  those  which  are  mineral  in 
character. 

The  largo  Sulphur  Iodine  SpringH, 
twelve  miles  from  Sitka,  are  even  now 
largely  patronized  for  th«ir  remedial  quali- 
ties in  many  diseases.  The  Hoonah 
Springs,  also  celebrated  for  their  healing 
effect  of  their  waters,  are  less  famous  only 
on  account  of  the  inconvenience  of  reach- 
ing them. 

It  is  also  known  that  there  are  hot 

miarisihes  and,  a  lake  of  sulphur  in  the 

Plutonic  domain     of     Unimak     Island. 

There  is  also  a  warm  lake  "offidally  re- 

140 


WONDERLAND 


ported"  on  the  Upper  Tananna.  There 
are  also  hot  springs,  some  of  them  boil- 
ing, <m  the  Islands  of  Unalaska,  Atka, 
Akun,  Kagamil  and  Nanaga  and  even 
more  numerous  un  the  main   land. 

As  science  and  exploration  unfold  the 
still  uorevealed  mysteries  of  our  Alala- 
kan  wonderland  all  these  manreloua 
\7orkB  of  the  Creator  willi  be  fully  re- 
vealed to  an  astoniisihed  world  and 
brought  into  economic  relation  to  the  ne- 
oossities  and  ailments  of  man. 

The  geysers  of  our  own  Yellowstomie 
^  nk  with  the  same  phjrsieal  phenomena 
of  Iceland.  The  thermal  springs  of 
Akska  outnumber  and  outdo  in  volume 
tliKkse  of  our  own  Arkamsan  and  Virginian 
•ources  of  supply,  doubtless  heated  by 
Alaskan  fires.  They  even  exceed  the 
European  waters  supplied  from  Icelandic 
boilfing  springs  or  warmed  by  Vesuvian 
or  Sicilian  fires. 

So  that  whatever  population  may  in  the 
progress  of  years  colonize  and  accumulate 
in  Alaska  and  its  adjacent  isles,  that  por- 
tion of  our  fellow-citizens,  it  majr  be  said, 
will  not  be  exceptif^ne  in  experiences  to 
their  fellow-beings  iii  other  regions  of  the 
globe  similarly  supplied  with  these  terrific 
mountain!  wonders,  health-giving  waters 
and  strange  sources  of  daily  occupation 
and  remunerative  profit. 

The  outlook  of  the  future  in  our  Alas- 
kan possessions  does  not  require  the 
etimuluis  of  a  very  lively  imagination  in 
order  to  picture  a  few  convenient  resorts 
for  summer  tourists  into  the  wierd  re- 
gions of  ice  and  fire. 

It  might  have  been  said  of  Southern 
California  in  early  days.  Now  we  find 
some  of  the  finest  hostelries  in  the  coun- 
try in  different  parts  of  that  health-yield- 
ing region. 

The  summer  tourist  to  Alaska  is  not 
even  now  a  novelty.  Tliat  wonderful  re- 
gion has  been,  a  favorite  outing  for  a  num- 
ber of  OTir  people  for  some  years. 

The  stimulus,  however,  of  reoenit  and 
prosi>ective  events  is  likely  to  make  our 
fellow-citizens  more  familiar  with  our 
Alaskan  Wonderland  than  they  have 
been. 

141 


ICY  UBORIIORIES, 


U/MM^'. 


LETTER  NUMBER  VIII. 


The  Glacial  Theory  of  Continent 
Bnilc''ng  in  Operation. 


s, 


Ice    Cakes  of   Europe   Compared 

With    Ice  Torrents  and    Ice 

Seas  of  Alaska. 


A   Bond  of  Frozen   Rivers   from  Fririd 

Aerial  Solitudes  to   Melting  Sea 

Levels. 


Cold  Storage  f<«r  Pacific  CommouTrealtfas 


The  amny  of  "clobe  trotterfi"  of  the 
United  States  and  the  scoutii);^  parties  of 
touirists  oL  England  and  the  Continent  in 
the  past  have  satisfied  their  lovo  of  tiie 
wonderful  in  the  higher  altitudes  of  the 
eai-th'a  ci'ust  in  the  little  Alpine  Republic 
of  Switzei-'and,  with  an  occasional  diver- 
sion in  tbe  direction  of  the  higher  lati- 
tudes of  Norway,  where  the  marvellous 
accumulations  and  fantastic  forms  of 
ice  and  snow  constitute  an  impor'.aiit  fea- 
ture in  the  landscape. 

There  ore  other  mountain  giants  in  tlie 

world   which  rear   theii-  majestic   heads 

high  up  into  the  skyward  strata  of     the 

'vlmospihiere  from  which  we  draw  our  life 

143 


'if' 

\\ 

il 


m 


J 


01722  ALASKAN 

breath,  but  in  none  of  them  do  we  find  to 
a  cO'Eii)arable  extent  those  remarkable 
frozen  maisses  known  to  physical  geo- 
graphy as  glaciers,  as  in  out  own  Alaska. 

It  may  not  be  amiss  to  say  by  way  of 
detail  to  the  vague  view  that  many  en- 
tertain of  the  real  significance  of  a 
glacier,  that  it  iB  a  river  of  ice  slowly  de- 
Bcendins  the  mountain  side. 

It  originates  as  a  frozen  mass  of  snow 
in  the  hollowis  of  the  mountainis  above 
the  line  of  peTpetunl  cougealation.  It 
then  becomes  conisolidated  and  hardened 
by  a  pressure  beyond  the  range  of  human 
conception  in  tons  and  is  further  com- 
pacted and  solidified  by  freezing  water. 

It  descends  from  its  birthplace  of 
everlasting  solitude  and  ice  through  the 
valleys  Ln  the  mountain  till  it  reaches  in 
its  de«icent  the  line  of  temperature  where 
melting  begins.  In  its  frozen  course, 
with  a  movement  in  Alaskan  glaciers  of 
20  to  30  feet  a  day,  it  brings  down  earth, 
stones  and  rubbish,  generally  termed 
moraine.  These  enormous  transported 
deposits  mark  the  limit  of  the  glaciers 
mighty  march.  Sometimes  abnormal  con- 
ditions  forcing  the  ice  mass  beyond  its 
previous  limits,  shoves  foi-ward  the  turf, 
uproots  trees  and  overwhelms  everything 
in  its  path/way.  This  is  the  glacial  pi'o- 
cess  of  continent  making. 

These  catastrophies  ai'e  not  uncommon 
in  Switzerland  and  Norway. 

The  lower  ends,  through  melting,  as^ 
sume  many  famtastic  forms  and  reflect 

grismatic  hues  from  the  effect  of  sun- 
ght. 

The  antipodal  products  of  Nature's 
Alaskan  laboratorieer  grow  more  replete 
with  wonder  as  we  pursue  our  course  of 
fact  and  narration.  The  volcanic  fires 
of  Unimak  and  the  isles  and  mainland  of 
Alaska,  the  thermal  waters  of  Barauoff, 
the  hot  marshes,  boiling  pools,  sulphur- 
o\m  ponds  and  limpid  lakes  have  passed 
before  our  wondering  fancies. 

Now  we  ascend  to  the  heavenward 
silence  of  great  mountain  tops  to  contem- 
plate what  we  find  there  to  add  to  the 
long  category  of  Nature's  handiwork  in 
our  Alaskan  Wonderland. 
144 


WOTifDERLATJD 

The  atealmero  which  ply  in  Alaskan 
waters,  taking  their  depairture  from  San 
Francisco,  Portland  or  Seattle,  or  from 
oitr  cross  border  foreign  city  of  Victoria, 
afteir  skipping  the  gap  in  our  western 
littoral  occupied  by  British  Columbia 
from  latitude  49  to  Dixon  entrance  at  the 
famous  latitude  "54-40  or  fight,"  again 
enter  the  jurisdiction  of  the  United 
States. 

Then<!e  they  can  take  the  outside 
waters  of  the  Pacific  or  one  of  the  en- 
chanting inlamd  marine  ways  of  Southr- 
eowtem  Alaska  until  they  reach  where 
Lynn  Oanal  and  Icy  S^ait  blend  their 
waters. 

The  former  would  bear  us  to  head- 
waters at  the  foot  of  Chilkat  and  Chil- 
koot  Passes,  and  the  modem  miner's  out- 
fitting town  of  Dyea,  leaving  Juneau,  its 
rival,  on  the  right  at  the  head  of  Steph- 
en's Paissage  and  the  latter  into  Glacier 
Bay,  in  the  very  heart  of  the  mighty 
snowy  glacier  making  masses  of  the  St. 
Elias  Range. 

There  we  would  find  ourselves  on  the 
frontiers  of  a  glacier  land  unrivalled  in 
the  woi'ld. 

Along  the  waterways  from  the  Taku 
River  and  its  outlet  into  Stephen's  Pas- 
sage in  latitude  58-30  degrees  to  GO-30 
we  traverse  shores  lined  with  mountains 
of  giddy  height,  the  home  of  glaciers,  foot 
ihills  of  moraine  and  a  soil  carpetted  by 
sphagnum,  a  sub-Arctic  variety  of  bog 
moes. 

The  monarch  of  the  glacial  masses  of 
this  region  occupy  the  elevations  of  eter- 
nal Siiiow  which  overlook  Glacier  Bay, 
with  Muir  as  the  largest  and  the  cluster 
of  towering  summits  grouped  about  St. 
BHas,  at  the  foot  of  vbich  spreads  the 
enormous  ice  mass  of  the  Malaspina 
Glacier. 

Tlie  region  covering  3  degrees  of  sea- 
co«,i9t  and  lying  within  the  ten  marine 
league  limit  of  United  States  jui-isdiction, 
covers  an  area  of  ovei'  210  by  30  miles, 
or  0,300  square  miles,  nearly  one-half  the 
entire  area  of  the  mountain  Republic  of 
Switzerland,  and  but  little  short  of  the 

145 


m 


l;-i- 


f: 


I* 


\\ 


^'  if!' 


^ 


0175  ALASKAN 


I  I 


II 


(i  I 


III 

II' 


size  of  OUT  own  moimtain  CommoiiiiWealth, 
New  Hampshire. 

As  we  approach  the  Pair  weather 
Range  of  moiintains  from  tlie  south  in 
latitude  58-20  north  and  longitude  135-30 
west,  on  the  starboard,  in  the  vocabulary 
of  navigation,  right,  may  be  descried  a 
narrow  chainnel  known  as  Icy  Strait. 
Within  the  portals  of  this  outlet  of  frigid 
waters  into  Cross  Sound,  one  of  the  nu- 
merous estuai'ies  of  the  Pacific  along  the 
Alaskan  Coast  line,  lies  Glacier  Bay  an- 
other of  the  many  wondea^  of  our  Alas- 
kan Wonderland. 

Thie  bay  itself  is  obouit  50  miles  in 
length  and  5  to  10  miles  in  width,  with 
an  area  of  330  square  miles.  Its  mar- 
ginal fringe  of  mountains  in  themselves 
of  no  mean  altitude,  is  thrown  in  the 
shade  by  the  towering  summits  of  Fair 
weather  15,292  feet,  Perouse  10,<40, 
CuUom  15,9r^  and  Lituya  11,832,  the 
bii'thplace  of  enormous  masses  of  ice 
which  give  tie  bay  its  name. 

The  sun-set  effects,  owing  to  the  trend 
of  the  bay,  show  out  marvelous  toucht^a 
of  light  and  shade  from  the  somhrenesB  of 
the  evening  shadows  of  summer  to  the 
fii-vlike  glcw  sent  down  through  the 
trough  of  the  mountains  to  touch  with  its 
tints  the  islets  in  the  water. 

The  weird  grandeur  cf  the  scone  is  in- 
desoribahle.  In  many  parts  the  lime*stonie 
rock,  polished  and  scratched  by  the  gla- 
eiers'  irresistible  flow,  can  be  touched 
from  a  boat  at  the  water's  edge.  The 
outlet  but  2%  miles  in  width,  carries  in 
and  out  every  aix  hours  water  enough  to 
change  the  ^evel  18  to  20  feet.  This  means 
about  one  Cvtbic  mile  of  waiter  rushing 
through  fotir  times  a  day. 

The  i"oek  masses  peculiar  to  the  bay, 
some  500  feet  high,  have  canals  gouged 
through  them,  separating  maeses  of  3,000 
feet  long  from  the  mountain.  The 
islands,  some  of  sand  and  some  of  lime- 
stone or  elate,  range  from  the  merest 
sijecks  to  Sy^  miles  long.  The  higher 
elevations  are  bare  of  vegetation.  Lower 
down  are  patches  of  horse  tails  and 
dwarf  willows.  Between  Muir  and 
Tidal  Inlet  the  mounrtain  sides  axe  green 
146 


i 


WONDERLAND 


wealth, 

eather 
nth  in 
135-30 
lulary 
Tied  a 
Strait. 

frigid 
He  nu- 
ng  tlie 
ay  an- 

Alas- 


and  supply  grazing-  for  numerons  wiM 
goat  and  ground  hogs,  while  shuibbery  of 
alder  and  cottonwood  15  feet  high  fur- 
nish cover  for  the  beautiful^  white  and 
grey  ptarmigan. 

On  the  opposite  shore  wild  st  •awberries 
are  abundant  in  August.  In  some  of  the 
coves  coniferous  trees  chiefly  spruce, 
thrive  at  1,500  to  2,000  feet  above  the 
tide. 

The  bay  has  numerous  inletsi  and  tribu- 
tary vailleys  amoo^  its  many  characteris- 
tics extending  10  miles  inland,  from  which 
icebergs  are  in  full  view. 

Of  the  23  distinct  glaciers  visible  from 
the  waters  of  Glacier  Bay,  that  known  as 
Muir  is  the  largest  and  most  important. 
It  is  visible  20  miles  down  the  bay  as  an 
ice  cliff.  Vessels  can  anchor  within 
three-fourths  of  a  mile  and  can  8team< 
within  200  yards  of  its  radiant  vertical 
wall  of  ice,  200  feet  hi^,  which  extends 
a  distance  of  2  milesi  in  length.  Such  a 
spectacle  in  nature  does  not  exist  outside 
of  Alaska  elsewhere  m  the  world. 

The  Dying  Glacier,  nearby,  shows  the 
vast  operations  of  slow  diminuation  of 
one  of  these  mighty  ice  kings.  The 
siheer  mountains  afford  no  place  for  land- 
ing. Hundreds  of  tons  of  rock  have 
broken  off  and  disappeared  in  the  waters. 
Streams  dash  down  the  mountains  from 
mysterious  snow  masse'i  buried  in  the  air 
out  of  view.  Some  ha  ve  disappeared  into 
chasms  in  the  limestone  and  burst  forth, 
again   from  openings  in  the  cliffs. 

The  Twin  Glaciers  unite  their  immense 
ice  streams  4  miles  inJand.  Here  and 
there  an  iceberg  floats  off  amd  in  the  dis- 
tance may  be  seen  fle<H;y  Fairweather  and 
douible-crested  Lituya. 

To  describe  a;ll  the  wonders  of  Glacier 
Bay  and  its  glaciers  would  make  a  vol- 
ume replete  with  interest. 

The  following  tr.ble  will  afford  some 
idea  of  the  dimensions  of  eight  of  the 
largest,  as  given  ofliciaMy  by  Mr.  Reid,  of 
the  United  States  Geological  Survey: 

The  Muir  Glacier  is  9,200  feet  broad, 

exclusive  of  its  immense  wings,  with  a 

depth  of  water  720  feet  and  height  of  ice 

front  from  130  to  210  feet     Th  >  thick- 

147 


Vi 

1 


\]  '0 


OUR  ALASKAN 


I 


I        I    : 


neaa  of  the  ice  at  the  glacier's  end  ia 
900  feet 

The  Grand  Pacific,  western  end,  is  8,- 
200  feet  broad  and  has  135  to  190  feet 
height  of  ice  front.  The  John  Hopkins, 
Hugh  Miller,  Oarroll,  eike,  Charpentier, 
Grand  Pacific  (eastern  end),  and  Rendu 
range  from  3,000  to  6,600  feet  in  breadth 
to  200  feet  ice  fixmt,  and  some  of  them 
700  feet  thick. 

Another  novelty  of  the  shores  of  this 
bay  are  tie  buried  forest,  which  show  a 
heavy  growth  of  trees  on  the  c'lays  of 
the  bay  50  to  75  feet  above  tide,  which, 
in  the  irresistible  process  of  nature  by 
flood  and  ice,  were  bnried  in  places  20 
feet  in  sand  and  gravel'  brought  down  in 
the  ice  streams.  In  the  Muir  Inlet  the 
ice  was  8,000  feet  thick  and  at  the  upper 
end  1,000  thicker. 

These  great  masses  were  described  by 
Vaoeouver  100  years  ago  and  have  not 
materiaJily  chatmged. 

The  retreat  of  the  glaciers,  it  is  com- 
puted, began  about  150  yearn  since,  judg- 
mg  by  the  morainal  deposits  and  ravines 
and  descriptions  of  contemporary  navi- 
gators. The  retreat  and  increase  of  the 
inJets  is  still  going  on  i)ercept?b'.y  to  sci- 
entific research.  The  region  around  the 
bay  trending  northeast  and  sonthwest  is 
declared  by  eminent  authorities  like  H. 
Fielding  Reid  as  marking  the  direction  of 
the  growth  of  the  western  part  of  the 
continent  we  inhabit. 

CJontinuing  our  course  through  Cross 
Sound,  into  the  open  ocean,  skirting  the 
forest-fringed  rshore,  where  lofty  moum- 
tains  and  gliateniag  glaciers  form  the 
background,  in  59-40,  we  reach  Ocean 
Cape,  rounding  which  we  enter  Yakutat 
Bay,  a  aipacimis  inlet  on  the  northern 
i^ore  of  which  and  stretching  landward 
and  oceanward.  is  the  mightiest  monarch 
of  the  compact  ice  miasses  of  the  g'.obe 
south  of  the  Arctic  Circle. 

There  is  no  region  more  replete  with 
the  wondrous  handicraft  of  nature  than 
this.  On  the  one  side  of  the  head  of 
Yakutat,  which  bears  the  name  Disem- 
dhantment  Bay,  a  Wind  extension  of  the 
former  are  weird  forests,  gigantic  moum- 
148 


I 


WONDERLAND 


md  is 

is8,- 
0  feet 
»pkins, 
entier, 
Rendu 
peadth 

them 


tains  piled  up  to  10,000  feet  amd  filled 
with  glaciers.  On  the  other  side,  sweei>- 
ing  from  139-30  to  142  degrees  in  longi- 
tude and  astride  latitude  60  degrees  north 
along  the  north  shores  of  Yakntat  and 
along  the  ocean  shore  to  Icy  Cape,  lies 
that  vast  mass  of  ice  knowm'  on  the  charts 
as   Malaspina   Glacier. 

This  physical  wonder,  fed  by  mighty 
tributary  rivers  of  Ice  from  the  eternal 
solitudes  of  the  mountain  crests  of  the 
Augusta  Range,  St.  Eliaa  and  Logan, 
receives  the  immense  frozen  flood  whidh 
makes  its  way  between  two  distinicit 
ranges  througrh  Seward  Glacier. 

From  Icy  Bay,  where  Yahtse  River 
empties  its  frigid  torrent  into  the  ocean 
the  escarpment  of  the  Chaix  Hills  lies  like 
outworks  to  the  lofty  elevations  beyond. 
After  i)eDetrating  a  few  miles  of  tangled 
forest  and  a  barren  moraine  is  reached, 
the  vast  field  of  ice.  The  mighty  ice 
body,  whidi  introduced,  to  science  thie 
type  of  Piedmont  Glaciers,  is  formed^  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountain  by  the  uniting 
and  expansion  of  ice  streams  from  ad- 
jacent heights.  The  ice  sheet  extends  in 
an  unbroken  compact  mass  from  Yakuitat 
Bay,  70  miles  westward  with  an  average 
breadth  of  25  miles,  about  1,800  square 
tni'es  or  one-eighth  the  whole  area  of 
Switzerland,  a  land  of  glaciers. 

It  is  a  vast  horizontal  plateau  of  ice 
about  1.500  feet  high  about  5  miles  from 
its  water  border.  The  center  is  free 
from  morainal'  dirt  but  dangerously  fis- 
sured with  crevasses.  It  may  be  com- 
pare<l  to  a  lifeless  prairie  of  ice.  From 
its  rolMng  elevations  the  frozen  mass  re- 
cedes in  all  directions.  From  the  moun- 
tains en  its  northern  border  it  sweeps 
beyond  the  ra'^^e  of  vision.  Its  surface 
runs  in  waves,  in  place  of  pyramids  and 
lakelets, 

On  its  outer  fringing  moraines,  near 
the  Seward  Glacier,  whi<*h  rests  on  the 
ice,  it  is  remarkable  to  find  spruce,  eot- 
tonwood,  alder  and  an  endless  variety  of 
shrubbery  in  full  growth.  It  is  estimat- 
ed that  the  ice  beneath  the  crust  which 
eiistaiins  the  dense  forest  is  not  less  than 
1,000  feet  deep.  Marginal  lakes  formed 


149 


r 


n 


V  ;l 


r  ; 


m 


'  <• 


0I7i?  ALASKAN 


by  soiithenn  exposure  are  numerous,  aa 
are  alluvial  cones. 

The  explorations  of  the  future  will 
have  even  more  wonderful  reveliations  to 
make  than  have  been  reported  by  the  ef- 
ficient explorers  of  the  United  States 
GeologicaJ   Survey. 

The  Diaenchjintment  Bay,  an  arm  of 
Yakutat,  fills  a  deep  glaciated  valley,  fed 
by  a  glacier  at  the  head,  about  five  miles 
dist^ant, 

Thie  discoverers,  Malaispina  in.  1791.  and 
Puget  in  1794,  found  at  Hf;ianfce  Islands 
an  ice  wall  which  they  could  not  cross. 

At  the  eastern  end  of  the  bay  an  enor- 
mous glacier  comes  down  to  the  water's 
edge  and  sends  off  many  bergs.  At  Cape 
Enchantment  boats  can  rxm.  alongside 
of  the  fronting  precipiccts. 

There  are  three  of  these  glaciers  in  this 
region  which  reach  the  wafer's  edge  and 
send  ofF  bergs. 

Mr.  Israel  C  Russel  in  his  official  re- 
port to  the  National  Survey,  gives  a  vivid 
picture  of  the  magnificence  of  this  re- 
gion. 

"When  this  splendid  inlet  becomes  a 
resort  for  tourist^s  as  it  must  in  the  near 
future,  there  are  four  points  which  should 
be  visited,  Kaenke  and  Oiser  Islands  and 
Oapes  Enchantmenit  and  Sto»s.  *  * 
From  these  points  the  scenery  of  the  bay 
is  magnificent,"  possessing  all  the  splen- 
dors of  Lynn  Canal  with  "the  added 
charm  of  vast  snow  covered  ranges"  pre- 
senting every  variety  and  novelty  of  gla- 
cilal  scenery. 

It  is  also  marvelous  that  the  larg(wt 
ocean  steamer  may  safely  venture  to  the 
head  of  the  inlet  aind  all  the  time  have  in 
view  "magnificent  scenery  the  like  of 
which  has  r:?^'er  been  seen  by  those  who 
have  not  been  fortun.iito  enough  to  visit 
Alaska." 

Our  scieii'iific  official  authority  adds: 
"Scarcely  a  cloud  obscured  the  sky.  The 
m'ajesd^ic  mountains  with  their  brilliant 
snow  fields  and  hundreds  of  shiining  gla- 
ciers, which  rise  abruftly  from  the  sliKirc 
all  the  way  to  Cross  rsound,  were  in  fuh 
view.    A  more  enjoyable  Qceau  trip  than 

160 


WONDERLAND 


aa 


the  voyage  along  the  sublime  Pairweathcir 
coast,  when  the  sea  is  smooth  and  the 
mountains  unclouded,  caa  scarcely  be  im- 
agined and  ppobebly  does  not  exist." 

It  may  be  instructive  by  way  of  compar- 
ison with  OUT  home  glacial  "industry"  to 
add  that  the  Swiss  Alpine  glaciers  range 
from  20  to  ^  miles  in  length  with  a 
breadth  of  two  or  three  miles  and  a  depth 
of  000  foet. 

The  ^^alaspina  glacier  of  Alaska  is  as 
wide  OS  the  longest  of  the  Swisis  aamples, 
nearly  three  times  the  length  and  720  feet 
deep. 

TTie  glaciers  of  Greenland  within  tho 
Arctic  circle  and  Alaska  at  Malaspina, 
7  degrees  below  it,  are  the  only  ones  un> 
less  they  exist  in  the  Antarctic  Circle, 
which  extend  into  the  sea  and  break  off, 
floating  away  in  the  ocean  currents  as 
icebergs.  The  Rhone  and  Aar  glaciers; 
the  glacier  of  the  Bernese  Oberland;  the 
Grindwald  with  it.«t  Mer  de  Glace;  Jung- 
frau,  queen  of  the  Bernese  Alps;  the 
Eiger,  Wetterhom,  and  the  glacier  of 
Bonsons  at  Chamoiuii  are  the  finest 
types  of  the  Swiss  group. 

The  Alpine  heights  of  Austria^  France 
and  Italy  also  have  thier  icy  wonders. 
The  largest  Alpine  glacier  is  the  Grosi 
Aletsch  in  the  Bernese  Oberland,  fifteen 
miles  long,  with  a  maximum  breadth  of 
little  over  a  mile,  its  basin  being  50  squai-e 
miles.  This  even  is  but  a  huge  cake  of 
ice  compared  with  our  own  Alaskan  Mal- 
aspiiia,  which  is  nearly  five  times  pa  long 
and  nearly  twenty  times  as  broad  and  thir- 
ty-sdx  tinios  the  area. 

In  Noivvay,  about  the  siame  latitude, 
are  some  interesting  exhibitions  of  snow 
masses,  the  larges.t  of  which  are  Justedal 
and  Folegejou,  but  neither  bear  any  com- 
parison to  our  own  Alaskan  monarch, 
Malaspina. 

The  Alaskan  glaciers  of  Glacier,  Yaku- 
tat  and  Disenchantment  Bays  have  the 
advantage  of  being  seen  at  close  range 
frtsm  the  decks  of  luxurious  steamers 
which  are  even  now  largely  patronized  by 
summer  tourists  to  our  Alaskan  Wonder- 
land. 

151 


i 


^1 

■I 


OVR  ALABKAN 

gladers  in  sigbt  from  Lynn  Oamal  alone, 
which  do  not  take  into  account  the  im- 
mense ice  masees  of  Glacier  and  Yakutat 
Bays  and  Flairweather  and  St.  Elias 
mountains.  Poesibly  as  the  mysteries  of 
the  inland  are  revealed  they  wUl  be  num- 
bered by  hundreds  instead  of  by  scores. 

The  interested  peoples  of  the  world 
have  been  entertained  since  science  and 
narrwtion  became  an  art  with  exhaustive 
tnatises  on  -the  glaciers  of  Switzerland, 
Austria,  Italy,  France,  Norway  end 
other  portions  of  the  globe  where  such 
manifestations  of  n'ature  appear. 

The  study  of  our  own  AJaskan  product 
will  show  thiem  to  be  the  most  extensive 
and  interesting  of  any  on  the  globe  south 
of  the  Arcrtie  or  north  of  the  Antarctic 
Circles. 

There  is  no  region  of  glaciers  compara- 
ble to  that  from  OWlkat  Inlet,  longitude 
135  degrees,  to  Cook  Inlet,  152  west  and 
60  degrees  north,  nearly  700  miles.  This 
icy  stretc'h  embr'aces  the  groups  of  Glacier 
and  Yakutat  Days.  From  Yakutat  Bay 
to  Copper  River,  a  distance  of  about  250 
miles,  is  almost  an  unbroken  ice  sheet 
Whidi  embraces  the  mighty  Malaspimi, 
"Bering,  Miles  and  Childs  landlocked  soaa 
of  ioa  Science  clearly  demonstrates  thiat 
before  the  period  of  recorded  narraition  of 
this  region  there  existed  a  mighty  ice 
wall  along  this  coast  wiith  cnonnous  cav- 
ernous ioe  depths  like  cystal  caves, 
througli  which  the  inland  torrents  of  the 
mountains  forced  their  irresistible  way 
into  the  great  ocean. 

But  all  this  grandeur  of  ice  scenery  in 
our  own  Alaska  possesses  an  economic 
as  well  as  scenic  value. 

The  vast  stretch  of  ocean  shoire  from 
the  Tropic  of  Capricorn  on  the  south  to 
Cancer  and  even  to  50  degrees  latitude 
on  the  north,  over  70  degrees,  about  5,000 
statute  mUes,  is  without  a  home  supply 
of  ice  for  domestic  and  commerciail  pur- 
poses. 

The  few  remote  localities  in  the  highest 
altitude,  where  it  does  form,  are  inacces- 
sible and  unsuitable.  In  Alaska  on  the 
liarger  isands  are  numerous  limpid  lakes 
with  water  of  the  purest  health  imparting 
152 


WONDERLAND 


il  alouie, 
the  im- 
Yakutat 
;t.   Elias 
terieis  of 
be  num- 
scores. 
le   world 
mce  and 
ihnustive 
tzerland, 
jvay   and 
ere  such 

1  product 
extensive 
>be  south 
A.nitarctic 

coonpara- 
longitude 
wesit  and 
lea.    This 
of  Glacier 
Lutat  Bay 
about  250 
ice  sheet 
lalaspinia, 
icked  seaa 
rates  thlat 
.rraition  ot 
li^hty  ice 
mous  cav- 
al     caves, 
>nt8  of  the 
itible   way 


There  are  official  reports  of  over  60 
quality  and  convenient  to  navigable 
water  in  winter  w  icb;  axe  even  mnv 
being  utilized  as  an  ice  supply  for  our  own 
States  and  other  seiaside  cities  along  th« 
Pacific  cxMBt  into  and  beyond  ae  Amori- 
oan  tropical  zone. 


$ 


scenery  in 
L  economic 

iboire  from 
Le  south  to 
les  latitude 
ibout  5,000 
>me  supply 
lercial  pur- 

the  highest 
ire  inacces- 
iska  on  tlie 
impid  lakes 
h  inii>arting 


153 


t       !      ' 


W 


W 


1 


[i 


ift 


LETTER  NUMBEJl  XIV. 


Mercury  on  the  Jump  from  80 
Below  to  87  Above  Zero. 


Annual  Mean  Climatic  Scale  44  at 
Sitka  to  7.7  at  Point  Barrow. 


The  Scandinavian  Kingdom  in  the  Same 

Latitude    With    Seven    Millions    of 

People,  and  No  Golden  Sands. 


Inflneuoe    of  the  Mld-Oceau   Rlver^    tbe 
Klro  Sl^vo. 


The  extremes  of  moimtains  of  fire  and 
aeas  of  ice  on  land  find  their  counter  part 
in  the  extremes  of  temperature  in  the  at- 
mosphere of  the  coast  and  the  interior. 
TIhe  common  Imowledge  of  the  climatic 
conditioD*  of  Alaaka  are  mosrtly  deriYfd' 
from  whaling  logs  and  the  desultory  tales 
of  the  h*rdy  "salts"  who  have  toased 
(about  upon  those  tempest  aoue  seae  har- 
poaning  whales  or  catching  and  can- 
nlnig  salmon  and  gathering  other  abundant 
marketable  products  of  Alaskan  waters. 
It  therefore  blew  hot  or  cold,  aocordin|r 
to  the  tempwal  environments  and  experi- 
oncea  of  the  individual  in  evideiooe. 
155 


1^1 


l<  '    ' 


ii! 


OVR  ALABE±7!f 

The  dimatology  of  Aliaska,  however, 
derives  its  scienitific  and  official*  sources 
of  authority  from  Russian  records  com- 
menced as  early  as  1827  at  Unalaaka, 
1828  at  Sitka,  from  incideotaJ  soureca  at 
Point  Barrow  1852,  Fort  Yukon  3863, 
Fort  Wrangell  1868,  Kadiak  1809.  and 
from  United  States  Signal  Service 
sources  at  Unalaska  1872  and  Sitka  1881, 
aind  since  at  tho»e  and  other  pointi. 

Th*  gulf  stream  of  the  Atlantic  which 
makes  the  British  Issles  and  northera 
(jrormany  in  the  laititudes  of  Southeaetem 
Aliaska,  and  Norway  and  Sweden  in  thie 
still  higher  latitudes  of  Western  Alaska, 
the  centres  of  lar^e  i>optilation  and  the 
highest  advances  m  intelleetua]'  and  in- 
dustrial expansion,  find*  it  counrteipart  in 
the  Kiro  Siwo  or  Japan  stream  of  the 
Pacific. 

That  mighity  mid-ocean  river  of  waann 
waters,  beginning  in  the  tropical  seas  of 
China  and  the  Phillipines  sweeping:  off 
the  south  coiaat  of  Japan  follows  the  Aleu- 
tian chain  imtil  it  "impiajrotP."  oltioially 
speaking,  "on  the  coast  of  British  Ool- 
umbia,  one  branch  Sowing  ijoiihward  to- 
ward Sitka  and  thence  westw  vrd  to  the 
Kadiak  and  Shumagin  Islands,  off  the 
Alaskan  Peniiisula,  the  othei  curving 
(southward  and  westward  toward  Haw- 
aii." 

This  current,  di-viding  on  the  eastern 
end  of  the  Aleutian  chain  of  islands,  ex- 
tends northward,  which  wiM  explain  the 
absence  of  ice  drifting  southward,  as  we 
find  it  comim?  down  Davis  Straits  from 
Greenland.  It  is  also  the  moist  airs  of 
this  same  warm  eurront  drifting  landwaivl 
Which  causes  the  enormous  amount  of 
fog  and  precipitation  in  the  form  of  rain. 

The  liumerous  islands  which  lie  off  Ij'nie 
Alaskan  mainland  from  Dixon  entrance 
to  the  northward  and  the  corresponding 
coasi:  line  to  the  western  extremity  of 
Alaska  enjoys  a  salubrious  climate.  In 
this  region  the  meam  temperature  at  Sit- 
ka, the  capitaJ  of  Ala.ska,  is  44.5  degrees 
Fahrenheit  or  about  the  same  as  Wash- 
ington, the  Capital  of  the  Unr.^d  States. 

These  favorable     conditio:  j*     ii,re     not 
alone  confined  to  Sdtka,  «('>ted  on  an 
156 


I 


P      J 


'<«, 


WONDERLAND 


I' 


isliffiCfd  in  more  imm'ediate  contact  with, 
these  atmosphere  moderating  currenits, 
but  Killisnoo  and  Juneau  at  the  gea  side 
base  of  the  coast  range  enjoy  nearly  the 
aame  mild  temixerature  during  che  winter 
months'. 

The  official  data  shows  that  the  temper- 
ature changes  from  month  to  month  m 
Southeastern  Alaska  do  not  exceed  25 
degrees  from  midwinter  to  midsummor. 
The  records  show  that  the  July  average, 
the  hottest  month,  rarely  reaches  55  de- 
grees and  the  maximum  for  a  single  day 
*eldom  resiches  75  degrees. 

As  we  go  north  of  the  Aleutian  Islands 
the  winter  coast  climQite  is  more  rigorous, 
but  in  summer  the  difEerence  m  not  bo 
great. 

At  St.  Michlaela,  about  73  miles  above 
the  mouth  of  ^he  Yukon,  the  me(an  suim- 
mer  temperati.:*^  is  50  degrees,  but  4 
degrees  cooler  than  at  Sitka,  about  480 
miles  further  south. 

At  Point  Barrow,  the  most  northerlly 
point  in  the  United  State®,  the  mean  in 
STiimmer  is  36.8  degrees,  about  the  temper- 
ature of  the  air  flowing  across'  the  sumr 
mit  of  Pikes  Peak,  (Colorado. 

The  difference  between  the  genial  tem- 
peratiiresi  along  tlie  cons't  iiml  on  tlic  ele- 
vated plateaus  of  the  interior  are  about 
aft  mai'ked  figunatively  as  the  volcanic  firoe 
of  the  Aleutiaim  chain  and  the  Malaspina 
isea  of  ice. 

The  United  States  Ck>ast  and  Geodeiie 
Siirvey.  Mke  the  United  SHates  Weather 
Bureau,  which  may  always  be  relied  upon 
for  perfection  of  instruments  and  accur- 
acy of  reading,  gives  the  following  ob- 
servations for  «ix  months.  October,  1.S80- 
April.  180r  taken  on  the  Yukon,  near 
the  site  of  tlie  gold  discoveries  land  rush 
of  1897,  in»an  temperatnre.  October, 
pirns  33:  November,  plus  8:  December, 
minus  It;  .January,  minus  17;  February, 
minus  15;  March,  plus  6;  April,  plus  20 
degrees. 

The  daily  mean  temperature  fell  and 
remained  below  the  freezing  point,  plus 
82,  ;'!om  November  4th,  1889,  to  April 
21st,  1890. 


f  .!1 


;i 


1 1 


157 


w 


! 

IT  I  1 

N 


*'  •  I 


'r 


The  fallowing  shows  the  severest  cold 
regi»t«>red  during  the  same  period,  all  be- 
low zero:  November,  32  degrees;  Decem- 
ber, 47;  January,  59;  Febnmi*y>  55; 
March,  45;  April,  26.  During  Febniary 
the  cold  remaiTied  minus  47  five  consecu- 
tive days.  A  severer  degree  of  cold  has 
been  experienced,  in  "the  States"  but  not 
for  any  length  of  time. 

In  the  Alaskaai  interior  snow  storms  set 
in  in  September  «.nd  may  occur  until  May 
in  the  mountains  and  passes  and  woe  to 
the  wayfarer  caught  in  their  fierce  em- 
brace. 

The  mean  summer  temperature  ranges 
between  60  and  70  degrees  according  to 
elevation,  the  highest  in  the  middle  and 
lower  Yukon. 

These  possibly  djry  but  supremely  im- 
portant details,  in  a  complete  general 
knowledge  of  our  Alaskan  Wonderland 
may  be  varied  by  a  few  authoritative 
points  concerning  the  rains  of  Alaska. 

ITie  rains  and  clouds  of  our  Northern 
possesscions,  like  many  other  objects  in  na- 
ture, "beat  the  record"  ait  large. 

Tho  average  number  of  clear  days  is 
66.  A  view  of  this  Wonderland  on  one  of 
those  aixty-si.-r  suniihiny  days,  as  viewed 
through  "official"  eyftsr,  wiil  reveal  "the 
atiniosiphere  remarkably  clear,  the  scenic 
effects  magnificent,  ntid  all  nature  seeming 
to  be  in  holiday  attire." 

The  scene,  however,  may  change  ?n  "the 
twinkling  of  an  eye."  "The  sky  becomes 
overcast,  tht  winds  increase  in  force;  rain 
Ix'gin.s  to  fall:  the  evergi-eens  sigh  omin- 
ously, and  utter  desolation  and  loneliness 
prevail." 

The  durations  of  daylight  and  dark- 
ness, varying  with  the  mimmer  and  the 
winter  solstice,  again  present  the  wonder- 
ing contrasts  which  we  find  in  our  Alas- 
kan Wr-nderland  on  the  land,  on  the  sea, 
under  the  sea  and  in  the  atmosphere. 

In  May  the  orb  of  day  shows  its  .nmiling 
disc  onl  the  lofty  mountain  tops  at  3 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  embosoms 
itself  behind  the  blue  waves  of  the  Pa- 
cific at  9  o'clock  in  the  night.  In  .Tune  it 
greets  thie  everlasting  snows  of  the  moun- 
tains at  half  past  one  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
158 


WONDERLAND 


est  cold 
all  be- 
Decem- 

ary.  55; 

'ebrnary 

consecu- 
oid  has 
but  not 

orms  set 
atil  May- 
woe  to 
?rce  em- 

e  ranges 
)rdiiig  to 
3dle  and 

nely  im- 
goneral 
Tiderlanid 
iorita1:ive 
laaka. 
Northern 
ets  in  na- 

•  days  is 
on  one  of 
18  viewed 
voal  "the 
he  scenic 
e  seeming 

s:e  in  "the 
r  becomes 
orce;  rain 
igh  omiii- 
lonelinesfl 

ind  dark- 
["  and  the 
e  wondor- 
oiir  Alfls- 
n  the  sen, 
lihei'O. 
its  smiling 
tops  at  3 
embosoms 
f  the  Pa- 
fn  Jnne  It 
the  monn- 
the  morn- 


li34?  amd  disappeairs  at  half-past  ten  o'clock 
in  the  evening,  leaving  but  four  hours  of 
resplendent  twilight. 

The  rhapsodies  of  the  poetic  imagination 
over  the  land  of  the  Midnight  Sun  finds 
its  counteiiMirt  within  our  own  domain  by 
simi'ly  shifting  the  scene  from  North 
Gape,  at  the  |)eak  of  the  Scandbiavian 
Peninsulia  s  round  the  cap  of  the  globe  to 
ouir  own  Point  BaaTOw  in  "Wonderland 
Alaska  on  the  same  parallel  of  71  degrees 
22  minutes,  from  25  degrees  longitude  east 
156  degrees  longitude  west  or  almost 
;  ecisely  one-half  of  the  circuit  of  ihe 
globe  within  19  degrees  of  the  northv^/n 
polair  axis  of  the  earth,  and  yon  will  find 
yourself  gazing  ax  that  self-same  Midnight 
Sun,  which  the  illustriouis  traveler,  Bayard 
Taylor,  so  vividly  deacril)ed  from  North 
Cap?  in  Norway,  when  our  Alaskan  Won- 
land  was  unknown  and  Russian  Americ. 
almost  a  myth. 

He  thus  portrays  ai  midnight  scene: 
"The  headlands  of  this  deeply  indented 
coast  lay  airound  us  •  *  *  but  all 
with  foreheads  touched  with  super-natural 
glo(ry.  Far  to  the  northeasit  wais  Nord- 
kye,  the  most  northern  point  of  the  main- 
land of  Europe,  gleaming  rosily  and  faint 
in  the  full  beams  of  the  sun,  and  just  as 
our  watehes  denot<^  midnight  the  north 
appeared  to  be  westward,  a  long  line  of 
purple  bluff  presenting  a  vertical  front  of 
900  feet  in  height  to  the  Polar  Ocean." 

"Midway  between  these  two  magnificent 
headland*  stood  the  Midnight  Sun  shin- 
ing on  uis  with  subduetl  fires  and  with  the 
gorgeous  coloring  of  an  hour  for  which 
we  have  no  name,  since  it  is  neither 
sunrise  nor  sumset,  but  the  blended  love- 
liness of  both,  but  shining  at  the  same 
moment  in  the  heat  and  splendor  at  noon- 
day on  the  Pacific  Isles." 

That  same  noonday  reigned  in  the  soli- 
tudes of  that  same  polar  shore  whiohi  to- 
day has  for  its  topmost  place  of  human 
habiitaition  on  the  American  mainland 
Point  Barrow  in  our  own  Alaskan  Won- 
derland. 

With  these  conditions  reversed  on  the 
upi)er  Yukon  in  the  vicinity  of  our  own 

169 


n 


't^V 


it. 


OVR  ALASKAN 

Alaskan  gold  rcgionfl  and  Klionidiktt 
aeighbcnr,  the  mid-winter  sun  rises  at  10 
o'clock  in  thte  morning  and  s«ts  at  2  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon,  leaTinig  but  four  bours 
of  daylig'ht.  The  sun  for  that  brief  dura- 
tion appearing  but  a  few  degrees  above 
the  horizon  and  moet  of  the  time  obsonre''^ 
by  driving?,  frozen  mists,  we  have  all  the 
dreariueas,  solitude  and  death^like  salence 
of  tba  long,  long  Arctic  nighit. 

The  climate  of  Alaska,  compiled  by  A. 
J.  Henry,  Chief  of  Diviaioa  of  llecoa-dH 
and  Meteorological  Data,  in  mon,thdy  and 
annual  mean  tempei-aiture  in  degrees, 
Pahreniheit  is  given  in  the  following  com- 
prehensive table: 


STATIONS. 

•a 

s 

o    / 

56  30 

57  03 

1 

"Si 
a 
o 

a 

1 
t 

V 

Q 

Annual. 

Coast. 
Fort  Wrangell.. 

Sitka* 

Hitkaf       

o    / 
132  28 
136  17 

o 

58.2 
55.4 
54.4 
51.8 
56.6 
54.7 
50.6 
49.6 

6:16 
38.1 

o 

32.8 
33.3 
36.0 
30.0 
29.3 
30.5 

mi 

32.8 

4.8 

-15.4 

-2.1 
-19  9 

o 

43.0 
43.3 
44.6 

KlUlsnoo 

.TiitiesLii -. 

*57  22  134  29 
58  19  134  28 

39.8 
40.9 

Kadlak 

57  48 
53  53 
53  54 

63  28 
71  22 

62  87 

65  10 

66  an 

65  W 

64  10 

152  19 
l(i6  82 
166  24 
161  48 
156  16 

160  08 
152  45 
145  18 
142  38 
139  25 

40.6 

Unalaska* 

Unalastiat 

Bt.  Mlchaei!> 

Point  P«rrow.. 

INTKBIOR. 

Anvlk 

38.7 

39.3 

26.1 

77 

Nukiubayet 

Krtrt.  Vnkon 

Tchatowklln.. 
Fort  Reliance  .. 
Camp  Waviflpon 

"60.3 

—15.0 
—21.4 
—15.6 
—17.4 

"22!9 

•..'t1 

'0. 


*RuBHlan  series. 
tU.  S.  signal  service. 


*i 


The  following  gives  the  extremes  of 
temperature  at  the  Interior  stations 
named: 

160 


H 


WONDERLAND 


Iioi]idik» 
I  at  10 
o'clock 
r  boura 
yf  dura- 
above 
ibscnire-* 
all  the 
ailejice 


u 

« 

^ 

o 

^ 

a 

o8 
0 

« 

a 

e 

a 

Q 

< 

o 

o 

82.8 

43.0 

as,3 

43.3 

36.0 

44.6 

m.C) 

39.8 

2f).3 

40.9 

3().5 

40.6 

30.1 

38.7 

32.8 

39.3 

4.8 

26.1 

-15.4 

77 

-2.1 

-19  9 

••••■' 

-Ifj.O 

-21  A 

-15.0 

22.0 

-17.4 

Extremes  of  Teniperiiture-Maximnni 

• 

l4 

ja 

ti 

a 

a 
a 

o 

m 

a 

g 

a 

>-> 

p 

AnviK«B'^4««  •••' 

35 

46 

06 

25 

Wubluhayet .... 

;« 

40 

' 

72 

17 

Tcbatowklin   . 

17 

56 

78 

39 

Fort  Reliance.. 

20 

45 

07 

34 

Camp  David  on 

2.5 

38 

87 

66 

17 

Dump  Ccionna 

17 

33 

85 

17 

Extremes  of  Temperature— Minlmnin. 


Anvlk 

Nuklukayet.... 
Toliatowklin   .. 
Fort  Reliance.. 
Camp  Davidson 
Camp  Coionna 

—76 
-75 
-80 
-00 
—49 

—38 
-  50 
-36 
-46 
-48 

"'35' 
36 

12 

8 

18 

14 

-68 
-08 
—09 
-49 
-43 

In  the  missing  extremes  of  tomperature 
l'io  figuros  resj)oetivel.v  in  ilt'gT(  «'.s  are  An- 
vlk, maximum,  May,  67;  August,  it>5:  Nuk- 
lukayet respectively  72  and  79;  Tcliat- 
owklin,  82  and  80;  Fort  Reliance,  June, 
70. 

The  extremes  of  minimum  iu  degrees  as 
far  as  recordi-d,  were  Nuklukayet  May, 
11;  Augusit,  28;  Tcbatowklin  M.ny,  10; 
August,  30;  Fort  Uolianci'  May,  1»;. 

Montjina  is  the  coldest  State  iu  the 
Union.  A  temperature  of  63  d'^rees  be- 
low zero  was  recorded  at  Poplar  River, 
Montana,  in  January,  1885.  This  is  the 
lowest  point  over  reached  in  the  United 
State-s  and  recorded.  Wi;s:o>o*in,  Michi- 
gan and  Minnesota  also  experience  very 
low  temperatures  in  winter. 

At  Sit.  ^ficiiaol'^.  on  N'>rti>n  S<mnt<.  the 
starting  point  for  steam^e^rs  ascending  the 
Yukon,  about  73  milea  aorth  of  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  acc^vriling  to  otficial  repoi-ts  of 
the  Un"teu  Sta»e>s  Signal  Office,  the  buya 
are  frozen  over  duiing  the"*last  week  in 
Octobea*  and  i-emain  ck«n'd  imtil  the  laTter 
part  ot  June,  although  it  is  possible  to 
enter  the  Sound  by  the  middle  of  Jane. 
161 


;  It' 


n 


r 


I 


^(T 


i  I 


Mi 


OUR  ALASKAN 

The  winter  mootihia  will  average  Beven, 
October  to  Mav,  and  the  smnmer  moutbia 
the  remaining?  five. 

Friom  observationa  taken  on  board  the 
TJ.  S.  S,  Pinta  at  Sitka  and  other  places 
in  Southeaetem  Alaska  July  1, 1890,  April 
30,  1891,  the  following  average  tempera- 
ture of  tid'ail  water  is  recorded:  1890, 
July,  60.5  degrees;  September,  54;  De- 
cember, 42.8;  March,  41.09.  The  larg«3t 
number  of  fair  days  was  seventeen  in 
August  and  seventeen  in  February,  and 
the  least  number  two'  in  February.  Of 
cloudy  dayia  during  the  same  period  there 
were  fifteen  in  July  and  thirteen  in  June. 
Of  day*  of  rain  or  snow,  twenty-three, 
with  thunder  and  lightning  on  the  26th 
and  27th  in  September,  and  24  in  Janu- 
ary. There  was  thunder  and  lightning 
on  December  5th  and  6th.  For  the  en- 
tire twelve  months  of  that  period  there 
were  fair  125,  cloudy  82,  rain  or  sno/w 
158  days.    Total  365  days. 

The  climatic  conditions  of  Norway  reg- 
i»ter  somewihiat  higher  than  the  same  lat- 
itudes in  Alaska  owing  to  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  Atlantic  equatorial  cur- 
rent, the  Gulf  Stream.  Norway  lies  be- 
tween the  ^Mirallels  57  degre<>«,  59  min- 
utes and  71  degrees  and  21  miuntes.  At 
Hammerfest,  70  degrees,  20  minutes,  the 
liighest  town  in  Norway,  the  warm  cur- 
rent follows  that  shore  into  the  Polar 
Sea  around.  It  is  this  same  tempering 
influence  which  even  modifies  the  rigors 
of  Spitzbergen  in  the  latitude  of  80  de- 
grees and  Nova  Zemblia  in  75  degrees, 
five  and  ten  degrees  farther  north  than 
Hamanerfest  and  in  the  same  polar 
segment:  of  the  earth. 

At  Hammerfest,  the  most  northern 
town  in  Europe,  the  winter  mean  is  22.6 
degrees  Fahrenheit,  which  is  three  de- 
grees higher  than  Christiiana  in  tempera- 
ture and  over  ten  degrees  nearer  the 
frozen  pole  in  latitude. 

At  the  American  whaling  station,  Point 
Barrow,  in  the  latitude  of  Hammerfest, 
the  winter  mean  is  about— 15.  It  should 
be  remembered  that  this  point  is  not 
©vein  remotely  affected   by  any  of    the 

162 


I 


t 


wo:ndebland 


1 


•  mjinthis 

oard  the 

r  places 

50,  April 

tempera- 

1:     1890, 

54;  De- 

e  largest 

nteen  in 

ary,  and 

ary.     Of 

iod  there 

in  June. 

ity-three, 

the  26th 

in  Janu- 

lightning 

p  the  en- 

iod  there 

or  snofw 

rway  reg- 
sam>e  lai- 
tnmediate 
>rial  our- 
y  lies  be- 
59  min- 
lutes.  At 
nutes,  the 
mrm  o(ir- 
he  Polar 
tempering 
Jbe  rigora 
of  80  de- 
>  degrees, 
>rth  than 
ne    i>olar 

northern 
m  is  22,6 
three  de- 

tempera- 
uer     the 

on.  Point 
nmerfest, 
It  should 
t  is  not 
r  oif    the 


warm  current*  of  th«  ocean,   which  do 
not  pass  northward  of  the  Aleutian  chain. 

Inland  in  Norway  the  mercury  freeze* 
(40  F.),  fi-nd  the  temperature  does  not  ma- 
terially differ  from  inland  Alaska  in  the 
same  latitudes.  The  rainfaJl  on  the  coast 
is  from  40  to  70  inches,  while  in  the  in- 
terior 12  to  16  inches,  or  not  materiaJly 
different  from  Alaska. 

In  the  midst  of  these  frigid  oonditiona 
Norway  ranks  among  the  kingdoms  of 
the  earthy  beinig  124,445  squaie  miles  in 
artia,  or  lews  than  one-fourth  the  size  of 
Alaska,  and  has  a  population  of  over 
2,000,000  inhabitants. 

The  whole  area  of  Norway  is  about 
three  and  one-third  degrees,  or  230  miles, 
north  of  tL'?  southern  bounouiry  of  Soutihi- 
eastern  A'aska.  The  temperature  of 
Southeastefli  Alaska,  affected  by  the  Pa- 
cific equatorial  current,  is  more  moderate 
than  Norway,  the  winter  mean  at  Sitka, 
Alaska's  capital,  being  over  33  degrees, 
aa  ah'a'nfit  about  19.6  degrees  at  Ghria- 
tiana,  iNorway's  capital. 

As  for  the  Swedish  wintg  of  the  twin 
kingdom  of  the  Scanffliniavian  Peninsula, 
the  difference  between  the  winter  and 
summer  temperatures,  coast  and  inland, 
ranges  49.7  degrees  in  llhe  north,  where 
the  lakes  are  frozen  220  days,  and  30  de- 
grees in  the  south,  where  the  lakes  are 
frozen  90  days  in  the  year. 

And  yet  Sweden,  173,000  square  miles 
in  area,  about  one-'third  the  size  of  Alas- 
ka, has  a  poyuJation  of  4,800,000. 

It  furnisihed  some  of  the  most  brilliant 
military  leaders  of  modern  times  and  has 
been  abreast  of  the  rest  of  continental 
Euroi^e  in  enlightened  government  and 
progress  in  Lhe  arts  of  peace.  Its  capital, 
Stockho''xii,  lies  in  latitude  59.40,  or  about 
two  and  one-half  degrees  farther  north 
than  Sitka,  the  capital  of  Alaska^ 

In  Ruwria,  with  the  United  States  the 
greatest  p<>wer  on  the  face  of  the  globe, 
tl»e  average  temperature  in  January  is 
below  freezing.  The  rivers  from  Decern 
ber  1st  remain  frozen  100  days  in  the 
Bouth ;  150  to  167  days  in  the  north.  Only 
beyond  the  parallel  of  62  does  the  July 
mean  fall  below  62  degree*. 
163 


1* 

i 


)  I 


rf 


r 

! 


1 

I:  I 
t,  I 


41 


J 


! 
1 1  •( 


i 


OUR  ALASKAN  WONDERLAND 

In  Siberia,  reputed  to  be  the  coldest 
country  in  the  world,  melons  grow  on  the 
steppes  of  Minu»ink  and  about  Irkutsk, 
latitude  62  degrees  north,  barl-sy  is  sown 
in  May  and  reaped  in  August.  And  yet 
at  Verkhoyansk  and  Yakutch,  latitude 
621^,  the  cold  pole  of  the  Eastern  Hemi- 
sphere, the  tliermometor^-75  to  85  de- 
grees— is  5  to  10  degrees  colder  than  the 
extreme  at  Fort  Reliance  in  Alaska. 

St  Petersburg,  the  capital  of  powerful 
Russia,  on  the  northern  parallel  of  60 
degrees,  is  three  degrees  north  of  Sitka, 
our  Alaskan  capital,  and  21  degrees,  or 
1,460  statute  miles,  north  of  Washing- 
ton, the  capital  of  the  United  States. 

The  capital  of  Aliajska,  Sitka,  is  18  de- 
grees of  latitude,  or  1,^0  statute  mileB, 
north  of  the  capital  of  the  United  States. 

That  it  is  cold  in  Alaska  no  one  ques- 
tions. That  it  is,  mean,  colder  in  the 
United  States  from  the  Lake  of  the  Woods 
to  the  Rocky  Mountains  along  the  paral- 
M  of  boundary  between  the  United 
States  and  the  present  British  posseasiona 
north  of  the  49th  parallel,  than  many 
parts  of  Alaska,  will  also  be  found  es- 
tablished by  scientific  data. 

The  unexploited  wealth  of  Alaska  as 
exploration,  research,  science  and  indus- 
try brin^  it  into  marketable  value  will 
in  dollars  laa  the  best  portions  of  the 
United  States  and  probably  greater  than 
in  some  sections  under  the  nationlaJ  juris- 
diction. Tlie  adaptability  of  the  Ameri- 
can citizen  to  aJl  conditional  of  climate 
and  soil  has  and  if  it  pays  now  wiU 
speedily  solve  the  problem  which  is  so 
largely  entering  into  the  anticipations 
and  calculations  of  the  officiial  and  un- 
official world  not  only  in  the  United 
States  but  within  the  bordere  of  our 
northern  neighbor. 


1 
i 


164 


D 

s  coldest 
iW  on  tihie 

Irkutsk, 
'  18  sown 

And  yet 

latitude 

m  Hemi- 

0  85   de- 
than  the 

1  ska. 
IXKwerfuJ 

lei  of  60 
of  Sitka, 
iSrees,  or 
Washing- 
tates. 
ia  18  de- 
iite  mileB, 
>d  States. 
one  ques- 
er  in  the 
he  Woods 
the  paral- 
!  United 
ossessions 
lan  many- 
found  es- 

llaska  aa 
md  indus- 
?alue  will 
8  of  the 
;ater  than 
onal  juris- 
he  Ameri- 
)f  climate 
now  will 
ieh  is  90 
ticipations 
1  and  un- 
£>  United 
J    of     oxir 


I 


Wtt 

m>.\ 

.1 


w 


'}  ■ 


i, 


ARCTIC  EDEN 


LETTER  NUMBER  XV. 


Something  About    Cur    Fellow 
Citizens  from  Alaska. 


Walrus,  Salmon  and  Moose  Instead 

of  Apples— Sea  Otter  and  Seal 

Skins    Instead    of    Fig 

Leaves. 


H'ttntl  Shan,  of  China,  Dlsconnts  Blorne, 

of  Scandinavia  Five,  and    Colnm- 

bm.  the  iltallan,  firom  Spain 

Ten  Centuries. 


Itt  the  hiMTy  of  current  and  prospective 
eyeats  witiiiiii  the  aa-ea  of  "Our  Golden 
Wonderland  of  AUtska  and  Ktondike 
neighiboTj"  and  in  view  of  the  vast  acces- 
sions to  lis  popuilaJtion  under  the  alluring 
prospects  of  a  golden  road  to  wealth,  it 
W'll  be  initeresting  and  instructive  to 
taary  for  a  moment  in  our  narrative  to 
tal:e  a  Quick  glance  at  the  native  races 
whi'^  pajssed  under  the  jurisdictiom^  if 
not  into  full  fellow-citizenship,  of  the 
United  States  of  America,  when  the  great 
Secretary  accomplished  the  cession  of  the 
vast  regions  which  they  inhabited. 

In  the  progressive  development  of 
Alaska  these  native  occupants  of  the  soil 
aire  not  likely  to  figure  very  extensively  in 
the  immediate  future  at  least  in  either  the 
arts  of  peace  or  war,  being  few  in  nnm- 
bers,  peaoefal  and  inoffeinflive  in  spirit, 
167 


n 


I  il 

4 


)< 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


!.0 


I.I 


1^128 


2.5 


2.2 


I:  iifi     M 


1.8 


1.25 

1.4      1.6 

^ 6"     

► 

PhotDgraphic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


^4 


^ 


^ 


"<h 


I 


OOR  ALABKAN 


rl 


i) 


and  not  advanced  mu'ch  beyond  the  radi- 
mentaay  stages  of  primitive  maoi. 

Tliey  seem  to  be  logically  arranged  by 
lianguage,  diiaracterLstlcs  fund  local  consid- 
eratioiui  in  four  generic  a<reas,  if  not 
generic  races. 

The  most  numerous  and  widely  spread 
are  the  Eskimos  or  IninuitB.  (Eskimo  genr 
eraJliy  used  means  ""raw  fish  eatens.'^ 

This  race  of  poJ^x  people  which  niimbe:«"- 
ed  12,784  under  the  eleventh  census,  Ik- 
hlajbit  the  Alaskan  coast  line  of  the  Arc- 
tic Ocean  ond  Bering  Sea  and  are  not 
unlike  in  languagOj  hauits,  customs, 
p<b|ysical  characteristict  and  occupations 
their  kinsmen  of  Greenland  ami  even 
Lapland.  They  ore  rugged,  hardy  and 
patient  under  the  advei"se  and  inbospi  fable 
conditions  of  t±ie  Arctic  zone.  Their 
mtiia  and  only  occupation  is  a  constant; 
warfare  with  nature,  and  the  eking  out 
of  a  scanii  subsistance  in  the  perilous  pur- 
suit of  the  walrus  and  whale  and  smaller 
finny  deniztns  of  the  deep  and  the 
streams,  besides  hunting  the  caribou, 
moose  end  other  game  of  the  land. 

The  racial  division  next  in  numbers  is 
the  TUing-ket,  by  the  cemsus  oi  1890,  the 
la/test  ofiicial  figures  accessible,  4,739.  To 
these  people  occupying  the  uiainlaiul  and 
off  coast  islands  of  Southeastern  Alaska, 
must  be  added  the  Tsimpseans,  951,  and 
Haidas,  391,  making  a  total  of  6,08t 

These  three  somewhat  similar  people, 
alike  in  character,  customs  and  habits, 
but  differing  in  language,  represent  the 
best  types  of  the  native  races  of  Alaska. 
Their  contact  with  the  wlhite  Americana 
and  thoir  employment  by  them  in  various 
occupations  on  sea  and  land,  has  been  suf- 
ficient inducement  to  adopt  tlie  Amerieaiii 
language,  to  learn  to  read  and  write,  and 
as  far  as  p'-octical  to  apply  their  mode 
of  living.  They  are  of  greater  stature 
than  the  stunted  Eskimos  farther  north, 
and  display  extraordinary  powers  of  en- 
durance. The  heriditary  tendency  to  pul- 
monary, rheumatic  and  other  ailments 
which  follow  in  the  train  of  aquatic  pur- 
suits and  hardships  on  land,  causes  great 
hlavoc  among  them. 

Another  branch  of  the  Alaskan  native 
168 


f    '   J 


WONDERLAND 


inhabitants  is  the  Athabasoan  or  Tlnneh 
race,  which  numbered  3,441  in  the  laat 
census.  Tliese  people  are  allied  to  the 
once  widely  spread  copper-colored  North 
American  Indian,  the  sarnie  with  whom 
our  foret'aithers  hod  such  a  thrilling 
experience  during  the  Colonial.  Conti- 
nental and  Constitutional  eras  of  our  na- 
tional history. 

These  people  are  classed  as  homogeneous 
Ln  racial  chlarfacteristicB  with  the  wild  sav- 
ages  whichi  roam  over  the  unoccupied  re- 
ffions  from  the  Arctic  Basin  of  the 
Mackenzie  alone:  the  eastern  sIoiksj  of 
the  Rockies  as  far  south  as  the  sub- 
tropical valley  of  the  Rio  friande.  Within 
ouir  own  boixlers  the  I'epresentaiives  of 
this  aboriginal  race  have  been  predatory, 
fierce  and  warlike.  They  extend  over 
the  line  of  intei'njational  boundary  toward 
Bering  Sea,  but  not  to  the  coast,  which 
is  occupied  by  the  Eskimos,  and  thence 
into  the  Va'iley  of  the  Porcupine.across  the 
Yukon  and  the  Tanana  into  the  Valley  of 
the  Suehiitnla  and  down  to  Cook  Inle*  ot 
the  Alaskan  Gulf. 

In  this  expanse  of  territory  are  includ- 
ed the  gold  region  of  Forty-Mile  Creek, 
Klondike  and  other  regioois  showing 
"color." 

These  Athabascans  genemJly  occupy 
the  streams  w^hiere  fish  and  game  are 
abumidanit.  They  had  long  come  in  cour 
tact  with  the  HudsoHi  Bay  Comimny  at 
Fort  Selkirk.  Fort  Yukon  and  other 
posts  in  that  wild  region  in  the  barter  of 
valuable  pelitrics  for  the  simple  require- 
ments of  their  metho<ls  of  living  and  all 
important  fire-airms  and  ammnnition. 

In  later  years,  since  the  American  pos- 
session, they  have  come  in  intercourse  with 
the  mining  canons  cm  the  Upper  Yukon, 
bjM'terimg  skins  and  game  for  rum  and 
tobacco  and  have  acquired  other  ad- 
vances in  the  ways  of  civilization. 

The  least  numerous  of  the  native  races 
are  the  Aleuts  or  Oomngan,  who  in- 
habit the  Alaskan  Peninsula  and  the 
vast  stretch  of  islands  embraced  in  the 
Aleutian  chain  and  tiliio  Shumagin  group. 
Thcisc  people  number  J.'68,  and  are  rapidly 
diiniuisbinj?  in  numbers.  From  long  inter- 
169 


i 


I  J  < 

Hi  I 


(> 


course  with  tlie  former  Riuwian  possos- 
jors  of  the  country  they  liave  become 
Itaswiaii  in  laiwrimffe,  rehcion,  modes  of 
«fe  a«<l  t'veii   ohysieal  clmracteristit'M. 

They  are  n  pdiuvful  race  au<l  make  a 
uvuip  hunting  the  sea  oIUt  for  its  valu- 
able p(>h;  and  fishinp. 

The  total  enumeration  of  the  AUi^kau 
races  ir  1890  wan  23.274. 

Theii  rumber  w.i.s  approximateil  at  a 
much  hijjiier  tiffiire  in  18('»8,  the  year  after 
the  ce.«*sion.  In  a  military  reiKirt  in  tlHiit 
year  they  were  piven  at  82,40(),  and  to 
that  the  »;ime  year  in  a  rejwrt  to  the 
Commissioner  of  Iiidinn  Affaii-s  11.<KX> 
ThlinpketB  were  added,  which  would 
make  an  aggregate  of  93,400.  An  exag- 
geration. 

The  tenth  oen: uh  (1880)  fixed  their 
miml)eis  at  33.42(».  which  showwl  a  di*- 
cide«l  differonee.  The  reix)Tfa  are  not  re- 
garded as  wholly  ix»liable. 

The  eleventh  ceu«im  (1890.),  which  waa 
the  first  as  far  a.*»  it  went,  giving  the 
enumeration  of  the  occui>ants  of  the 
counti-y  in  detail,  stited  the  native  raec« 
23,532,  or  males  12.100.   females  11,42(5. 

A  consensus  of  oflieuil  conclusioiifl  in- 
dicates a  slow  deerea«v  in  the  native 
ra«^.  The>'  now  seem  to  tend  to  the 
common  fa;(  of  the  wild  i)eoi>k>s  of  the 
CVmtin^'rt  aft«T  a  brief  contact  with  the 
white  imiyulation.  Th<Te  is  little  doubt, 
howev<«r,  that  this  diminution,  if  it  nvilly 
exists,  is  largely  due  to  the  hardship  and 
exposure  attending  the  nsitive  mmles  of 
life,  birt  there  are  also  difficulties  in  tl'o 
way  of  accurate  enumoration,  pnrtieul'arly 
on  account  of  the  wamlering  lives  of  the 
natives  during  the  summer,  whiclj  might 
more  than  mnke  up  for  discr(^>anc•ies. 

The  same  environments  of  nature  and 
difficulty  in  obtaining  a  subsistence  will 
explain  the  low  mental  and  moi«J  condi- 
tion of  these  races.  It  will  also  explain 
the  lingual  diversity  which  exists.  Where 
two  races  come  in  c^mtact  there  is  a  mix- 
ing of  dialects  which  in  the  course  of  time 
ifl  liable  to  supercede  Iniith  of  the  originals. 
If  these  native  ix><>ple  survive  the  imi)act 
of  a  period  of  aggressive  exploitation  of 
Alaskan  resoiirces.  which  8c«ie<)  to  be 
ITO 


rel 


7 


' 


WONDERLAND 

the  promise  of  the  future,  the  American 
tongue  and  Araerienix  modes  of  life  mil 
Buperccde.  Tlie  native  races  of  late  yewrs 
have  manif^wtcd  an  incliiwUiun  U>  aban- 
don their  pnicarious  and  isolated  ways  of 
miaintainJnte  their  faniilios  and  are  gath- 
ering alMHit  tlie  8<''ttlt'nu'nt»^  where  tlje 
men  can  find  oceapotions  or  tliieir  fam- 
ilies may  be  protoetetl  w-hile  fhey  ore  ab- 
sent on  foniys  foi*  game  or  employment  in 
the  many  enterpriBL>»  which  are  springing 
up  thponghout  the  Torritorj'. 

TIhe  ajjparenl;  apathy  which  reigned  in 
the  mational  executive  and  legislative 
branches  o^f  the  Covemmenit  in  every- 
thing i)ertaining  to  Ahuska  for  seventeen 
yeans  at  least  after  tlie  acquisition  of  the 
Territotry,  was  brought  to  an  end  through 
the  recommendations  of  the  United  States 
Army,  Navy,  IlevciuK*  Marine  anil  Sci«'n- 
tific  Surveys  in  Alaska  on  official  duty. 

The  Uucssiian  (ireek  Gliurch  intere8te(^ 
itself  in  the  work  of  bettering  the  condi- 
tion of  the  natives  with  some  results  dur- 
ing the  BmiKTor's  jurisdictioiu 

Since  the  iiuiu*riiration  of  the  United 
States  dominion  over  the  iHJuntjy  many 
of  the  letading  religious  denouunations 
have  come  on  the  ground  and  liave  done 
noWy  in  the  amelioration  of  the  nativi's 
in  the  enlargement  of  tlieir  spliero  of  dt>- 
mestic  comfort  and  intelligence  and  in 
their  «daptatiou  to  the  rcquirtMnents  of 
civil  and  religious  life. 

In  the  organic  act  of  1884  the  Secretary 
of  the  Interior  is  directcil  to  m«.kc  iieeilful 
and  proi)er  provision  for  the  education  of 
the  child n>n  of  school  age  in  the  Territory 
of  Alaska  without  reference  to  race,  unitil 
such  time  as  pennnnent  pmvi«ion  shall  be 
made  for  the  same." 

The  Bureau  of  Education  at  Washing- 
ton cit.v,  thrmigh  its  representative,  ift. 
Sheldon  .Tackson,  and  others,  has  done 
mimt  effective  work.  This  arahle  field  of 
ollicinl  civilizing  hibor,  as  I  have  said, 
had  l>een  alloiwerl  to  remain  in  its  primi- 
tive stage  for  seventeen  yeairs  before  the 
neeeasjiry  legislation  could  be  obtained. 
Tlie  work  since  has  been  sagacioaisly  man- 
aged. The  rising  generation  will  sperJt, 
read  and  write  the  American  remacuJar. 
171 


T 


I 


■  I 


K' 


i>' 


OUR  ALASKAN 

The  primary  schools  wMch  answered  the 
elemeutaa'y  stages  of  the  work  are  now 
being  suppleniiontod  by  those  of  a  higher 
grtade. 

The  explodtation  of  physical  resources; 
the  expansion  of  industry;  the  enlarge- 
ment o.'  odiMM.tional  and  pellgious  instruc- 
tion; the  extension  of  mall  facilities  and 
intercourse,  not  to  apeak  of  the  marvel- 
ous output  and  prospects  of  gold,  spring 
over  our  Alaskan  Wonderland  an  arc  of 
promise  which  may  be  a  fitting  introduc- 
tion to  the  dawn  of  a  new  century  of 
home  and  nAitional  progress. 

The  Government,  after  many  years  of 
apathy,  has  beeom<!  seriously  aroitwd  in- 
beiialf  of  these  neglected  i)€ople.  The  visi- 
ble effects  of  the  government  8ch,ool8, 
supplemented  by  the  missionary  denom- 
inational efforts  are  apixarent  on  all  sides 
in  advanced  education,  civilization  a^ 
Christianity. 

The  Bureau  of  Education  at  the  Na- 
tional Capital  has  promo<ted  the  work  to 
an  amazing  degree. 

In  1894  there  were  fourteen  schools  sup- 
ported by  the  national  Government,  whidi 
have  been  increased  from  time  to  time  as 
the  advantage  of  the  native  and  latterly 
the  white  population  have  seemed  to  de- 
mand. These  schools  as  a  rule  are  open 
for  nine  months  in  the  year. 

There  were  in  the  same  year  fifteen  mis- 
sion schools  which  received  government 
aid  and  six  Russian  schools  maintained 
by  the  Greek-Russian  Church- 
It  is  an  encouraging  indication  of  the 
future  among  the  Alaskan  natives,  that 
unlike  the  copper-colored  aborigines  of 
the  "States,"  who  have  lived  in  fierce 
combat  with  civilization  since  the  very 
first  landing  of  the  Oauciasian  race,  they 
eo-oi)erate  with  the  civilizing  agencies  bo- 
ing  thrown  jtround  them.  They  resort  to 
the  habitations  of  the  white  race  and 
dwell  under  their  influence.  They  speed- 
ily aljiandon  their  previous  nomadic 
me'thods  of  living  and  seek  occupation  in 
mining,  fishing  and  other  fixed  indus- 
tries. 

Again  unlike  the  copper-colored  race, 
the  wards  of  the  nation,  the  Alaskan  na- 
173 


^ 


rl 


f 


WOIfDERLAUD 

tive  with  a  moiety  of  an  opportunity  will 
vaike  his  own  way  and  ask  notliiag  of  the 
Government  or  his  neighbors.  AU  he 
needs  are  the  samie  advantaj;es  and  op- 
portunities accorded  to  his  white  fellow 
cJtiizen. 

In  1 S92  there  were  eleven  cTiurch  organ- 
izo  tions  represented,  over  a  widely  spread 
arta.  The  Greek-Russian  Church,  the 
original  ecclesiastical  establishment  under 
the  imperiial  sway,  had  eleven  principal 
churches  ^viith  ondainod  priests  and  many 
(jhaiK^ls  with  resident  unordaJned  assist- 
atiits,  with  a  total  membfership  of  12,000. 

ITie  Presbyterian  Church  nobly  leadd 
the  Wily  in  the  American  missionary  en- 
teipriso,  having  eight  sitatimis,  seven  of 
whieh  are  in  Southeastern  Alaska.  The 
Iloonan  OTmirch  has  four  stations.  The 
three  in  the  north  in  the  custody  of  the 
.Tesuits,  a  hald-over  wor^p  instituted  by 
the  early  French  posseasorsof  Canada  and 
oiainitained  by  the  halfbreed  voyagcnrs, 
traders  and  trappers.  The  official  reports 
indicate  that  this  churdh  establishment 
has  no  native  membership,  but  confines 
its  operations  more  to  the  infant  and 
growing  centers  of  the  w'hite  population. 

The  Protestant  Episcopal  Ghivreh.  haA 
three  flourishing  stations.  The  Mora- 
vians, who  liave  done  such  unpretentious 
but  effective  labor  among  the  North 
American  Indianis  since  alxviit  1745,  have 
four  staitions.  The  Swedish  Evangelical 
two,  the  Methodists  one,  the  Congrega- 
tionaJis/ts  one,  the  Society  of  Friends  one 
and  the  Independent  Church  one. 

The  non-native  population  undier  the 
United  States  cenMis  of  1890,  which  inh 
eluded  traasieats  and  liaborers  in  the  oan- 
neries,  who  mostly  remain  during  the  open 
.'sea.son  wiis  whites,  4,21).'};  nmios,  1}.- 
860;  females,  433;  mixed  (Ruissian  and 
native),  1,819;  moles,  885:  females,  934; 
Mongolians  (Chinese  and  Japanese),  2,- 
287;  end  all  others,  112;  males.  111;  fe- 
males, 1.  Totals,  8,511;  males,  4,856;  fe- 
nwiiews,  3,655.  Th^re  were  at  the  same  time 
of  native  raees,  28,532;  males,  12,106;  fe- 
males, 11,426,  making  a  grand  total  pop- 
ulation officially  reported  in  1890  32,043. 

These  figures  as  regards  the  non-natiye 
173 


OVR  ALABKAV 


i    I 


' 


.\i 


I) 


races  have  undoubtedly  very  ereatly  In- 
creased under  the  iqa^ee  of  the  gold 
exoitemeinit  and  thoyemploymenit  of  a  large 
ninuiber  of  persons  in  trade  transporta- 
tdota  and  othor  necessary  industries. 

The  distribution  and  permaueocy  of  this 
sudden  accession  wiU  be  determined  by 
the  revelations  of  the  future. 

The  trenty  of  oession  provided  that  the 
natives,  except  the  uncdvilized  tribes,  who 
resnained  in  Alaska  oind  did  not  rencuove 
to  Riussia  should  be  "admitted  to  the  en- 
joyment of  alll  the  rigbts,  advnntaiges  and 
immuJidties  of  citizens  of  the  United 
States  and  shall  be  maintained  and  pro- 
tected in  the  full  enjoyment  of  their  lib- 
erty, property  and  reMgion/' 

Unlike  the  American  Indians,  the 
Alaskan  natives,  except  the  Athabascans, 
Hved  in  fixed  abodes  and  in  no  way  as 
the  copper-colored,  savage  Aborigine  of  t!he 
United  States.  The  Government  owns 
the  soil  as  original  purdiaeer.  There 
have  been  no  treaties  with  the  natives 
and  none  are  necessary. 

The  courts  have  also  decided  that  Alas- 
ka is  not  an  Indian  country. 

Under  the  organic  act  of  1884,  native 
offenders  have  been  tried  by  United 
States  courts  without  reference  to  their 
tribal  relations  or  customs,  the  same  as 
other  citizens.  The  pro'.Tnged  litigation 
reJatinig  to  the  civil  status  oif  the  In- 
dians of  the  United  States  not  bound  by 
treaty  stipulations  and  not  holding  tribal 
lelation  has  no  application  to  Alaskan 
natives.  They  exercise  no  divided  fealty. 
They  are  citizens  of  the  United  States 
under  the  provisions  of  the  tro'aty  which 
the  United  States  cannot  disregard,  with- 
out a  breach  of  interna.tional  faith  v/ith 
Ruiwda  concerning  her  former  oitiw^ins. 

When  the  time  comes,  wfliich  »eeras  to 
be  hurrying  a'x>ng,  when  the  inhaWtawts 
will  be  called  upon  to  exercise  the  fuU 
privileges  of  citizenship  under  a  terri- 
torial organic  act  the  native  of  Alaska 
■not  in  a  wild  or  uncivilizod'  state  will 
have  cilaim  to  the  inalienaible  privilege  of 
every  American  citizens  the  right  of 
suffrage.  In  transportation  of  goods  over 
the  terrible  passes  they  are  a'jready  large- 
ly occupied. 

174 


; 


V 


WONDERLAND 


y  In- 
gold 
large 
jorta- 


It  is  not  necemary  to  enter  into  an  eru- 
dite ethnological  disquisition  upon  tlie  ori- 
gin and  expajwion  of  the  native  inliablt- 
ants  of  Alaska. 

It  is  not  essential  to  the  miarveloius 
awakening  wiiieh  seemo  to  be  awaiting 
the  immediate  future  to  determtoe  in 
what  degree  the  aborigi>  al  Alaskan  is 
a  primate  through  the  remote  pedigree  of 
an  Hvit'liii-opoidal  ape.  Nai  is  it  our  duty 
»f  (in  ope,  as  sdeutists  are  wont  to  de- 
clare themselTPs  and  their  kLnsmen  and 
civilissed  friooids  and  relations,  to  attempt 
to  bring  ouir  Alaskan  fellow-citizena  witn- 
iii  that  apLsh  categorj'.  Nor  would  it 
increase  our  intelligence  or  quiet  our  pride 
to  attempt  to  determine  whether  they  ap- 
proach *  •»  humai.  species  in  regular 
scientafic  sequence,  from  the  most  remote 
claiimicd  amicestors  of  our  scientific  authori- 
ties the  gibbons,  the  oranira.  the  chim- 
panzees and  the  gorillas.  With  the  last 
of  these  anthroijoidal  gentlomen  one 
might  infer  from  their  earnestness  that 
they  almost  claim  ties  of  consanguinity. 

AU  we  iniorentially  know  is  that  these 
native  races  of  Ataska,  as  many  also  be- 
lieve of  our  American  Indians,  are  of 
Mongolian  origin. 

Some  say  the  American  Indians  are 
descendants  or  the  real  and  only  lost 
tribes  of  Israel.  Tlie  latest  by  way  of  Chi- 
cago authority  i»  that  Adam  was  a  China- 
man. That  probably  might  account  for 
Oain  seeking  refuge  in  the  land  of  Nod 
after  the  Edenic  fratricide. 

I  can  say  from  personal  observation  in 
Mongolia  that  the  Tartar  peoples  m-A 
with  in  that  isolated  region  have 
many  ohnracteristics,  habits  and  cus- 
toms »trikingly  in  common  witli  our 
own  aboriginal  Indian.  William  Penn  re- 
fers to  this  strange  coincidence  in  his  de- 
scription of  his  Province.  Others  have 
noted  it.  The  writer  having  been  among 
the  Mongolians  of  Mongolia  amd  the 
American  Indians  of  the  American  plaims, 
can  t(>3tify  to  the  coincidence  if  not  to 
the  absolute  fact  of  some  remote  contact 
between  these  two  *'.erce  nomadic  andi 
wiarlike  races. 

When  we  contemplate  the  inquisitive 
175 


I 


OUR  ALASKAN 

pair  on  the  banks  of  the  Euphrates  en- 
joying tlio  loviMiJpoueing  temperatnres  of 
Eden  and  hiding  their  fort)idden  knowl- 
edge behind  such  primitive  garments  an 
fig  leavoft  we  have  but  to  turn  onr  gaze 
north  westerly  to  the  other  side  of  the 
same  world  and  contempliate  an  Arctic 
Eden  in  the  remote  paat  inhabttlE^d  by 
fierce  warriors  dad  in  the  skins  of  beoats 
amd  nurturing  their  hardy  bodies  upon 
the  flesh  of  animals  a»  wIKl  ami  savage 
9J»  themselves. 

In  opening  interconrse  withi  the  inbablt- 
ants  of  the  earth  swbjeet  to  the  NoaJiic 
racial  distribution  after  so  many  cenc 
turies  of  time  the  hardy  "Vikings  of  the 
frozen  latitudes  of  Europe  or  the  b'ood- 
thirsty  Spaniards  of  Andalusia  and  Oas- 
tiie  were  not  the  first  to  make  the  ac- 
quaimtanoe  of  the  peoples  of  the  new 
world. 

We  liave  "celestial"  authority  for  the 
colobrated  coa.stiiiiR  voynRe  of  Ilwui  Sliaii. 
about  458,  from  the  mainland  of  Oliima, 
the  land  of  Nod  in  Edenic  days  on  the 
EJuphrates,  around  the  Peninsu'a  of 
Oorea,  through  the  Straits  of  Hakodate, 
in  the  land  of  "the  hairy  men"  (Japan), 
along  the  Kurile  Archipelago  and  the 
Kamtehaitkan  Peninsula,  striking  out  into 
the  Paicific  for  B(»rini>r  Isle  and  thoiicc 
from  island  to  island  of  our  own  'otng 
Aleutian  chain  -"rvd  down  our  Alaskan 
foa«t  to  th  oomitry  of  "painted 
bodies"  alonfe  .  ar  western  sihiores  of 
Washington,  Oregon  and  California,  to 
the  country  of  silTcr.  which  we  call 
Mexico,  and  into  the  "country  of  women" 
whieh  stronmfly  suggests  that  Amazonian 
race  of  femininity  of  which  we  read  nar- 
rations. 

The  feasibility  of  such  a  nautical  ven- 
ture can  be  traced  on  our  ordinary  school 
atlasses.  Of  the  sea-going  qualities  of  the 
craft  of  that  day  we  know  nothing,  but 
my  own  experience  has  seen  demonstrated 
the  seaworthiness  of  the  junks  of  the 
modern  Ohineee  in  the  enormous  river 
coast  and  ocean  trade  of  that  ancient 
empire. 

It  is  aJso  reported  that  the  "celestial" 
navigators  left  the  mainland  of  Asia  at 
176 


i 


j 


WONDERLAND 


^^ 


1 


Avatche,  the  aamie  harbor  from  which 
Vitus  Bering  saiJcd  about  twelve  cen- 
turies later  on  his  voyage  of  discovery. 

There  is  also  a  degree  of  oircumatan- 
tdality  about  the  narrative  In  fb'j  Chinese 
text  quoted  by  Vining  in  his  "Inglorioua 
Oolumbuls."  "In  the  first  year  of  the 
reign  of  the  Ts'i  Dynasty  •  ♦  •  499, 
a  Shnuwii  Ituddhist  priwt,  Hwui  Sliaii. 
came  to  Kiiigehoni  from  tlmf  country  imuI 
told  the  following  story  regarding  tlie 
country  of  Fu  Sang  Kwoh."     •       •      » 

The  voyage  of  the  daring  Buddhist, 
Hwui  SIkui  niul  hi.s  iMirty  (y(  nuMHJiciiiit 
Buddhist  monks  originally  from  Afghan- 
istan "far  in  the  heart  of  Asia"  in  tlie 
fiffh  centuiy  was  quite  as  possible  on 
the  other  side  of  our  continent  as  the 
now  accepted  ventures  of  the  daring 
Norsemen  of  Scandinavia  five  and  six 
centiirii-s  later  were  on  this. 

Of  the  diaring  voyage  of  Columbus,  1,- 
000  years  after  Hwui  Shan  and  about  500 
y^ars  after  the  Vikings,  we  know"  by  past 
history  and  current  resujts. 


177 


i 


ESKIMO-JIMEBICIilS, 


i 


1 


1 


s. 


LETTER  NUMBER  XVI. 


How  Oar  Native  Alaskan  Fellow 
Citizens  Live. 


Their  Iglns  and  Families ;  Domestic 
Economy  and  Customs ;  Indus- 
tries and  Diversions. 


A  Life  of  Souc  In  m  tAtltade  of  Silence. 


It  is  not  necessary  to  struggle  up  to 
"Greenland's  Icy  Mountajno,"  neither  to 
winwler  oCf  "To  India's  Ooirol  Strand,"  nor 
"\VlK«re  Afric's  sunny  fountains — I'oU 
down  tlieir  golden  sands,"  in  order  to  find 
subjects  for  the  ethnological  collectioiu 
compoeitely  Icnowu  as  thio  American  peo- 
ple. 

We  have  them  all  gathered  within  the 
expansive  fold  of  the  Republic  in  one  hap- 
py family  of  races  and  n^ionaliticsi.  The 
Anglo-Saxon,  Latin,  Germftulc,  Dutch, 
ScandimaTiiaii,  Slavic,  Aryan,  Isttaelitiah, 
Ishimaelltiish  and  other  brandhos  of  the 
Gauidasian  group;  the  Mongoliota  repre- 
sented by  the  Japanese  and  Chinese,  the 
Polynesian  in  the  Hawaiions  and  Waifs 
of  the  South  Sea  Isiles;  the  African,  who 
traces  his  lines  of  ascent  to  the  duslfv  oc- 
cupants of  the  valleys  of  the  Niger  and 
the  Congo,  and  the  aboriglinal  Indian,  all 
together  making  an  "American  cooicert" 
of  peoples  vieinig  with  each  other  in  the 
arbs  of  peace  and  war  if  need  be  in  de- 
fense of  free  institutions  and  all  the 
Americas  for  Americans. 
179 


♦ 


I 


OUR  ALASKAN 

We  who  enjoy  the  conveniences  of  cdy- 
ilization  in  its  hdgheist  forms  mnist  not 
imagine  thart  we  know  it  all.  If  we  were 
c'ast  iipon  the  shores  of  our  Bering  or 
Arctic  Sea  possessions,  we  would  doubt- 
less die  in  the  attempt  to  live.  The  club- 
num,  too,  of  Nuwuk  and  Utkiavwin 
would  doubtless  succumb  undesr  the  fierce 
"rafkets"  of  the  clubman  nearer  hom& 
The  Komeoe  and  Juliets  under  tlie  sunny 
skies  of  Italy  find  the'r  counterparts  in 
the  wierd  twilight  of  the  arctie  night  of 
North^^rn  Alaska, 

Amid  such  antitheses  of  surroundings 
it  will  be  interesting  to  take  a  hasty  view 
of  the  racial  traits  and  modes  of  living 
of  our  indigenous  fellow  citizens  of 
Alaska,  about  whom  so  little  is  yet  popu- 
larly known. 

There  seems  to  be  little  room  to  doubt 
the  generalt  conclusion  that  they  are  of  the 
Mongolian  atock  which  found  its*  way  to 
our  shores  from  the  mainland  of  the 
mother  continent,  Asia,  in  the  mythical 
ages,  of  which  we  have,  as  to  primitive 
man,  but  the  silent  and  unsatisfactory 
testimony  of  the  different  stages  of  de- 
velopment of  the  earth's  crtiist. 

The  most  numerous  of  onr  Alaskan 
races  are  thie  Polar  people,  who  live  with- 
in the  Arctic  Circle  from  the  tributary 
wiaters  of  Kotzebu©  Sound  to  the  frigid 
shores  of  the  Arctic  Ocean  and  have  their 
chief  resorts  for  trade  at  their  villages 
of  Nuwuk  and  Utkiavwin,  ov  Point  BBar- 
pow,  at  Beecher*s  Point  and  at  Wain- 
right  Inlet,  75  miles  to  the  southwest  and 
Demaroation  Point,  the  polar  land  ei;d 
of  the  international  meridian,  350  mUes  to 
the  east. 

The  Eskimo- Americans  are  of  medium 
height,  robnst  and  muscular,  rarely  ex- 
ceeding 5  feet  8  inches.  They  seldom  be- 
come corpulent,  ranging  in  weight  from 
126  to  204  pounds  among  the  men,  and 
100  to  192  pounds  among  the  women. 
Their  hands  and  feet,  particularly  of  the 
women,  are  small  and  delicate,  the  same 
OS  represented  of  the  Greenland  proto- 
types by  the  ear'liest  explorers.  They 
htELve  a  broad,  flat  face,  high  cheek  bones, 

180 


} 


WONDERLAND 


1 


a  short  nose,  narrow  forehead,  ho-rizcxntal 
eyes  of  shades  of  brown,  and  a  light  yel- 
low i^  brown  complexion,  soimetimes  Ir 
the  women  being  almost  fair. 

The  Hebrew  cast  of  counitenanoe  is  not 
unusual.  The  hair  is  black,  straight  and 
tliiok,  that  of  the  men  rather  ooai«e,  and 
of  the  women  long  and  gUky,  Thie  beard 
in  the  uion  is  scant. 

The  men  are  generally  graceful  and 
erect  in  their  carriage,  walking  with  ex- 
panded dhests  and  lirin  tread,  the  picture 
of  Arctic  dignity.  The  women  step  with 
a  sftiiuffling,  half  trot,  toes  in  and  body 
forward  and  ai'ms  dangling.  Both  sexes 
possess  great  endurance.  They  have 
been  known  to  make  unbroken  journeys 
of  twenty-four  hours  over  the  rough  ice, 
and  50  to  75  miles  a  day  wltliouit  haJting 
to  sleep. 

The  women  bear  no  dhildren  before  20 
years  of  age,  and  are  not  as  prolific  aa 
the  daughters  of  the  races  of  the  more 
salubrious  and  tropioa.1  climes. 

The  American-Eskimos,  like  their  Yan- 
kee fellow  countrymen,  are  quick  witted. 
They  not  only  have  capacity  to  learn  the 
art»,  but  are  particularly  adept  in  me- 
chanical appliances.  They  are  chieerfui 
in  disposition  and  have  the  American 
faculty  of  humor  and.  jokes  even  practical. 
Tliey  are  also  honest,  especially  when 
Helf  interest  is  at  stake,  and  truthful. 

They  show  great  affection  among 
themselves  and  for  their  children,  though 
they  are  stolid  in  sorrow  for  the  dead, 
'ilieir  hospitality  is  universal.  They  als«. 
siiow  great  curiosity.  They  were  some- 
times in  the  beginning  inclined  to  be  Ln- 
iSflent,  but  their  natural  inclinations  and 
ji^ood  sense  turned  them  to  friendliness. 

Th"y  are  not  warlike,  but  for  heroism 
on  tue  sea,  in  pursuit  of  the  monsters  of 
the  deep  which  find  those  frigid  watona 
congenial  to  their  hiabita,  they  cannot  be 
surpassed. 

Thiey  have  no  tribal  organization.  They 
call  themselves  Inuin  or  Inuits  "People," 
which  term  they  apply  to  the  white  man 
as  well  as  to  the  Indianis. 

The  term  Eskimo,  as  I  have  said,  means 

181 


I 


*  I 

^1! 


OUR  ALASKAN 


"raw  fiish  eaters."  It  wiae  at  fitat  used  in 
deriaion,  as  "Tankee"  toward  the  patriots 
of  Oontineiital  diaye,  iiow  thie  syaooym  of 
tiJie  grandest  maniiood  of  the  worid. 

They  fa'ave  terms  indicating  people  of 
certain  loeaJities.  Their  viltagee  seldom 
mimber  over  150  souls,  and  deaitilm  often 
largely  exceed  the  births. 

Point  Bairrow  is  to  the  Eskimo-Ameri- 
can whiat  New  York,  Philadelphia  or  any 
of  the  numerous  cities,  ^reat  and  small 
are  locally  to  the  inhabiituinits  of  the  mir- 
rounding  regions.  There  they  coingreg'ate 
in  winter  for  barter  wiith  the  traders  and 
>\'*h'alers,  and  enjoy  "the  social  season" 
with  their  amuaemeuts. 

In  summer  they  also  do  as  their  more 
luxurious  and  opulent  fellow  citizens  in 
"the  States."  They  remove  to  their  sum- 
mer camping  grounds  Where  mountain 
and  river  game  is  abundant,  and  hunt  and 
dance  and  trade  among  tnemselves  and 
with  tlie  ships  anchored  in  the  aiheiltered 
nooks  of  the  coast. 

They  barter  furs  of  animials,  large  and 
small,  land  and  water,  and  other  naitunal 
products  of  tlie  country,  for  breech-load- 
mg  arms  and  ammunition,  iiiistend  of 
ilintlocks,  formerly  sold  tham  by  the 
British  Hudson  Day  Oompany,  metal 
utensils  and  diver®  articles  used  in  their 
limited  range  of  the  mechanic  arts,  also 
beads,  tobacco  and  not  uufrequently 
rum  if  they  can  get  it.  The  textiles  of 
more  temi>era.le  zones  are  of  little  value, 
though  bright  (jolorod  handkerchiefs  and 
blankets  are  sought  by  the  women. 

It  is  well  e9tal>lished  that  they  prefer  to 
purchase  all  articles  of  American  manu- 
facture. Tlieir  dealings  in  early  times 
with,  the  British  Hudson  Bay  monopoly 
were  doubtless  not  experienc<>s  of  pleasant 
memory. 

Some  idea  of  their  primitive  methods 
of  barter,  as  ancient  as  man,  may  l)e 
foirm3d  of  their  scale  of  values  in  kind. 
A  large  brass  kettle  is  "(j noted"  at  three 
wolverine,  three  black  and  five  red  fox 
skiius. 

An  Eskimo- American  "new  woman" 
carried  on  a  remunerative  trade  by  seeur- 

188 


WONDERLAND 


of 


ing  fram  the  Whale  and  other  sMpe,  even 
rowing  out  in  the  waves  in  her  kaiak  to 
gather  them  in  the  anchorage  of  the  ves- 
sels, all  their  castaway  tin  cans,  Whieh 
slie  eald  to  her  native  customers  at  one 
fox  skin  apiece,  and  then  bartered  them 
to  tlie  trader  at  another  profit. 

The  food  of  these  polar  citizens  is  also 
in  a  transition  stage.  They  formerly  muA 
still  largely  dei>end  upon  the  8e<al,  walrus, 
whale,  deer,  polar  bear,  goat,  goese,  ducks, 
gulls,  and  nearly  all  kinds  of  fialh  aud  eggs 
of  birds.  Of  late  years  tliey  hiave  bar- 
tered for  bread,  flour,  oornmeal,  sugar  and 
mohi.sseis  and  a  few  othior  staples,  their 
oommodities  with,  the  ships  along  the 
coast  or  the  traders. 

The  EBldmo-Ameri<:an  epicure  ie  fas- 
tidiously Frenohy  in  his  tastes.  He  pre- 
fers his  native  fish  aud  blubbeir,  d<.:>ayed, 
and  odl  putrid,  to  Chicago  beef  dreased, 
corned  or  otherwise,  genenilly  the  latter— 
from  the  ships. 

The  entrails  and  contents  of  certain 
anrimals  which  are  considered  delicacies 
have  great  value  iu  their  native  dietary 
arramgemients  as  powerful  anti-scorbutics. 
A  sort  of  native  tripe.  This  Ls  particular- 
ly so  of  the  rabbdt  entrails.  The  necfssity 
of  enormous  quantities  of  fat  in  cold  cli- 
raiates  is  an  exploded  theory. 

As  a  nile  the  Eskimo-Americans  cook 
their  food  chiefly  by  boiling,  but  not  un- 
like many  more  civi'ized  people,  do 
not  object  to  takiuK  it  rare  or  even  raw. 
The  latter  in  the  Po?ar  regions  is  a  mat- 
ter of  convenience  and  often  of  necessity. 
They  eat  when  they  are  hungiy  and  eu- 
>Qj  rfcord-breakiivg  cubical  and  digestive 
capacity.  It  is  reiJorted  that  one  house- 
hold not  very  large  ate  two  reindeer  in 
twenity-four  hours.  It  may  be  added  as  a 
compensating  condition  that  the  same 
hou>iehold  doubtless  survived  imich  longer 
without  eaiting. 

The  women'  prepore  the  food,  but  that 
monster  son  of  Adam  always  tikes  the 
l>esit  cut  and  'eaves  the  rest  and  the  refuse 
for  hip  family. 

Tlie  stirplus  food  is  buried  in  the 
gravel  near  camp  and  dug  up  when  want- 

183 


1 
i 

i 

i 

\ 

fl 

S 


OUR  ALASKAN 


ed  for  winter  u«e,  although  it  tniglit  be 
a  little  "gamey." 

The  blubber  is  always  savea  for  domes- 
tic and  commercial  uses. 

The  chief  drink  of  out  EJskimo  felk>w- 
counftirymen  and  women  is  water  in  enor- 
mous quantities  and  very  cold.  In  win- 
ter a  lump  of  elean  snow  is  ahvays  kejrt 
on  a  rack  near  the  lamp  with  a  tub  bEv 
neath  to  catch  the  meltings,  an  examp!e 
for  their  more  civilized  countrymen. 

Even  when  the  men  are  enjoying  their 
(ipen-air  clubs  in  the  summer  the  V€«€iel 
of  water  with  drinking  bowls  occupies 
the  centre  of  the  circle.  In  traveling  the 
women  often  carry  seal  skin  pouches 
filled  with  snow  next  to  th<»ir  bodies,  the 
warmth  of  which  causes  it  to  melt.  Their 
strong  drink,  when  they  get  it,  comes  ex- 
clusively from  civilized  sources.  Their 
tobacco,  also,  which  they  smoke  in  anthT 
ETwi  stone  pipes  with  wiHow  stems,  they 
carry  in  beautiful'  wolverine,  deerskin 
banded  pouches. 

The  men,  women  and  children  unite  in 
prolonged  domestic  "smokers"  when  they 
can  get  the  weed  from  the  traders  or 
ships. 

The  domicile  of  the  Eskimo-American 
for  winter  use  is  the  iglu.  square  and 
built  of  rudely  fashioned  wood  and  cov- 
ered with  earth  to  exclude  the  tempera- 
tures outside  when  far  below  the  fro7en 
mercury.  From  the  outside  it  resr^^bles 
n  mound  of  e«.rth. 

It  is  entered  by  an  ximderground 
passBige.  25  feet  long.  4  feet  wide,  4*4 
feet  high,  closed  in  winter  or  in  nbaence, 
with  wolves'  hide.  This  passage  oiwms 
into  the  main  room,  which  is  about  14x10 
feet.  The  floor,  wal's  and  roof  are  made 
of  thick  plank,  dressed  and  neatly  fitt<'d 
edge  to  edge,  with  a  sloping  roof.  A  hole 
covered  with  the  membraow  of  strips  of 
the  seal  entrails  sewed  together  and 
stretched  over  a  frame,  is  the  only  aper- 
ture for  light.  Often  the  rafters  are  of 
whale  jaws  and  rilw. 

Across  the  rear  of  the  room  is  a  plat- 
form 30  inches  from  the  ground  and  5 
feet  wide,  which  slopes  toward  the  outer 

184 


it  be 

imes- 

Mow- 
enoT- 
win- 
koi>t 
b  b(v 
mp'.e 

their 
'oseel 
upies 
p  tlie 
iches 
».  the 
rheir 
>s  ex- 
rheir 
intler 
they 
■rskin 

ite  in 

they 

rs  or 

rican 
^  and 
eov- 
ipera- 
ro7«'n 
rsWea 

ronnd 

*nce, 

<>I)0Tli8 

14x10 

mndo 

fitt<>d 

^hole 

>9      of 

ond 

aper- 

ire  of 

plat- 

and  5 

outer 


'. 

/' 


n 

■ 

1  "' 

V 

'ij 

W' 

m 

m 

1 

m> 

W 

•  Mi 

■  lli'i 

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i 

ft 

(i 

U^ 

'1 

c 
'u 


I 


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-  ' 


c 

'u 


■*■.■ 


i 


WONDERLAND 

w&li,  w!hi<!h  is  used     for     sleeping  and 
lounging. 

There  are  on  the  other  sides  racks  for 
drying  clothing,  melting  snow,  and  stoi-  • 
age.  The  deerskin  blankets  are  rolled  up 
and  kept  under  the  sleeping  platform. 
Theae  ai'e  also  many  wooden  tubs  about 
the  roora  used  for  divers  purposes. 

The  iglu  will:  accommodate  two  fami- 
lies. In  thiat  case  each  wife  has  her 
own  end  of  the  room  and  her  own  lamp 
and  corn«r  on  the  floor  to  work. 

Everything  portable  outside  is  kept  on 
scaffolding  out  of  the  reach  of  the  dogs. 

There  is  also  a  storehouse  for  blubber 
and  often  other  out  building?  for  differ- 
out  uses,  particuiariy  the  bath  house. 

The  winter  housee  can  only  be  occupied 
when  the  ground  is  frozen,  as  they  are 
liable  to  be  full  of  water  in  summer  from 
the  thawing   surface. 

In  the  arrangement  of  their  villages 
the  houises  generally  occupy  hillocks  near 
eoich  other  and  all  houses  face  the  south. 
They  also  have  in  the  centre  of  the  vil- 
lage two  large  buildings  In  common,  one 
for  a  club-house,  dancmg,  festivals  amd 
con j  luring  amd  tne  other  for  work-rooms 
for  the  men.  They  are  usually  16x20  feet 
and  7  feet  high. 

The  cloiib-house,  or  ku-dygi,  is  of  such 
importance  that  it  is  even  hastily  erected 
in  their  temporary  camps.  The  men  al- 
ways take  their  turn  in  cooking,  but  their 
wives  furnish  the  food  and  do  the  work. 
The  snow  'houses  (apuya)  used  in  hunt- 
ing or  temporarily,  in  the  villages,  for 
visitors,  are  much  the  same  as  tbe  iglu, 
only  smaller  and  built  of  blocks  of  snow. 
A  beam  holds  the  snow  or  canvas 
roof.  At  the  south  end  is  the  long,  nar- 
row entraivce.  The  fireplace,  of  snow,  is 
2V^  feet  square,  with  a  smoke  hole  in  the 
top  and  a  stick  across  for  the  kettle.  The 
surface  melting  at  first  takes  on  a  coat- 
ing of  ice,  Whidh  afterward  is  but  slightly 
affected.  In  siummer  tlie  people  live  in 
tents,  formerly  of  deer  and  seal  skins,  but 
now  often  of  old  sails  and  canvas  booight 
from  the  ships. 

Their  household    utensils     and    imple- 
ments of  native  make  are  of  seal  skins, 

185 


(I 


i 

i 


OUR  ALASKAN 


wood,  stoiie,  anitlers,  wlkalebone,  hova  and 
ivory. 

Their  stone  hotu>e-Jlami>s  or  oil-bumeirB 
for  heating  and  ligliting  ■  from  6  by  8 
inchefi  to  3  by  2  feet  in  .'  and  shiaJlow. 
The  oil  ia  burned  tbrou  .  wieka  of  mose 
fibre  arranged  around  tlie  edges  and  is 
euppMed  by  the  drippings  of  a  lump  of 
blubber  held  on  the  point  of  a  stick  in 
the  wailji  over  the  fiame.  Two  of  these 
lamps  yield  but  little  smoke  and  a  flame, 
say  explorers,  sufficient  to  read  and  write 
by  and  give  50  to  60  degrees  of  heat  in 
the  coldest  weather. 

In  their  clothing  theee  of  our  peop!e 
need  no  advice  from  tlieir  more  "^^epantly 
dressed  fe]ilorw-citissen»  of  lower  latTtndies. 
With  the  mercury  frozen  and  the  temper- 
ature running  riot  away  down  to  the  eigh- 
ties belofw  zero  they  evidently  know  their 
business.  The  skinsi  of  the  reindeer  in 
divers  stages  of  pela^  from  fetal  to  full 
grown,  mountain  shee^,  white  and  blue 
foxes,  wolf,  dog,  emune  and  lynx  skins 
are  used  for  the  hooded  ooata  or  piarkas; 
eider  duck  for  underdo theis,  deer  skin  for 
knee  breeches  and  boots,  inside  stockings 
and  slippers.  Under  such  conditions 
these  exceed  cheviots  and  cloths,  doe  skin 
and   beaver. 

The  women's  dress  is  very  similar  to 
that  of  the  men  with  the  exception  of  a 

Socket  at  the  nape  of  the  neck  for  the 
ead  of  their  offspring,  which  they 
snuggle  away  on  their  backs  in  their  fur 
frocks.  The  chjldresn  also  dress  as  their 
elders.  The  mittens  worn  are  generally 
made  with  the  fur  inside.  The  wooden 
or  bone  snow  goggles  are  also  an  indis- 
pensable article. 

The  clothing  is  sometimes  attractively 
ornamented  with  bamdls  of  furs  of  other 
shades  and  often  with  belts  of  wover^ 
feathera,  wolverine  toes  and  porcupine 
quills,  with  ivory  fasteners. 

The  tatooir^  of  the  women,  generally 
on  the  chin,  is  by  way  of  ornamimt. 
Among  the  men  it  is  a*mairk  of  distinc- 
tion for  the  number  of  whales  taken  or 
other  acts  of  heroism.  The  hair  is  usu- 
ally banged  in  front  and  worn  long  on 
the  eddes.     The  mem  wear  head  band^, 

186 


i 


]in  liriMiiaaiiiHHirririiwirii  •nitmt 


WONDERLAND 

eonnngs  and  labrets,  a  stud  shape  lip  orna- 
ment of  bone  or  soapetone,  usually  one 
at  each  end  of  the  mouth.  The  womien 
woar  neck  ornaments  and  bracelets  of 
beads  or  amber  picked  up  on  the  beach, 
finger  rings  and  comibs  of  varied  deugnr. 
wrought  out  of  walrus,  ivory  or  reinde.(r 
antlers. 

They  are  just  as  fond  of  and  faacinat- 
ing  in  these  exterior  decorations  as  are 
the  daughters  of  Bve. 

The  earlier  mechanical,  building  and 
skin,  working  implemients  in  use  were 
made  of  »Jate,  flint  and  whalebone,  with 
wood'Cn  or  bone  bafts  held  by  sinew  or 
raw  Mde  thongs,  amtler  chisels,  deer  sca- 
pula saws,  bone  bow  drills  and  bores  and 
flint  reamers.  The  natives  knew  nothing 
of  metialis  until  brought  into  the  country 
by  the  early  explorers  and  whalers.  They 
are  now  in  use  when  they  can  be  hiad  in 
barter. 


f 


187 


I 
1 


kouiiTic  um 


i 


'i 
t 


IS 


LETTER  NUMBER  XVII. 


A  Continaed  Story  of  Eskimo- 
imerican  Arctic  Life. 


The  Fierce  Athabascan  Hunters  of 

the  Yukon  and  Daring  Thling- 

ket  Fishermen  of  the 

irchapelago. 


A    K«tlTe  People  Mcrgtng  Into   Cltlxen- 
■hip. 


Our  fellow-countrymen  from  the  Arctic 
zone  of  the  urisdietion  of  the  United 
States  still  cling  to  one  of  the  oe".ebrafted 
historical  methods  of  slaying  enemies. 

Their  chief  weapon,  rivalling  Samson's 
famous  "new  jaw  bone  of  an  ass,"  iia  the 
jaiw  bone  of  a  walrus,  also  dlaggers  of 
bear's  bone,  hand  clubs  of  whale  bone, 
bows  of  sinew-backed  spruce,  with  flinb- 
ed  and  feathered  arrows,  seal  skin  quiv- 
ers, darts,  harpoons,  lances  of  seal,  wnalie 
or  walrus  bone,  and  six-balled  bGila;9es  of 
ivory  for  throwing  at  birds. 

All  their  weapons  are  used  in  the  vo- 
cations of  pctace  and  thus  far  never  in 
war. 

The  use  of  firearms  was  commenced  af- 
ter 1837,  and  are  now  common  both  for 
hunting  on  land  and  whale,  seal,  waltuis, 
fishing?  on  the  sea. 

They  have  various  native  appliances  als 
decoys  and  floats  for  the  chase  and  river 
189 


i*n 


OUR  ALABKAN 


'  I 


fishing.  Also  a  fox  and  wolf  trap  whiich 
is  takinigr  not  a  very  fair  advantage  of 
Rerniard  and  his  earniverous  "pal,  the 
wolf. 

It  conslsta  of  a  piece  of  bent  whale  bone 
frozen  in  blubber.  The  voracioiiB  animnt 
siyiy  bolting  the  morseX  in  the  course  of 
warmth  «nd  digestion  suddenly  experi- 
ences the  sensations  of  having  swallowed 
an  uan'brella  or  to  that  efifect.  The  griz- 
zly bear,  brave  in  romaoice  and  cowardly 
in  fact,  takes  a  smart  pnir  of  limbs  to 
catch  him  over  the  ice  and  whines  moum- 
fuWy  if  caught  in  the  water. 

The  bowhead  wlia'e  of  the  sen  rivals 
the  reindeer  of  the  land  in  usefulness  to 
the  comfort  and  convenience  of  the  Eski- 
mo-Americ«n.  It  furnishes  food  and  oil 
for  domestic  uses  and  skin,  sinews  and 
bone  uiseful  in  their  domestic  arts. 

The  pre-eminence  of  the  whale  in  Eski- 
mo economy  and  glory  is  showi.  by  the 
gire«it  drumming,  singing  and  incantation 
which  attends  the  consocration  of  the 
whaling  outfit  to  its  thrilling  uses. 

For  making  fibres  they  use  ivory  shut- 
tles, netting  needles,  mesh  sticks, 
"swords;"  for  feather  weaving,  bone 
needles,  cases,  ivory  thimbles  and  trin- 
ket boxes  of  walruis  tusks.  Their  basket 
weaving  is  quite  artistic. 

The  principal  means  of  locomotion  and 
Iransportaition  is  the  kaink,  a  skin-covei'- 
ed  canoe,  19  feet  long  and  18  inches  wide, 
decked  over  except  an  o|>ening  in  the 
middle  for  the  man  paddling  it  to  sit  In. 
Every  Eekimo-Americam  man  or  boy 
owns  one  of  these  indispensible  craft. 

The  umiak,  another  water  conveyance, 
is  a  lairge  open  skin  boat,  used  by  the 
Eskimos,  Aleuts  and  Silxn-inns  in  travel- 
ing, hunting  or  fiahing.  The  whaling 
Timiak  is  made  of  the  l)cairded  sealskin. 
The  women,  who  are  as  daring  as  the 
men,  usually  steer  the  boat,  and  display 
great  skill  and  courage.  They  also  fre- 
quently assist  in  whaling  and  also  in  wal- 
rus hunting  and  sealing. 

Thie  land     journeys     of     the  Eskirao- 

Amei'ican  in  winber  are  made  with  light 

and  heavy  sleds,  the  former  for  smaller 

articles  and  the  latter  for  heavy  freight. 

100 


WONDERLAND 


] 


They  are  made  of  drift-wood,  »hod  with 
strips  of  whaJe  jaw.  Some  have  ivory 
riimieTa. 

I'*he  men  and  women  travel  on  foot, 
'.y»in)?  snoW'SliooH  where  necessary.  The 
sledH  are  drawn  by  dogs,  ten  making  a 
larjfe  team,  hameased  by  means  of 
stont  raw-hide  collar  bands  and  stripe. 
It  is  the  practice  for  women  to  go  ahead 
to  en<?ouraBe  the  team.  Some  of  these 
animalH  aire  as  large  as  Newfoundland 
do»ps.  In  Holland  it  is  not  unoommon  to 
see  a  wonnan  and  a  cow  dragging  a  plow, 
while  hvr  lazy  "lortl  and  master"  holds 
the  haiwlles,  and  still  she  has  no  "say," 
as  her  Eskimo  sister  has,  in  affairs. 

The  hunting;  scores  of  whales  killed  and 
walrxis  and  reindeer  captured  are  always 
carefully  kept  on  ivory  tablets  in  sort  of 
heii'Oglyphics.  They  are  also  quite  expert 
in  carving  in  ivory,  sonpstone  and  bone, 
figures  of  men  and  animal's.  The  Eskmo- 
Americaii  is  not  given  to  gambling.  There 
is  a  manly  game  of  twisters  and  marline 
spikes,  and  a  children's  game  of  fox  and 
geese. 

Their  festivals  are  semi-religious  and 
dramatic  with  various  costumes  and  ap- 
pUanees,  dancinig  cap«  and  gorgets,  rat- 
tle mittens,  8tuffe<l  heads  of  savage  ani- 
mals and  wooden  masks.  The  Imitation 
of  fierce  amiima'is  plays  an  important  part 
in  their  entertainments. 

Their  mechanical  animals,  mounted  on 
whnleVoine,  are  quite  remarkable  con- 
trivances. Otiir  Eskimo  citizen  was  in 
advanw:  in  this  line  cf  toy  as  otir  own 
are  of  recent  date.  A  fox  springing  and 
a  raven  packing  back  la  one  of  their  favor- 
ite toys. 

For  a  stolid,  sedaite  people  the  Eskimo- 
American  does  a  good  shlai-e  of  singing 
and  daincing  away  of  the  long  winter 
nights.  Their  "wood"  or  "tree"  dances 
last  two  days  and  nights.  They  are  held 
in  the  kudyigi  or  club  house,  aboiit  200 
often  being  present  in  the  Point  Barrow 
native  villages. 

The  entertainment  consists  of  singing, 

usually  furnished  by  the  old  men,  a    new 

use  for  superannuated  huma.nity,  though 

likely  not  very  tuneful,  accompanied  by 

191 


'V. 


'iH 


■y 


OUR  ALASKAN 


111 


!■«  ■ 


a  tambourine-like  drum,  their  oaly  musi- 
cal instrument,  formed  of  membrane 
stretched  over  a  ho>>p,  with  a  handle,  and 
beaten  by  a  piece  of  ivory  alternately  on 
cither  side. 

The  men.  women  and  young  people  join 
in  the  dolefu?  din,  going  through  all  the 
motions  of  hunung.  The  men,  disguised 
as  aaimals,  crawl  on  all  fours,  swinging 
their  beads  to  the  tune.  Suddenly  stand- 
ing erect,  they  jump  about  frantically. 
They  are  not  given,  hoAvever,  to  orgies 
in  their  festival  diversions. 

The  toys  consist  of  whirligigs,  spinning 
tee  totems,  buzz-wheels,  and  whizzing 
sticks.  Many  of  their  toys,  like  dolls, 
drumi  players  and  kaiak  paddlers  are  me- 
chanical and  ingenious.  The  women  are 
exceedingly  dexterous  in  cam'  cradle, 
making  the  most  difficult  figures  like  the 
reindeer.  They  are  also  expert  in  tossing 
up  three  balls  and  skipping  rope. 

The  mnsical  manifestations  of  these 
interesting  fellow-coimtry  men  and  wo- 
men consists  of  a  minor  chant-like  mooi'- 
tony  of  sound  in  common  time,  usually 
sung  in  refrain.  The  voices  of  the  young 
women  are  naturally  soft  and  both  -sexes 
shiow  a  fondness  for  music. 

Marriage  is  for  companionship  and  gen- 
erally arranged  by  the  parents.  The 
courtship  i.«t  usually  done  in  song.  The 
hoineyTnoon  is  i>a.ss<Hl  in  hunitiug.  The 
children  are  born  in  the  snow  huts  and 
carried  under  the  mother's  frock. 

The  people  are  naturally  cleanly  in 
their  habits,  a-lthougb  nature  is  very 
much  against  th<Mti.  In  salu'tation  they 
exclaim  "Nakunak"  good  and  shake 
bands  instead  of  rubl)ing  noses. 

In  the  healing  art  they  practloe  exor- 
cising. 

After  death  the  body  is  wrapped  in 
deer  skin  and  carried  on  a  sled  to  the 
spot  where  "they  sleep  on  the  pronnd," 
with,  their  broken  instrumenta  !iaid  by 
their  sides.  Owing  to  the  frozen  earth 
interment  is  impracticable.  The  bodies 
are  not  uiifre<iuently  devoured  by  the 
dogs  and  foxes. 

The  Eskimo-American  has  no  civil  gov- 
ernment of  his  own  other  than  that  time 
193 


rj*v, 


d  gen- 
The 
The 
The 

?s  and 


WONDERLAND 

honored  inadtution.  kniovm  as  "petticoat" 
govemment.  Hia  wife  is  not  only  has 
companion,  but  his  counsellor  in  all  his 
affa'rs  in  the  domestic  '•••"•!e  or  in  the 
frigid  zone  at  large.  Nor  nave  they  any 
religion  entitled  to  be  called  so.  They 
have  no  thought  of  a,fu'ture,possibly  owing 
to  the  imperious  exigencies  of  the  present. 
They  have  a  vague  idea  of  a  Tuaiia,  a 
STiper-natural  being,  with  power  of  re- 
ward and  punishmenit,  the  latter,  to  be  sent 
to  a  distant  country,  a  sort  of  Eskimo  ex- 
pedient applied  to  our  home  trouiblesome 
"statesman  out  of  e  job,"  "a  consuleftij^ 
in  a  hot  dimate." 

They  wear  amoilets  for  lu'ck.  The  Shamr 
ana  are  their  medicine  mem  and  with  the 
paramiouint  assistance  of  nature  often 
take  the  credit  of  marvelous  cures. 

Our  Alaskan  fellow-citizens  of  the 
Yukon  and  Copper  River  regions  shade 
down  from  the  Eskimo  type  to  suit  their 
somewhat  modified  physical  surround- 
ings. In  their  essendal  characteristies 
of  physical  appearance  families,  dwell- 
ing's, moiles  of  living,  don.i^stic  economy, 
dress,  ornaments,  habits,  manners,  cus- 
torafi,  ceremonies,  industries  and  diver- 
pioni?(  there  is  vei'y  little  diCFerence.  Tliey 
Kave  at  times  shown  a  warlilce  spirit,  ns 
in  a  massacre  of  R«is»ians  in  1848.  They 
h«v€)  the  Indian  faculty  of  cun- 
ning and  locality  and  follow 
game  or  brailB  through!  the  intri- 
ca-eies  o-f  the  mountain  with  mierring  in- 
stinct. Their  food  differs,  in  consisting 
entirely  of  caribou,  moose  aad  the  other 
large  and  small  game  of  the  land  an<l 
fish  in  the  streams,  besides  the  many 
varieties  of  iMnries  and  a  sub- Arctic  pars- 
nip. Some  of  the«e  are  dried  for  winter 
use. 

The  moose  fat.  so  valuable  in  the  rude 
larder  of  the«e  natives,  is  run  into  the 
small  intestines  of  animals  for  preserva- 
tion and  transportation.  Even  the  blood 
of  animals  is  savefl  in  the  paunch. 

They  treat  their  women  as  drudges 
after  they  are  nijarrio<l.  A  boy  five  years 
old  takes  prece<lenice  of  his  mother  and 
enjoys  with  the  men  the  "J)e«t  cuts"  of 
the  meats  and  the  choice  of  the  domestic 
193 


& 


;ii 


m 


f 


I  -I 


OUR  ALASKAN 

larder,  of  wlbichi  the  women  take  the 
refuse. 

As  a  beverage  they  make  a  native  tea 
and  a  drink  out  of  lamb  kill,  a  variety 
of  kplmJa  which  grows  wild  and  has  a 
decided  phrenetic  effect.  This  drink  is 
known  to  the  natives  of  the  Hudson  Bay 
and  Labrador  regions. 

They  use  boats,  the  Biadairra,  miade  of 
moose  skin  stretched  ovei  a  frame  fast- 
ened together  by  thongs,  which  they  pad- 
dle. For  hasty  use  they  construct  rafts 
of  four  logs  which  they  punt  along. 

Thiey  use  on.  land  in  summer  women's 
and  doigsi"  baclcs  and  in  winter  dog  sleds 
for  transportation.  The  men  carry  them- 
selves and  their  weapons. 

They  are  '^nd  of  singing  and  work  and 
woo  and  w    Je  away  their  timo  in  song. 

Their  singing  is  said  to  resemble  the  re- 
frains of  the  Apache  Indians.  I  have 
heard  thicse  savages  in  their  hunting,  war 
and  scalp  dances  and  incantations,  which 
consists  of  a  minor  chant-like  sound  with 
a  long  accent  on  the  last  syllable. 

The  goods  of  a  deceased  person  are 
divided  among  the  tribe,  his  late  domicile 
is  burned  and  his  body  buried.  The 
widow  may  reg'ard  herself  fortunate  to 
escape  the  general  obliteration  or  distribu- 
tion of  the  departed's  earthly  possessions. 

These  people  have  a  simple  social  or- 
gnnization.  In  their  local  iisscmhlies  the 
men  sit  according  to  rank,  the  Tyon4>s  at 
the  head,  the  Shamans  or  Medicine  Men 
next  and  the  V.v^.iJs  la.st,  which  has  a 
rude  rois<.mblance  to  the  e.iirlief  feudal 
system  of  the  Old  World. 

The  Alents  still  cling  to  many  of  the 
manners,  customs  and  appliances  in  com- 
mon with  the  other  native  races,  but  have 
ndvancetl  so  far  toward  Russian  methods 
ideas  and  lajiiguage  that  they  are  not 
likely  to  revert  to  their  former  ways  of 
life.  They  are  a  brave  sea-faring  people, 
adapted  to  the  life  of  thoir  mid-ocean 
island  homes. 

The  Athabaiscams,  the  interior  Indian 
race,  which  lives  on  hunting  and  fishing, 
are  allied  by  racial  chairacteristics  to  our 
own  Apaches  and  Navajoes  of  the  planes 

194 


J 


t 


the 


J 


t 


WOTUDERLAJfD 


and,  Rockies,  except  their  blood-thirsty  in- 
stincts for  wnr  ntid  cmelty. 

They  are  known  in,  tlieir  native  ton^e 
as  Tinneli.  They  are  a  tal\  finely  de- 
veloped, eowrapeoii'S  and  proud  race  and 
display  many  of  the  characteristics  of  the 
bettor  tyi^e  cf  their  kiaasmen  across  the 
Amerioan  border. 

They  are  chiefly  enpaged  in  fisbinj?  and 
hnntinp.  They  consider  it  a  disgrace  to 
kiU  a  black  bear,  the  fiercest  of  the  fami- 
ly, with  powder  and  bnll.  When  they  en- 
counter "Mr.  Bruin"  in  the  forest,  they 
acoordiniffly  boldly  attack  liim  with  a 
knife.  These  deeds  of  prowess  are  great- 
ly esteemed  among  their  people. 

The  AthSbawcans  are  a  polygamous  race 
having  several  wives.  Infanticide  is  aliso 
very  common.  They  deposit  their  dead  in 
boxes  above  the  ground. 

Thedr  habita  and  miodes  of  life  partake 
more  of  the  barbarous  than  uf  the 
savage  state. 

They  have  had  for  years  more  or  less 
contf.ct  with  the  stations  of  the  Hudsoo 
Bay  Company  and  latterly  with  the  gold 
miners  of  the  Yukon  and  its  American 
and   Britj.'^hi  tributaries. 

The  Thlimg^kPts  and  their  kindred,  the 
Timpseans  and  Haidas  aie  coini^risoil  in 
ten  tribes  and  dwell  on  the  islainds  and 
main  land  of  Southeastern  Alaska. 

They  are  a  vigorous,  athletic,  indus- 
trious and  slirewd  people.  Their  primitive 
h^abats  are  gradually  giving  way  to  Amcri- 
cam  modes  of  life.  Their  chief  employ- 
ment in  their  native  state  is  hunting  and 
fishing.  They  have  long  lived  in  a  mde 
wfly  after  the  manner  of  the  Ruiasian, 
former  possossions.  They  seek  oocupatioM 
in  d«ii!y  employment. 

As  packers  th(^y  are  of  grrat  va'ue  to 
the  prospectors  and  miners  ii*  the  present 
stampede  over  the  severe  const  range 
portage  to  the  Yukon  route  to  tbe  glitter- 
ing tributary  streams  in  Alaska  and  Klon- 
dike. 

In  the  early  days  of  thcnr  known  his- 
tory they  were  of  a  warlike  spirit.  Their 
name  then  was  a  terror  alike  to  the  half- 
civilized  Aleut  and  the  predatory  Tinneh. 

195 


;3 


-J 


ill 


!l 


TIME'S  SCORE 


LETTER  NUMBER  XVIII. 


A    Chronological    Narration   of 
Alaskan  Events. 


The 


Rivah;/  of    Nations  for  the 
Wealth  of  the  Arctic. 


An   Ignominioa<)  Snrreiider  Which   Time 
and  the  People  Will  Amend. 

Tlie   Alaskan   Step   to  the    Muiilc   of  tbe 
Union. 


During  the  earli«iS't  period  of  discovery 
and  exploration  (1492-1500)  on  the  At- 
lantic and  Gulf  coasitsof  thoNoa-th  AiiKH-i- 
can  continent,  Jasper  Coitereal  (1500) 
siailed  into  the  Hudson  Bay,  thus  entering 
the  northwesf^o-u  water  passage  between 
the  oastem  and  western  aliores  of  Nortlh 
America. 

BaJboa  (1513)  ventui'ing  inland  upon 
what  happened  to  be  the  narrow  stretch 
of  territory  which  oonnec'ts  the  three 
Americasi  unexpectedly  sighted  the 
Waters  later  known  as  tine  Pacific. 

Magellan  (1520)  pasaed  from  ocean  to 
ocean  in  the  exti-eme  sonth,  through  the 
striait  whidi  bears  his  noone. 

Oortez  (1521)  fresh  from  his  conquest 
of  Mexico,  under  the  directions  of  his  im- 
perial master,  ventured  across  the  Pacific 
to  the  Indies  and  discovered  for  Spain  the 
archipelago  of  the  Phillipines. 

The  alluring  fields  of  the  Asiatic  orient 


OUR  ALASKAN 


i:     ( 


I 


diverted  attention  from  tlie  lesg  inviting 
regions  along  the  opposite  shores  of  the 
Pacific. 

CJabriJlo  (1542-3)  explored  California 
and  other  parts  of  the  Pacific  Coast. 

Drake  (1578-80)  aleo  visited  the  northern 
waters  of  the  same  ocean. 

The  harvest  of  trade  in  the  east  and 
the  attempts  at  colonizatioin  in  the  west 
so  completely  absorbed  the  atteaition  of 
the  maritime  nations  of  Europe  that  the 
waters  of  the  North  Pacific  were  left  in 
solitude  for  nearly  two  hundred  years. 

The  aotivity  of  Peter  the  Great  of  Rus- 
sia. (1724)  and  liis  imperi'al  widow,  Cath- 
erine, (1725)  aroused  fresh  interest  and 
rivalry  in  that  region. 

The  policy  of  Peter  and  Catherine  then 
has  been  thie  statesman-like  policy  of  the 
Russian  ruleiis  since.  I  have  spoken  of 
this  in  the  intemlational  story  of  "An 
Alaskan  Romianee,"  and  the  thrilling  ex- 
lieriences  of  Vitus  Bering  1728-30  and 
1732-1741  in  the  narrative  of  "Alaskan 
Discovery." 

The  immense  value  of  the  fur  trade  of 
tihe  region  which  found  a  profitable  mar- 
ket in  China  and  Russia  and  other  coun- 
tries of  Europe,  stimuiated  Russian  occu- 
poition  of  the  territory  greatly  to  the  un- 
easiness of  Spain  and  her  colonies  along 
the  Shores  of  the  South  Pacific  from  Terra 
del  Fuego  to  Mexico.  England,  then  a 
fomiidable  competitor  for  supremacy  in 
the  ooanmeree  of  the  high  seas,  also  dis- 
pJayed  concern. 

It  was  this  uneasiness  which  sent  Cap- 
tain James  Cook  (1776-8),  an  Englishman, 
to  the  Pacific,  visiting  our  own  Hawaiian 
Islands,  the  coast  of  our  own  Oregon  and 
northwoird  along  our  continental  shores 
to  Mount  St.  Mias,  and  around  the  pres- 
ent Alaskan  peninsula  into  Bering  Sea 
and  through  the  Sitrait  to  Icy  Cape,  term- 
inating his  adventurouis  career  in  a  fatal 
quarrel  with  the  natives  of  Hawaii. 

The  voyiage  of  Cook  unfolded  to  geo- 
graphicoil  science  the  vastnesa  of  what  is 
now  Alaska. 

The  Ruasians,  the  rightful  possessors 
by  title  of  discovery,     were  not  slow  to 

198 


)\ 


n '. 


WONDERLAND 


avail  themselTes  of  the  knowledge  Uma 
acquired.  The  furs  and  fish  of  the  Aleu- 
tian Islands  had  long  engaged  the  aitten- 
tian  of  their  traders. 

The  more  systematic  methods  now  pro- 
posed led  to  the  organization  (1781-3)  of 
a  trading  company  with  their  c<hief  sta- 
tiom  on  the  Kadiak  Island,  in  New  Rns- 
sda,  an  admirably  chosen  strategic  point 
for  either  commercial  or     warlike  pur- 

P^llSi^S. 

From  this  island  headquarters  the  Rus- 
sian dominion  spread  to  the  islands,  pen- 
inisulas  and  mainland  as  the  inteirests  of 
the  imperial  jurisdiction  and  trade  do- 
nianded. 

The  fur  trade  of  Kadiak  became  re- 
nowned thiToughouft  the  civilized  world. 
A  few  yeans  la,ter  (1786)  an  English  trad- 
ing vessel  appearied  in  Alaskan  waters. 

About  the  same  time  American  tttading 
vessels  from  Nantucket,  New  Beuford  and 
other  ports  of  the  Atlantic  carried  the 
flag  of  the  United  Stlates,  then  but  just 
born  into  the  family  of  naUons,  into  those 
remote  waters. 

This  was  followed  by  expJoring  expedi- 
tions, notably  French  (178(5,  I^a  Perouise,) 
English  and  Spanisih,  doubtless  more  as 
spies  upon  Russian  designs  in  that  quar- 
ter of  the  globe  than  in  the  interest  of 
science. 

An  imperial  ukase  (1787)  directed  the  oc- 
oupation  of  other  points  and  the  main- 
land as  a  precautionary  step  against  the 
machinations'  of  other  nations. 

It  was  reported  (1788)  to  the  Spanish 
Government  that  there  were  eLg"ht  settle- 
ments in  Alaska  west  of  Prince  William's 
Sound  on  the  mainland  east  of  the 
Kenai  Peninsula  with  a  new  station  then 
recently  established  at  the  mouth  of  Cop- 
per River,  east  of  that  sound. 

There  were  also  reports  of  contemplat- 
ed Russian  projects  further  south  in  ter- 
ritory claimed  by  Spain,  and  also  the  pro- 
posed occupation  of  Vancouver  Island  at 
Nootka  Sound,  on  the  ocean  side. 

These  movements  were  under  the  direct 
orders  of  the  Russian  Etnjjeror. 

Pending  these  misunderstandings  with 
199 


n 


V 


1 


!l  i 


OUR  ALASKAN 


\] 


'i*{ 


Iji 


i,   i  !) 


i! 


b  '."', 


il 


;! 


I ,    I 


Spain  (1786)  Britiah  merchants  trading  in 
i£e  West  Indies,  under  the  plea  of  Oook'a 
voyage,  locuted  a  settlement  under  British 
auspices  at  tlie  proposed  Russian  station, 
at  Nootka,  in  order  to  supply  the  Chinese 
market  with  furs.  The  fur  trade  witli 
Ohina  iiad  been  established  by  the  Rus- 
el'ans  years  earlier. 

The  survivors  of  Bering's  disastrous 
voyage  having  reached  the  Kaimtchatkan 
coast  oMd  in  the  furs  they  had  taken 
from  the  seal  and  seal  otter, 
aroused  the  oommercial  spirit  of  tlieir 
oountrsrmen.  Expeditions  for  more  extend- 
ed exploration  and  trading  were  at  otitio 
sent  into  tliese  undiscovewMl  sons,  over 
twenty  years  before  Cook's  visit  aiul 
resulted  in  the  Kadiak  and  other  settle- 
ments. 

T^e  ports  on  the  mainland  of  Asia, 
Avatsch'a  <aiad  Oehotsk  were  th«  depots 
for  the  overland  supply  of  furs  to  the 
Chinese  market  until  the  sea  route,  then 
unknown,  b€?came  revealed  to  Russian 
traders. 

The  presence  of  foreign  vessels  in  sus- 
pdcious  numbers  and  the  attempts  to 
share  the  brisk  and  profitable  trade  in 
furs  led  to  commiands  (1787)  from  the 
Emperv>r  to  occupy  the  mainland. 

T5ie  Spaniards  made  a  reconnoiissamce 
from  their  Mexican  colony  the  following 
year  (1788)  touching  at  Kadiak  and  Un- 
alaska  and  not  only  reported  many  set- 
tlements in  New  Rassia,  but  advanced  pre- 
tentions to  the  exclusive  jurisdiction  of 
the  western  shores  and  islands  of  the  Pa- 
cific. In  reply  to  a  remou»tranoe  the 
Spanish  Government  was  reques'ted  to 
mind  its  own  business,  as  the  Russian 
traders  were  acting  under  imperial  orders. 

Although  War  was  threatened  the  atten- 
tion of  Simin  was  diverted  in  a  new  di- 
rection. 

The  Spaniards,  dissatisfied  with  the 
Nootka  settlement  by  the  EfUglish  instead 
of  the  Russians',  captured  (1789)  the  Brit- 
ish ships  and  traders  at  that  point.  A 
general  war  was  averted  by  a  convention 
(1790)  according  free  commerce  to  both 
nations. 

800 


m 


4' 
I 


Nipi 


ill 


n 


I 

ml' 

WONDERLAND 


The  re^om  ea«t  of  the  present  interoa- 
tianal  longitude  141  west  waa  brought 
within  the  bounds  of  geographical  knowl- 
edge by  the  explorations  of  Alexamder 
Mackenzie  (1787-91-92)  from  Atlamitio 
waters  to  the  mouth  of  the  great  Polar 
river  whidh  bears  hi»  name  and  also  am 
overland  journey  to  the  Pacific. 

The  infant  Republic  of  the  Wesit  aa 
w©  have  seen  early  entered  actively  into 
the  rivalry  of  nations  for  the  valuable 
trade  of  <the  coasts  of  the  North  Pacific 
Ocean. 

Before  Captain  George  Vancouver,  who 
had  been  the  English  Oommisisionier  in 
the  Nootka  negotiations,  cruised  (1792-4) 
along  the  coasts  north  of  the  Spanish 
possesisioins  of  OaJifomia,  American  trad- 
ers were  engaged  in  a  lively  exploration 
aaid  barter  among  these  same  islands 
and  on  tflie  miainland  and  waiters  thereto 
adjacent. 

The  Russians,  who  were  the  foremost 
amd  most  fearless,  with  the  Amenicpne, 
in  these  regions  were  indebted  (1790)  to 
SheliikofiF,  one  of  their  traders,  for  organ- 
izing the  then  valuable  trade  of  the  North 
Pacific  coast  land  islands. 

Under  the  authority  of  lihe  Imi>eriaJ 
Government:  the  compiany  bearing  his 
name  was;  granted  a  monopoly  of  the 
trade. 

It  was  not  long  (1792)  before  Alexander 
Baramoff,  who  had  been  iai'  charge  on 
KadJak  Island  under  DelarefiF,  the  pre- 
viouai  chief,  found  himself  ait  the  head  of 
alTairs.  This  energetic  functionary  be- 
came a.a  much  of  ajn  autocrat  of  all  Alas- 
ka- as  the  Emperor  himiselif  wias  autocrat 
of  aU  the  Russias. 

An  attempt  to  form  a  settlement  of 
convicts  aaad  monks  on  the  mainlamd'  near 
Mount  St.  Ellas  ivroved  a  failure. 

Two  years  later  (1795)  another  attempt 
was  miade  on  Yakutat  Bay, 

The  impeidaJ  government  aibout  the 
same  time  chjarteredi  the  Russian  Ameri- 
can Company  fbr  20  years  with  exo'nsive 
franchises  north  of  the  parallel  of  55  de- 
grees north.  This  snperaeded  the  former 
Shelikoff  Compainiy.  Banunoff  was  placed 
in  control  of  the  Russian  Oompiany. 
201 

Pacifi-t'.^*'.'  IhtoryDept. 

PROViNC'AU  LIBRARY     ' 
VICTORIA,  B.  C. 


OUR  ALASKAN 


3 

m 


This  eiDterprifiing  official  erected  (1700) 
a  fort  on  a  'sbeltered  bey  on  the  oceam 
front  of  the  island  in  Sontheafrtem 
Alaska,  which  to-day  perpetuates  his 
name.  This  iK>rt  he  niamed  in  honor  of 
the  archan^}  Gabriel. 

The  trump  of  trade  soon  attracted 
American'  and  English  vessels  to  the  new 
post.  The  gi«at  convenience  of  the  lo- 
cation, geogpaphioally,  a  few  years  lateir 
(1804),  led  Baranoff  to  transfer  the  head- 
quarters of  the  colony  from  St.  PauOi,  on 
Kadiak  Island,  to  the  new  settiement,  to 
wihdch  he  gave  the  name  of  New  Ardhr 
angel. 

The  difficulty  of  eommamicatioii  with 
Buseda,  which  required  tnin8i>ortatio!n 
thousands  of  miles  acroew  Siberia  by  the 
slow  lapplianceis  of  travel  then  in  vogue 
and  many  more  miles  by  ocean  by  the 
lagging  sailing  vessels  of  the  day  led  the 
quick-witted  Baranoff  (1810)  to  make  an 
arranigement  to  obtain  food  supplies  from 
on  American  settlement  at  the  mouth,  of 
the  Columbia  now  in  Oregon,  establij^hed 
in  that  year,  which  received  the  name 
Astoria.  This  settlement,  under  the  aula- 
pioes  of  John  Jacob  Astor,  of  New  York, 
was  renowned  in  those  days  of  the  fur 
trade. 

A  short  time  after  Baranoff  acquired  a 
tract  of  land  in  California  then  owned 
by  Spain,  on  Bodega  Bay,  north  of  the 
rite  of  San  Francisco  Bay.  There  he 
erected  a  fort  and  stationed  a  colony  of 
agrdculturists  to  raise  cattle,  «n«ain  and 
vegetables  for  the  Russian- American  set- 
tlements. 

After  a  long  period  of  active  service, 
Baranoff  having  retired,  a  new  governor 
of  the  Ckrman  name  Hagenmeister  waa 
placed  over  the  affairs  of  the  Russian 
Company. 

The  Russdan-American  poasesaians  now 
began  to  assume  sufficient  importance  to 
atti!act  more  of  the  attentiom  of  the  Gov- 
ernment at  home.  The  mantigement  of 
the  company  under  the  somewhat  hig'h.- 
haxuded  methods  of  Baranoff  led  to  re- 
forms which,  however,  were  short  Mved. 

At  this  time  (1819)  there  were  four  or 
five  stationisi  on  the  Aleutian  Isles  and 
202 


WONDERLAND 


aevea  on  the  ran  in  land  and  i»iaiuls  on 
Cook  InJet,  ChiiKacli  Gulf  and  BaranofE 
Island^  the  latter  being  the  capital. 

Dunng  the  governorship  of  Muravieff, 
which  beg'an  in  (1820)  the  Imperial  Gov- 
ernment in  1821  issuetl  a  ukase  not  otnily 
claiming  all  the  region  north  of  the  50tli 
parallel,  hut  extended  the  francliises  of 
the  convuny  for  another  term  of  tweinity 
yearn. 

The  extension  of  the  Russian  boun- 
dary BO  far  soii*h  called  for  action  on  the 
part  of  the  United  States,  which  Govern- 
ment had  acquired  that  coast  from  Spain 
in  the  purchase  (1820)  of  the  Territoi-y  of 
Filorida.  That  region  had  very  rambling 
lines  of  boumdary.  Beginning  on  the  At- 
lantic and  Gulf  of  Mexico,  it  sti'etehed 
across  the  continent  and  was  only  limited 
by  the  Pacific  Ocean  in  the  far  northwest 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River,  now 
in  Gregooi. 

The  difference,  however,  was  peaceful- 
ly adjusted,  as  had  mid  always  has  been 
the  fact  in  negotiations  between  the  grent 
Republic,  of  America,  and  the  great  Em- 
pire, of  Europe  and  Asia. 

The  divisional  line  between  the  Russian 
and  American  posseaaions  on  the  Pacific 
by  treaty  (1824)  was  located  at  54  degrees 
40  minutes.  Tinder  this  instrument  both 
nations  hiad  the  freedom  of  trade  along 
the  entire  coast. 

The  treaty  of  1825  betweem  Russia  and 
Eng'iand  made  the  same  arrangement 
ais  to  boundary  and  trade. 

The  strip  between  the  Spanish  Florida 
purchase  by  the  United  States  aind  the 
Russian  possessions  gave  rise  to  a.  long 
and  acute  controversy  between  the  United 
States  and  England. 

This  culminated  for  the  time  being 
(1846)  in  a  disgr'aceful  and  univeraailly 
condemned,  patched-up  arrangement  be- 
tween the  United  States  and  Bnglajnd  es- 
tablishing the  49th  paraKiel  north  as  the 
northern  limit  of  the  United  States, 
instead  of  permitting  England  to  enjoy 
the  assumption!  of  the  line  of  54-4()  as  the 
northem  limits  of  her  possessSons  in  thiajt 
quarter  toward  Russia. 
One  of  theaWest  statesmenof  the  United 
203 


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01712  ALASKA?'^ 

States  chfliracterized  thdis  make-shift  as  the 
most  ignominious  eompromi*?  that  has 
ever  diisgracrd  the  anmails  of  Amerioan 
diplomacy.  This  infamous  snrrendier  coift- 
tnary  to  the  oft-repeated  ffienKily  intima- 
tions of  the  aiber  and  more  far-seeing 
Emperors  and  »tatesmen  of  Russia  to  the 
United  States  to  close  np  its  XKX^sessiooai 
to  54-40,  having  fixed  the  line  at  the  49tih 
paraUtil  left  am  open  cause  of  intemia- 
tional  irritaition  which  sooner  or  later  ini 
the  development  of  the  United  States' 
Padfic  comimonwealths   wi'll   unless  ad- 

J*u3ted  lead  to  a  third  war  with  Eng- 
and,  with  more  disastrou»  resultsi  to  the 
latter  power  than  it  experienced  in  1776 
and  1812. 

The  chief  director,  Ohi«trkoff  (1825) 
aibandoned  New  Anshiamgel  as  the  capital 
and  retnmpd  to  the  original  headquarters 
of  Russian  operations  at  St.  Paul,  on  Ka^ 
diak  Island. 

Baron  WrangeJ^  (1831),  the  new  gover- 
nor, however,  restored  New  Archiangel  to 
th<^  dignity  of  the  seat  of  acTmaniwtrative 
authority. 

The  Russdan-Amerioan  possessions  also 
ceased  (1833)  to  be  the  dumping  ground 
of  criminals  and  convicts,  the  territory 
being  thrown  open  to  all  Russian  sub- 
jects for  colonization. 

The  affairs  of  the  Russian  possesslona 
in  America  gave  increasing  disisatis- 
faction  to  the  Government.  In  the  mean- 
time the  region  was  being  explored  and 
mapped  atixi  trading  stations  were  erected 
at  convenient  i)oint8. 

The  whale  fisheries  in  those  Arctic 
waters,  which  wei-e  innuguirated  by  the 
Americains  in  1848,  at  once  assumed  as- 
tounding dimensions  and  increased  the 
ti'lctlon  growing  out  of  the  management 
by  the  Russian  company. 

At  leng'th  affairs  assumed  a  crisis  which 
resulted  (1S62|  in  the  Emperor  refusing 
to  continue  the  charter,  which,  Laying 
been  renewed  in  1844,  would  expire  'n 
1864. 

In  thda  condition  matteiis  went  along  in 
a  state  of  official  suspended  animation  un- 
til Mafcsutoff,  having  been  named  (18G4) 

204 


»  ^ 


WOJJDERLATfiD 

Imperial  Governor,  arrived  in  the  colony 
and  assumed  dii'ection  of  affairs. 

This  efficient  officer  was  still  in  the  ex- 
ercise of  hiis  duties  when  the  Imperial 
and  United  States  Commissionieirs  and. 
troops  arrived  at  the  little  cajpital,  New 
Archangel,  in  October,  1867,  to  consiim- 
mate  the  treaty  of  cession  by  the  trans- 
fer of  the  territory. 

The  interesting  story  of  this  event  in 
told  in  this  volume  under  the  caption  "Uni- 
furling  the  P"'lag." 

Upon  the  acquisition  of  the  territory 
by  thie  United  States  the  capital  on  Bar- 
anoff  Island,  under  its  Russian  occupants 
known  as  New  Archangel,  became  Sitka 
in  name,  and  continued  in  the  distinction 
of  being  the  seat  of  Government  under 
the  new  jurisdietf-j'ji. 

Having  thus  succinctly  traversed  the 
long  period  of  Russian'  history,  it  ma^  be 
added  in  oo<ujtiiixia.tio(n,  under  United 
States  authority.  The  Russian  population 
in  1867  comprised  simply  the  officers  and 
traders!  aibout  590  in  all  most  of  wihtoon 
were  half-breods.  The  Greek  Church,  by 
aivthoiity  of  the  Emperor,  had  established 
mission  stations  ami  ischools  for  their  own 
people  and  tlie  nstivcsi. 

Thi>  Unit' J  States  Govemment,  after 
the  transfer,  stationed  a  detachment  of 
United  States  troops  at  New  Archangel, 
then  named  Sitka,  and  retained  as  the 
capital. 

After  repeated  efforts  on  thfe  part  of 
the  Americans  in  the  territory  to  secure 
a  form  of  civil  government  in  1881,  the 
contention  of  Juaeau  sent  its  representa- 
tive, M.  D.  Ball,  to  the  NationaJ  Capital 
to  urge  its  claims  to  prox)er  legislation. 

It  was  not,  however,  until  May  17th, 
18Skt,  that  the  bill  presented  by  United 
States  Senator  Benjamin  Harrison,  be- 
came a  law  and  the  organic  act  of  Alaska. 
T'^  district  was  provided  with  a  few 
necessary  administrative  privileges,  in- 
cluding civil,  judicial  and  customs  offi- 
cers and  a  resident  commissioner  for  eaciii 
of  the  chief  tovsms,  all  appointed  by  the 
President  amd  confirmed  by  the  Senate, 
The  former  Russian  capital,  N^nv  Arch- 
angel, was  continued  as  the  capital  under 
205 


3*?rr 


pi 


& 


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i-   (I 


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1 ' 

t,'i 

IP  ! 

!( 

f  ■ 

OUR  ALASKAN  WONDERLAND 

the  iiame  Sitka.  The  laws  of  Oregon, 
administea-ed  by  an  Oregon  judge,  were 
declared  the  law»  of  Alaska. 

There  were  also  many  details  protect- 
ing th"  vast  timber  and  Tninerft)  laiJs 
from  apoiliation,  regulating  f' '^  r^  ^v 
of  jseals  killed  under  the  terc  •;  ;';  ;- 
tract  with  a  private  company,  tDni  ySi>- 
bibiting  the  sale  of  spirituous  liqaois. 

In  1888  the  precedent  of  admitting' 
delegates  from  Alaska  to  seats  in  national 
political  conventions  was  established  by 
the  Democrats,  v/hich  was  also  adopted 
by  the  Republican  party. 

The  Jimeau  convention  of  Republicans 
of  1889  chose  Minor  W.  Bruce  to  present 
the  claims  of  Alaska  to  more  elaborate 
organic  legislation  to  Congress. 

The  censnis  of  1890  showed  a  white 
Indian,  Mongoli'nm,  mixed'  bliood  total:  i>op- 
ulation  of  32.043.  The  expansion  of  in- 
dustry also  presented  further  claims  to 
consideration. 

Nof:wi'thst{»"<;ilng  the  rapid  development 
of  the  seal,  s*  mon  and  other  Ashing,  and 
gold  and  other  mining  industries,  the 
growing  trade  in  articles  of  export  and 
import  and  the  consequent  influx  of  popu 
lation,  naturallv  some  of  a  very  restive 
character,  Congress  continued  its  policy 
of  neglect  and  ir.difference  to  the  affairs 
of  Alaska. 

The  year  1897  found  an  abnormal  con- 
dition of  affairs  in  the  rush  to  Alaska 
and  Klondike  gold  fields,  the  latter  on 
foreign,  soil.  Th!e  lEW-»'biding,  orderly  in- 
stincts of  the  American  citizen  alone  <: 
abled  civil  government,  industry  and 
trade  to  purwue  their  primitive  way  with- 
out a  reiteration  of  the  scen^eis  of  lawless- 
ness which  attended  the  first  flush  of  VJ:.; 
gold  craze  in  California. 

The  exigencies  of  the  new  condition  '  f 
things  were  met  as  far  as  practicable  by 
departmental  orders,  acting  under  iixecu- 
tive  authority. 

The  demands  <>i'  "G'*t;'»ter  Alaska"  are 
being  met  '  i  the  p«*.\)ed  book  of  th« 
mysterioiTs  uture  op  "'j^  its  pages  to  a 
wcndei'ing  vorld. 

206 


Oregoa, 
e,  were 

protect- 

j    la  -iJs 


.Tin]    iiX\>' 

ucrs. 
imitting 
national 
shed  by- 
adopted 

^blicans 
(  present 
ilaborate 

1  white 
otal:  pop- 
►n  of  in- 
laims  to 

elopment 
ling,  and 
riles,  the 
port  and 
of  popu 
V  restive 
ts  policy 
le  affairs 

-mal  con- 
)  Alaska 
atter  on 
rderly  in- 
alone  t^ 
3try  and 
v^ay  withr 
f  lawless- 
ish  of  >. . 

adition  f 
ticfible  by 
er  iJxecu- 

aska"  are 
k  of  the 
ages  to  a 


1 


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; 


SITKA, 


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il!' 


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i 


OurAlasbWonderland 


LETTER  NUMBER  XIX. 


The  Quaint  Russian  Capital  of 
Oof  y^^st  Alaskan  Domain. 


The  Growing  Towns  of  the  Fntnre 
Archipelago  'State"  of  South- 
eastern Alaska. 


Am  "lojr  WUdcmeas"  In  Debate  Trmns- 

formed  Into  »  Realization  ot  Hnman 

Habitations  and  Increasing 

^nrealtb. 


The  logical  arrangement  of  the  distimc- 
tive  ^hymcail  charactenstlcs  of  Alaska, 
into  SIX  geographical  areas.,  smggosted  by 
Ivan  Petroff,  United  States  Treasury  ex- 
pert in  that  region,  has  been  described  un- 
der the  caption  "Alaskan  Pos8ibdIitie«." 

I  shall  now  obsei've  the  same  arrauge- 
menit  in  thei  grouiping  of  Alaska  towns  and 
trading  posts. 

The  official  maps  of  Alaska  portray  an 
amount  of  geogxaphioal  detail  which  must 
surprise  even  an  otherwise  well-po«ted 
Amerioan  citizen.  Alaska  is  not  the  vast 
unknown  wilderness  which  many  of  our 
people  aire  even  at  this  remote  day  in  the 
habit  of  unthinkingly  believing,  from  the 
contemporaneous  talk  of  inglorious  croak- 
ers of  the  Fortieth  Congress,  the  pro- 
British  Lnfluenee  and  lobby  of  political 
bummers  then  so  rife. 

The  term  "Alaska,"  in  the  vernacular  of 
the  early  naitive  races,  means  "Grreat 
209 


i        If 


r  i! 


1'  ■  ii 


:  ^i 


!:« 


U  i' 


If 


) 


:|if'! 


OVR  ALASKAN 

Land."  And  so  it  is,  but  there  is  before 
us  in  this  age  of  progress  and  utilitarian 
enterprise  a  "greater  Alaska."  That  vast 
region  is  dotted  with  located  settlements 
and  native  hamlets  from  the  fightinig  par- 
allel 54  40  to  Point  Barrow  and  from  the 
10  marine  league  line  and  141  meridian 
west,  to  the  extremity  of  the  Aleutian 
Islands,  where  the  west  is  transformed, 
by  coisimic  science,  into  the  east. 

Our  concern  in  this  connection  ia  with 
communities  and  minor  settlements  estab- 
lished in  the  interests  of  civilization  and 
its  varied  activities. 

In  Southeastern  Alaiska,  desci'ibed 
under  "Alaskan  Possibilities,"  Sitka  was 
not  only  the  earliest  Russian  station  in 
that  mysterious  portion  of  the  globe,  but 
it  is  to-day  the  American  capital. 

If  it  were  possible  to  look  in  upon  the 
Battery  end  of  the  Island  of  Manliattan 
at  the  time  when  that  fa.mou9  puffer  of 
pipe  smoke,  Wouter  Van  Twiller  repre- 
sented tiidr  "High  Mightinesses  the 
States  General"  'j;  the  gubernatorial 
office  of  New  Ne 'nierlamds,  we  would  find 
ourselves  in  the  midst  of  a  town  which 
would  in  a  measure  suggest  the  Sitka 
of  to-day. 

The  earlier  community  was  the  capital 
of  the  Dutch  possessions  in  North  Ameri- 
ca which  then  included  both  the  North 
(Hudson)  and  South  (Delaware)  rivers  as 
Sitka  is  the  capital  to-day  of  the  North- 
western comer  of  the  North  American 
continent,  a  much  more  vast  region  in  ex- 
tent under  the  Dominion  of  the  United 
States,  then  imbom,  and  which  now  has 
jurisdiction  over  all. 

It  is  not  said  that  the  commercial  and 
political  metropolis  of  Alaska  will  rival 
in  population  or  wealthi  the  great  metropo- 
lis of  New  York.  But  I  do  say  that  over 
two  and  a  half  centuries  of  pro,vress  pro- 
diTces  great  changes  in  towns  as  well  as 
in  human  affairs  generally,  and  that  Sitka 
now  is  more  important  than  the  "Knick- 
erbocker" capital  was  in  the  age  of  Van 
Twiller,  or  even  the  redoubtable  Stuyves- 
ant. 

210 


III    i| 


WONDERLAND 


Indeed,  we  may  look  upon  Alaska  as  an 
object  lessofn  in  the  small  beginnings  of  the 
maternal  "Thirteen,"  in  the  middle  of  the 
sixteenth  century  and  with  possibilities 
no  leas  remaii-kable  in  undeveloped  natural 
wealth. 

Our  miniature  sub- Arctic  capital,  nearly 
6,000  miles  away  from  the  seat  of  na- 
tional Governmenit,  was  located  at  the 
heart  center  in  the  anatomy  of  a  region 
then  aspired  to  by  at  least  two  nations  of 
Euroi>e  besides  being  held  by  its  rightful 
possessor,  Russia, 

It  was  also  a  large  field  if  American 
enterprise  when  the  mighty  Republic  of 
the  West  was  in  its  s^waddling  clothes. 

The  original  settlement  of  \rhich  Sitka 
of  to-day  is  the  American  successor,  was 
located  by  the  sagacious  first  Governor  of 
the  Ruisisian-American  Fur  Company, 
Alexander  Baranof,  after  the  abandon- 
ment of  the  previous  ShelikofE  Trading 
Company,  which  (had  established  ita 
headquarters  at  the  town  of  St.  Paul  in 
the  northeastern  corner  of  Kadiak  Island. 

It  began  as  a  Fort  with  a  name  sugges- 
tive of  fuiturlty  and  fame  no  other  than 
Archangel  Gabriel.  This  was  erected  in 
1799  on  a  picturesaue  harbor  on  the  west- 
em  or  ocean  shore  of  an  island,  which  to- 
day pei-petuates  the  name  of  Baranof 
himself. 

This  island  is  one  of  the  score  of  ro- 
mantic spots  of  terra-firma  which  int  up 
on  picturesque  supexfice  of  Mother  Earth's 
bosom  above  the  indigo  waters  of  the 
encomiMuasing  deep,  and  constitutes  one 
of  the  grouT)  known  as  Alexander  Archi- 
pelago, after  that  Emperor  of  glorious 
memoiy. 

The  island  itself  is  100  miles  from  north 
to  south  along  Chatham  Strait,  on  the 
land  and  the  Pacific  on  the  oceanward 
Bide  and  20  miles  in  width.  This  would 
give  it  an  area  within  50  square  miles  of 
the  size  of  the  State  of  Delaware. 

The  American  and  English  vessels 
which  traded  in  that  quarter  of  the  globe 
conducted  a  profitable  business  in  food 
supplies,  for  the  post,  which  consumed  a 

211 


OVB  ALA8KAN 


great  length  of  time  in  reaching  them 
from  home'. 

la  1804  Arohanigel  Gabriel,  that  is  the 
Fort,  expanded  into  a  settlement  wihich 
received  the  appellation.  New  Archangel. 
The  all-powerful  Baranof  then  abandon- 
ed St.  Paul  on  Kadiak  Island  a«  the  chief 
offi'oe  of  the  company  ajid  capital  of  New 
Ruesia,  amd  located  both  at  the  new  town 
in  Southeaastfiii^  Alaska. 

It  ia  interesirjg  to  know  that  the  Ameri- 
can Fur  Trad^f  settlement,  Astoria,  at  the 
mouth  of  t'ue  Columbia  River  in  the  pres- 
ent Amf-ricaci  State  of  Oregon,  which  re- 
ceived its  name  from  John  Jacob  Astor, 
of  jNew  York,  its  sponsor  and  proprietor, 
was  in  intimate  commercial  relations  with 
the  Russian  colonial  capital.  An  agree- 
ment had  been  arranged  between  the  As- 
toria settlement  and  the  Russian  Gover- 
nor to  fuirnish  the  posts  of  New  Russia 
with  food  supplies.  With  a  similar  tnd 
in  view  the  Russians  acquired  a  tract  of 
land  on  thie  Oajlifornia  coast,  about  45 
miles  north  of  the  present  city  of  San 
Francisco,  named  Bodego  Bay.  They 
built  a  fort  called  Ross  and  there  raised 
cattle  and  cultivated  grain  and  vegetables 
to  supply  their  posts. 

It  might  be  added  that  this  tract  was 
eold  in  1841  to  6en>.  John  A.  Sutter,  who 
had  made  sevenaJ  cruises  in  Alaskan 
waters.  It  was  also  on  this  tract  thaft  gold 
was  discovered  by  General  Sutter  in  Sep- 
tember, 1847. 

In  1817  Baranof  resigned.  In  1825  the 
seat  of  oolonial  authority  was  restored  to 
St.  PaAil.  There  it  remained  until  1831, 
when  Baron  Wranigell  returned  it  to  New 
Archiangel,  which  since  has  remained  the 
residence  of  the  Russian  and  laiter,  under 
another  name,  of  the  United  States  Gov- 
ernors. 

Upon  the  transfer  of  auithority  from 
Russia  to  the  United  States  the  form'al 
ceremionies  took  pilaoe  at  New  Arch- 
angel, and  were  heralded  to  the  world 
through  the  trumpets  and  guns  of  the 
Archangel  Giabiiel— fort.  Thenceforward 
Ardiangel  Gabriel  became  but  a  memory 
and  Sitka  became  its  successor  in  name 
"12 


WONDERLAND 


and  authority  by  act  of  the  Congress  of 
the  United  States,  1884. 

The  sturdy  little  capital,  nestling  at  the 
base  of  bold  miountain  heighits,  occupies 
a  stretch  of  low  level  land  on  the  western 
shore  of  t)he  islajid  looking  out  upon 
Sitka  Sound.  Moomt  Edgeoumbe,  appar- 
ently not  many  ages  ago  a  partici- 
pant in  volcanic  activity,  rears  its  rugged 
crest  opposite  the  town  on  the  small  iBiand 
of  Kruzof,  2,800  feet.  United  States 
Ooast  Survey  meiaaiuirem)ent  above  the 
ocean  at  its  base. 

The  little  capital  itself  lies  on  parallel 
57.0S  North,  longitude  135.17  West. 

The  harbor  is  one  of  the  finest  on  this 
ocean  front  of  North  America.  With 
lofty  Edgecumbe  as  its  landmiark  it  is 
easy  of  approach  and  entrance  by  mar- 
iners. 

At  the  time  of  the  transfer  the  United 
States  came  into  possession  of  a  number 
of  log  structures  occupied  by  the  Rus- 
sians for  official  and  domiciliary  purposes. 

A  log  building  erected  in  the  great  Bar- 
anof's  day  of  early  Russian  occupancy, 
knowna  as  "Baranof's  Oastle,"  about 
which  were  associated  so  many  scenes  and 
incidents  of  the  wierd  years  of  isolation 
from  the  outer  world,  occupied  a  com- 
manding bluff  overlooking  the  quaint  old 
Russian  town. 

This  Russian  "castle,"  a  relic  of  im- 
perial days  was  destroyed  by  fire  March 
17, 1894.  It  had  just  been  repaired  by  the 
United  States  Government  at  an  expense 
of  $10,000  for  a  court  housi,  and  would 
have  been,  but  for  this  disaster,  an  in- 
teresting relic  for  yeans  to  come. 

The  other  early  buildings  which  have 
survived  the  tooth  of  time  and  tongue  ocf 
flame  are  still  utilized  and  are  interesting 
on  account  of  their  quaint  architecture. 

Besides  being  the  seat  of  district  gov- 
ernment, and  therefore  the  residence  of 
the  Governor  and  other  chief  officials,  it 
is  also  the  chief  port  of  entry  of  the  cus- 
toms district  of  Alasika,  with  a  number 
of  sub-ports  of  entry  tninsacting  official 
business  with  the  department  at  Wash- 
ington through  it. 

213 


(. 


OUR  ALASKAN 


I  I 


It  has  a  post  office,  as  have  all  the  white 
settlements  in  Alaska,  mth  extensions  to 
keep  in  touch  with  the  advance  of  civiliza- 
tion and  spread  of  development.  It  is 
also  a  money  order  office  amd  a  station  of 
the  United  States  Weather  Bureau  ser- 
vice. It  has  two  government  scfhools, 
with  over  200  natife  scholars.  It  has 
been  an  important  center  of  evangelical 
missionary  labor,  especially  under  the 
Presbyterian  denocnination  since  1878. 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  M'jhael,  of  the 
Holy  Orthodox  Catholic  Apostollic 
Orie^^ital  CJiurcli  and  the  Church  of  the 
Remir.iection  (the  Kalocihian)  are  inter- 
esting lolics  of  the  imperial  dominion. 

It  is  one  of  those  admirable  traits  of 
American  womaaihood  that  the  mothers, 
wives  and  daughters,  like  their  Conti- 
nental mothers  of  old,  in  tbeir  sphere  of 
influence  take  an  actiye  part  in  the  re- 
sponsibilities of  American  civilization 
and  institutions. 

During  the  days  of  American  military 
occupauicy  the  ladies  of  the  families  of 
the  officers  on  duty  at  Sitka  gave  their 
time  to  teaching'  in  extempoiriz<jd  day 
and  Slabbath  schools  for  the  dhildren  of 
the  natives  and  even  for  adults,  and  main- 
tained sewing  schoods  for  women  and 
girls. 

Not  insensible  to  this  interest,  the  brave 
and  gallant  commander,  I^ester  A. 
Beardsley,  then  in  oomanand  of  that  vener- 
able "Tub"  of  our  ancient  navy,  the 
Jamestown,  on  duty  in  Alaskan  waters, 
and  as  a  pleasant  realization  now  rear 
admiral  in  command  of  the  Pacific  fleet, 
fitted  up  an  unused  hospital  for  a  scliool. 

In  1880  Commander  Henry  Glaiss,  U.  S. 
N.,  another  splendid  type  of  the  American 
hero  of  the  deep  blue  sea,  aided  in  the 
establishment  of  a  boarding  department 
to  the  industrial  school,  which  the  United 
States  Grovemment  enlarged  in  1884.  He 
also  characterized  his  ingenuity  in  the 
ways  of  peace  by  introducing  in  1881  in 
the  Alaskan  capital  less  primitive  sani- 
tary arrangements.  He  also  became  a 
public  benefactor  by  applying  the  shrewd 
scheme  of  tying  a  tin  label  to  the  waists 
of  the  native  childiren  of  the  town  and  or- 
214 


II  f  I 


MW,aWiiW)BWiM.')»BI 


WONDERLAND 


dering  their  arrest  if  found  on  the  streets 
with<Mit  that  appendage  during  school 
hours.  The  "Glass  tin  system"  of  ap- 
prehending school  truants  might  be  adopt- 
ed with  success  in  more  extended  muni- 
cipal areas. 

In  the  same  year  the  first  Presbyterian 
Church  was  organized  with  44  natives 
and  5  white  communioants.  In  that  year 
their  boarding  school  for  ^rls  at  Port 
Wrangel  was  removed  to  Sitka. 

Since  then  the  little  capital  bas  been  the 
focus  of  political,  educational,  religious, 
industrial  and  business  activity  in  Alaska. 

The  chief  industry  is  s.'i'raon  fishing  and 
curing.  Gold  in  small  quantities  has  also 
been  found  not  far  distant.  Recent  re- 
ports give  accounts  of  very  importajit 
discoveries. 

It  is  also  in  eommunic^ion  with  the 
outer  work!  by  steamer  and  sail.  Lines 
of  fleet  steamers  ply  between  the  Sitka 
do<'ks  and  San  Francisco  and  other  points 
on  the  Pacific  coast  and  in  Alaskan 
waters. 

It  is  1,647  miles  from  San  Francisco  by 
the  inland  passage  for  steamers  and 
1,296  by  the  outside  ocean  route  used  by 
steamers  and  sailing  vessels  of  great  ton- 
nage. 

It  is  1,278  miles  from  Unalaska,  the 
strategic  port  in  Alaskan  waters. 

The  i)opulation  of  the  little  capital  un- 
der the  census  of  1890  was  1,190.  This 
number  has  largely  increased  during  the 
time  which  has  elapsed  since. 

The  mean  temperature  at  Sitka  over  a 
period  of  43  years  was  Januai-y  31.4  de- 
grees, August  55.9  degrees. 

The  celebrated  Senator  Charles  Sumner 
in  his  Alaskan  speech  before  the  Senate 
of  the  United  States,  in  1867,  made  "note 
on't"  that  the  climate  of  Sitka  was  milder 
than  many  European  capitals,  citing  Bei'- 
lin,  Vienna,  Copenhagen  and  Turin.  He 
might  have  added  that  its  mean  tempera- 
ture under  the  influence  of  the  Kiro  Siwo, 
or  black  stream  of  Japan,  was  about  the 
same  as  that  of  Washington,  the  Ameri- 
ean  capital.  But  those  were  days  when 
the  American  people  frequently  had  a 
215 


1 


p 


t'l 


OUR  ALASKAN 


I 


%  !'  ' 

1 

1 

J    ' 

ii 

m  '  i 

[ 

1 

ditcklner  for  want  of  a  Wetather  Bureau 
to  tell  them  before  Iiand  w(h)e(a)Hier  they 
were  "hot  or  cold,"  wheu  to  rummage 
around  for  their  "parapluies"  and  when  it 
wias  not  safe  to  forget  them. 

The  oflScial  mean  annual  rain  fall,  seien^ 
tifically  called  precipitation,  is  practically 
a  deluge.  It  footed  up  an  average  for  33 
years  of  84.06  perpend icula<r  to  one  hori- 
zontal square  inch.  This,  may  it  be  add- 
ed, is  just  sufficienit  if  coOJected  and  held 
in  soliition  to  require  bathinr  suits  or 
arks  for  every  man,  woman  r  ehild  in 
town,  exotic  or  indigeneous,  -  seven 

feet  in  hieigbt,  standing  on  tif  minus 

the  space  between  the  apex  of  tne  cranium 
and  the  nasal  and  mouth  vents  to  the 
windpipe,  highwater  mark. 

About  twelve  miles  from  Sitka  are  a 
cduster  of  sulphur  iodine  springs  whidli 
passess  superior  healing  properties.  They 
ha  ve  been  resorted  to  for  many  years  by 
invadJds.  It  has  been  proposed  to  have 
thie  Government  make  a  reservation  out 
of  the  region  so  that  the  waters  may  be 
held  for  the  use  of  the  people  as  are  the 
Hot  Springs  under  Government  super- 
vision in  the  Ozaxk  Mountains  of  Arkan- 
sas. 

Aboiut  ten  miles  ?rom  the  mouth  of  the 
Stickine  River,  on  the  northern  jhore  of 
Wrangel  Island,  in  liatitude  56Vi  north 
and  longitude  132.28  West,  is  the  busy  lit- 
tle settlement  of  the  same  name  with 
"fort"  prefixed,  v^hich  gives  a  peaceful 
community  a  warlike  fame. 

In  the  census  of  1890  it  bobbed  up  with 
316  inhabitanitsi.  The  census  of  1900  is 
likely  to  multiply  that  number  by  two  or 
three  figures  at  least.  It  is  a  mail  dis- 
tributing point  for  a  number  of  oflSees  in 
Alaska  and  British  Columbia.  It  has  a 
well  attended  Government  school  and  w'aa 
the  birthplace  and  cradle  of  the  eflScienit 
missioniary  work  of  the  American  Presby- 
terian Chlurch  in  Alaska,  beginning  with 
the  Tsimpsean  natives  of  this  region  in 
1877. 

In  1878  at  a  convention  of  natives  pre- 
sided over  by  Mrs.  A.  R.  McFarland,  of 

216 


mugngg. 


WONDERLAND 


the  mission  worli,  a  native  police  force, 
the  first  in  Alaska,  was  orjran,ize<L 

A  building;  \va«  also  erected  to  protect 
girls  sold  by  their  parents.  In  1878  Rev. 
John,  G.  Brady  here  performed  the  tirst 
christian  ceremony  of  marriage  among 
the  Alaskan  natives. 

Fort  Wrangel  is  also  the  starting  point 
of  miners  and  traders  by  the  Stickine 
route  to  the  gold  diggings  on  Briti^  soil, 
along  its  own  bed  and  to  the  headwato  s 
of  the  Yukon  for  Alaskan  and  Klondike 
fields. 

The  Stickine  River  is  also  associated 
with  the  earliest  American  enterprise  in 
this  region,  having  been  discovered  in 
1802  by  the  Captain  of  the  American 
trader  Atahualpa.  In  1833  the  Hudson 
Bay  (Company  was  detected  in  a  scheme 
to  take  possession  of  the  river.  Baron 
Wrangel,  then  Governor,  as  a  check,  es- 
tablished a  fort  called  Dyonesius  at  the 
river's  mouth,  which  was  afterward 
called  by  its  present  name. 

The  Hudsjon  Day  Company,  although 
taking  exception  to  tlnis  movement  were 
satisfied  to  leasee  the  fort. 

On  the  west  side  of  Admiralty  Island, 
on  Ohathnm  Strait,  leading  direct  to  Lynn 
OaaiaJ,  is  Killisnoo,  a  small  trading  station. 
It  has  a  Grovernment  native  school  and  a 
Presibyterian  and  Greoo-Russian  mission. 
It  has  also  in  its  vicinity  traces  of  coal  of 
commercial  viailuo  in  quality  and  quantity. 

Instead  of  that  water  highway  from 
Frederick  Sound  taking  Stephen's  Passnige 
on  the  right  we  reach  a  young  and  enter- 
prising city  in  pioneer  parlance,  but  rap- 
idly expanding  into  miunicipal  proportions. 

The  city  of  Juineau,  for  that  is  ita 
name,  was  not  known  to  compilers  of 
maps  a  few  yeairs  ago.  To-day  it  ia 
prominent  in  the  list  of  Alaskan  communi- 
ties and  perpetuates  the  name  of  Joseph 
Juneau,  a  pioneer  prospector. 

It  is  isituated  on  the  mainland  on  the 
sftiore  of  a  strait  which  connects  Steph- 
ens Passage  with  Ijynn  CaniaJl  and  ten 
miles  north  of  the  mouth  of  the  Takn 
River  in  latitude  58.19  north  and  longi- 
tude 134.28  west. 

It  Is  the  starting  point  of    the     Taku 
217 


i:ii  '^i 


i>> 


/'. 


<) 


.  t 


OUR  ALASKAN 

River  route  to  the  Alaskan  and  Klon- 
dike-Yukon go\&  fields,  the  details  of 
which  wiUl  be  reiiched  in  the  orderly  pro- 
gression of  our  emitertaining'  narraitiooi. 
It  has  a  money  order  po^t  office,  two 
Governm  .'lit  schools  and  is  a  sub-port  of 
emtry. 

The  dty  of  Juneau  is  one  of  the  most 
"up  to  date"  of  our  pioneer  Alaskan 
cities. 

In  1895  it  made  decided  strides.  Many 
fine  buildimigs  were  erected,  wharves  ex- 
tended, hotels  built  and  munidpal'  coi>- 
veniences  of  water  works  and  electric 
lights  introduced.  In  1890  it  had  1,253 
inhiabitants,  being  the  largest  town  in  the 
Wiiwle  reg'ion.  It  has  also  kept  pace  with 
the  rapid  increase  which  is  going  on  in 
the  population  of  Alaska. 

It  has  also  been  honered  by  several  ter- 
ritorial conventiciffl,  notably  one  in  1881 
to  secure  a  civiH  government  for  the  dis- 
trict and  in  1889,  which  eent  a  delegate 
to  Washington  to  secure  from  Congrese 
additional  legislation.  Ic  has  a  Presby- 
terian and  Ronian  Catholic  mission. 

In  every  sense  Juneau  seems  destined 
to  keep  pace  with  the  inevitable  devel'op- 
ment  which  awaits  Alaska  in  the  near 
future. 

The  well  grown  vi'3age  of  Douglas  on 
the  island  of  that  name,  opposite  and 
a  few  miles  below  Juneau,  had  a  popula- 
tion of  402  souls  when  heard  from  offi- 
cially in  1890.  It  is  an  international  post 
office  where  mails  brought  in  on  the 
decks  of  steamers  from  the  ocean  or  on 
the  backs  of  men  and  dogs  or  sleds  from 
the  inland  are  distributed  for  their  for- 
eigtni  and  domestic  destinations. 

It  has  a  G-ovemnitnt  schoo!  and  a 
Quaker  mission.  The  main  importance 
of  the  place  is  the  celebrated  Treadwell 
gold  mine  located  «t  this  point.  The 
quartz  mill  in  use  is  said  to  be  the  largest 
in  the  world.  The  company  are  keeping 
pace  with  modem  town*  improvements  as 
their  enterprise  extendi. 

Hoonah,  on  the  icy  i^.  trait  coast  of 
Chichagof  Island,  is  a  p'tece  of  trade  with 
the  Hoonyah  natives.  In  1878  a  Presby- 
terian missionary  visitation  was  made 
218 


\ 


WONDERLAAD 


ind  Klon- 
detailB  of 

rderiy  pro- 
narratioii. 

oflBce,  two 
ub-port  of 

f  the  most 
'    Alaskan 

les.  Many- 
fa  a  rves  ex- 
iclpal'  con- 
nd  e^'ectric 
had  1,253 
own  in  the 
;  pace  with 
oing  on  in 

several  ter- 
ne  in  1881 
'or  the  dis- 

a  delegate 
a  Congrrp«e 

a  Presby- 
ission. 
Qs  destined 
>le  devd'op- 
dj  the  near 

Douglas  on 
f>oslte  and 
id  a  popirla- 
i  from  offi- 
ational  post 
ti  on  the 
wean  or  on 

sleds  from 
p  their  foT- 
s. 
oo!     and   a 

importance 
1  Treadwell 
Krint.  The 
•  the  largest 
are  keeping 
'vementa  as 

t  coast  of 
'  trade  with 
8  a  Presby- 
wae    made 


among  them  by  F-ev.  John  G.  Brady.  It 
became  la  permanent  establishment  as 
Boyd  in  1881.  There  i«  also  a  Govepn- 
ment  school'  of  150  scholars. 

In  the  vicinity  are  exceUent  springs  of 
healing  waters.  Tiieii  inaccessibility 
aJome  has  been  the  drawfback  to  their  en- 
joyment by  invalicie.  With  the  increase 
of  facilities  for  travel  the  hot  springe  of 
Hoonah  are  likely  to  be  heard  fron"..  An- 
other small  station,  Haines,  situaiid  on 
the  west  shore  of  Ohiikoot  In'et,  a  con- 
tinuation of  Lynn  Oflnal,  on  the  right, 
has  a  Government  school  and  a  Presby- 
terian miasion  among  the  Ohiikoot  na- 
tives. A  Ghdlkoot  village  is  on  the  same 
shore  ten  miles  above  to  the  I^ft. 

Shkagway,  or  Skaguay  for  short,  as  its 
orthography  is  fast  being  Ameri- 
canized, at  the  confluence  of  the 
Dyea  Inlet,  the  continuance  of  Ohii- 
koot Inlet  and  Shkagway  River,  and 
Dyea,  further  up  on  the  Dyea  Inlet,  at 
the  mouf^i  of  Dyea  River,  less  than  ten 
miles  distant,  are  situated  at  the  starting 
points  of  the  traders  and  miners  for  the 
Alaskan  and  Klondike-Yukon  gold  fields 
by  way  of  the  two  most  used  portage 
routes  from  tidewater  to  the  head  tribu- 
t»'rit     of  the  Yukon. 

The  route  by  Dyea  leads  into  the  ChU- 
Jcoot  and  that  by  Skaguay  into  the  White 
Passes,  both  coming  together  ovei-  the 
coast  range  in  TagLsh  Lake  on  the  other 
side  about  fifty  mi'.es  from  either  startio.,; 
point. 

Leaving  Ohiikoot  Inlet  on  the  right  lUid 
passing  up  Chilkat  Inlet  on  the  left,  we 
reach  Katkwaltu  on  the  right  and  Kluk- 
waar  five  miles  above  at  the  mouth  of 
Ohnlkat  River. 

These  are  the  starting  points  to  the 
Chilkat  Pass,  Lake  Arkell  and  Tahk- 
heeoa  RiY£r  route,  which  joins  the  Ohii- 
koot and  White  Pass  routes  beyond  the 
coast  range  at  Fifty-Mile  River  on  the 
wny  to  the  Lewis-Yukon  Rivers. 

The  Lynn  Oanal  leads  up  to  aW  these 
point?  above  Juneau. 

The  Presbyterians  established  in  1881 
a  mission  among  the  Hydah  native  vil- 
lages on  Prince  Wales  Island  and  an- 
other in  1882  at  Howean  (Jackson)  on  tie 
219 


1., 


•ft 

I 


h  4- 1 


fi  ) 


OUR  ALASKAN  WONDERLAND 

south  e»d  of  the  same  island.  This  native 
settlement  is  near  the  initial  comer  miairk 
of  the  internationial  "fighting"  54.40 
boundary  paraKel,  asnid  the  first  American 
territory  reached  aifter  leaving  the  strait 
of  Fuca  in  the  American  extreme  north- 
western State  of  Washington, 

The  scenery  Is  mountainous  ailong  this 
entire  coast  and  remarfcab'.y  grand. 

On  the  left  of  the  entrance  to  Lynin 
Oanal'  is  Icy  Strait,  leading  to  the  womder- 
ful  Glacier  Bay,  less  than  fifty  miles 
acrosr  couotry  from  Lynn  Cana^li,  directly 
over  Snow  Dome  and  the  famous  Muir 
Glacier  which  I  have  described. 

Between  Glacier  Bay  and  the  ocean 
coasit,  not  over  forty  miles  distamt,  are 
the  four  Fairweather  Range  peaks.  Fair- 
weather,  Lituyia.  Orillon  and  La  Perouse 
from  10,740  to  15,900  feet  in  height,  ris- 
ing majestically  in  sight  from  the  ocean 
on  the  west  and  Glaicier  Bay  on  the  east. 

The  most  northern  isett'empnt  of  South- 
eastern) AJasika  is  Yakutat,  on  the  south- 
em  shore  of  the  bay  of  that  name  in  the 
very  heart  of  the  marvels  of  glacial  ac- 
tion. In  1890  the  settlement  hiad  308  in- 
habitants.  It  has  a  Swedish  Evangelical 
mission  and  a  Government  school. 

The  station  was  first  establishfMi  by  the 
Bussiane  in  1795,  and  w^as  one  of  the  ear- 
liest occupations  of  the  main  land. 

Across  the  bay  is  the  celebrated  Malas- 
pina  ice  sea,  with  Mount  St.  Elias,  the 
birthplace  of  glaciers  and  one  of  the  eter- 
nai  corner  points  of  international  boun- 
dary, about  iscTonty  n'les  due  noiiih.  In 
the  backgrovind  of  Yakutat  on  the  same 
side  of  th'*  bay  rises  the  towering  St. 
Eilias  range  of  mountain®  and  the  vast 
sweep  of  nioraimniV  dejiosit-liuriod  forcRts 
and  other  piacial  wonders  of  Alaska. 

The  region  is  now  the  resort  of  summer 
tourists  and  will  be  more  so  as  com- 
munication is  increased   and  cheapened. 

An  American  Alpine  chalet  accessible 
from  the  steamers  and  equally  so  to  the 
wonders  of  Malaspina  and  St.  Elias,  for 
the  accommodation  of  daring  mountain 
dirobors  and  wonder-seeking  summer 
tourists  a  few  years  ago  an  idle  dream  a 
few  yetairs  hence  will  be  a  remunerative 
realization. 

220 


I 


I 


VD 


"his  native 
rner  miark 
g"  54.40 
Ameiican 
the  strait 
me  north- 

EUlong  tlids 
md. 

to  Lynn 
e  WKWider- 
'ty  milea 
I'l,  directly 
loiis  Muir 

the  ocean 
stamt,  are 
aks,  Fair- 
a  PeroTise 
eig'ht,  ris- 
the  ocean 
k  the  oast, 
of  South- 
the  soufh- 
me  in.  the 
plaK'ial  ae- 
id  308  inh 
V  angelical 
)ol. 

ip-d  by  the 
*t  the  ear- 
ind. 

ed  M'aJas- 
Elias,  the 
f  the  eter- 
nal boim- 
lorth.     In 

the  same 
'ering   St. 

the  vast 
fd  foreRta 
(iska. 
<f  summer 

as  com- 
heapened. 
accessible 

so  to  the 
Elias,  for 
mountain 
summer 
?  diream  a 
lunerative 


!i;^ 


I 


i; 


1 

'M 


Ui 


Ml 


'■'t:  ''i\ 


:;mR    I 


'I  I 


It' 


I. 


fUgmmimM 


OurtlasbWonderland 


LETTER  NUMBER  XX. 


Between  the  Orient  and  Occident 
of  United   8tates    Domin- 
ion tlieSnn  >jeyerSets. 


A 


Hid-Ocean   Strategic    Key   to 
Three  Seas. 


St.  Paul  the   Early  Rossian   Outlook   on 
Pacific  and  Polar  Waters. 


other   Alankait   Towna  With   Large   In- 
teresta. 


The  vast  range  of  langiitude  c,  jred  by 
United  States  dominion  may  be  judged 
by  the  astronomical  fact  that  when  the 
sun  is  setting  at  Attu,  our  ■westernmost 
island  in  the  Aleutian!  chain  in  the  Pa- 
cific, it  is  rising  over  Deer,  our  eastern- 
most island  off  the  Atlantic  shores  of  the 
State  of  Maine. 

It  can  be  said  that  the  sim  never  sets, 
but  always  smiles  upon  the  soil  of  the 
United  States. 

If  my  highly  resi>ected  readers  have 
hitherto  thought  that  the  many  localities 
noted  on  the  recent  maps  of  Alaska  are 
simply  for  embellishmenit  and  stand  for 
nothing  beyond  the  merest  specks  of 
hitman  habitation  in  a  mighty  wilderness, 
they  might  prepare  themselves  to  revise 
that  impresaion. 

I  have  spoken  of  the  possible  common- 
223 


I 


m 


OUR  ALASKAN 


k{ 


w^n 


IP 


i:    * 


wealth  of  Southeaatern  Alaiska  and  the 
guainit  capital,  Sitka.  We  mil  now  pro- 
ceed on  our  ocean  voyage,  on  paper,  1,278 
miles  due  southwest. 

At  the  end  of  our  journey  we  find  onr- 
^Ives  at  the  Aleutian  metropolis,  Un- 
alaska,  locally  known  as  Iliiuliuk. 

We  have  reached  the  capital  of  the  mid- 
ocean  member  of  the  group  of  probable 
Alaskan  Commonwealths  of  the  next  de- 
cade or  two. 

This  interesting  locality  lies  in  the 
midst  of  that  succession  of  insular  step- 
ping-stones under  United  States  domin- 
ion, known  aa  the  Aleuitian  Archipelago, 
which  extends  across  the  head  of  the  Pa- 
cific Oceam  almost  to  within  sight  of  the 
Kamtchiatkan  Coast  of  Rnssia. 

The  Aleutian  outstretched  geographical 
division  is  not  only  one  of  the  most  won- 
derful, but  one  of  the  most  promising  sec- 
tioujs  of  Alaska.  Its  woiuleis  are  the 
sub-marine  range  of  mountains,  lofty  vol- 
canoes and  lakes  of  sulphur,  which  I  have 
described.  Its  enormous  wealth  is  in  the 
valuable  fur  seal,  salmon  and  ccher  fisher- 
ies, gold,  forests,  coal,  mineral's  and 
metals,  wWch  I  shall  ;3oon  recount. 

There  are  many  settlements  on  the  dif- 
ferent islands.  The  inhabitants,  the 
Aleuts,  are  an  aquatic  race,  their  indus- 
tries being  entirely  in  pm'suit  of  tbe  sea 
otter  and  other  far-bearing  animals  of  the 
deep. 

One  of  the  largest  of  these  islands  is 
Unalaska.  Its  chief  town,  also  called 
Unalaska  or  Iliuliuk.  is  situatod  on  the 
northeastern  or  Bering  Sea  side  of  Iliu- 
liuk harbor.  It  lies  at  tlie  northern  out- 
let of  Akutan  Pass,  which,  with  Unalga 
Poiss,  unites  the  waters  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean  on  the  south  and  Bering  Sea  on  the 
north.  On  the  east  side  of  tliese  passes 
is  Akutan  Island. 

This  pass  is  one  of  the  water  routes 
through  the  Aleutian  chain  from  the  Pa- 
cific Ocean  to  the  Pribilof  Fur  Seal  Isl- 
ands, which  lie  within  the  100  faithiom 
curve  to  the  northwest. 

The  seeneiT  is  magnificent.     The  Ma- 

kushin  Mountain  lifting  its  summit  5,500 

feet  out  of  the  blue  ocean  in  si^ht  on  one 

side  and  Akutan,  3.900  feet  high  on  the 

224 


WONDERLAND 


md  the 
ow  pro- 
r,  1,278 

nd  our- 
Un- 


in   the 


other.    They  stand  like  two  mighty  seatl- 
nela  at  the  portals  to  the  Bering  Sea. 

The  safest  passes,  hiowever,  through  the 
islands  are  Unimak,  80  miles  to  the  north- 
east and  Amukhta,  280  miles  to  the  southr 
west. 

The  natural  stronlghold  com.miaiidinig 
these  passes  is,  therefore,  Unalaska,  the 
strategic  position  of  our  vast  aub-Arctic 
possessions.  It  not  only  controls  the 
ocean  gateways  to  the  Bering  Sea,  which 
is  piractically  am  American  and  Russian 
lake,  but  it  holds  the  same  relation  to 
the  northern  waters  and  shores  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean. 

Its  admirable  geographical  position, 
BtrategicaMy  considered,  is  better  appre- 
ciated when  we  look  at  its  central  loca- 
tion in  miles  with  reference  to  the  widely 
extended  areas  of  our  North  Pacific  pos- 
sessions. 

It  is  1,278  statute  miles  southwest  of 
Sitka,  the  chief  point  in  Southeastera 
Alaska.  It  is  1,346  miles  south  of  Point 
Barrow,  the  chlief  point  in  the  Arctic  di- 
vision, and  900  miles  east  of  Attu,  the 
extreme  western  island  of  the  Aleutian 
chain. 

It  is  2,369  miles  from  San  Francisco 
and  lesis  from  Portland  and  Seattle  on 
our  Pacific  Coast. 

With  respect  to  Alaskan  points,  it  is 
770  miles  southeast  of  St.  Michael,  hold- 
ing the  key  to  the  commerce  of  the  Yukon; 
484  miles  sonthweist  of  Mt.  Cnrmal,  on 
Bristol  Bay  <m  the  north  side  of  the  pen- 
insula of  Alaska;  461  miles  southwest  of 
Quinhehaha  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kuskok- 
wim  River; 816  miles  south  of  Oape  Prince 
of  Wales  on  Bering  S^r■ait;  800  miles 
south  of  Port  CJlarence,  the  United  States 
Reindeer  Station;  600  miles  southwest  of 
the  celebrated  salmon  canning  is'ands  of 
Kadiak  and  Afogtmak,  and  east  of  south, 
of  the  Pribilof  Fur  Seal  IsLands  St. 
George  222,  and  St.  Paul  271  miles. 

This  port  was  prominent  in  Russian 
days.  In  1788  the  Spanish  vessels  during 
their  recounnoissance  of  the  Northern  Pa- 
cific waters  visited  Unalaska.  The  re- 
sult of  that  OTuise  was  some  friction  with 
the  Russians  on  account  of  alleged  ag- 
gressions of  the  latter  Power. 
225 


f^ 


I 


OOB  ALASKAN 


The  present  town  with  about  a  thou- 
Banid  inhabitants  has  a  Custom  House 
post  office,  Greco-Russian  Church  Mish 
sion,  Governimenit  school,  trading  houses, 
fine  wharves  amd  an  excellent  harbor. 

To  the  eastward  on  Unga  Island,  in 
the  Shamu^  group,  sonith  of  the  penin- 
sula, there  is  a  yiUage  of  200  inhalbitante. 
At  Sand  Podnt,  on  that  IsHand,  the  Metho>- 
dists  baye  establiehed  a  misisi(Kn  and  the 
Government  a  scho^ol.  At  BeIko(fski,  on 
the  bay  of  that  name  on  the  southwestern 
end  of  the  Atasban  Peninsula,  is  a  vil- 
Jiage  of  300  inhabitants  and  a  Greco- 
Ruasian  church  mission.  At  Protasaof 
is  a  village  of  100  souls.  There  are 
warm  sulphur  springs  and  ponds  nearby. 

On  Unimiak,  of  the  Pox  Islands,  the 
seat  of  two  of  the  loftiest  voloanoea  in 
Alaska  Shishaldin  and  Pognimnoi  i»  a 
settlement  of  127  inhabitants  at  Nikoleky 
on  the  south  side. 

On  the  east  end  of  Atfcha,  one  of  the 
AmdriQanof  Islands,  is  Naaan,  a  thrifty  set- 
tlement of  230  natives. 

On  the  Island  of  St.  Paul,  of  the 
Pribilof  group,  is  a  settlement  of  298.  This 
is  in  the  midist  of  the  immensely  valuable 
fur  seal  rookeries. 

Still  farther  to  the  eastward'  lie  the 
Island  of  Kadiak  and  Peninsulas  of  Kenai 
and  Alaska,  which  constStute  the  KadiaJc 
geographioaJ  division.  This  is  one  of  the 
sections  referred  to,  which  possess  ex- 
traordinary "Alaskan  possibilitiPs." 

St.  Paul,  on  the  northeastern  end  of 
Kadiak  Island,  was  founded  by  the  Rub- 
sian  government  in  1781  aa  a  point  of  ob- 
Bervajtion  upon  the  vessels  of  other  na- 
tions reeOTting  to  the  North  Pacific  seas 
on  pretext  of  exploration  anl  trade.  It 
wais  made  the  capital  of  New  Ruissia  and 
was  the  headquarters  of  the  Sheldkoff 
Trading  Company  organized  in  1790.  The 
RusssiaiD-Ameriean  Company  chartered  in 
1799  with  the  famous  Alexander  Baranof 
as  chief  director  and  ex-officio  Governor, 
also  had  its  chief  office  there  until  Gover- 
nor Baranof  built  Port  Archangel  Gabriel 
on  Baranof  IsJand  in  Southeastern  Alaska 
which  five  years  later  he  made  Ms  capital. 

The  seat  of  government  upon  the  retire- 

226 


WONDERLAND 


ment  of  Baranof  returned  to  St.  Paul,  but 
after  twenty-one  yeairs  was  agadn  removed 
to  New  Arohamigeili.  It  waa  a^ain  taken 
to  New  Archangel  in  1831  and  has  re- 
mained there  since.  Tlie  population  of 
St.  Paul  in  1890  was  1,100. 

The  trade  of  St.  Paul  is  not  alone  con- 
fined to  the  enormous  output  of  canned 
salmon,  but  is  also  largely  in  furs.  The 
central  location  of  the  town  with  respect 
to  botlh  these  va'-uable  industries  gives  it 
great  importance  in  that  region. 

The  Island  of  Kadiak,  of  which  St. 
Paul  is  the  metropolis,  is  90x45  miles,  or 
4,050  square  miles'  in  area  or  neaTly  as 
large  as  the  State  of  Connecticut.  It  lies 
east  of  the  main  land  end  of  the  Alaskan 
PeiiinsTila,  40  miles  distant.  Its  sh.ores 
lie  along  the  famous  100  fathom  curve, 
which  begins  near  the  Alaskan  Gulf  Ooast 
at  St.  Elias  Range  and  sweeps  westward 
to  the  Fox  Island  in  the  Aleutian  diain. 
Midway  ini  the  succeesioni  of  imanense- 
ly  vaMable  fishing  grounds  are  the  Port- 
lock  Bank  on  the  north  and  Albatross 
Bank  immediately  east  of  the  island,  with 
Shumag'in,  Sonnak  and  Davidson;  Banks 
in  succession  to  the  westward.  The«e 
banks  rival  the  celebrated  fishing  banks 
of  New  Foundland  in  productive  value. 

On  the  inland  are  some  of  the  most  ex- 
tensive salmon  canneries  in  the  world. 

Karluk,  on  Shelikoff  Strait,  on  the 
western  shore  of  the  island  which  sepa- 
rates it  from  the  Peninsula  of  Alaska, 
was  established  in  1887.  The  pack  in 
the  first  year  was  13,000  cases  of  salmon. 
In  1888  101,000  cases  of  forty-eight 
pounds  each  were  turned  out,  represent- 
ing a  catch  of  1,200,000  blue  backs  or 
red  salmon.  In  1889  more  than  thirty 
new  canneries  were  established  at  this 
one  point,  turning  out  that  year  350,000 
cases  of  red  salmon,  representing  4,000,- 
000  fish.  This  wi'H  convey  some  idea  of 
busy  Alaskan  towms,  even  if  their  populia- 
tions  are  small. 

Karluk  at  present  has  the  largest  oau'- 
nery  in  the  world,  and  yet  the  population 
is  but  1,123. 

At  Kadiak  another  fishing  station  on 
the  island  there  is  a  population  of  495 
Bouls,  also  largely  engaged  in  salmom 
227 


•  li 


OUR  ALASKAN 


packing.  It  also  bas  a  thriving  Govemi- 
ment  sclhool. 

Alitnk,  in  tbe  south  of  the  ialand,  on 
the  bay  of  the  same  oame,  has  a  popula- 
tion of  420  also  engaged  in  fisbiug  and 
canuikiig. 

There  are  other  fislhing  villages  on  the 
ie<!and. 

Aeroas  Afognak  Bay  and  North  Straiit, 
which  separate  Afognak,  an  island  of 
considerable  size,  from  Kadiak  on  the 
north,  about  25  miles  distant,  is  situated 
the  village  of  Afognak,  with  a  population 
of  409  souls,  mostly  engaged  in  salmon 
catdhjng  and  canning.  The  island  is  633 
miles  w«flt  of  S'lka  and  has  a  Govem- 
memt  sdhool. 

Almost  due  west  of  Sitka,  650  miles 
across  the  hej'd  c.f  the  Gnlf  of  Alaska,  on 
Hinchinbrook  Island,  stands  Nucheck.  At 
one  time  it  was  a  trading  station  of  lead- 
ing importance,  but  in  the  shiftings  of 
commercial!  conditions  lost  much  of  its 
prominence. 

The  island  upon  which  it  is  situated  is 
at  the  entrance  to  Prince  Williams  Sound 
and  50  nxilea  from  the  mouth  of  the  CJop- 
per  River. 

As  the  Copper  River  region  is  again  at- 
tracting the  attention  of  scientific  and 
practical  prospectors  for  auriferous 
wealth,  it  is  likely  thiat  Nucheck  will  be 
Itoard  from  again  in  the  future. 

The  Kenai  Peninaula,  which  geograph- 
ically belongs  to  the  Kadiak  division,  pro- 
jects into  the  Alaskan  Gulf  between 
Prince  William  Sound  and  Cook  Inlet  It 
is  one  of  the  localities  of  interest  in  the 
earlier  operations  in  Alaska,  being  just 
north  of  Kadiak  Island,  the  site  of  St. 
Pan!  the  first  Russian  settlement  in  the 
region. 

The  chief  trading  po«t  is  Kenia!,  oa  the 
Cook  Inlet,  or  western  slhore.  It  was  the 
site  of  the  first  settlement  in  that  region, 
is  the  i-esidence  of  a  Russian  missionary 
and  has  a  Greek  Church*  It  was  forti- 
fied, redoubt  St.  Nicholas  being  its  re- 
liance against  any  warlike  demonstra- 
tion. At  the  time  of  the  transfer  to  the 
United  States  tihe  stockade  and  bastioas 
228 


WONDERLAND 


with  thi'ir  anniunent  of  1%  pound  fal- 
oonetB  were  atill  in  place. 

Near  Anchor  Point  on  the  north  and 
Port  Graham  on  the  south,  entrance  to 
Kudhekneck  Bay  in  the  southwestern 
corner  of  the  peninsula  an  abundance  of 
oo«il  cpope  out  of  the  cliffs.  A  Ruasian 
company  with  interested  San  Francisco 
parties  exploited  the  veins  to  furnish 
steamers  with  a  conveniemt  supply,  but 
tile  project  was  abandoned  largely  on  ac- 
count of  the  limited  demand  at  that  time. 

On  the  opjwsite  shore  of  C*x)k  Inlet  are 
Toyorok  and  West  Foreland  resjx^ctively, 
on  Traiding  and  Redoubt  Bays.  The 
Sushitna  River  finds  its  outlet  in  Ihe  in- 
let and  therefore  the  inducements  of  trade 
with  the  natives. 

The  resident  Orccles  have  made  head- 
way in  raising  turnips  and  potatoes,  keep- 
ing cattle  and  making  butter.  They  are 
also  engaged  in  catching  and  saHing  sal- 
men  for  the  San  Francisco  market.  The 
value  of  the  fur  trade  lias  somewliat 
diminisihed. 

Koiiiai  is  a  great  place  of  resort  for  the 
natives  on  the  shores  of  the  inlet,  wh,o 
congregate  there  once  a  year  to  i-eeeive 
the  go^  offices  and  benediction  of  the 
Russian  prieart". 

In  Russian  da.\  s  gold  was  reported  near 
the  station,  but  a  cos+ly  experiment  elicit- 
ed insufficient  returns.  The  American 
prospectors  brve  also  been  unsuccessful. 

The  staition  at  one  time  enjoyed  a  con- 
siderable ti'ade  in  bricks,  which  were 
miade  there  and  sold  to  the  other  posts 
for  consitrm-ting  the  heating  oven  so  com- 
mon in  Russian  household  appliances. 

About  30  miles  below  Kenni  is  a  settle- 
men,  Ninilohik,  of  the  descendants  of  tbe 
former  "colonifl  citi25ens"  an  honor  by 
way  of  epithet  conferred  uix>n  the  super- 
anmiiaited  employes  rndcr  the  Russian 
regime. 

They  have  established  a  large  trade  in 
turnips  and  potatoes  and  are  equally  suc- 
cessful in  raising  pigs  and  poultry,  which, 
however,  are  unpalatable  on  account  of 
foeding  upon  the  refuse  of  the  sea. 

The  Kuskokwim  geographical  division 
229 


m 


',0 


« 


OUR  ALASKAN  WONDERLAND 

b!&»  a  few  native  settlements  wMch  are 
visited  each  season  by  th/e  traders.  Tha 
region  is  comparatively  low  and  consists 
of  extensive  Filpins.  The  interior  has  xuyt 
been  thoroti^hly  explored.  The  naturai 
resources  are  therefore  iu>t  known.  The 
river  abounds  in  salmon. 

At  Quinnehlaha  a\  the  head  of  Knslok- 
wim,  at  Betliel,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river 
and  at  A[t.  Carmel,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Nusihag-ak  River  in  Bristol  Bay,  the  Mor- 
avianis  have  established  missionary  sta- 
tions among  the  natives.  At  Bethel  and 
Carmel  there  are  also  Government 
schools.  Higher  up  the  Kuskokwim  th 
Ruseian  and  Roman  Churches  have  mis- 
sions among  tJhe  natives.  In  1818  the 
Russian  Korsakoff  made  an  overland 
journey  from  Cook  Inlet  to  the  moaitli  of 
the  Kuiskokwim.  The  same  year  he  built 
a  fort  (Alexander)  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Nushagak,  on  Bristol  Bay,  and  two  years 
after  more  fully  explored  the  Kuskok- 
wim. 


230 


m 

■'as 


mi 


\ 


)\ 


t  < 


<ifl! 


ST  JiCm  POINT  BURROW 


i   I 


i\ 


na 


ff  MI 


i:i»» 


■■'     Si 


Alaskan  ^fiiiiiiff  lle^'ions,  I'pper  Yukon. 


LETTER  NUMBER  XXI. 


M 


f^"- 


il<on. 


The  Mart  ot  Ifnkon  River  Trade 
Metropolis    of     Icy 
Polar  Regions. 


anu 


Our  Land  of  Noonday  Night    and 

Midnight  8an  and  Birthplace 

of  Blizzards. 


'Old    Gla  ry"  Waves  a   Clre«tliiii<    to    the 
North  Pole. 


I  have  spoken  of  our  archipelago  and 
mid-ocean  towns  let  us  look  into  the  mys- 
terious interior  along  the  mighty  Yukou, 
a  Wonder  of  Rivers,  and  the  frozen  coast 
facing  on  the  north  i>olar  hub  of  our  re- 
volvuig  globe. 

The  Yukon  geographical  section  is  the 
most  exteuksive  in  area  and  important  in 
present  and  prosi>ective  development  in 
Alaska.  It  possesses  in  itself  among  the 
greatest  of  "Alaskan  Possibilities"  not- 
with';t<iuding  the  rigors  of  its  climate.  A 
description  of  the  Yukon  will  be  found 
Hinder  the  head  "A  Wonder  of  Rivers." 

The  chief  mart  of  commerce  aiid  trade 
on  the  river  is  St.  Michael  on  the  island 
of  that  name  near  the  south  shore  of  Nor- 
ton Sound.  It  is  also  prominent  in  the 
commercial  operatioiniswith  the  straits  and 
polar  settlemnts  of  the  Arctic  division, 

233 


^^1 


l 


ii 


01712  ALASKAN 


("■<i. 


being  midway  between  Unalaska  and 
Point  Barrow. 

The  great  companies  of  ocean  and  river 
transportation  and  trading  establishmenta 
of  San  Francisco.  Portland,  Seattle  and 
other  points  on  the  Amoricani  Coast  have 
their  branches  at  this  point  with  fine 
warehouses. 

In  the  prosecution  of  trade  in  this  sub- 
Arctic  region  each  station  superintendent 
of  the  interior  descends  the  great  river  with 
the  earliest  movement  of  the  ice  in  the 
latter  part  of  June.  The  sui>eriutendent 
at  St.  Michael  fm-nishes  him  with  his 
allotment  of  goods  suitable  to  the  trade 
white  or  native  in  the  region  w  hich  he  cov- 
ers. These  hecarries  back  with  nim  in  sail- 
boats or  biadarkas  (mooseskin  boaus)  to  his 
post  and  are  supposed  to  cover  a  year's 
supply.  Frequently  several  trips  ai-e  made 
during  the  open  season  of  about  four 
monthfi. 

The  enormously  enlarged  demands  of 
the  rapidly  increasing  population  of  gold 
miners  and  prospectors  along  the  coast 
has  changed  this  tedious  primitive  meth- 
od of  distributing  supplies  along  the 
Yukon  River  srtations.  The  fleets  of 
steamboats  constructed  for  Yukon  naviga- 
tion are  now  utilized. 

The  vessels  with  supplies  from  the 
home  houses  owing  to  floating  ice  in  Nor- 
ton Sound  and  in  the  straits  between  St. 
Lawrence  Island  off  the  mouth  of  the 
Yukon  delta,  are  una.ble  to  reach  St. 
Michael  befoa^  the  end  of  June. 

There  is  also  a  shorter  route  which 
some  day  may  have  its  line  of  trolley  or 
steam  railway  from  St.  Michael  direct 
to  the  Yukon  not  only  saving  the  circuit- 
ous route  but  the  discomforts  of  73 
miles  on  Norton  Sound  in  a  river  steamer 
before  entering  the  mouth  of  the  river. 

By  this  cross-cut  route  a  boat  from  St. 
Michael  along  the  south  shore  of  the  inner 
Norton  Soun-i'  would  convey  passengers 
or  merchandize  55  miles  to  the  mouth  of 
Unalaklik River  to  thetown  of  that  name, 
where  a  Swedish  Evangelical  Mission  has 
been  e.stablished.  Thence  ascending  the 
river  14  miles  to  Ulukuk  village;  thence 
by  trail  32  miles  to  Autokakat  River; 
thence  down  that  stream  thxee  miles  to 
234 


WOIiDERLAliiD 


and 


. 


the  Yukon,  makes  a  total  of  104  miles, 
which  is  392  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Yukon.  The  distance  from  St.  Jlichael 
to  the  same  point  by  Norton.  Sound  and 
River  is  465  miles. 

It  is  not  difficult  to  determine  what  may 
hapijen  there  when  trade  becoanes  per- 
manently etjiblishetl.  Lieut.  Allen, 
United  States  CaTalry,  durinja:  his  recoun- 
noissance  of  Akska,  made  the  overland 
journey  and  reports  it  "officially,"  feas- 
ible. 

The  Yukon  is  2,043  miles  long  througb 
the  Lewis  and  3.200  through  the  Telly 
head  tributaries  and  is  n.i,vl^:able  1,(500 
miles,  and  by  canoe  the  entire  distance. 

The  naTipable  waters  of  the  main 
streaim  and  its  tributaries  are  approxi- 
mated, not  extravagantly,  between  4,000 
and  5,000  miles  by  light  draft  steamers 
and  double  that  for  canoes,  which  are  the 
popular  conveyance  of  the  country. 

The  Lewis  River,  which  is  the  water 
and  transportation  outlet  of  the  chain  of 
lakes  at  the  inland  end  of  the  Chilkat, 
Chilkoot  and  White  Passes,  represents 
375  miles  of  canoe  navigation  and  the 
Pelly  550  miles.  The  entire  Yukon  sys- 
tem, fl's  I  have  said,  drains  600,000 
square  miles. 

The  emporium  of  the  Yukon  River 
trade,  St.  Mic'bael,  was  erected  as  a  fort 
of  that  n.imt>  in  1833  by  Tebeneff,  who 
bad  made  important  expeditions  on  Nor- 
ton Sound  a«  a  base  of  future  opera- 
tions and  trade. 

Th<?  town  occupies  one  of  a  small  group 
of  islands,  owing  to  the  uiifavorable  coast 
of  low  delta  deposits  and  shallow  waters, 
73  miles  north  of  the  principal  mouthi, 
that  bt'ing  the  only  safe  anchorage.  It 
is  the  harbor  of  transfer  of  pais«enger9 
and  fr<?ight  from  the  ocean  gO'^^•  to  the 
Yukoii  River  steamei's  and  smaller  craft. 

St.  Michael  controls  the  trade  of  the  en- 
tire Yukon  system  and  for  that  alone  is 
destined  with  development  to  be  a  city  of 
coasiderable  sir.e.  It  also  occupies  a  po- 
sition of  strategic  importance  as  regards 
Bering  Sea.  From  the  latter  point  of  ob- 
servation by  ocean  it  is  770  miles  north- 
east of  Unalaska;  250  miles  soutlieast  of 
Cape  Prince  of  Wales  in  the  Bering 
235 


y 


OUR  ALASKAN 


'  -  i , .  I 


^ii 


f*«R 


k 


Strait,  and  780  miles  by  way  of  Bering 
Strait  south  of  Point  Barrow. 

Its  commanding  position  as  regards  the 
river,  measured  in  miles,  according  to 
Raymond,  is  from  tlie  anchorage  off 
Redoubt  St.  Michael  to  Pikmatalik  27 
miles.  From  Pikmatalik  to  the  Aphoon 
or  northern  mouth  of  the  Yukon  46  miles. 
From  Re<loiibt  St.  Michael  to  P'"ort 
Yukon,  1,039  miles.  From  the  Aphoon 
mouth  of  the  Yukon  to  the  Crater  Lake 
source  throuffh  the  Lewis  Rivei*,  accord- 
ing to  Schwatka.  who  made  an  explora- 
tion of  the  entire  length  of  the  river,  is 
2,043.5  miles.  The  RussiaiU®  were  the  first 
explorers  of  the  delta  and  the  river. 

In  making  the  ascent  of  the  Yukon,  we 
reverse  the  details  of  the  descent  of  the 
stream  which  I  have  given  in  "A  Wonder 
of  Rivers."  At  the  entranice  of  the  Aph- 
oon mouth'  stands  the  native  village  of 
Kntlik. 

At  the  junction  of  the  delta  mouths  in 
the  sti-eam  inland  stands  Kuisilv<ak,  with 
a  Roman  Mission.  A  short  distance,  7 
miles,  is  Coatlik.  and  farther  above  is 
Andreanof,  with  a  Russian  Church  Mis- 
sion nearby. 

There  are  other  villages  along  the 
lower  river.  Anvik,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  of  that  name,  is  the  first  "tation  on 
the  river,  neaxly  200  miles  above  its 
mouth.  Here  the  Eskimos  apix'ar;  also 
geese  and  sedge  grass.  About  40  miles 
below  is  the  Holy  Cronss  Mission  of  the 
Protestant  F/T>iscopal  Church. 

Nnlialto,  467  miles  from  the  sea.  whicihi 
had  been  built  dniring  the  direetor^ip  of 
Kufpreanof ,  was  held  for  a  year  but  was 
abandoned  and  destroyed  by  the  natives. 
In  1S41  it  was  again  built  but  was  cap- 
tured and  bnmed  in  1S.51.  In  18."9  it  was 
retbnilt.  It  is  now*  a  Roman  Cathblic  sta- 
tion. At  this  point  the  river  turns  almost 
east  to  Nowikakat.  nearly  200  miles  far- 
ther, whidh.  wasi  first  located  in  1843. 
Nuklakayet,  the  next  trading  post,  is  201 
miles  above  Nulato  in  the  depths  of  the 
Yukon  regioHL  The  region  aibounds  in 
huckleberries  in  summer. 

After  passing  Tnklukyot,  Tanana  and 
the  Ix>wer  Ramparts  the  steamer  enters 
the  Thousand  Isles'  of  the  Yukon,  whidh 
236 


""^^"""^^ 


Hi 


WONDERLAyo 


is  there  10  miles  wide.  Oraseing  within 
the  Arctic  Circle  on  tluit  lino  at  rlic  cunHu- 
ence  of  the  PoTcupine  River  stands  Fort 
Yukon,  960  miles  from  the  sea  and  73 
miles  fnrthfyr  from  St.  Michael.  The  post 
has  had  an  interesting  history.  It  was 
erected  in  1847-8  by  McMiDrray,  oi  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  who  supposed  the 
site  to  be  on  Britisli  territory.  The  Por- 
cupine River  was  also  explored  by  him. 

During  tbe  goveniorsliip  of  Furujehn, 
which  bogan  in  1800,  Major  Kennicott, 
1861,  completed  the  exploration  of  the 
Yukon,  having  made  the  descent  of  the 
Btream. 

In  1865-7  the  Western  Union  Te:egrapJi 
Company  completed  a  series  of  surveys 
to  locate  a  telegraph  route  between  the 
United  States  and  Euroi>e  through  Alaska 
and  Siberia..  Though  the  project  was 
never  consummated,  these  explorations 
were  of  great  value.  They  covered  the 
length  of  the  Yukon,  In  1866  the  entire 
length  of  the  river  from  the  lakes  to  tll<^ 
forks  of  the  Yukon  and  Porcupine  were 
re-explored  by  Kennicott.Lebarge,  Ketch- 
um,  Lukeen  and  others. 

In  18G9  Captain  Raymond,  U.  S.  A., 
locatp<fl  the  iwst  on  United  States  soil. 
490  miles  below  Fort  Selkirk.  It  was 
abandoned  in  1880  and  Belle  Isle  amd 
Fort  Reliance  were  established. 

At  Fort  Yukon  the  river  takes  a  south- 
easterly course  to  Circle  City. 

This  town  in  1896  had  a  gold  mining 
population  of  1,800  people.  Town  lots  it 
is  officially  reported  were  selling  for 
$2,000  each.  The  discoveries  in  the  Klon- 
dike in  a  few  days  almost  depopulated  it. 

The  next  station  further  up  the  river 
is  Belle  Isle,  where  there  is  a  United 
States  post  oiKce. 

A  few  miles  beyond  the  Yukon 
crosses  the  international'  meridian  141  de- 
grees west  and  enters  the  present  British 
northwesteni  territory.  On  the  interna- 
tional]! line  is  Buxton,  the  seat  of  a  churclh 
of  England  mission. 

About  100  miles  aibove  Belle  Isle  is  the 
Britisih  town  of  Dawson,  the  chief  town 
of  the  Klondike  gold  region.  The  Yukon 
ohence  continues  to  its  source  on  British 
Canadian  soil. 

237 


il 


\  fl 


OVR  ALASKAN 


On  St.  Lawrence  Island  in  tlie  Bering 
Sea,  about  200  miles  due  west  of  St 
Michael  and  about  the  same  distamce  op- 
posite the  entramce  to  Bering  Straita, 
which  it  com'ma.nd8,  dwells  a  branch  of 
the  Eskimo  or  Innuit  race  of  Alaskai. 
They  are  described  by  the  eariy  explor- 
ers ais  the  finest  tyiws  of  the  Innuits, 
brave  and  hardy,  the  Vikings  of  the  Ber- 
ing Sea.  But  a  few  years  ago  tbe^  num- 
bertxl  800  souls.  TJiey  carried  on  a  brisk 
barter  of  furs,  ivory  and  whaie  bone  gath- 
ered in  their  perilous  ventures  in  the 
■waters  which  encompassed  their  ocean 
island  home.  Civilizatiion  and  its  concomi- 
tant in  the  amtlioration  (V)  ot  aboriginal 
races — rum  speedily  acoomplished  its 
work.  In  a  single  year  400  starved  to 
doatli  froim  the  consequent  abaiidon- 
menit  of  their  ocean  puir^ults  of  the  mon- 
sters of  the  great  deep  through  induJ- 
gence. 

On  the  main  land,  across  the  opening  of 
Norton  Sound,  within  50  miles  of  the  en- 
trance to  Bering  Straits  in  latitude  above 
65  degrees,  is  Port  Glajrence.  Its  chief 
importance  is  as  the  reindeer  experi- 
niemt  .station  under  the  authority  of 
the  United  States  Government,  represent- 
ed by  the  Bureau  of  EJducaition.  There 
are  several  of  these  stations  along  the 
coaft  near  Cape  Prince  of  Wales. 

The  fine  Tiairbor  of  Port  Olarence  af- 
fords safe  anchorage  for  whaling  ships 
to  await  their  tenders  before  passing  the 
Bering  Straits'  imrto  the  Arctic  Ocean. 

It  was  from  this  ix«nt  that  the  United 
States  Govermment  reindeer  relief  expedi- 
tion started  over  land  across  Western 
Alajska  a  distance  of  GOO  miles  with  sup- 
plies for  the  relief  of  American  Avihalers 
caught  in  the  ice  amd  threatened  with 
destruction  or  starvation. 

At  Oape  Prince  of  Wales,  530  miles 
from  Point  Barrow,  the  extreme  western 
point  of  the  North  American  Continent 
on  Bering  Strait,  the  Congregationalists 
have  established  a  mission. 

South  of  Cnpr:  Prince  of  Wales,  on 
Kings  Island,  is  a  isettlement  of  cave 
dwellers. 

TMs  wonderful  locality  is  a  great  mass 

238 


WONDERLAND 


ermg 
St, 
op- 
'aits, 
!h  of 

:plo(r- 
luits, 
Ber- 
num- 
bnisk 
gath- 
the 
►cean 
nai- 

[igiiial 
its 

ed  to 

udou- 
mon- 

indul- 


' 


of  basaltic  rock,  rising  almost  perpendicu- 
lairly  out  of  the  straits  to  a  height  of 
700  feet.  A  settlement  of  Eskimos  or 
Inaiiuits  have  excavated  their  dweMinga 
out  of  the  rock  about  200  feet  above  the 
ocean  surf. 

"When  these  dariag  men  wish  to  put 
to  sea  they  descend  as  near  the  surf  aa 

Eossible.  The  native  takes  his  sent  in 
is  kaiak,  when  two  of  his  companiona 
toss  his  kaiak  with  him  in  it  over  the 
cliflF  and  clear  of  the  surf. 

The  chief  industry  of  these  strange  peo- 
ple is  the  manufacture  of  waterproof 
boots  from  the  skin  of  the  throat  of  the 
seal.  It  is  s«id  that  they  are  superior 
to  rubber.  Their  rain-proof  coats  are 
called  kamilekas. 

On  the  rugged  peak  of  terra  firma  called 
Diomede  Island,  whidi  lies  in  the  middle 
of  the  Bering  Straits,  is  a  settlement  of 
300  Inmiits,  whose  chief  oceupatiom  is 
emuggj^ing.  They  carry  on  a  brisk  trade 
in  their  little  walrus  skin  boats  (bindar- 
kns)  with  Russia  n-Siberia,exphanging  deer 
skins,  sinewis  and  woodem  waire  of  Alaska 
for  walrus  ivory,  taime  reindeer  skins  anid 
whale  blubber  of  Siberia.  Also  firearms 
and  the  appai-ent  handmaiden  of  civiliza- 
tion— ^whisky. 

The  international  ocean  meridian,  169 
degrees  30  minutes,  takes  its  bear- 
ings in  Iftititude  65-30,  a  little  south  of  this 
island  and  thence  proceeds  due  north 
without  limitation  into  thie  frozen  ocean, 
and  from  the  same  point  proceeds  south- 
west, thus  forming  the  intemationall  di- 
visional line  between  America  and  Asia 
and  United  States  and  Russiain  jurisdie- 
tions. 

The  Arctic  or  sixth  geogTaphical  divi- 
sion of  Alaska,  also  described  in  our 
"Alaskan  Possibilities,"  'lies  entirely  with- 
in the  Arctic  Circle.  Its  surface  consistis 
of  frozen  moors  and  smow  masses  and  (has 
Iv^n  but  little  explored.  Its  wealth  is  in 
the  ocean  waters  along  its  shores. 

In  climbing  up  over  the  flattening  cap 
of  this  world  "of  ours"  on  the  American 
Eagle's  side  of  the  Bering  Strait  we  cross 
Kotzbue  Sound,  once  a  celebrated  whal- 
ing ground,  and  reiach  Point  Hope,  with 
239 


i'! 


Blfe 

il^  I'il 


:J;v 


H 


OVB  ALASKAN 

a  settlemeiiit  of  301  and  an  Episoopal  mis- 
sion. Th'm  polar  point  was  occaipied  be- 
fore 1853  and  has  a  native  village  bearing 
a  native  name  meaning  the  inhabi'tants  of 
the  forefinger,  whieh  e<inveys  some  idea 
of  the  peculiar  topography  of  that  Art^tic 
coast. 

We  thence  pass  Oape  Lisbnrne  and  Icy 
Oape  and  finally  reach  Point  Barrow,  the 
American  town  of  the  Land  of  the  Mid- 
night Sun.  In  1826  a  Captain  Be^chy 
cruised  along  tiie  Alaskan  coast  as  far  as 
Point  Barrow.  The  coast  between  the 
Mackenzie  and  Point  Barrow  was  ex- 
plored a«  early  as  1837.  The  Polar,  Ber- 
ing and  Pacific  coasts  of  Alaska  are  now 
completely  mapped  and  marked. 

Point  Barrow,  the  most  northern  habi- 
tation of  the  white  man  on  the  mainland 
of  the  American  continent  along  the 
shores  of  circumpolar  waters  lies  in  lati- 
tude 71  degrees  22  minutes  North  and 
longitude  15G  degrees  17  miniiteo  West. 
It  was  establi^ed  by  the  United  States 
on  its  own  soil  as  a  rescue  station  for  the 
large  fleets  of  whalers  which  visit  that 
portion  of  the  Arctic  Ocean  in  pursnit  of 
the  seal,  walrus  and  whale.  It  is  within 
25  miles  of  being  the  highest  point  on  the 
miainland  of  the  American  Hemisphere. 

The  Eskimo  town  of  Nuwiik  (the  Point) 
stands  at  the  extreme  end  of  Point  Bar- 
row and  at  the  extremity  of  tie  cliffs, 
is  the  native  town  of  Utkiavwin,  the  be- 
ginning of  the  highland  at  Cape  Smyth, 
17  miles  souithwest. 

The  coast  in  this  icy  region  oonsis>bs  of 
steep  banks  of  clay,  gravel  and  pebbles, 
witih  every  indication  of  glacial  drift. 
There  are  frozen  rivers  wlhich  drain  the 
siunmer  meltings  of  ice  and  snow  and 
frozen  lagoone.  The  thiawing  before  the 
frozen  ocean  cuts  some  mighty  and  fan- 
tastic figures  in  the  efforts  of  the  great 
volume  of  unloosed  waters  to  break  their 
borean  bounds. 

Near  Cape  Smyth  a  cliff  25  feet  high 
and  rising  beyond  a  broad  lagoon,  Isiltkwa, 
spreads  an  elevation  but  12  feet  above 
tihe  frigid  waves  of  the  sea.  In  former 
days  it  was  the  site  of  a  village.  To-day 
240 


I. 


WONDERLAND 


Icy 

the 

ivrid- 

hy 

r  as 
the 
ox- 

Ber- 


in  those  frozen  winds  borne  down  from 
the  northern  pole  of  the  earth  flouts  the 
flap  of  the  RciMiblic  over  the  United 
States  signal  S'tation  of  Ooglaamic,  which 
we  Americanize  as  Point  Barrow. 

The  region  ponnd  atKMit  is  desolate  in 
the  extreme,  consisting  of  vjist  reaches  of 
beach,  lagoons,  sand  Hi»its,  bays  and  a 
few  turf  covered  knolls.  Upon  one  of 
these  kno's  stan^ls  the  United  States 
Eskimo  Arctic  town  of  Nuwiik.  The 
populntion  numbers  alwut  250  souls. 

The  country  for  ut  least  50  miles  around 
is  filled  witli  fresh  water  lakes,  and  then 
rises  into  increasing  monntnin  heights  un- 
til we  reach  southward  and  inland  the 
lofty  summits  of  the  Yukon  and  the  Por- 
cupine, cross  country  300  miles  distant. 

The  landscape  around  Point  Barrow  is 
reported  "officially"  as  very  closely  re- 
sembling the  treeless  drift  hills  of  Cape 
Cod. 

The  ground  never  thaws  beyond  two 
feet.  Beneath  thiat  the  ice  king  holds  the 
earth  in  his  perpetual  grip  for  an  un- 
known depth. 

In  the  vicinity  of  this  iiolair  United 
States  "official"  and  nati' ,'  settlement  are 
several  rivers  of  considerable  dimensions 
ami  a  great  fresih  water  lake,  Tasyukpun. 

The  climiaite  of  this  region  is  entirely 
arctic,  being  in  meian  temperature  8  de- 
grees, Fahrenheit,  witii  a  rauge  from 
minus  65  to  plus  52  degrees  as  extremes. 
Tlie  usual  winter  temperature  is  minus  20 
to  30  which  merees  insensibly  into  sum- 
mer in  .Tune  with  "cold  snaps"  and  frosts 
b.v  the  beginning  of  September. 

This  is  our  land  of  the  Midday  Night 
and  the  Midnight  Sun  in  all  their  soditude 
and  glory.  At  point  Barrow  for  72  days 
in  the  winter,  beginning  November  loth, 
the  sun  is  entirely  below  the  horizon  and 
is  only  visible  by  refraction  a  few  days 
at  the  beginning  and  ait  the  end  of  this 
period. 

The  same  interesting  phenomena  in  the 
procession  of  seasons  of  altema.ting  sol- 
stice darkness  at  noon  and  sunlight  at 
midnight,  also  exists  at  Hammerfest, 
Norway,  the  northernmost  town  in 
241 


\\ 


ij. 


14 


OVR  ALASKAN 


1' 


is; 


Europe,   and  hias     been     referred  to  ia 
"Climatic  Alaska." 

The  srun  at  Point  Barpow,  as  at  Ham- 
raerfest,  being  just  below  the  horizon, 
there  is  a  wierd  twilight  from  9  A.  M. 
to  3  P.  M.,  which  is  utilized  for  outdoor 
employTnent. 

In  the  suniimer  t!hepe  is  an  equal  period 
when  the  sun  continually  abovi'  the  hori- 
zon never  sets,  and  foir  a  month  before  and 
after  this  period  there  is  twilight  suffi- 
ciently bright  to  extinguish  the  visibility 
of  the  heavenly  planets. 

The  winter  snow  fall  is  light,  profcably 
a  foot  on  the  level,  but  owing  to  the  ter- 
rific winds  ia  piled  up  in  grc^t  drifts, 
which  begin  to  melt  early  in  April.  The 
grass  begins  to  show  its  verdant  color  in 
June  and  the  arctic  flowers  are  abloom. 

The  winter  weather  is  usually  clear 
and  excessive  cold  is  seldom  accompanied 
with  hig'h  winds.  Gales  have  occurred 
with  winds  100  miles  an  hour. 

The  moat  enjoyable  portion  of  the  year 
is  "officially"  reported  to  be  from  the  mid- 
dle of  May  to  the  end  of  July,  when  the 
sea  opens  and  before  the  foggy  and 
cloudy  weathier  sets  in. 

The  fresh  water  ponds  freeze  about  the 
end  of  September,  when  the  natives  be- 
gin their  sledge  journeys  and  fish  through 
the  ice  of  the  inland  rivers. 

The  sea  is  permanently  closed  from  the 
middle  of  October  to  the  end  of  July.  It 
is  also  covered  with  floating  masses  all 
summer. 

The  grounded  heavy  ice  forming  about 
1,000  yards  from  the  shore  causes  a  "bar- 
rier" or  "landfloe"  of  high  broken  hum- 
mocks, inshore  the  sea  freezing  smooth. 

The  heavy  pack  has  been  known,  under 
the  pressure  of  westerly  winds,  to  be 
pushed  very  suddenly  over  the  "barrier" 
Tind  high  up  on  the  beach. 

Outside  of  the  land-floe  the  ice  is  broken 
pack,  with  hummocks  of  old  and  new  ice 
driven  about  by  every  wind,  the  interven- 
ing open  Wa/ter  freezing  6  inches  in  24 
hours. 

These  drifting  mfusses  sometimes  move 


242 


\ 


} 


I 


4 


WONDERLAND 

fcway  with  the  pack,  while  portions  crush 
in,  cioiiublinjc  the  new  ice  into  atoms. 

The  8ei>amtlon  between  tlie  fixed  land- 
floe  and  the  moving  pack  variee  from  4  to 
8  miles. 

After  the  gialee  the  motion  of  the  pack 
ceases  unitil  the  middle  of  April,  when  the 
easterly  winds  cause  leads  to  open.  As 
the  sun  rises  in  the  hcyrizon  in  July  the 
whole  ice  scene  moves  off  with  the  pack. 

In  the  midst  of  all  this  scene  of  icy  des- 
olation an  annual  fair  is  held  by  the  Es- 
kimo in  summer  at  the  mouth  of  the  CJoI- 
ville  River,  about  200  miles  east  of  Point 
Barrow,  which  is  attended  by  the  native 
races  for  hundreds  of  miles  along  the 
shores  of  the  Polar  Sea  and  the  interior  of 
Western  Alaska. 

It  is  the  United  States  Arctic  i-endez- 
vous  where  our  hyperborean  fellow-citi- 
zens of  this  mundane  hub  gather  to  bar- 
ter their  goods  and  exchange  the  news 
of  the  North  Polar  civele  and  oC  the  ef- 
feminate zones  of  the  crust  of  the  earth. 


iU 


I 


843 


,'S 


P^ 

F' 

!  1 ' 

i 


ill 


LETTER  NUMBER  XXII. 


A  "Howling  Wilderness"  Dawn- 
ing Into  Millions  of  Wealth 
of  Soil  and  Forest. 


The    Reindeer  Herders  of  Arctic 

Plateaus  Rjval  the  Cowboys  of 

Western  Plains. 


''OtBcial"  Anticipations  of  An  Eruption  of 
200,000  Fortune  Seekers. 


A  Xntd- Winter  IT.  S.   MlllltaiT  Reindeer 
Relief  Train  for  Polar  Shores. 


Thio  arability  of  any  given  portion  of  tbe 
eaiTtii's  surface  does  not  necesiiarily  mean 
success  in  the  culture  of  the  staple  pro- 
ducts of  cereals,   cotton   or  cane. 

If  that  be  the  interpretation  of  •^:;A\:al- 
tui-e  th«n  the  Isew  England  States  are  a 
waste. 

In  thfl'ee  of  these  States,  Masisachosetts, 
Rhode  Island  and  Connecticut,  the  quan- 
tity  of  wheat  raised  is  not  even  sufficient 
to  be  made  a  matter  of  (Statistical  com- 
putation. In  the  other  three,  with  a  popu- 
lation of  3,400.000  inhabitants,  the  total 
of  bushels  in  1895  was  but  317,000.  Penn- 
sylvania alone,  with  all  'ner  mines  and 
manufactures,  raised  21,000,000  bushels. 
In  corn  and  oats  the  New  ''Sngland  aggre- 
245 


IHlHi 


I 


OUR  ALASKAN 

gate  is  larger,  but  still  comparatively 
small.  Nor  are  the  Rocky  M'^untaioi 
States,  &a  the  saying  goes,  "iix  it."  When 
you  come  to  wool,  tobacco,  apples  and 
suitable  products  New  England  takes  a 
front  rank. 

Thei-e  are  but  ten  States  in  the  Union 
wliich  raise  cotton,  and  yet  the  output  per 
annum  exceeds  10.000,000  bales. 

There  are  other  things  m  Alaskan  agri- 
culture not  dreamed  of  in  the  pessimistic 
echoes  of  the  Congi-essional  croakers  ai 
their  friends  of  1867. 

The  Church  has  stood  in  the  advance  in 
efforts  to  exploit  the  country  and  amel- 
iorate the  condition  of  the  native. 

Nicholas  Rezanof,  writing  from  Kadiak 
in  1805,  officially  quoted  by  John  G. 
Brady,  Governor  of  Alaska,  in  his  report 
of  1897,  m'^ntions  experiments  in  1795  by 
monks  on  oDions.turnips,  carrots.mustard, 
poppy,  tobacco,  potatoes, cabbage,  cucum- 
bers, watermelons,  radishes,  beets,  i)eas, 
beans,  corn,  sun  and  other  garden  flow- 
ers. 

Out  of  this  toothsome  array  of  esculents 
and  succulents,  the  i>otatoes,  rarlishea 
and  turnips,  the  latter  sometimes  wt  th- 
ing ten  pounds,  produced  fine  crops.  The 
others  gi-ew  rapidly,  but  did  not  mature 
owing  to  early  frosts. 

In  1804,  4  pounds  of  barley  seed  realiz- 
ed 60  i)Ounds.  During  these  same  years 
lai'ge  quantities  of  potatoes  raised  by  the 
natives  of  Killisnoo,  Hootznahoof  and 
Kake,  on  the  Islands  of  Soutlieastern 
Alaska,  were  used  at  the  Russiain  posts. 

On  the  Kenrti  Peninsula  ax  the  earlier 
sietlement  of  that  name,  the  Creole  or 
half-caste  Russian  inhabitants,  since  the 
United  States  jurisdiction,  have  been  cul- 
tivating potatoes  and  tui-nips  on  a  large 
scale. 

About  30  miies  below,  along  the  coast 
a  settlement  of  "Colonial  citizens,"  an 
empty  distinction  accorded  the  superannu- 
ated former  Russian  subjects,  was  estab- 
lished by  Imperial  orders  about  18.S7.  The 
descendants  of  this  remnant  of  Russi'aji 
rule  established  at  Ninilchik,  are  raismg 
sufficient  potatoes  and  turnips  for  them- 
selves and  to  supply  at  good  profits  the 
traders  and  fishermen. 
246 


. 


■' 


WONDERLAND 


These  people  have  even  ventured  with 
success  into  an  incipient  dairy  industry. 
The  Alaskan  cattle,  fed  on  the  g^rasses  of 
the  Cook  inlet  shores  of  this  expansive 
peninsula,  afiford  rich  milk,  out  of  which 
the  native  women  make  butter  by  the 
simple  process  of  shaking  the  cream  by 
hand  in  bottles. 

They  are  also  successful  in  raising 
pigs  and  poultry.  These  four-footed  and 
feathered  representatives  of  farmyar-a  in- 
dustry keep  sleek  and  fat  on  clams  kelp 
and  fish  bones  yielded  by  the  fi-uitful 
tidal  waters  of  AJhska,  which,  ho»vever, 
does  not  improve  the  flavor  of  tbo  flesh. 

The  cultivation  of  potatoes  and  turnips 
on  the  Alexander  archipelago,  the  shoies 
of  Cook  Inlet.  Kenai  Peninsula,  Kadiak 
Island,  Bristol  Bay  and  Afogmac  Island 
is  a  fixed  industiy,  tracts  as  large  as  100 
acres  being  planted.  The  usual  planting 
season,  begins  in  May  and  gathering 
in  October. 

Rear  Admir'al  Beardslee,  U.  S.  N., 
during  his  cruising  in  Alaskan  waters, 
said  officially  that  whether  due  to  the 
clearing  away  of  the  forests  or  improved 
methods,  he  was  not  prepared  to  .'jay,  but 
he  could  say  as  to  results  that  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Sitka  and  Wrangel  excel- 
lent vegetables  were  being  raised  and 
their  cultivation  was  increasing. 

He  reported  two  seasons  in  succession 
when  he  saw  growing  around  Sitka  varie- 
ties of  lettuce,  cabbage,  a  yard  across  in 
leaf,  and  with  heads  8  and  10  inches  in 
diameter;  cauliflower,  weighing  from  10 
to  15  pounds;  early  rose  and  peach- 
blow  potatoes  from  3  '■o  30  ounces  each, 
and  hills  yielding  over  half  a  bucketfull, 
each;  turnips,  cress,  radishes,  green  peas 
of  excellent  qualities,  radishes  and  goose- 
beiTies. 

Lieut.  Allen.  U.  S.  A.,  reported  "offici- 
ally" that  lettuce,  radishes,  turnips, 
beans,  peas,  potatoes,  carrots  and  pos- 
sibly buckwheat  and  barley  can  be  raised 
in  favored  localities  on  the  middle  Yul  on 
and  Tanana.  The  short  suirtmers  ,'ire 
hot,  reaching  a  know.i  temi)eiatnri-  at 
times  of  112  to  115  degrees.  The  humidi- 
ty, however,  is  not  so  great  as  on  the 
coast. 

247 


'i:' 


?i 


I 


W^IS 


OUB  ALASKAN 


ki^.l 


,    '», 


.i      '       r 


The  soil  of  Westera  Alaska  does  not 
thaw  in  summer  below  a  depth  of  two 
feet,  which,  however,  does  not  necessarily 
interfere  with  the  j^rowth  of  certain 
ci'ops,  provided  the  surface  conditions  are 
correct. 

It  is  tlie  ereneral  conc'nJsion  of  exi>erts 
that  with  the  loosening  of  the  ground  by 
cultivation  and  prooer  drainage,  this 
dei)th)  of  thawed  surface  will  be  greatly 
increased. 

The  topography  of  the  arable  parts  of 
Alaska  consists  of  rolling  and  rather 
rocky  hills,  and  extensive  jilains,  often 
marshy  along  the  rivers.  The  character 
of  the  soil  in  some  places  is  clay,  especial- 
ly in  the  colder  latitudet^  where  sphag- 
num grows  host.  A  large  expanse  is  also 
light  and  sandy. 

Othier  vast  expanses  at  the  moutlis  of 
thie  river  are  the  richest  alluvial  of  mud, 
vegetable  .deposits  and  sand  to  great 
depth. 

The  belt  of  frozen  sub-soil  does  not  ex- 
tend below  S  feet. 

The  raising  of  live  stock  has  been  a 
more  pen>lexing  problem.  There  is  an 
abundance  of  nutritious  pasturage  in 
Southeastern  Alaska,  on  the  Kenai  Pen- 
ninsula  and  Kadiak  and  other  Aleutian 
Islands  upon  which  cattle  have  grown 
fat. 

The  climatic  conditions  of  excessive 
humidity,  protracted  and  depressing, 
cloudy  and  foggy  weather,  prolonged 
winters  and  the  prevailance  of  storms  of 
sleet  and  snow  and  cold  from  October  to 
May,  causes  havoc  among  live  stock,  not- 
withstanding ample  quantities  of  food. 

The  Alaskan  mutton  is  prized  by  com- 
petent judges  for  its  hne  fl.'ivor,  but  long 
confinement  under  close  shelter  in  sleety 
weather  causes  sweating  and  other  diffi- 
culties conducive  to  disease  or  decline  in 
fat. 

Alaskan  cattle  and  sheep,  however,  will 
constitute  an  important  factor  in  the  an- 
nual food  supply  of  the  Pacific  shores.  It 
is  a  practice  which  has  beeui  growing 
from  year  to  "  ear  to  ship  cargoes  of  cat- 
tle and  »he<'p  from  California  and  pasture 
them  uix)n  ilie  fattening  grasses  ">f  the 
Aleutian  Islands  ..nd  Kadiak  and  beyond, 
248 


o 


0/ 


1^. 


,7    , 


d^ 


_5iy' 


i 


WONDERLAND 


~  until  fall  when  the  sleek  animals  are 
slauprhtercd  and  Jressed  for  the  Pacific 
Coast  markets. 

By  the  middle  of  October  the  animals 
are  in  prime  condition.  The  American 
hop  also  thrives. 

The  transfer  of  the  "concert"  of  Eur 
i-oije  into  die  "bedlam  of  Asia"  will  give 
rise  to  an  immense  demand  for  agrici  1- 
tuiral  products  from  agricultural  Alaska 
and  our  Pacific  shores  as  well. 

The  horse,  so  much  reduced  in  prestige 
by  steam  and  electricity  in  settled  parts 
of  the  country,  finds  his  rival  in  th»r 
canoes  and  native  biadarkas  of  the 
waters,  the  backs  and  muscles  of  men  and 
dogs  and  in  the  immediate  future  vastly 
more  "o  in  the  invaluable  reindeer. 

The  "noble  animal"  has  no  economic 
value  in  Alaska,  This  may  also  be  said 
of  thie  "facetious"  mule.  AH  attempts  at 
their  utilization  have  been  unsuccessful. 

The  most  interesting  and  important 
problem  in  the  pastoral  branch  of  Alaskan 
agrictilt.ure  is  in  the  introduction  of  the 
European  and  Asiatic  reindeer  as  a  food 
supply  and  an  ad„'vjot  to  inland  travel  and 
transportation  during  the  long  winters. 

This  problem,  which  will  play  such  an 
imjiortant  part  in  the  United  States'  share 
in  the  development  of  the  regions  along 
the  North  Pacific  littoral,  presents  an- 
other object  lesson  of  the  sovereign  people 
being  in  advance  of  their  representatives 
in  Congress.  The  destruction  of  the  food 
supply  of  the  Eskimo-Americans  by  the 
infernal  appliances  of  wasteful  destruc- 
tion incident  to  modem  enterprise,  neces- 
sitated a  speedy  substittition  foT  whales, 
seal,  salmon,  oil,  blubber  and  game  and 
other  sources  available  in  barbarous  days. 

The  Protestant,  Russian  and  Roman 
mdssionaries.  in  the  absence  of  considera- 
tion fiv)m  the  servants  of  the  people  in 
Congress,  promptly  took  the  matter  into 
consideration. 

Dr.  S'heldon  Jackson,  United  States 
General  Agent  of  Education,  acting  under 
the  Office  of  Education  at  Wasli- 
ington.  D.  C,  first  "oflicially"  suggested 
the  experiment. 

After  vainly  endeavoring  to  interest  the 
349 


m 


Cii 


mm 


OUR  ALASKAN 


I  *i' 


/,    I 


Fifty-firat  Congress  in  giving  the  utiliza- 
tion of  the  reindeer  a  trial  as  .i  food  sup- 
pdy  for  American  citizons  deprived  by  the 
mnch  vaunted  enterT>ri8e  of  the  day  of 
their  moanfl  of  support,  this  gentleman  ap- 
pealed to  the  generous  heart  of  the  Uin- 
paid  sovereigns  of  the  land  tlirough  die 
missionary  boards  and  public  press. 

The  Scandinavian  pretss  embarked 
hieartily  in  the  progect.  The  Mail  and  Ex- 
press, of  New  York;  the  Transcript,  of 
Boston;  the  Ledger,  of  Philadelphia;  the 
Inter-Ocean,  of  Oliicago;  the  Star  of  the 
city  of  Washington,  and  the  leading  re- 
ligious papers  of  the  land  al-K>  extended  a 
supporting  hand,  until  $2,156  were  speed- 
ily raised  as  a  free-will  offering  to  com- 
mence the  expeiriment. 

This  fund  was  converted  into  merchan- 
dise for  barter  with  the  natives  of  Siberia, 
notably:  Guns,  Ammunition,  Traps, 
Hardware,  Flour,  Provisions,  Cotton 
Good®,  Tents,  Dishes,  Beads,  Trinkets 
and  Tobacco. 

Thirougli  the  assistance  of  the  Scandina- 
vian papei-s  of  the  United  States  a  suita- 
ble person,  William  A.  Kjelmann,  of  Mad- 
ison, Wisconsin,  was  secured  to  take 
charge  as  superintendent  of  stations.  A 
native  of  Finmarken,  Mr.  Kjelmann  had 
herded  reindeer  in  his  native  land  until 
22  years  of  age.  Afterwards  he  was  em- 
ployed as  an  expjert  in  buying  and  selling 
reindeer  and  reinideer  products,  a  most 
important  item  of  commercial  and  eco- 
nomic value,  of  which  we  citizens  will 
learn  with  interest  in  the  future. 

In  1891  a  small  herd  of  reindeer,  pur- 
chaised  in  that  year,  were  liberated  on  the 
Aleutian  Islands  of  Unalaska  and  Amak- 
nak.  They  not  only  prospered,  but  were 
often  spen  on  the  mountain  sides  fat  and 
contented.  There  were  20  reindeer  pur- 
chased in  that  year  at  $180.90. 

In  1892  Dr.  Jackson  visited  the  head  of 
Clarence  Bay  to  find  a  suitable  station  for 
future  operations.  The  chief  points  of 
consideration  were  proximity  to  Siberia, 
the  source  of  originiaJ  supply,  safe  har- 
borage for  landing  and  communication, 
centrality  for  distribution  of  supplies  and 

250 


IV:  -A. 


WONDERLAND 


>  utiliza- 
ood  8up- 
d  by  the 
•  day  of 
;man  ap- 

tbe  uju- 
>ug'h  the 
>ss. 
imbarkcd 

and  Ex- 
jcript,  of 
phia;  the 
ar  of  the 
ading  re- 
ctended  a 
?re  speed- 
r  to  com- 

merehaa- 
)f  Siberia, 
1,  Traps, 
;,  Cotton 
Trinkets 

Scandina- 
39  a  suita- 
n,  of  Mad- 
(d  to  take 
itions.  A 
mann  had 
land  until 
e  was  em- 
ind  selling 
s,  a  most 
,  and  eoo- 
tizens  will 
are. 

ideer,  pair- 
ited  on  the 
md  Amiak- 
,  but  were 
les  fat  and 
Indeer  pur- 

the  head  of 
station  for 
'  points  of 
■^to  Siberia, 
,  safe  har- 
municatiou, 
iipplies  and 


« 


herds,  abundance  of  sphngnnm  pasturage 
and  fresh  wniter. 

These  requisites  were  found  in  the  old 
Russian  Bay,  Kaviaijak,  but  a  few  hours 
steam  from  Siberia,  explored  by  lioechy, 
an  English  navail  officer,  in  1827,  and 
named  Port  Clarance,  after  the  Duke  of 
that  name,  afterward  George  IV,  King. 

The  bay,  12  by  14  miles,  affords  the  best 
harbor  on  the  American  side  of  Bering 
Sea.  It  is  the  rendezvous  of  tlie  w^haling 
fleet  in  the  beginning  of  July  to  take  in 
supplies  of  fresh  water  and  to  await  the 
provision  ships  from  "the  States."  The 
region  in  the  vicinity  also  affords  nutri- 
tious grass  resembling  blue  joint. 

At  the  extreme  northeastern  comer  of 
the  bay,  upon  a  small  mountain  stream, 
headquartei"8  are  located.  The  flag  of  the 
United  States  was  unfurled  to  the  arctic 
breeze  and  a  rifle  salute  was  fired  in  its 
honor  on  June  29th,  1892,  at  10  A.  M. 

A  few  mileis  east  hiad  Ivoen  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Russian-American  tele- 
g'lph  expeditions  of  1865  and  '(!7. 

x'be  station  was  named  after  Henrj'  ^I. 
Teller,  of  Colorado,  Secretary  of  the  In- 
terior, NVho  in  1885  authorized  the  fstab- 
lishmenit  of  the  common  scl'ool  system  of 
Alaiska  provided  for  by  tlie  United  States 
Congress  and  for  his  vigoirous  support  of 
the  reindeer  problem. 

In  1892,  171  reindeer  were  purchased 
from  the  natives  along  the  opposite  coast 
of  Siberia  for  .$623.  The  firet  herd  was 
pairchased  by  the  Government  from  these 
private  funds. 

It  was  proposed  to  distribute  the  herds 
among  the  missionary  (Stations,  giving  100 
head  each  to  the  Congregationalists  at 
Oape  Prince  of  Wales;  the  Swedisih  Evan- 
gelical Church  at  Golovin  Bay;  the  Pres- 
byte'"ianis  at  St.  Laurence  Islands,  and 
Romanists  on  the  Yuk«>n.  With  the  in- 
crease of  the  herds  other  religious  de- 
nominations were  to  be  similarly  supplied 
if  they  so  desired. 

This  i>olicy  has  been  carried  out  among 
the  arctic  religioais  stations  and  has  been 
attended   with   great     success,   both   for 
food,  domestic  use  and  transportation. 
251 


11 


OVR  ALASKAN 


Sil 


■  The  laniliiiff  of  those  liords  onr- 
riod  on  the  swift  win}?»  of  hyi)orl)oreun 
breezes  brought  eskimo  iiativcis  from  as 
far  as  500  miles  to  see  tlie  strauge  aui- 
mals.  Tliej'  promptly  besought  herds  for 
themselves,  offering  to  pay  for  them  in 
barter.  It  is  proposed  to  distribute  the 
aiiiuvaJs  among  the  natives  as  soon  as 
practicable. 

Parties  were  also  sent  to  Lapland  to 
contract  for  Lapps  with  their  dogs  trained 
to  herding  the  I't'indeer,  to  be  used  as  in- 
struetons  of  the  Eskimo-Americans. 

After  the  experiment  had  been  made  an 
assured  success  Cb'Ugress  in  1893-4  appro- 
priated $0,000  for  the  purchase  of  rein- 
deer, erection  of  buildings,  socuring  ai>- 
pliances  and  employment  of  necessai'y 
trained  men  and  apprentices.  The  rein- 
deer experiments  in  Alaska  have  received 
national  recognition  by  the  hurried  pur- 
chase of  foreign  animals  and  the  equip- 
ment of  a  large  military  i*eindeer  sledge 
train  for  the  relief  of  the  sailors  of  the 
arctic  whaling  fleet  caught  in  the  ice  of 
the  Polar  Sea  beyond  our  Arctic  Alaskan 
possessions.  By  no  other  method  known 
to  human  ingenuity  could  have  been  ac- 
complished or  even  made  possible  the 
humanitarian  movement  in  the  depth  of 
au  arctic  winter. 

The  reindeer  may  now  be  accepted  as 
an  established  factor  in  Alaskan  economy 
and  enterprise.  The  long  fibrous  white 
moss  covered  plains  of  Alaska  will  noiw 
be  brought  within  the  realms  of  economic 
value.  The  explorations  show  an  inex- 
haustible supply  of  reindeer  food,  superior 
to  that  found  in  Siberia. 

On  the  basis  of  the  reindeer  statistics 
of  Norway  or  Sweden,  it  is  estimated  that 
fully  9,000,000  of  these  acimals  can  flour- 
ish in  Arctic  and  Sub-Arctic  Alaska. 
This  would  furnish  fot>d,  clothing  and 
transportation  for  250,000  inhabitants. 
As  to  the  economic  value  of  the  reindeer 
compared  with  any  one  of  our  domestic 
animals,  it  might  be  said  in  the  language 
of  the  day  that  the  latter    ire  "not  in  it." 

The  flesh  is  a  delicacy  wJiether  fi-esh  or 
cured  and  suiimsses  veuisou  or  beef.    The 
252 


^ 


i  !■ 


WONDERLAND 

untannod  skin  furnishes  the  best  clothing 
for  low  wiutiT  temperatures.  When  tan- 
ned it  is  unsunmssed  for  the  book  binder, 
upholsterer  and  gloveuiaker,  l>ciag  soft 
and  stronjf. 

The  hair  is  unequalled  for  life  saving 
apimratus,  being  buoyant.  The  honis  and 
hoofs,  converted  into  glue,  is  th'e  best  iu 
the  market. 

It  is  noit  improbable  tha-t  Eskimo  aTul 
other  Americans  will  ere  long  develop  a 
reindeer  industry  which  will  rival  in  mil- 
lions, proportionate  to  the  area  utilized,  the 
enormous  cattle  raising  induaitry  of  Texas 
and  the  plains. 

Saddles  and  haunches  of  Alaskan  rein- 
deer, with  winter  temperature  and  quick 
transportation,  will  be  for  sale  in  the  mar- 
kets of  tlie  larger  cities  of  the  States. 

As  to  the  reindeer  itself,  it  is  found  iu 
the  arctic  and  sub-arctic  regions  of  Asia, 
Europe  and  America.  The  American 
reindeer  seems  incapable  of  domestica- 
tion. The  fur  is  a  seal  brown.  Some 
have  large  white  spots  among  the  deep 
brown. 

To  the  Laplanders  the  reindeer  repre- 
sents weialth. 

Its  value  is  that  of  the  horse,  cow,  sheep 
and  goat  of  mild  laititudets  combined. 

A  full  grown  animal  can  dr'aw  500 
pounds  on  a  sled.  As  a  "roadster"  it  will 
surpass  any  horse  ever  known,  a  hundred 
miles  a  day  not  being  an  unusual  journey 
o^er  the  deep  snow,  and  at  the  end  it 
will  pick  up  its  own  food  aad  find  its  own 
shelter  from  the  winds. 

Its  hoofs,  deeply  cleft,  adapt  it  to  travel 
inthe  snow. 

In  winter  it  digs  for  it;9  moss  food  be- 
neath the  snow  or  feeds  on  lichens,  which 
grow  on  the  trees. 

A  full  grown  reindeer  at  three  years  is 
4^/2  feet  high  and  7  feet  from  nose  to  tail, 
and  oYz  feet  in  the  girth.  In  average  con- 
dition it  will  weigh  250  pounds.  The  male 
and  fenmle  are  about  eciuaJ  weight.  The 
honis  sitand  2%  feet  from  tip  to  tip,  with 
sometimes  a  fan  shaped  horn  extending 
from  the  inside  of  one  or  thm  other  about 
a  foot. 

253 


r 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  {MT-3) 


1.0 


LI 


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1.25      1.4    II 

1.6 

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6"     

► 

PhotDgraphic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER, NY    MS80 

(716)  873-4503 


I 


OUR  ALASKAN 

Thi«  luvm  is  used  in  clearing  aw'ay  the 
snow  from  the  mcuss  beneath.  The  hoims 
are  about  two  inohes  thick  and  covered 
with  a  fuzzy  for. 

It  is  estimated  that  the  Bskimos  kill 
15,000  wild  reiudeer  every  year  in  the 
chase. 

Thus  will  be  utilized  a  vast  region  un- 
united to  agriculture  or  cattle  raising. 

This  branch  of  farming  industry  was 
projected,  prosecuted  and  perfected  under 
the  auspices  of  the  Office  of  Educaition, 

In  November,  1897,  a  party  of  12  Lapps 
who  had  been  herding  reindeer  in  Alaska 
under  contract  with  the  United  States 
Grovernment,  embarked  at  New  York  for 
their  Ijapiand  home.  Their  services  were 
an  entire  success.  Their  cantrymen  will 
be  further  utilized  in  the  most  wonderful 
economic  triumph  of  the  dose  of  the  Nine- 
teenth century. 

In  smmll  fruits  and  berries  Alaska  can- 
not be  excelled,  either  for  flavor  or  abun- 
dance. Tlie  cranberry,  that  luscious  con- 
oomitant  of  Yuletide  turkey  and  tarts, 
thrives  best  where  the  sphagnum  grows. 
Thie  berry  ia  now  exported  to  Europe. 
The  Alaskan  cranberry  will  also  have  a 
share  in  this  profitable  trade.  The  varie- 
ties of  berries  on  the  1  wer  latitudes  of 
the  Yukon  include  whortie,  buckle,  black, 
salmon  and  strawberries,  besides  black 
and  red  currants,  the  latter  at  2%  cents  a 
pound  by  the  natives  and  several  varie- 
ties of  wild  berries,  which  are  edible  and 
will  sooner  or  larter  be  introduced  to  civil- 
ization as  among  the  Alaskan  products  in 
the  Ani^riean  markets. 

The  Depai-tment  of  Agriculture,  during 
the  summer  of  1897,  completed  a  "reconr 
nodssance"  of  Alaska  from  an  agrdculturai 
standpoint.  The  reports  of  W.  H.  Ev- 
ans and  Benton  i^^illdxn,  the  commission- 
ers^ cover  the  ground  very  carefully.  They 
visited  Southeastern  Alaska,  Oopper  River 
and  other  arable  sections  of  the  more 
temperate  cEmatic  readings.  They  officiaV 
ly  reported  the  soil  of  those  regions  ridh 
if  properly  drained,  that  grasses  grow  to 
great  perfection,  "red  top"  being  the  most 

254 


I 


WONDERLAND 


■ 


oommoTi,  witlh  timothy  fivo  feet  in  height; 
the  coTinlry  is  pre-emdnently  the  land  of 
BmaM  fruits  and  berries,  some  of  which 
might  be  introduced  into  the  United 
States;  the  earlier  and  hardier  vegetablea 
thrive;  the  field  at  cereals  is  limited  and 
uncertain;  flax  is  a  success;  stock 
raising  in  certain  localities  is  poe- 
ble;  there  is  need  for  legislation 
to  secure  ixpoprietary  rights  in  the 
soil'  before  developmettt  can  be  expected; 
popii'ation  is  pouiring  in  and  may  be  200,- 
000  in  1898;  the  fooc'  supply  for  this  onor- 
raous  and  magic  increase  must  be  sfhiipped 
from  outside  owing  to  lack  o/  Tiome  sup- 
ply; the  climatic  condition>»  of  the  coast 
are  like  Scottemd. 

The  report  favors  preparation  of  (?oil, 
adaptation  of  culture  methods,  stock  raiie- 
inig.  silo  making,  adaptation  of  vegetables 
and  crops  to  the  region  amd  donwstioa- 
tion  of  nature  fruits  and  grasses. 

If  any  permanent  stations  which  thjey 
do  not  recommend  should  be  establiished, 
■fflie  commissioners  advise  the  vicinity  of 
Sitka  or  Kndiak.  They  prefer  a  gtmeral 
fund  for  expenditure  in  the  discrefion'  of 
the  Secretary  of  Agriculture,  the  act  of 
Mardi  2d,  1887,  being  inapplicable  with- 
out further  legislation. 

In  a  separate  report  to  the  Secretary, 
native  grasses  are  said  to  grow  luxuriant- 
ly an  inch  a  day  as  soon  as  the  thnber 
is  removed :  the  finest  grass  they  have  ever 
seen  was  in  the  Copper  River  Delta. 
White  clover  and  Kentucky  blue  grass 
«ire  becoming  indigenous.  Vegetation 
proceeds  rapidly  iii  the  long  days  of  .Tuly. 
The  humidity  and  length  of  winter  and 
not  coldnesB  is  an  obstacle.  It  may  be 
said,  without  exaffgerntion.  that  the 
agrip^iltural  future  of  Alaska  as  popula- 
tion increases  will  eclipse  the  realisationB 
of  many  estabished  "States." 

The  forest  branch  of  agriculture  consti- 
tutc«  another  immense  source  of  the 
natural  wealth  of  soil'  of  Alaska. 

The  timber  belt  follows  the  coast  line 
from  the  "fisrhtine  paraller*  of  54-40  to 
north  of  the  mouth  of  the  Yukon  and  in- 
land 100  to  1.'>0  mi!'S. 

The  northern  and  western  spruce  limit 
255 


,»  M 


OUR  ALASKAN 


exteiM'c  from  the  Unalalik  River  on  Nor- 
ton Sound,  eaat  and  northeastward,  just 
north  of  the  Yukon,  Kuskokwim  and 
Nu8h«Kek  Rivei'S.  across  the  Alaskan 
Peninsula  to  the  -VAcinity  of  Orlova  Bay, 
on'  Kaidiak  Island'. 

The  forests  are  almost  wholly  evier 
green,  Ijhe  spruee  being  largely  ia,  sxcgbb 
of  ail;  other  vairieties. 

Of  the  deciduous  trees  the  aldor  and 
willow  exteojd  on  the  low  lands  far  beyond 
the  northern  and  western  spruce  limit. 

A  variety  of  poplar,  closely  resem'blinig 
the  eottonwood,  which  grows  to  enor- 
mous size,  also  thrives  in  the  timber  re- 
gions south  of  the  Arctic  Circle. 

On  the  Alaskan  side  of  the  141  internar 
tional  meridian  timber  does  not  grow  at 
hipher  altitudes  than  1.000  feet 

The  varieties  of  woods  of  commercJal 
value  are  yellow  cedar,  known  by  the 
Russians  -as  dusknik  (scented  wood),  one 
of  the  most  valuable  on  the  Pacific  coast. 
It  is  excellent  for  cabinet  work.  It  is 
found  mostly  on  Alexandier  Archipelago. 

The  Sitka  spruce  is  the  most  prevalent 
of  the  Alaskan  timbers.  It  grows  to 
enormous  size  on  the  Aliexander  Archi- 
pelago and  the  shores  of  Prince  Wiilliaim 
Sound  and  to  less  size  in  the  ralleys  o<f 
the  Yukon  and  Kuskokwim.  It  is  used 
by  the  natives  in  the  construction  of  their 
houses  even  where  it  does  not  grow,  be- 
ing caught  a'ong  the  coast  and  streams 
in  the  process  of  nature's  methods  of 
transportation  on  ocean  currents  and  river 
freshets.  Its  sappy  nature  makes  it  in- 
valuable to  the  interior  Athabascan 
tribes,  where  oil  is  unknown  for  illumi- 
nating their  houses  dnring  the  perpetual 
night  of  winter.  It  is  used  for  sled  run- 
ners, being  better  than  iron.  The  Thlin- 
gkets  and  kindred  races  of  the  Arehipel«<- 

fro  hew  their  symmetrieaT    canoes    from 
t  and  use  it  in  their  dwellings.    It  is  also 
accessible  to  water  transportation. 

The  hemlock,  exceeding  even  the  spruce 
in  size,  is  better  adapted  for  fuel  than 
building. 

■  Ba'saim  fir,  the  bark  of  which  is  large- 
ly used  by  the  natives  for  tanning,  is  of 
great  vallie. 

256 


WONDERLAND 


Scnib  pine  is  found  over  a  great  portion 
of  interior  Alaska  to  the  highest  altitudes 
of  lumber  growth. 

The  manufacture  of  lumber  for  the  mar- 
ket is  in  its  infancy-  It  is,  however, 
capable  of  great  expamsion  for  the  supply 
of  trading  posts  and  mining  camps.  Aa 
the  local'  demand  becomes  established  saw 
milLs  will  multiply  and  the  present  supply 
mostly  brought  in  from  more  thickly  set- 
tled sections  of  the  coast,  will'  be  more  or 
less  superseded  by  the  hiome  product. 

At  interior  points  the  natives  still  use 
the  slow  and  tedious  process  of  fq)lit- 
ting  planks  with  iron  or  ivory  wedges. 

In  the  treeless  islands  of  the  Shumagin 
and  Aleutian  groups  the  supply  is  brought 
in  by  water  from  the  timbered  sections. 
This,  with  the  |rrowth  of  population,  will 
give  rise  to  an  immense  trade. 

The  forests  of  Alaska  are  to-day  even 
more  valuable  than  in  1867,  when  the 
croakers  of  the  Foirtieth  Congress  were 
crying  "a  howling  Alaskan  wilderness" 
in  most  senseless  and  unparliamentary 
tones.  Nature,  too,  to  protect  this  valuable 
resource  of  our  Alaskan  soil  from  fire  has 
clothed  the  surface  witli  the  long  fibrous 
water-soakod  sphagnum. 

The  GTovemment  owns  this  vast  reserve 
of  wealth  wbioh  has  neither  been  opened 
to  sale  nor  protected  from  the  depreda- 
tions of  the  white  population,  its  great 
consumers,  for  domestic  and  industrial 
uses. 

It  may  be  mentioned  as  another  of  the 
many  freaks  of  nature  in  this  land  of  won- 
ders that  frequently  immense  mountain 
slides  carry  down  with  rock  and  ruibbdiaih 
■^•ist  acres  of  forests  from  the  very  tops 
of  the  mountains  into  the  oceans  at  their 
base. 

The  baldness  left  behind  in  a  few  sea- 
sons is  covered  with  salmon  berry,  black 
currants,  devil  club,  elder  and  other  shrub- 
Ijery,  and  all  of  which  is  snc('oe<l<Ml  in 
time  by  a  new  growth  of  spruce  and  hem- 
lock. 

257 


1 


i 


MILLIONS  II  FURS, 


I 


I 


LETTER  NUMBER  XXIII. 


From  the  Depths  of  the  Sea  and 
Solitudes  of  the  Forest. 


Alaska's    Contribntion    to   Royal 

Robes  and  Costumes  of  Fashion 

of  Old  and  New  Worlds. 


Hm  a  National  Right  B«en  Vompromlacd 
for  a  iHesa  of  Dlplomatlo  Pottage  ? 


It  wowld  not  be  a  distortion  of  the 
truth  of  history  to  say  that  every  one  of 
the  original  Thirteen  Nortii  American 
Colonies"  of  Einiglaind,  aifterwarda  com- 
prised within  the  bounds  of  the  autono- 
mous United  States  of  America  bank- 
rupted th«  incorporated  companies  or  in- 
dividuals or  seriouBly  embarrassed  the 
governments  wiMch  undertook  their  ex- 
ploitation/ and  colonization. 

The  "originc!  thirteen"  StatesLJnoludinig 
the  later  States  of  Vermont,  Kentucky, 
Tennessee,  Ohio  and  West  Virginia, 
carved  out  of  their  original  domain,  em- 
braced 525,000  square  miles,  or  54,000 
square  miles  less  than  the  domiain  oif 
Alaska. 

The  o!d.  "thirteen"  exi)ended  about 
$200,000,000  and  achieved  a  glorious  tri- 
umph ovei"  an  obstinate  King  to  secure 
their  indei)endence  which  has  proven  the 
'best  investment  any  considerable  portion 
259 


Of 


OUR  ALASKAN 


i   ' 


V 


H 


li    £  I 


I 

it'      V'f 


of  the  human  family  ever  made  for  them- 
Bel'ves  and  their  fellow-man.  The  advant- 
ages of  thia  investment  by  our  "Conti- 
nental"  ancestors  are  to-day  beyoaod  con- 
templation in  money  and  beyond  compre- 
lieiieion  in  the  "life,  liberty  and  pursuit  of 
happiness,"  they  vouchsafe  to  every 
American  citizen. 

The  Vlrgia  land  of  Alaska  cost  $7.- 
200,000,  paid  by  the  people  of  the  United 
States  through  their  national  Senate  and 
House  of  Representatives.  The  products 
of  its  natural'  resources  have  repaid  the 
amount  over  and  over  ngatn  and  will  con- 
tinue to  do  so,  apparently,  by  an  increas- 
ing ratio. 

I  can  stiU  fee'  grating  upon  my  ears 
the  hairsh  oratory  of  the  Oongressional 
croakers  of  the  Fortieth  Congress.  I  am' 
glad  to  say,  however,  a  minority  of  that 
body,  boxin*r  the  compass  of  criticism, 
oen«ure, vituperation  and  scandJuOus  ignor- 
ance against  the  patriotic  statesman  who 
accomplished  that  great  achievement  of 
dipkHnacy. 

The  names  of  such  misrepresenta-tivee 
of  the  patriotism  and  progressive  spirit 
of  the  American  people  as  «.  body  should 
be  publicly  proclaimed  so  that  the  rising 
generations  may  read  as  they  run.  in  the 
course  of  Empire. 

It  will  doubtless  cause  the  great  mass 
of  the  people  of  the  United  States  to 
bulge  with  surprise  when  I  mention  from 
official  sources  thiat  the  value  of  the  furs 
alone  shipped  from  Russian- America  and 
Alaska  sinee  their  discovery,  1745,  down 
to  the  census  year  of  1890  aissumed  the 
enormous  known  dimensions  in  value  of 
$93,102,970. 

It  was  not  nintil  1786.  41  years  after 
the  discovery  of  Russian- Amertoa  that  the 
rookeries  of  the  fur  seal  were  discovered 
by  Gerasslm  Pribilof,  the  daring  Russian 
navigator.  It  is  said  that  while  cauitioue- 
ly  feeling  his  way  on  the  waters  of  Ber- 
ing Sea  on  a  foggy  day  in  June,  Pribilof 
was  astonished  by  am  unfamiliar  roar  as 
loud  as  thunder.  When  the  fog  lifted  be- 
fore him  lay  the  islands  which  bear  his 
name     and     his    astonished  gaze  rested 

260 


H     i 


e 


wiM'maijaa 


WONDERLAND 


upon  ft  countless  multitude  of  the  valua- 
ble fur-bearing  seal. 

In  the  first  year  after  this  discovery 
500.000  fur  seals  were  'rilled  by  the  Rus- 
sian hunters.  Vemaminof,  the  Ruissian 
missiooary,  says  2,000,000.  It  is  knoiwn 
that  the  seals  were  nearly  extenninated. 
At  least  one-half  the  skins  were  lost  from 
ignorance  in  the  methods  of  preservatiooi. 

The  Chinese  were  the  first  buyers  of 
these  skins  in  the  Siberian  markets  and 
for  a  time  refused  to  exchange  their  teas 
far  any  merchandise  the  Russians  had  to 
barter  except  their  seal  skins. 

The  aggregate  of  all  skins  between  the 
Russian  disocery,  1745.  and  the  cession 
to  the  Uniteu  States,  1867,  a  period  of 
122  years,  was  $44,584,041. 

Since  the  later  date  to  the  census  year 
1890,  a  period  of  23  yeans,  the  value  was 
$48,518,929,  or  'nearly  seven  times  what 
the  territory  cost  the  American  people. 

The  eflScient  restrictive  measures  of  the 
visiting  imperial  Chamberlain  Nicolai 
Reaaniof  in  1807  prohibiting  the  killing  of 
seals  for  five  years  restored  their  numbers 
so  that  the  subsequent  Russian  American 
Company  found  the  sealing  industry  a 
fixed  and  certain  sou'xje  of  revenue. 

It  ihas  since  been,  sihown  by  exi)erience 
that  with  prohibition  of  indiscriminate 
slaughter  the  rookeries  will  sustain  with- 
out dimimition  of  productive  substitution 
a  slaugliter  of  100,000  seals  a  year. 

The  wholesale  pelagic  destruction  by 
vessels  from  Britisli  Columbia,  of  male 
and  female  seal,  the  latter  on  their  way  to 
the  breeding  haunts,  has  of  late  yeans 
threatened  extinction. 

It  is  not  necess'ary  here  to  follow  the 
example  of  the  lengthy,  protracted  and 
compromising  controversy  over  an  estab- 
lisbed  and  inalienable  right  of  jurisdic- 
tion and  property  of  the  people  of  the 
United  States  in  the  product  of  their  own 
soil  and  waters  adjacent  thereto. 

No  one,  except  a  querrelous  diplomat,  so 
called,  and  the  interests  of  a  nation, 
disastrons'ly  misunderstood  by  the  admin- 
istrators of  its  might,  would  permit 
riglits  and  authority  to  be  trifled  with  by 
purposely  prolonged  controversy  w^hile  the 
261 


OUR  ALASKAN 


*  f 


i  ; 


I 


U 


oCFendinjr  party  eontimies  Its  spoiHatioiw. 

The  Kre«it  Empire  of  Russia  by  sum- 
mary amid  just  methods  amply  protected 
her  sea!  herds  of  the  (^nnmandoraki 
Islamd<»  ofF  her  Kamtchatkan  coast. 

After  the  discovery  of  the  Pribiltof 
breeding  grounds  the  threatened  extfane- 
tion>  of  the  seal  nothwithfttamdJng  their 
polygamouis  nature  by  wholesale  and  n»- 
restrained  slaughter,  led  to  wise  regula- 
tion of  the  drafts  uipou  the  herds.  By  the 
establishment  of  a  native  protection  over 
them  and  the  taking  only  of  the  surplms 
males  (kholostiaks  or  "bachelors"  as  the 
Russians  designated  them)  the  numbers 
were  rapidly  restored.  The  system  of  for- 
bidding the  slaughter  of  fenuileis  and 
young  and  limiting  the  s'aughter  to  a  fixed 
nixmber  of  males  under  certain  ages  so>cn 
pestored  a  natuiral  equilibrium  governed 
by  natural  laws.  This  system  in  working 
order  in  1845  had  operatod  so  wisely  that 
wihen  the  people  of  the  United  States  be- 
came v«(9ted  with  the  proprietajy  right 
in  the  entire  territory  the  numbers  were 
even  greater  than  had  ever  been  known. 

The  seal  herds  were  also  known  to 
exist  on  Falkland  and  other  isles  In  the 
vicinity  of  the  southern  latitudes  of  the 
American  Hemisphere,  but  were  practic- 
ally exterroinated  by  indiscriminiate 
Slaiughter.  ■•  -^n  with  the  exercise  of 
needful  juri  '-  •'♦don  these  herds  have  not 
yet  been  rest^.'ed  to  their  former  num- 
'bers. 

In  the  face  of  this  exfperience  the  peo- 
ple of  the  United  States  have  through 
their  oflicial  servants  been  led  into  trifling 
dlplomaAiy  in  defiance  of  an  inalienable 
rigtht  of  property  and  jurisdiction  at  first 
enjoyed  by  the  majestic  and  delightfully 
autocratic  Empire  of  Russia  and  later 
transferred  intact  to  the  United  States  of 
America.  To  allow  thnis  right  to  be  ques- 
tioned by  a  weak  and  superoilions  depend- 
ency of  a  power,  at  no  time  since  her  se- 
vere double  thrashing  in  war  sincerely 
friendly  towaird  the  United  States,  is  aa 
absurd  as  it  is  humilialing  to  American 
manhood  and  sense  of  right  and  power. 

The  first  year  of  Ameriean  production 
was  charaoterized  by  enterprises  in  the 
262 


ii    i 


WONDERLAND 


ipoiliaitions. 
a  by  sum- 
7  protected 
imandorskl 
coast 
e    PribUtof 
aed  extine- 
idJng  their 
lie  amd  «»• 
rise  reguln- 
pde.  By  the 
teetion  ovor 
the  Burp'.ins 
ore"  as  the 
le  numbers 
Btem  of  for- 
amilpis'    and 
er  to  a  fixed 
a  ages  soon 
oa  governed 
in  working 
wisely  that 
a  States  be- 
ietary  right 
niibers  were 
)eeaii  known. 
0  known  to 
isles  In  the 
udes  of  the 
'ere  practic- 
(iiscrimiimate 
exerciise     of 
ds  have  not 
ormer  mum- 
ice  the  ppo- 
ive  throug'hi 
into  trifling 
inalienaWe 
rtiou  at  first 
delightfully 
a  and   later 
■ed  States  of 
to  be  ques- 
ious  depend- 
since  her  se- 
ar sincerely 
States,  is  aa 
to  Anoericani 
inid  power, 
a  production 
ttises  in  the 


absence  of  defined  law  which  resulted  in 
the  slaughter  of  240,000  of  these  valna/ble 
(sources  of  eommerciali  value.  The  «dop- 
tioin  of  the  Russian  method  of  pr(>''jotlon 
alone  prevented  the  destniction  of  the 
herds  at  that  time.  The  United  States 
Govei-nment  also  resorted  to  the  universal 
panacea  of  all  national  ills,  legiskftion^  be* 
ginning  in  1870.  Thae  was  made  more 
stringent  in  1873  by  makhig  it  a  criminal 
offense  to  kill  a  female  sea)  or  to  take 
seals  except  in  eonformity  with  the 
authority  and  regulations  of  the  United 
States.  Also  seizure  and  confiscatioin  of 
vessels  was  made  a  penalty.  This  (dl>owed 
a  larger  number  than  the  Russian  draft, 
30,000  to  40,000  seals  each  year,  which 
was  increased  to  70,000  durmig  Russian 
regime. 

The  sueoeiss  of  the  enforcement  of  leg- 
islation enabled  the  United  States  to  take 
100,000  a  year  fromi  the  beginning  of  its 
iurisdidtion  till  the  year  1890,  or  about 
23  years,  when  there  were  indiciations  of 
diminution. 

The  practice  of  leasing  thie  islands  to  a 
responsible  private  corpooution  for  a  term 
of  twenty  years  in  consideration  of  a  reve- 
nue tax  and  a  gross  sum  of  $60,000  rent 
and  other  comviensntion,  properly  watch- 
ed was  also  a  protective  measuie  held  at 
first  for  years  by  the  Alaska  CommercdaA 
CJomjvany. 

On  May  12th.  1890.  the  Secretary  of 
the  Treasury  for  the  United  States  under 
aiithority  of  law  entered  into  a  compact 
with  the  North  American  Commercial 
Companv  for  another  term,  panting  them 
the  exclusive  riirht  of  takmg  fur  seal's 
upon  the  Prlbilof  Is'ands,  St.  George  and! 
St.  Fan!  in  Alaska  from  May  1,  1890,  for 
a  period  of  twenty  yeoirs.  in  consideration 
of  an  annual  rental  of  $60,000;  also  an 
additional  revenue  tax  or  duty  of  $2  laid 
upon  eaich  fur  sealskin  taken  and  shipped 
by  it  from  said  islands;  also  the  furtlier 
sum  of  $7.6214  aniece  for  each  and  every 
fur  sealskin  taken  and  shipped  from  said 
islands,  and  also  to  pay  50  cents  per  gal- 
lon on  oil  sold  by  it  made  from  said  seals, 
all  guaranteed  and  payable  to  the  treas- 
urer of  the  United  States. 
263 


ii; 


i\ 


OUR  ALASKAN 


J 

1 


'ii 


r 


They  also  covenanted  to  fiu-iilsh  the  in- 
habitants of  said  inlunds  annually  with 
dried  salmon  and  salt  oaid  barrels  for  pre- 
serving their  noceHisary  8iij)[>ly  of  meat; 
also  80  tons  of  coal  annually;  also  a  suf- 
ficiemt  nximber  of  (1.wei:i!iiigs  kept  in  proper 
repair,  and  school  houses;  aJeo  to  maintain 
aeuools  for  the  education  of  the  childivn 
ei^rht  months  In  the  voar  by  competent 
tearbers.  all  to  be  paid  by  the  company 
under  the  su-Derv'sion  of  tlie  Secretary  of 
the  Treasure.  Ihey  were  also  required 
to  maintain  a  home  of  religiouB  worship, 
a  physician,  medicines,  to  care  for  widows 
and  orrnhans  end  the  aged  and  infirm, 
all  free  of  coflt  to  the  said  inhabitants 
and  to  the  satlsfactiofn  of  the  SecretaJiy  of 
the  Treasury. 

The  number  of  seals  allowed  to  be  kill- 
ed each  year  must  not  exceed  sixty  thou- 
sand. 

The  profits  to  the  lessees  were  also 
large.  The  product  was  also  valuable  to 
commercial  enterprise  and  also  built  up 
and  maintained  a  lucrative  manufacturing 
industry  in  a  foreign  country — England. 
Instead  of  these  skinis  being  finished  and 

fmt  on  the  markets  of  the  world  by  Amer- 
ean  citizens,  thousands  of  subjects  of 
that  foreign  state  were  thus  employed  in 
remunerative  occupation. 

The  luxurious  wants  of  modem  civilizn- 
tion.  and  the  devastations  by  the  natural 
enemies  of  seal  life,  the  whales  and  other 
marine  monsters  were  supplemented  in 
their  destructive  warfare  by  the  practice 
of  pelagic  sealing  adopted  before  civiliza- 
tion entertd  the  field  by  the  natives  for 
food  and  clothing. 

In  1876  the  piratical  fleets  of  British 
Columbia  entered  the  fields  of  pelagic 
sealing.  It  was  not,  however,  until  1883 
that  tEese  corsairs  entered  the  Bering  sea 
in  proseeutiom  of  their  illicit  devastations 
upom  the  seal  herds  of  the  people  of  the 
United  States,  thus  more  directly  invading 
the  inalienable  rights  of  property  and  jur- 
isdiction by  the  United  States,  whether 
the  herds  were  ashore  or  passing  through 
their  feeding  migrations. 

The  relaxed     methods     sometimes   in 
vogue  in  matters  of  administration  and 
the  indifference  of  the  lesses  having  over- 
264 


h 


it 


WONDERLAND 


ilsh  the  iu- 
lually  with 
via  for  pre- 
y  of  iiK'at; 
also  a  Buf- 
)t  in  proper 
to  mainliaia 
he  childixMi 
competent 
le  compaiay 
lecretnry  of 
JO  required 
as  worship, 
for  widows 
ind  iufirm, 
inhabitants 
SecretaJT  of 

1  to  be  kill- 
sixty  thou- 

were  also 
valuable  to 
so  built  up 
nufacturing 
r — England, 
iniahc^  and 
d  by  Amer- 
subjects  of 
smployed  in 

?(m  civilizfl- 
the  natural 
niKl  other 
men  ted  in 
le  practice 
>re  civiliza- 
natives  for 


of 
of 


British 
pelagic 
until  1883 
Bering  sea 
evastations 
>ple  of  the 
y  invading 
ty  and  jur- 
whetlier 
Qg  through 


oetimes  in 
ration  and 
iving  over- 


looked the  entrance  within  the  Bering  Sea 
of  one  of  these  piratical  crtift,  its  success- 
ful catch  was  a  bid  to  others.  By  1886 
these  piratical  invasions  became  a 
menace. 

The  Government  having  commenced 
operations  by  a  rigorous  enforcement  of 
the  statutes  of  the  United  States  in  refer- 
enrw  .>*  seizure  and  confiscation  by  in- 
BULi.:ion8  to  commanders  of  American 
cruisers  in  that  year  three  British  and 
some  American  craft  were  taken  in  thil 
piratical  occupation  and  condemned. 

The  United  States  authorities  now  per- 
mitted themselves  to  be  inveigled  into  a 
spun-out  dinlomiitic  correspondence,  and 
finally  in  a  treaty  signed  at  Washington  oo 
February  29th.  1892.  with  England.  This 
instrument  consists  of  a  long  rigmarole  of 
diplomatic  verbiage  in  xv  articles  provid- 
ing a  very  cumbersome  and  high-sounding 
arrangement  in  the  8hai)e  of  international 
arbitration  with  the  United  States,  Eng- 
land, France,  Italy,  Sweden  and  Norway, 
to  name  the  umpires,  in  all  seven,  the 
same  to  be  jurists  able  to  speak  the  "Eng- 
lish" language.  There  were  other  details. 
The  result  of  this  unfortunate  diplomatic 
compromise  of  an  unquestionable  and  ex- 
clusive right  and  authority  of  the  people 
of  the  United  States  over  their  own  prop- 
erty, was  the  tribunal  of  arbitration  at 
Paris,  France,  February  23d,  Auguart 
15th,  1893,  between  the  United  States  and 
Greet  Britain  which  resulted  in  a  highly 
didactic  and  compromising  array  of  five 
propositions  with  reductio  ad  absurdum 
progression  of  technicalities  and  phrasings 
and  finally  a  general  surrender  of  national 
honor  and  proprietary  right.  This  ar- 
rangement conceded  the  right  to  Great 
Britain  of  practical  exemption  from  ac- 
ceding to  these  humiliating  surrenders  ex- 
cept it  suited  her  convenience  and  required 
special  concurrence  by  that  power.  Upon 
the  United  States  it  was  obligatory. 

They  wound  up  their  labors  in  a  scheme 
of  concurrent  regulations  outside  the  jur- 
isdictional limits  of  the  respective  govern- 
ments. 

The  humiliating  proceedings  were  ''rub- 
265 


\ 


I  jl  I 


<i 


u 


OUR  ALASKAN 

bed  in"  by  the  comoession  of  a  ground  of 
claim  on  behalf  of  the  piratical  seal  poachy 
era  of  British  Columbia,  oil  of  whiidi  wtaa 
sigDied  in  Paris,  Framce,  Au^utst  15tb, 
1893. 

As  might  have  been  expected  by  anjr 
patriotic  citizen  the  piratical  operations 
of  British  subjects  have  been  continued 
aad  the  valuable  seal  life  property  of  the 
United  States  has  been  devastated  un- 
rebuked.  All  efforts  on  the  part  of  the 
United  States  to  secure  co-operation  by 
Great  Britain  and  her  assumptions  de- 
pendency have  been  a  full  fledged  farce. 
The  diplomatic  sharps  have  beaten  us  and 
all  the  fine  dinners  in  Paris  and  Washing' 
ton  have  had  the  usual  result  of  wheedling 
our  representatives  into  a  compromising 
aurrender  of  established  rights. 

This  self  same  arbitration  of  1893  re- 
sullted  in  a  convention  between  the  United 
States  and  Great  Britain,  July  8th,  1896, 
for  the  settlement  of  claims  growing  out 
of  the  legally  authorized  seizure  of  British 
piratical  craft  in  Bering  Sea,  1886-92. 
This  commission  met  at  San  Francisco, 
Gaiifomia,  and  Victoria,  British  Colum- 
bia. 

As  usual  with  all  the  rights  and  com- 
mon sense  iustice  on  their  side,  the  people 
of  the  United  States  have  again  been 
recommended  for  another  fleecing  to  the 
tune  of  i«487.000.  to  meet  the  awards  of 
this  pretty  Bering  Sea  Comniission  to 
British  sealine  caotains  seized  during 
their  piratical  onerations  in  Bering  Sea  in 
the  destruction  of  the  United  States  seal 
herds  l/om  and  grown  on  United  States 
soil,  and  the  property  of  the  people.  It 
remains  whether  Coneress  will  condone 
the  outraee  bv  annroDriatinp  the  amount 

But  more  anon  ou  such  wilful  sacrifices 
of  the  inalienable  risrhts  and  interests  of 
the  oeoole. 

The  itfomtJt  ajrreement  at  Washington 
1897  between  the  United  Str.tes,  Russia 
and  Japan  to  T>rotect  the  sealinpr  industry- 
stands  in  marked  contrast  bo  the  supercil- 
ious course  of  an  inferior  dependency, 
thus  far  calmly  submitted  to  at  Wash- 
ington. 

The  American  people  wiU  sooner  or 
266 


WONDERLAND 


a  graund  of 
.1  sead  poacb* 
f  wbiidi  wtfis 
.n^Bt  15tli, 

eted  by  anjr 
i  operationa 
in  contiimed 
iperty  of  the 
mstated  nil- 
part  of  the 
>I>erati<yn  by 
imptions  de- 
iedged  £arce. 
eaten  us  and 
nd  Washing- 
of  wheedling 
ompromising 
ts. 
of  1893  re- 
n  the  United 
ly  8th,  1896, 
growing  out 
Lre  of  Britigfli 
ea,  1886-92. 
n  Francisco, 
iitish  Ooluim- 

its  and  com- 
e,  the  people 

again  been 
ecing  to  the 
e  awards  of 
nmisfiion  to 
?ized  during 
ering  Sea  in 

States  seal 
nited  Statea 

people.  It 
vill  condone 
the  amount 
Eul  ftacrifices 

intei-este  of 

Washington 
itea,  Russia 
njj  industry 
the  saperdl- 
dependency, 
at  Wash.- 

U  sooner  or 


I 


Utier  hold  their  oflScial  servants  to  a  stem 
accountability  for  such  bumiiliMions. 

This  is  not  my  place  to  consider  these 
protracted  and  silly  negotiations.  It 
would  tally  better  with  the  spirit  of  the 
American  people  to  sink  evei'y  piratical 
vessel,  American  or  foreign,  on  sight,  and 
to  treat  those  engaged  in  this  outlawry  as 
the  common  law  of  international  rights 
and  summary  salt  water  methods  permJL 

The  sea  is  the  common  highway  of  all 
nations.  The  proiierty  of  naitionis  travers- 
ing tliese  open  waters  may  be  protected 
against  all  comers.  Tlie  herds  of  a 
United  States  farmer  upon  the  vast  plains 
of  the  West,  or  traversing  fmm  one  point 
to  another  on  the  public  highways  would 
be  under  the  pi-otection  of  law.  Any  in- 
vasion of  that  right  by  footpads  or  ene- 
mies would  be  dealt  with  by  lieroic  meas- 
ures which,  are  sometimes  paramount  to 
the  tedious  and  ineffective  operations  of 
judicial  misconstruction  of  self-evident 
property. 

It  is  oertain  if  peremptory  methods  are 
not  substituted  for  United  States  dally- 
ing with  the  "played-out"  British  dodge 
of  protracted  negotiations  the  latter  all 
the  time  "getting  in  their  work"  as  the 
saying  goes,  on  the  sui>stauitiala  at  issue, 
one  of  the  immensely  valuable  productive 
industries  of  our  Alaskan  possessions  will 
soon  bave  been  wiped  out. 

The  iuoreaised  value  of  this  industry  to 
Amerio.'»n  citizens  and  their  Govemmoiiit, 
will  have  been  observed  by  a  comparison 
of  the  .^'ost  value  realized  from  the  furs 
shipped  from  Alaska  for  122  years  under 
Russian  dominion  and  23  years  under  the 
United  Stateis.  the  latter  aggregate  being 
four  million  dollars  more  than  for  the 
five  times  !■  act^r  period. 

Also  besides  the  immensely  valuable 
sea  ott<'r  whose  ordinary  pelt  in  the  rough 
will  bring  $100  and  a  white  one  .$1,000 
each  oui-  Alaskan  Dossessions  contribute 
a  large  PT>d  valuable  supply  of  land  furs. 

The  names  and  relative  value  of  these 
may  he  realized  by  the  following  classi- 
fied list,  which  covers  tlie  entire  period 
from  the  Riiissian  discovery  year,  1745, 
to  the  United  States  cersus  year,  1890. 
267 


OUR  ALASKAN 


I  ,f 


145  yeara:  Sea  otter.  $36,365,400;  fur  seal, 
$47,005,750.  and  in  round  numbers  land 
otter,  $1,532,000;  black  foxes,  $2,471,000; 
C1-086J  foxes.  S48G.000:  red  foxes.  .'i;327,000; 
blue  foxes.  $1,289,000:  beaver,  $2,608,- 
000  and  marten  or  fiuble,  $966,000. 

These  figures  may  be  reparded  as  far 
below  the  actual  catch  and  capture  on  ac- 
count of  skins  ruined  and  abandoned  by 
imperfect  methods  of  treatment  for  pres- 
ervation, the  inducement  to  false  returns 
to  avoid  the  heavy  tax  on  furs  and  the 
encourafiremeut  to  smuffgling  and  direct 
shipments  to  Obina. 

The  official  fiirures  since  the  census  tak- 
ing of  1890  are  not  accessible  in  compiled 
form,  but  the  fur  industry,  it  is  claimed, 
has  maintained  a  fair  average  until  withr 
in  the  past  two  or  three  years,  when  the 
indiscriminate  pelasric  slaughter  of  the 
fur  seal  by  British  pirates  has  been  creat- 
ing  Kreot  hiavoo. 

The  best  market  for  Alaskan  furs 
during  the  eighteenth  and  nineteenth  cen- 
turies has  been  Europe  and  China,  to 
which  the  United  States  on  a  large  scale 
may  now  T)e  added.  Under  the  Russians 
the  Siberian  ports  of  Okhotsk.Bolsberetsk 
and  Petropovlovsk  were  the  first  marts 
of  furs  from  the  islands  and  coasts  of  the 
American  continent.  The  comparative 
cost  vnhie  of  these  skins  in  unjireiwred 
condition  in  the  best  markets  in  1880 
wore:  Sea  otter.  $100.00;  fur  seal,  $15.00; 
land  otter.  $5.00:  black  fox,  $25.00;  cross 
fox.  $2.00:  red  fox.  $1.00;  blue  fox,  $5.00; 
beaver.  $5.00.  and  marten,  $3.00. 

It  will  also  be  intei'esting  to  note  that 
the  number  of  Alaska  fur  sealskins  sold 
in  London  from  1868-90  aggregated  2,- 
411.099.  distributed  as  follows:  Salted 
Alaska  Commercial  (the  Government  conr 
tract)  Company.  1.861.052;  other  traders, 
412.254:  dried.  50.288;  dressed,  87,505. 

The  fur  seal  skins  Innded  at  Victoria, 
British  Columbia,  in  1890,  from  official 
sources  was  35.462. 

During  the  four  years.  1863-7,  preced- 
ing the  sessions  of  Conurress  in  which  the 
shoi't-sighted  unpati'iotio  pessimistic 
shouters  were  demonstrating  their  ignor- 
ance, talking  about  Alaska  as  a  barren 
waste,  icy  wilderness  and  the  like,  that 
368 


iHMfltt 


■MM 


00;  fur  seal, 
mbers  land 
$2,471,000; 
3.  $327,000; 
er,  $2,608,- 
,000. 

:cleil  as  far 
)ture  on  ac- 
audoned  by 
nt  foi'  pres- 
ilse  returns 
irs  ami  the 
and  direct 

census  tak- 
in  compiled 

is  claimed. 

until  vvith- 
i,  when  the 
Iter   of   the 

been  creat- 

skan  furs 
*teenth  cen- 
China,  to 
.  large  scale 
le  Russians 
Bolsheretsk 

first  marts 
oasts  of  the 
comparative 

unpreiwired 
fts  in  1890 
seal,  $15.00; 
25.00;  cross 
(  fox,  $5.00; 
}.00. 

0  note  that 
[ilskins  sold 
;regated  2,- 
vs:  Salted 
rnment  conr 
her  traders, 
d,  87,505. 
it  Victoria, 
rom  ofladal 

3-7,  preced- 

1  which  the 
pessimistic 

tneir  ignor- 
8  a  barren 
i  like,  that 


WONDERLAND 

very  region  produced  $3,618,717  cost  value 
of  unprepared  fuiPS,  sea  and  land,  alone. 

During  the  two  veara  1868-70,  pending 
and  immediaitely  succeeding  the  acquisi- 
tion of  the  territory,  the  output  in  these 
same  line  of  products,  was  $3,743,206,  or 
over  one  ihialf  the  whole  purchase  money. 

The  art  of  pluckine  and  dyeing  the  seal 
skin  was  invented  by  the  Chinese  fur- 
riers, and  was  reported  to  the  Okhotsk 
agents  of  the  Russian  Company  as  early 
as  1799. 

The  Enclish  demand  for  seal  skins  be- 
gan early  in  the  nineteenth  centm-y.  In 
1850  direct  shipments  to  New  York  and 
London  beeran  and  continued  at  about 
40.000  skins  a  year,  until  the  cession  of 
the  territory  to  the  Unitec'  States. 

The  darinir  Aleuts,  for  their  services 
of  la.borious  hardship  in  taking  the  ani- 
mals, received  but  20  to  30  cents  a  st-tl 
skin  for  killine  and  skinning,  while  the 
skins  in  crude  condition  realized  from 
$5  to  $20  in  the  Chinese  market. 

The  price  paid  to  the  Aleutian  hunters 
living  on  the  islands  of  St.  Paul  and  St. 
George,  under  the  terms  of  the  Govern- 
ment lease  and  their  agreement  with  the 
lessees,  ha's  been  40  cents  for  killing  and 
flklnndng  each  seal';  laiborers  receiving 
$1.00  a  dav. 

The  sea  otter  is  found  from  Japan 
Along  the  Kuriles  Kamtchatka,  the 
Aleutian  Chain,  the  Alaskan  Peninsula 
and  estuaries  and  islands  southward  as 
fair  as  Oreeon.  and  formerly  as  far  as 
the  California  Coast.  The  sagacious  pro- 
tective methods  of  the  Russian  authori- 
ties saved  this  valuable  animal  from  ex- 
tinction. This  may  be  continued  by  the 
some  wise  heroic  dealiog  with  trespa»> 
sers. 

The  land  animals  nroducing  furs  of  com- 
mercial value,  are  distributed  vea'y  gen- 
erally throughout  Continental  Alaska  and 
to_  within  the  Arctic  circle.  They  com- 
prise the  land  otter,  beaver,  brown  bear 
and  black  bear.  The  red  fox  is  found 
from  the  fightinc  parallel  of  54-40  to 
Point  Barrow,  and  to  the  last  of  the 
Aleutian  Islands.  Its  pelt  realizes  $1.00 
each.  There  is  also  the  black,  silver  and 
cross  foxes  found  in  the  mountain  fast- 
269 


I 


..I,.,  A— 


fTTT 


OUR  ALASKAN  WONDERLAND 

nesses  of  the  Coast  Ranjfe  in  Southeast- 
em  Ala^kfli  and  along  the  Yukon,  Taniania 
and  Kuskokwim  rivers  and  their  U'ibiir 
taries.  aJoane  the  shores  of  the  sounds  and 
on  the  islands  of  the  coast  and  the  Aleu- 
tian Chiain.  The  pek  of  the  black  or  sdl- 
ver  fox  realizes  fi'om  $10  to  $15,  and 
often  nearer  the  coast  $40  to  $50  in  coin 
for  a  sinsrle  skini. 

The  skins  of  the  silver  fox  forms  a  lu- 
crative trade  in  the  Yukon  Valley.  The 
Arctic,  or  blue  and  white  foxes,  are  found 
north  of  the  Kuskokwim. 

They  are  veiT  numerous.  Their  skins 
aire  larsrelv  used  by  the  Eskimo-Ameri- 
canB  for  clothSne:.  The  mink  and  marten 
are  also  widely  distributed,  their  limit 
generally  beins  the  artas  of  standing  tim- 
ber. The  pelt  of  the  marten  or  sable,  a 
corruption  of  sobal.  the  Russian  word 
for  marten,  since  the  transfer  of  the  ter- 
ritoTA'  through  the  freaks  of  fashion,  has 
gone  up  in  first  price  from^  10  cents  to  $6. 
mi  price. 

The  other  fur  animaJiS,  polar  bear, 
lynx,  wolves,  erey  and  white,  muskrats, 
rabbits,  marmots'  and  wolverines  are 
largely  used  for  food  and  clothing  by  the 
natives. 

In  1889  the  value  of  the  fur  seal  pelts 
was  $1,077,478.  reiwesenting  102,617 
skins;  1890,  $267,750,  representing  21,- 
000;  1891,  $217,408,  representing  13,588 
ekins;  1892,  $107,537,  representing  7,175 
skins,  and  sea  otter  pelts  $2,220,  repre- 
esenting  18  skins. 

It  is  thrilling  to  contemplate  the  hero- 
ism, darinur.  hlairdship.  exposure  and  sac- 
rifice of  health  and  life  associated  with 
this  widely  snread  industry.  The  folk- 
lore of  the  natives  hianded  down  on  inscrib- 
ed ivory  tablets.and  oral  tales  recount  the 
deeds  on  sea  and  land  which  attended  the 
purauit  and  oaiotuire  of  these  valuable 
denizens  of  the  depths  of  waters  and  of 
the  solitudes  of  forests. 


270 


AND 


n  Southeast- 
kon,  Tamana 
their  ti'ibur 
.  sounds  and 
id  the  Aleu- 
black  OT  sdl- 
to  $15,  and 
►  $50  in  coin 

forms  a  lur 
t^alley.  Thie 
js,  are  found 

Their  skins 
kimo-Ameri- 

and  marten 
their  limit 
itandin^  tim- 
L  or  sable,  a 
jissian  word 
r  of  the  ter- 
fashion,  has 

cents  to  $6. 

[K)Iar  bear, 
e,  muskrats, 
verines  are 
thing  by  the 

or  seal  pelta 
ng  102,617 
isenting  21,- 
ating  13,588 
enting  7,175 
2,220,  repre- 

te  the  hero- 
lire  and  sac- 
jiciated  with 
The  folk- 
n  on  inscrib- 
recount  the 
attended  the 
'se  valuable 
iters  and  of 


:  ; 

■ 


Our  Alaskan  Iquarium 


LETTER  NUMBER  XXIV. 


One  Half  the  Salmon  Pack  of  the 

World  From  Our  Alaskan 

Waters. 


Wealth  of  Salt  and  Fresh  Water 
Products  Computed  by  Millions. 


A  imali  Storjr  Founded  on  Flgmvcs. 


To  hiave  entered  a  bill  of  partieulaps 
in  reply  to  the  croakers  of  the  Fortieth 
Oongreea  that  within  a  qnarter  of  a  cen- 
tury their  i>arliamentary  "statistics" 
would  receive  "official"  repudiation  iu 
the  development  of  wealth  in  Ala»ka 
waters  would  not  have  been  more  than 
was  said  in  a  prophetie  way  by  the  pa- 
triotic champions  of  the  payment  of  the 
purchase  money  for  the  valuable  territory 
brought  under  the  jurisdiction  of  tie  Unit- 
ed States  by  its  greatest  of  up-to-date  di- 
plomats and  statesmen^  WiUiam  H.  Sew- 
ard. 

I  have  spoken  of  "si>ot  cash"  milliona 
in  furs.  I  shall  now  give  a  few  figures 
on  fish,  in  which  dollars  are  again  count- 
ed by  millions. 

The  va'ue  of  the  fisheries  of  Alaska 
were  known  from  Russian  aod  native 
sources  years  before  the  croakers  of  Con- 
gress expended  their  loquadfy  in  efforts 
to  mislead  the  better  sentiment  of  their 
273 


I. 


T 


i       I 


.1  leading  faotor 
Jommonwealths 
!S  of  the  Pacific 


rl 


OUR  ALASKAN 

aasooiateA,  their  constituen'ts  and  the  peo- 
ple, by  ignoramce  or  misrepresentation. 

In  1892,   from  the  carefully  gathered 
and  compiled  statistics  ^--r  United  States 
specialists  we  find  Alas 
with  our  occidental  coa 
in  the  commercial  fish\. 
Ooa«t  and  waters. 

This  branch  of  Alaskan  indoBtry  hiad 
its  birth  near  Sitka  in  1878.  The  follow- 
ing year  the  attempt  was  renewed  at 
Klawak,  on  Prince  of  Wales  Island,  amid 
was  a  success. 

The  honor  of  first  bringing  to  official  no- 
tice the  amazi'Bg  fishery  resources  of  th« 
"icy  wilderness"  of  A'a^ska  is  due  to  Dr. 
Tarleton  H.  Bean,  of  the  Unitfe'l  States 
Fish  Oommission,  in  1880. 

Mr.  Bean's  report  seemed  to  the  singn- 
larly  slow-minded  public  odm  Alaskan  af- 
fairs as  incredulouis  as  the  accounts 
which  wpre  carried  to  Euroi)e  two  and  a 
half  cenituriea  before  of  the  fish  ofE  our 
New  England  coast. 

These  ofl^cia!  reports,  were,  however, 
soon  verified  by  the  enterprising  spirit  of 
OUT  fellow-citizens  of  the  Pacific  coast. 

It  will  cause  sairprise  to  know  that  in 
the  value  of  plant  and  cash'  capital  em- 
ployed in  the  fisheries  of  the  Pacific  coast 
of  the  United  States  Alaska  leads  the 
list. 

In  1892,  not  the  best  year,  the  official 
figures  showed  totals  of  value  of  shore 
property,  vessels  arid  apparatus  and  cash 
capital.  Alaska,  $2,609,650:  California. 
$2,526,746;  Oregon,  $2,272,351,  and 
Washington,  $1,593,567. 

In  persons  engaged  in  this  industry  in 
1892,  while  Oalifornia  led.  in  vessel  fisher- 
men, Washington  in  shore  or  boat  fisher- 
men, and  Oregon  in  factory  hands,  our 
Alaskan  pearl  of  Pacific  waters  led  in  the 
number  of  «flioresmen  when  all  iba  can- 
neries were  in  operation. 

In  1891,  the  highest  number  of  persons 
employed  in  Alaska  ini  vessel  aiid  shore 
fififlieries  and  canneries  was  4,947. 

In  the  same  year  the  value  ofp'ant  and 
cash  capital  aggregated  $4,185,825. 

The  aggregate  investment  in  the  fisher- 
ies of  Alaska  was  greater  than  any  of  the 

274 


-35^ 


wonderla:sd 


id  the  peo- 
sntation. 

gathered 
ted  States 
ling  faotxnr 
onwea'itha 
he  Pacific 

ustry  hiad 
Tie  follow- 
aewed  at 
jland,  amd 

official  no- 
ces  of  the 
lue  to  Dr. 

la.' I  States 

the  singii- 
laskan  af- 
■  acoonnts 
rwo  and  a 
jh  off  our 

howeTer, 
?  spirit  of 
ic  coast, 
w  that  in 
ipitaJ  em- 
^fie  coiast 

leads  the 

he  officiaJ 
of  shore 
I  and  cash 
California, 
351,     and 

id  ustry  in 
ispl  fisher- 
oat  fisher- 
ands,  our 
led  in  the 
1  its  can- 

)f  peTsona 

iwid  shore 

7. 

p'ant  and 

25. 

bhe  fisher- 

my  of  the 


Americaa  Pacific  Omwnonwealths,  owinsr 
to  the  relatively  expensive  canneries  lo- 
cated there. 

If  the  strange  diplomacy  wihich  has  been 
permitted  to  pass  on  the  fur  seal  piracy 
condoned  by  the  Britiiah  govemment  in 
behalf  of  a  dependency  is  allowed  to  con- 
tinue the  valuable  industry  of  the  Pribilof 
Islands  wi'l'  speedily  take  a  second  rank. 

Within  ten  years,  1890,  the  salmon  pack 
alone  of  Alaska  was  mot  only  one-half  that 
of  the  United  States,  but  nearly  one-haJf 
that  of  the  whole  world. 

The  canning  industry  may  a'so  be  thus 
summarized  for  1892,  Calif omia  led  in 
the  number  of  persons  employed,  1,510, 
with  Alaska  a  close  seconid.  1,399;  Wash- 
ington, 851,  and  Oregon,  222.  The  same 
re'.ation  existed  in  the  number  of  can- 
neries and  ralue.  In  cash  capital  Alaska 
was  far  in  advance.  $1,067,500.  with  Ore- 
gon a  close  second,  $835,000;  Washing- 
toin  a  distant  third  and  golden  OaMfomia 
$40,000,  barely  recognizable  in  the  race. 
Total  investment,  Alaska,  again  in  ad- 
vance, $1,560,900,  with  Oregon  pressing 
dose  up,  $1,433,000;  Washington,  not  a 
close  second,  $889,750,  and  Oalifomia, 
$135,000. 

These  figures  would  be  even  larger  but 
for  the  wastefu'  methods  of  canning,  us- 
ing but  the  choicest  part  of  the  fish  and 
discarding  large  qnantities  of  product 
which,  outside  of  Alaska,  would  be  util- 
ized. 

Also  the  quantities  consumed  by  the 
employes  and  natives  would  add  largely 
to  the  aggregate. 

The  hig'h  water  mark  of  salmon  canning 
in  1891,  causing  a  glut,  will  account  for 
the  reduced  returns  of  the  pack  of  1892. 
The  pooling  of  the  interests  of  the  firms 
and  closing  in  1892  of  18  out  of  the  33 
canneries  of  1891  in  Alaska,  restored  the 
equilibrium'  of  demand  and  snpply.  In 
1896  there  were  29  canneries  and  14 
salteries  in  operation. 

The  bneat  Alaskan  canning  salmon  are 
the  red-meated  fish,  averaging  7  pounds, 
and  the  Ohinook  or  king  salmon,  averag- 
ing 30  pounds  each.    A  case  contains  48 

275 


t'l 


f.  <} 


^^ 


V  }' 


OVR  ALABKAH 

one-pound  cans.    Th^ere  aire  alBo  five  other 
varieties  of  salmon. 

The  salting  of  saJmon  is  also  enormoue. 
The  salteries  in  1893  consumed  5,871,000 
pounds  of  raw  material  in  the  production 
of  19,572  barrels  of  ^t  &elh  worth  $156,- 
576. 

This  branch  of  the  aalmon  industry  also 
hud  a  valuation  of  plant  and  cash  capital 
in  1891  amounting  to  $3,734,403.  The  in- 
dustry is  conducted  largely  by  steamers, 
but  ships  of  over  1,000  tonnia^e  are  also 
employed. 

The  coast  of  Alaska  is  one  of  the  bettrt 
in  the  world  for  the  spawning  and  growtJi 
of  salmon.  The  estuaries  along  the  coa0t 
leading  into  swift  runnin>g  streams  fed 
by  large  fountain  lakes  answer  to  perfeo- 
tion  the  habits  of  tMs  toothsome  repre- 
sentative of  the  finny  creatures. 

The  relentless  destruction  of  the  soiurces 
of  salimon  supply  in  Alaskaji  waters  led 
Congress  by  an  act,  March  2d,  1889,  to 
prohibit,  under  penaHlty  of  not  less  thAa 
$250  a  day,  tbe  erecting  of  dams,  baril- 
oades  or  other  methods  of  preventing  the 
(Ntlmon  ascending  streams.  As  this  law 
was  a  failure.  Confess  enacted  a  more 
stringeoit  one,  which  was  approved  June 
6th,  1896,  with  inspectors  to  see  that  its 
protective  provisions  were  carried  out. 
Many  of  the  smaller  red  salmon  streams 
had  been  rendered  unprofitable  by  the  de- 
structive methods  used. 

In  1896  the  pack  reac9ied  949,641  cases, 
with  four  dozen  one-pound  cans  to  the 
case,  and  9,314  borreis  of  ealted  salmon 
aggregating  in  v«Jue  $2,383,757.  emptoy- 
ing  5,600  men.  The  weight  of  the  fish  as 
taken  from  the  water  was  69,270,000 
pounds. 

There  were  two  Grovemment  hatcheries, 
at  Karluk  and  Eto'.ine,  where  respective- 
ly 5,500,000  and  2,000,000  eggs  were  se- 
cured. 

It  is  due  to  some  of  our  fellow  citizens, 
at  least,  who  have  embarked  their  capital 
in  these  enterprises,  to  say  that  seeing  the 
necessity  of  maintaining  the  supply  ,  are 
establishing  hatcheries  at  suitable  points 
in  hopes  of  returning  to  th.^  waters  as 

276 


WONDERLAyO 


>  five  otfaer 

enormous. 
1  5,871,000 
production 
orth  $156,- 

dustry  blao 
aah  capital 
3,  The  in- 
steamers, 
;e  are  alao 

yf  the  best 
Lnd  growth 
?  the  coast 
Teams  fed 
to  perfec 
ome  repre- 

the  sources 
waters  led 
a,  1889,  to 
:  less  than 
imsi,  barri- 
renting  the 
s  this  law 
ed  a  more 
foved  June 
lee  that  its 
;arried  ouit 
on  streams 
by  the  de- 

>,641  cases, 
ana  to  the 
ted  salmon 
>7,  emplby- 
the  fish  as 
69,270,000 

hatcheries, 
respective- 
;s  were  ee- 

w  citizens, 
leir  capital 
:  seeing  the 
apply  ,  are 
ible  points 
waters  as 


much  young  fish  life  aa  they  take  out  in 
a  matured  state. 

The  United  States  Fish  Oommiaalon  is 
also  doing  its  share  in  the  imi>ortant 
work  of  fish  liatching  in  these  splendid 
Alaskan  watera 

Next  to  the  salmon  the  cod  industry 
takes  rank  in  Alaskan  fisheries.  Since 
the  beginning  in  1865,  during  ttie  Russian 
rule,  the  total  number  of  fish  taken  is 
25,723,300,  representing  $12,861,650  in 
value. 

In  1890  the  catch  was  1,138,000  fish, 
valued  at  $569,000. 

It  should  also  be  daid  that  the  San 
Francisco  cod  fishing  firms  take  their  sup- 
ply from  the  Alaskan  banks.  These  fig- 
ures rightfully  belong  to  Alaska.  These 
totals  would  not  onily  have  placed  AJ'aska 
in  Ihe  lead,  but  also  with  double  the 
values.  The  State  of  Washington  also 
derived  her  figures  from  the  same  source, 
so  that  really  there  is  little  or  no  cod  in- 
dustry on  the  Pacific  coast  except  what 
is  derived  from  the  valuable  banks  of  the 
Alaskan  Peninsula  and  our  Aleutian 
Islands. 

About  midway  in  the  glacial  front  of  the 
St  Elias  range,  between  Cross  Sound  and 
Yakutat  Bay,  about  50  miles  off  shore 
may  be  seen  upon  the  oflBcial  charts  the 
commencement  of  what  is  known  to  navi- 
gators as  the  100-fathom  curve. 

This  line  at  varying  distances  from  50 
to  150  miles  off  shore  follows  the  western 
and  southern  coasts  of  the  mainland,  the 
Kenai  and  Alaska  Peninsulas  and  the 
Aleutian  chain.  After  rounding  The  west- 
em  end  of  Umnak  and  returning  along 
the  north  shores  of  the  same  islands  as  far 
as  Unimak  Pass  in  the  Aleutian  chain,  it 
strikes  northwesterly  across  Bering  Sea 
until  it  curves  coastwise  southwardly 
along  the  Asiatic  continent  off  the  Siber- 
ian Oape  Navarin. 

Within  this  curve  shoreward  the  depth 
of  waters  never  exceeding  100  fathoms  or 
600  feet  lie  the  valuable  submarine  banki 
or  plateaus,  which  constitute  the  favorite 
resort  of  the  cod  and  the  fishing 
grounds  which  add  so  largely  to  this 
branch  of  Alaskan  industry  and  also  the 
277 


■Mi 

'at 


OUR  ALASKAN 


i<  \'. 


i  ( 


United  States  fur  seal     rookeries  of  the 
PribUof  Iftlands. 

From  the  starting  point  off  tb«  Alaskan 
shore  to  the  Silieriun  coast  this  Kae 
traverses  40  dejfrees  of  longitude  and  of- 
ter  deeceuding  from  latitude  59  to  nearly 
52  ascends  to  nearly  62  degrees  nortib, 
making  a  southerly  and  northerly  sweep 
of  17  degrees  of  latitude. 

The  New  Foundland  and  New  England 
banks  so  famous  in  the  history  of  the  fil- 
ing industries  of  the  world  at  the  time  of 
the  discovery  and  exxJoration  of  the 
northwestern  shores  of  the  Atlantic  are 
the  merest  submarine  sandbnjs  compared 
with  the  scope  of  the  fishing  banks  off 
the  mainland  and  islands  of  Alaska. 

In  1896  the  Aiaskan  lieri'iii.ii  fih-hcrH's  at 
Killisnoo  on  tlie  Admiralty  shore  of  Chat- 
hajn  Strait,  including  salting  and  the 
mannfncture  of  oil.  footed  up  2i'),750  bar- 
rels. 90.650  irallons  of  oil,  55(  tons,  of 
guano,  i-enresentine  a  total  value  of  $35,- 
000.  These  sanie  operators,  with  an  in- 
crensing  ronrket.  DTOa>ose  an  output  of 
200.000  eailons  of  oil  and  1.200  tons  of 
•gxiano.  The  liieb  water  mark  of  1892 
yielded  500  half  and  1.000  whole  barrels 
of  salt  heorinie.  316.000  gallons  of  oil  and 
700  tons  of  eruano.  The  oil  sold  at  25  to 
30  cents  a  Ballon,  realizing  $85,000,  and 
fertilizer  at  $30  a  ton.  or  .$21,000. 

The  Alaskan  herring  appear  in  the  still 
waters  of  the  bavs  and  inlets  by  millions 
from  Aujrust  to  September.  It  is  rich  in 
oil  and  finelv  flavored.  Besides  being  a 
food  and  oil  fish,  it  is  largely  used  as  bait 
for  halibut  aind  othler  large  fish.  The  na- 
tives Uise  quantities  for  food. 

The  Atka  oi*  Alaskan  mackerel  is  one 
of  the  best  of  the  Alaska  food  fishes.  Its 
favorite  resort,  although  found  in  other 
Alaskan  waters,  is  in  the  vicinity  of  Atka 
and  at  the  extreme  island  limit  of  United 
States  Aleutian  inri«wliction.  The  nrirae 
quality  of  this  fish  yields  about  $20  a 
barrel. 

The  halibut  is  common  to  all  the  coast 
waters  of  Alaska.  They  range  from  15 
to  250  Dounds  in  size  and  are  particularly 
niumertma  near  Sitka  and  are  largely 
caught  bv  the  natives. 
278 


.^' 


WONDERLAND 


ries  of  the 


The  river  fi«h.  the  white  fish,  losh  and 
graylin,<rs  of  the  Yukon,  are  used  more  by 
the  natives  iu  those  regions  than  siilmon. 

In  Southea«tern  Alaska  black  bass  are 
abundant.  The  trout  ajul  pike  are  found 
in  nimost  all  tiie  rivers  of  Alaska  south 
of  the  Arctic  circle. 

The  Alaska  wliale  fisliinp  in  1891  pro- 
duced 12.228  barrels  of  oil.  180,250  pounds 
of  bone  and  1.000  oounds  of  ivoij.  The 
hifrh  waiter  mark  for  oil  was  37,2(50  bar- 
rels in  1886:  for  bone  504,802  ix>un(l«  in 
1887,  and  for  ivory  74.000  pounds  in  1877. 

The  atrjrrecate  output,  1874-90,  was 
f^00,030  baii-relf*  of  oil,  $2.8.-vi,357;  402.- 
43  pounds  of  bone,  $8,204,0(57;  4,284,395 
pounds  of  ivorv.  $147,047,  making  a  to- 
tal of  $11,204,465.  It  was  during  the 
governorshin  of  Wolwodsky,  1848.  that 
the  United  States  whaling  interests  began 
in  these  waters.  An  American  whaler, 
Captain  Ravs.  having  passed  into  the 
Arctic  Ocean,  was  so  successful  in  his 
venture  that  the  snread  of  the  newis  along 
the  New  England  co.a8t  sent  about  14() 
American  whalers  into  that  same  sea 
within  the  vear  following. 

In  the  total  of  mairket  fish  ndigeneoua 
to  Alaskan  waters.  1892,  Alaska  furnish- 
ed cod  2.219.835  pounds,  value  $55,562; 
California  2.274.565  pounds,  value  $56,- 
8(J4;  Oregon  none,  and  Washington  about 
one-fourth  the  Alaskan  amount. 

Herring— Alaska  18.700,000  pounds, 
value      $32,900:      California      4,486,887 

Wunds,  vali.e  $55,796;  Oregon  none,  and 
ashington  about  one-thirtieth  the  yield 
of  Alaska. 

Salmon— Alaska  42.231,500  pounds, 
value  $1,219,973:  California  4.862.408 
pounds,  value  $179.aSl;  Oregon  25,.563,- 
701  pounds,  value  $781,000;  Washington 
21.684,211  pounds,  valine  $5i>1. 546. 

The  valuation  of  the  tin  plate  used  in 
canning  was  ,$311,454,  which  paid  $93,- 
456  duty  and  wouJd  have  paid  $116,700 
under  the  act  of  1897. 

The  registered  tonnage  of  steam  and 
other  veaseLs  emnloved  is  37..S9S. 

A  single  association  expended  $103,804 
for  boxes  and  labor  performed  by  white 
and  native  residents  of  the  territory. 

379 


fl 


TT! 


GOLD!  GOLD! 


V 


Dl 


i|*, 


1 


OurAlaskan  Wonderland 


Y.r 


mm 


LETTER  NUMBER  XXV. 


What  the  Lifting  Veil  of  an  Arc- 
tic Winter  Revealed. 


Alaska  Not  Overshadowed,  but  Ex- 
panded by  the  Lnck  of  Klondike. 


Ck>al,  Copper,  Platiumn,  Iron,  Lead,  Au« 

tlimouy.    Marble,    Petrolenm    and 

Maybe  Jema   Stoied  In   Onr 

Distant  Treaaare  LAnd. 


The  ring  of  Klondike  gold  rekindJed  in 
tlie  United  States  and  the  rest  of  the 
world  a  degree  of  enthusiasm  rivaling  in 
ftrvor  the  greeting  wIMch  met  the  as- 
tounding disoovery  of  aurifei-ous  wealth 
in  California  precisely  one-half  century 
before.  The  revelations  of  the  future  are 
not  only  impatiently  awaited,  but  on  the 
faith  of  the  wonderful  stories  which  have 
been  told,  an  army  of  men  and  women 
from  every  section  of  our  broad  land  are 
bending  th'edr  steps  toward  the  new  re- 
gions of  glittering  wealth  in  sub-arctic  lat- 
itudes. 

The  pioneer  steamer  Excelsior,  which 
arrived  at  San  Francisco  on  June  15th, 
1897,  by  the  substantial  evidence  of  $2,- 
000,000  value  of  sihining  gold  verified  the 
rumors  which  had  been  wafted  down  the 
coast  of  fabulous  new  discoveries  of  the 
precious  metal  on  the  upper  Yukon. 

On  the  very  crest  of  this  first  wave  of 

281 


;.(    i 


r\U 


I 


VII; 


OVR  ALASKAN 

excitement  whlich  swept  across  the  United 
States  and  beyond  the  Atlantic,  followed 
a  month  later  the  arrival  of  another  treas- 
ure ship  from  AJaiska,  at  Seattle,  the  Port- 
land, with  nearly  a  million  and  a  half 
more  of  the  yellow  metal  in  masses  fi-ora 
dust  to  nuggets  from  pin  headis  to  hen's 
egga 

The  scene  at  the  moorings  of  those 
Alaskan,  and  Klondike  gold  laden  craft 
was  oaleulated  to  arouse  the  world. 

The  weather-beaten  arctic  seasoned 
hieroes  of  golden  Hands  staggering  dowiw 
the  gang'ways  from  the  decks  of  the 
steiamers  to  terra-firma  under  the  burden 
of  their  glittering  haiTest  waa  pictured  on 
the  swift  wings  of  electricity  to  the  utter- 
most parts  of  the  earth. 

Thisi  wias  the  thrilling  sequel  to  the 
drama  which  bad  been  played  so  com- 
pletely behind  the  impenetrable  veil  of  an 
arctic  winter. 

While  goil'd  discoveries  are  not  solely  an 
occurrence  of  modem  times,  the  most 
valuiable  known  fields  have  eome  to  light 
in  recent  years.  The  earliest  of  the  an- 
cients of  history  used  gold  according  to  ac- 
counts, in.  falnilou'S  quantities.  We  are 
told  that  in  the  time  of  Herodotus  nearly 
five  centuries  before  Christ,  the  ratio  be- 
tween silver  and  gold  was  ton  to  one. 
Almost  twenty-four  centuries  after  the 
people  of  a  great  republic  repudiated  16 
to  1. 

The  presence  of  gold  in  commercial 
quantities  exists  in  many  parts  of  the 
world,  but  the  great  centers  of  production 
during  the  latter  part  of  the  Nineteenth 
century  have  been  O'alifomia.  1847;  Aus- 
tralia, 1851;  South  Africa,  1868;  Alaska, 
1873;  Klondike,   1897. 

This  latest  discoveiT^  which  so  electrified 
the  world  was  but  another  step  in  the 
growing  cumulative  product  of  gold  in  the 
remote  regions  of  the  uppiU'  Yukon. 

During  the  census  decade  1880  to  1890, 
the  Alaskan  fields  contributed  $4,004,500 
value  of  gold  and  $27,340  of  silver  to  the 
stock  of  the  world. 

An  enormous  wealtli  of  gold  in  Alaska 
has  Iwen  a  fixed  fact  for  many  yearn,  but 


M- 


WONDiniLAKD 


tie  United 
LC,  followed 
otber  treas- 
e,  the  Port-  . 
and  a  half 
lasses  from 
da  to  heu's 

?9  of  these 
laden  ci-aft 
world. 
J  seasoned 
ering  dowi^ 
ks  of  the 
the  burden 
1  pictured  on 
to  the  utter- 

■quel  to  the 
^ed  so  coBi- 
le  veil  of  an 

lot  solely  an 
s,  the  most 
ome  to  light 
t  of  the  an- 
ording  to  ac- 
?s.  We  are 
dotus  nearly 
the  ratio  be- 
teu  to  one. 
s  after  the 
jpudiated  16 

commercial 
narta  of  the 
f  production 
V  Nineteenth 

1847;  AuH- 
868;  Alaska. 

so  electrified 
step  in  the 
»f  gold  in  the 
'ukon. 

.880  to  1890, 
d  .$4,004,500 
silver  to  the 

Id  in  Alaska 
ly  years,  but 


the  magnetic  iwwcr  of  more  roc^-ntly 
found  "poor  man's"  placer  mines  of  fabu- 
lou'!»  richness  on  Birch  and  other  streams 
within  United  States  and  on  the  Klondike 
and  tributaries  of  the  Yukon  within 
British  jurisdiction  has  given  an  incentive 
to  a  rush  which  may  astound  the  world. 

The  first  "show  of  color"  officially  le- 
portod  from  Alaska  was  in  1873,  in  a  guld- 
bearing  quartz  vein  on  Slate  Creek,  two 
miles  from  its  mouth,  on  Silver  Bay,  10 
miles  northeast  of  Sitka.  In  1879  a  10- 
stamp  steam  water  power  mill  was  built, 
but  in.  1880  suspended.  The  claim  was  re- 
located in  1883.  In  1880  another  com- 
pany began  working  in  the  siame  district. 

The  oiKcers  a-^J  men  of  the  United 
States  army  nu'  ed  with  the  civilians  in 
their  interest  in  ihe  gold  deveJopraenfcs  of 
the  Allaskan  coast.  Many  of  the  men  in 
the  ranks  had  had  experience  in  the  mines 
of  California  and  Nevada. 

An  instance  is  mentioned  of  two  privato 
soldiers  of  the  Sitka  garrison  in  1873  hav- 
ing seen  some  of  the  samples  brought 
back  from  the  Silver  Bay  region,  obtained 
a  few  days  leave  of  absence,  visited  thfe 
ledge  and  by  means  of  two  blasts  return- 
ed with  .$300  worth  of  fine  gold  quartz 
specimens. 

Further  investigations  established  the 
"show  of  color"  in  sufiieient  commercial 
quantities  to  entitle  the  event  to  the  rank 
of  the  first  real  discovery  of  the  yellow 
metal  in  Alaska. 

The  work  of  prospecting  in  this  region 
continued  with  favorable  results  until 
January  30th,  1877,  when  the  Alaska 
Gold  and  Silver  Mining  Company,  the 
first  in  this  Alaskan  indxrstry,  was  incor- 
l)orated  at  Portland,  Oregon. 

Tlie  work  of  development  began  with  a 
ten-stamp  mill  in  1879.  The  next  year 
however,  owing  to  mismanagement,  these 
works  were  closed. 

This  turn  in  affairs  led  to  even  more  ex- 
tensive prospecting  tours  in  1880,  the 
most  famous  of  which  were  made  by 
.Joseph  Juneau  and  Richard  T.  Harris. 
These  men  were  outfitted  by  parties  inter- 
ested in  the  suspended  mine.  They  start- 
283 


f 


OUlt  ALASKAN 


M 


\ 


cd  from  Sitka  in  a  canoe  in  the  direction 
of  Taku  River.  The  same  autumn  run- 
ning out  of  provisions  they  returned  with 
150  pounds  of  sample  gold  quartz  of  great 
richness  and  13>^rainis  of  dust. 

The  stampede  which  followed  to  the  "re- 
gions." was  unprecedented  in  the  annals 
of  quaint  Sitka.  Every  variety  of  craft 
from  a  canoe  to  a  steamer  was  impressed 
into  the  service  of  the  wild  "nish." 

The  pioneers  Juneau  and  Harris,  fol- 
lowed by  a  motley  crowd  of  toughs  and 
"tendei'feet,"  struck  out  again  for  the 
golden  shores  of  the  Taku.  The  graveJs 
on  the  mountain  8ilop«s  ran  15  to  30  cents 
of  "color"  to  the  pan,  Jimeau  and  his 
companion  gave  shape*  to  their  operations 
by  locating  the  Silver  Bow  Basin  district. 
At  the  same  time  they  staked  off  their 
choice  of  placer  ground  and  18  quartz 
claims.  Having  organized  the  Silver 
Bow  Basin  mining  district  they  adopted 
local  rules  for  Its  government  and  marked 
out  a  "city"  at  the  mouth  of  Gold  Creek. 
This  infant  metropolis  they  named  "Har- 
ri'sburg,  after  Harris,  Juneau's  prospect- 
ing companion. 

The  shipment  of  a  cargo  of  9G0  pounds 
of  quartz  realizing  $14,000  back  to  Sitka 
added  to  the  excitement. 

Against  tlie  rigors  of  the  approaching 
winter,  1880-1,  the  motley  gathering  of 
miners  and  prospectors  built  cabins  on  the 
town  site.  General  merchandise  stores 
were  opened  and  saloons,  dancing  shan- 
ties and  gaming  haunts  sprung  into  life 
with  mushroom  growth. 

At  the  same  time  the  population  kept 
growing  by  contributions  from  other 
Alaskan  centers  of  human  habitation  and 
over  the  border  from  British  Columbia. 

Their  "city"  was  renamed  Rockwell  af- 
ter the  executive  officer  of  the  Jamestown, 
the  United  States  vessel  in  Alaskan 
waters.  Finally  a  miners'  meeting, 
May,  1882,  fixed  upon  Juneau,  whidi 
name  stuck,  and  to-day  localizes  the  most 
go  ahead  up-to-date  community  in  Alaska, 
and  possibly  the  fourth  of  the  United 
States  oitiea  of  the  Pacific  coast  of  the 
future. 

284 


WOSnERLA:SD 


u 


le  direction 
itmun  run- 
urned  with 
rtz  of  great 

a  tothe"re- 
the  annals 
ty  of  craft 
3  impressed 
■usb." 

aarris,  fol- 
toughs  and 
in  for  the 
Phe  gravels 
to  30  cents 
au  and  his 
•  operations 
sin  district, 
id  off  their 
18  quartz 
the  Silver 
ley  adopted 
aud  marked 
Sold  Creek, 
imed  "Har^ 
's  prospect- 

960  pounds 
ick  to  Sitka 

approaching 
athering  of 
abins  on  the 
idise  store* 
ncing  shan- 
n^g  into  life 

alation  kept 
from  other 
bitation  and 
Columbia, 
iockwell  af- 
Jamestown, 
n  Alaskan 
i'  meeting, 
leau,  which 
ses  the  most 
y  in  Alaska, 
the  United 
:oast  of  the 


It  was  facetiously  mid  by  tbe  camp  wag 
of  Juneau  during  the  first  winter  that  the 
miners  liT<?d  on  "snow  balls  aud  pepper."' 

In  1881  quantities  of  gold  was  panned 
and  prospecting  went  on  with  increased 
vigor. 

On  Douglas  Island,  opiwsite  Juneau, 
much  goJd  was  found  on  the  beach. 

In  May  of  that  year  John  TreadweH,  of 
San  Francisco,  acquired  a  number  of  lo- 
cations which  grew  into  the  celebrated 
Alaska  Treadwell  Gold  Mining  Company, 
organized  in  1890,  with  a  capital  of  $5.- 
000,000  a  stamp  mill  and  a  most  com- 
plete equipment.  To-day  this  plant 
stands  without  a  rival  in  any  mining  re- 
gion in  the  world.  The  vein  is  400  feet 
wide,  bearing  free  gold  and  pyrites. 

This  pioneer  entei-prise  gave  character 
and  permanancy  to  gold  mining,  not  only 
in  Alaska,  but  stimulated  prospecting  in 
the  regions  beyond  the  confines  oi  the 
United  States  dominion.  The  never  end- 
ing thump  of  the  dropping  stamps  crush- 
ing the  valuable  quartz  and  the  fires  of 
cblorination  waken  up  the  solitudes  of 
that  region  of  recent  solitude  with  the 
sound  of  industry. 

Some  idea  of  tlie  possibilities  of  Alas- 
kan gold  mining  may  be  had  from  the 
"official"  story  of  the  Treadwell  opera- 
tions for  the  year  1895-6.  Th«  amoamt 
of  ore  mined  was  203,670  tons.  Tlie 
profit  for  the  year  in  gold  applicable  to 
dividends  was  $497,342,  the  net  cost  i>er 
ton  being  $1.08,  the  methods  applied  be- 
ing concentration,  roasting  and  chioriua- 
tion. 

The  product  of  this  mine  from  its  open- 
ing, 1882  to  1891  was  $3,109,164.  Tlie 
yield  per  ton,  was  $3.70  and  operating 
profits  $1,493,208. 

That  the  outlook  continues  favorable 
may  be  judged  by  the  erection  of  a  pro- 
posed mill  of  twice  the  present  capacity. 

Another  mine  in  the  siame  locality 
known  as  the  Alaska  Mexican  Gold  Min- 
ing Company,  under  the  same  manage- 
ment, has  also  produced  wonderful  re- 
sults. 

This  mill  crushed  101,702  tons  of  ore  or 
285 


I 
i 

m 

ilV  ?lf 


r 


OVR  ALASKAN 


ih 


l\ 


3.57  tous  iM^r  stamp  per  dfiJ'  of  24  hoars, 
at  a  cost  of  $0.3491  i>er  ton. 

Tlieee  somewhat  diy  details,  to  the  lay- 
man will  show  to  what  extent  the  me- 
chanical prodiiotion  of  gold  is  already 
under  way  in  our  Alaskan  Wonderland. 
It  will,  as  now  foreseen,  remain  one  of 
its  permanent  and  profitable  in<^usti-ies, 
whatever  may  be  the  outcome  of  the 
placer  opoTatioUkS  on  the  Yukon. 

The  Beriiers  Bay  JJininp  and  Milling 
Company  on  Lynn  Canal,  55  miles  above 
Juneau,  at  a  town  nanietl  Sywaixl,  after 
tlie  great  Secretary,  incorporateil  in  189G, 
is  conducting  woiik  on  a  large  scale. 

The  entire  region  within  an  extended 
radius  of  Juneau,  is  already  well  stocked 
with  gold  quartz  mining  €nteii>rises. 

In  the  distribution  of  the  work  of  the 
Uniited  Staites  Geological  Survey  for  1895- 
0.  investigation  was  made  of  the  gold  de- 
)>osits  an<l  the  coal  resources  near  the 
shore  line  and  on  the  islands  of  South- 
eastern Alaska. 

The  examinationis  in  the  vicinity  of 
Juneau  showed  tb''^^  the  ore  of  the  Tread- 
well  Mine,  on  Dougla.«w  Island,  averaged 
$2.50  to  $3.00  per  ton  and  yi«'iaed  a  large 
profit  on  account  of  their  extensive  work- 
niKS  and  by  stamping. 

In  the  Silver  Bow  Basin  three  miles 
northeast  oi  Juneau,  veins  of  rich  gold 
were  iH'ing  worked  successfully  in  a  400- 
f(»t  tunnel,  by  the  hydraulic  process  by 
Wiisconsin  jwrties. 

In  She<«i>  Greek  Basin,  across  the  di- 
vide, on  the  siajne  vein  extended,  fine  re- 
sults were  obtained  and  only  awaited  de- 
veloiwnent. 

About  .55  miles  southeast  of  Juneau  Sun 
Dmn,  Chief  and  Bald  Eagle  veins  were 
yielding  good  bullion,  at  the  rate  of  $48 
to  $55  a  ton. 

At  Seward  City,  near  Bemei's  Bay,  50 
mile.<»  north  of  .Tunean,  rich  veins  were 
yieldinig  gold.  On  Admiraity  Island,  at 
i^'unter  Bay,  abonit  30  miles  from  Juneau, 
liiey  fonuid  proiraisiiTug  veins  worked  by 
tiie  Boston-Alaska  Gold  Mining  Com- 
1  any.  Near  Sitka,  along  Silver  Bay,  and 
ill  the  connitry  to  the  southeast,  were  niu- 
uiei'ous  veins,  some  yielding  a  little  gold. 

At  Yakutat  Bay.  ea.st  of  Mt.  St.  Elias 
28G 


WONDERLAND 


vy 


21  hoars, 

0  the  lay- 
the  me- 
already 

uderlaind. 
in  one  of 
n^usti'ies, 
le  of  the 

d  Milling 
les  above 
xnl,  after 

1  in  1890. 
ivle. 
extended 

11  stocked 
l>risea. 
rk  of  the 
for  1S95- 
e  gold  de- 
near  the 
of  South- 

inity  of 
he  Trend- 

avoragetl 
ed  a  kirge 
sive  work- 

liree  miles 
rich  gold 
in  a  400- 

)rocess  by 

S9  the  dl- 
d,  fine  re- 
vaited  de- 
mean Sun 
eina  were 
ite  of  $48 

9  Bay,  50 
einis  were 
Island,  at 
n  Juneau, 
orked  by 
ing  Corn- 
Bay,  and 
were  nu- 
ittle  gold. 
St.  Elias 


and  along  the  west  shore  of  Kadiak  Isl- 
and, the  yield  of  beach  mining  was  large 
where  pay  sti-eaks  were  found. 

In  Uyak  Bay,  on  Kadiak  Island,  gold 
quartz  veins  were  found  two  feet  thick. 
Stream  gravels  were  also  being  worked  on 
Turn  Again  Arm.  at  the  head  of  Cook 
Inlet,  yielding  $120,000  value  of  gold  in 
1S9G.  Rich  gravels  were  discovered  fur- 
ther up  the  iidet.  A  working  on  Beaver 
Creek  yielded  an  average  of  $5  a  day. 

On  the  Island  of  Unpa,  in  the  Shiima- 
gin  archipelago,  near  Delaroff  Bay,  about 
1.000  miles  west  of  Sitka,  the  Apollo  Con- 
solidated Mining  Compajij',  one  of  the 
most  extensive  in  Alaska  in  1895-G,  was 
yielding  $360,000  a  year,  the  ore  averag- 
ing about  $9  a  ton,  much  of  the  gold  be- 
ing free.  This  company  had  $375,000  in- 
vented in  plant  alone. 

Even  on  Kotzobue  Sound  within  the 
Arctic  circle,  gold  is  stirred  ui>  by  canoe 
paddles  in  summer. 

These  reports  say  nothing  of  the  fabu- 
lous wealth  of  the  gold-bearing  districts 
of  inland  Alaska. 

If  all  the  companies'  and  their  opera- 
tions in  this  region  were  enumerated  in 
detail,  the  list  wowld  be  a  long  one  and 
would  add  to  what  my  fellow-citizen  read- 
ers in  "the  Stjates"  have  by  this  time 
realized — that  they  have  been  very  much 
misled  respecting  tbe  intrinsic  and  unde- 
veloped wealth  of  our  Alaskaai  Wonder- 
land. Even  a  London  exploration  com- 
pany i^  "in  it,"  and  capital  m  exploitation 
and  profitable  opera tions  is  not  limited  to 
owneT«hip  aimong  the  veteran  gold  opera- 
tons  of  the  Pacific  Staites. 

It  18  singuJar  that  in  these  ores  but 
very  littJe  ailTer  ia  found,  the  Sheep  Creek 
vein  being  the  only  one.  Rich  silver  ore 
is  found  north  of  GrOlovin  Bay,  above  Noi'- 
tocQi  Sound,  but  the  low  value  of  silver  is 
an  obstacle  to  ■working. 

When,  we  contemplBJte  this  established 
and  steady  flow  of  gold  supply  to  assist 
in  meeting  the  ever  increasing  demands 
of  the  world's  financial  operations,  we  are 
not  so  much  overcome  by  the  fabulous  and 
possibly  capricious  yields  of  the  placer 
mines  of  Klondike. 

The  existence  of  gold  In  the  Yukon  dis- 
287 


\l 


I 


<^!: 


I 


^V 


OUR  ALASKAN 

tirict  had  been  mentioned  as  early  as  1860, 
but  the  hostile  attitude  of  the  Chilkoot  oc- 
cupants of  the  naoiintaiii  fastnesses  of 
thai;  accessible  portion  of  the  coast  raiigQ 
thwarted  an  expedition  fitted  out  in  1878. 

It  was,  however,  in  the  same  year  that 
one  George  liolt  accomplishetl  the  jour- 
ney from  tide  water  to  the  Lake  Linde- 
man  headwaters  of  the  Yukon,  accorapani- 
ed  by  a  few  Indiams  and  following  tho 
Ohilkoot   Pass 

This  daring  pioneer  was  afterwards 
murdered  by  the  natives. 

In  1882  other  parties  made  the  rugge<l 
jouTney  by  the  Dyea  Trail.  Others  went 
in  by  the  Kaiya  Pass  and  found  near  th*,> 
international  boundary  fine  placer  mine^ 
and  300  miners  at  work. 

In  the  same  year  othei*  parties  took  the 
Yukon  route  in  a  small  steamer.  Winter- 
in*?  at  Nuklukayet  they  prospected  dur- 
ing? the  next  season,  findmg  coarse  gold 
everywhere. 

The  bairs  on  Stewart  River  and  tribu^ 
taries,  on  British  soil,  entering  the  Yukon 
above  the  Klondike,  gave  a  tine  show  of 
color  prior  to  1885. 

The  discoveries  of  coarse  gold  on  Forty- 
Mile  Greek  were  made  within  United 
States  jurisdiction  in  1886.  Alithoiigh 
this  stream  enters  Britisih  ten-itoi-y  2.3 
miles  above  its  monthi  and  Sixty-Mile 
Greek,  also  crosses  into  British  jurisdic- 
tion, the  best  of  these  diggings  are  on  the 
Unite^l  Statels  side  of  the  boundary.  In 
1887  l.'O  miners  were  at  work  at  differ- 
ent points. 

In  1893  gold  was  found  on  Birch  Creek 
juiid  its  forks.  This  stream,  flowing  north, 
is  wholly  within  United  States  jurisdic- 
tion and  enters  the  Yukon  from  tho 
south  on  the  Arctic  Gircle  just  below  oM 
Fort  Yukon,  at  the  confluence  of  thu 
Porcupine. 

The  mining  town  of  Circle  City,  on  the 
west  bank  of  thie  Yukon,  founded  in  1894. 
was  the  outcome  of  this  rush^  From  it 
is  a  portage  of  about  20  miles  to  the 
headwaters  of  Birch)  Creek,  where  the 
gold  lies. 

In  1896  Circle  City  had  a  iwpulation  oi 
1.800  people  officially  reported  to  the. 
Post  Office  Department.    Town  lots  wore 

288 


WONDERLAND 


selling  for  $2,000  each  and  $1,000,000  of 
«o'd  Axist  was  turned  out  from  the  Birch 
Greek  district. 

The  "city"  was  "officially"  dceribed  in 
1896  to  toe  departments  at  Washington 
as  having  a  postmaster,  who  was  the  only 
representative  of  the  majesty  of  United 
States  authority  in  a  region  almost  ais  ex- 
tensive as  the  Middle  States. 

It  ateo  had  aJl  the  con<>omit.anta  of 
"civilization"— dance  houses,  faro  banks 
and  rum  shops. 

Upon  the  receipt  of  the  news  of  the 
Klondike  discoveries  almost  the  entire 
susceptible  population  of  Circle  City 
"pulled  up  stakes"  and  disappeared  like 
a  Sight  of  birds  passage  in  a  single  nigfait. 
A  few  weeks  after  they  turned  up  in  the 
new  regions  about  200  miles  higher  up  the 
Yukon!  The  "poor  man's  diggings"  in  the 
placer  fields  of  the  Yukon,  are  in  their 
infancy.  The  impetus  given  by  the  lat- 
est discoveries  in  the  Klondike  across  the 
international  boundairy  line  has  vastly  en- 
larged the  field  of  prospecting  and  hx..s 
intensified  the  spirit  of  adventure  and 
praspecting  to  an  amazing  degree. 

The  field  has  been  broadening.  The 
milling  of  gold  in  the  .Tuneau  and  Sitka 
regions  is  an  established  indiisti"y.  The 
placer  regions  of  the  Yukon  on  both  Unit- 
ed States  and  Britishi  soil  also  point  to 
a  liarge  yield  before  exh'anisted.  Then  re- 
sort to  the  unlocked  treasures  of  the  lodes 
which  must  remain  of  the  source  of  glacial 
nroduction  of  the  placer  supply  will  be  had 
bv  mean®  of  machinery. 

The  difficulties  in  obtaining  supplies  and 
the  expense  of  transportart^ion,  which  has, 
thus  far  been  the  drawback  to  opera- 
tions on  a  large  scale  in  these  remote  re- 
gions, are  now  being  reduced  to  a  mini- 
mum. 

The  substitution  of  steamboats  for  ca- 
noes and  biadarkas  and  reindeer  for  dog 
teams  will  at  once  solve  the  problem. 

The  approximate  distributioo  of  gold 
production  in  the  United  States  estimated 
by  the  Director  of  the  Mint  was:  Alaisfcai, 
1894.  02,047  fine  ounces,  valued  at  $1.- 
282.623.  giving  Alaska  the  eighth  rank  in 
production.     In  1895,  78,140  ounces,  val- 

289 


ih 


'.M 


/ 


OUR  ALAHKAN 

lied  at  $1,015,300,  advancing  to  the  sixth 
in  pauk.  lu  1890,  99,144  ouucos  tin«. 
valued  at  $2,055,700;  silver,  145,300, 
coinage  value,  $187,803.  In  1807  gold. 
valu*?d  at  .'j;2.5()0,(HK).  The  Dirt'ctor^'  es- 
timate of  gold  from  Klondike,  British 
territory,  1807,  is  $2,500,000.  In  1807 
Alaska  was  fifth  in  rank  in  gold  produc- 
tion in  the  United  States,  the  valuation 
being  aijproximated  $20.07  per  fine 
ounce. 

The  Yukon  placer  production  of  Alas- 
kan fltieam®  in  1800  was  npproximiaitely 
$50,000;  1801.  $100,000;  1803,  $108,000; 
1804,  $-100,000:  1805,  $709,000  for  the  Yu- 
kon and  $00,080  for  other  streams.  The 
same  yoar  the  Ivaarle  Creek  discoveries 
were  made  and  Klondike  fol'owed^ 

The  total  gold  and  silver  production  of 
the  United  States  in  1800  was:  Gold, 
$53,088,000:  silver.  $30,055,000  commer- 
cial value,  $70,000,000  coining  value. 

Before  taking  a  survey  of  the  situation 
over  the  line  on  the  foreign  soil  of  our 
Klondike  neighbor  it  must  be  said  that 
gold  is  not  the  only  mineral  wealth  of 
our  Alaskan  wonderland. 

The  census  monograph  on  Ala8.ka,  1800, 
anxi  ♦■be  military  and  geographical  recon- 
iioistiiiices  since  enumerate  gold,  silver, 
copper,  iroTi>  lead,  antimony  and  platinum 
a 3.onig  the  metals  and  coal,  coal  oil,  mar- 
ble and  soapstone  among  the  other  hiid- 
den  resources  of  the  soil.  The  value  of 
gold  ami  silver  production  I  have  men- 
tioned. 

The  native  accounts  speak  of  fabulous 
quantities  of  copper  on  the  Copper  River, 
auid  samples  of  bullets  made  of  the  metal 
su^ained  their  statements.  These  repeal 
have  been  verified  by  scientific  and  other 
visitors  to  tlie  mouth  of  that  stream.  Not- 
witinstandins?  the  reconnoaseances  the 
"mountain  of  copper"  has  not  yet  been 
revealed. 

The  representatives  of  copper  producers 
have  already  taken  locations  <m  Prince 
William  Sound  on  the  coast  above  the 
outlet  of  the  Copper  River  and  will  be- 
gin operations  in  the  immediate  future. 

The  platinum  is  confined  to  the  Yukon 
region. 

200 


J 


f 


I 


.  .)• 


/ 


WONDERLAND 

The  United  States  official  rooonnois- 
eamx?  of  the  Alaska  coal  area,  1895,  siwr- 
roumid'itiR  Kootznaboo  Inlet,  along  the 
south  Slide  of  the  Alaskan  Peninsula  to 
the  head  of  Cook  Inlet  and  thence  to 
Kachomak  Bay,  where  extensive  deposits 
of  brown  coal  occur,  and  by  way  of  the 
Shum-aprin  Intends  to  Unalaska,  was  very 
eatiS'facto'  V. 

The  localities  Iwrderimg  on  B(*rin.g  Sea, 
south  and  north,  and  on  the  Yukon,  were 
not  visited,  although  reports  come  from 
those  regions. 

The  result  of  this  invostigatioh  was  that 
!iarge  fields  of  good  qualities  of  brown  coal 
oxifjt  on  the  owsteni  shore  of  Oook  Inilet 
and  on  the  soufli  isihore  of  the  Alaskan 
reninsnla. 

The  coals  of  Alaska  are  all  brown,  there 
being  no  anthracite  or  paleozoic  bitumin- 
ou«<  having  heon  found  up  to  that  time. 

The  universality  of  the  deposits  of  fos- 
sil fuel'  in  Alaska  is  very  great.  They  are 
found  at  numerous  ])ointisi  in  tlie  Alex- 
ander Archipelago,  on  Cook  Inlet,  Lituya 
and  Yakutat  Bay.  Kenai  Peniwsu'.a, 
ICadiak  Island  in  the  SliuTnagin  gi'oup, 
TTnga  and  Popoff  Islands  and  the  Aleutian 
Islands  from  Akum  and  TJnalaska  to 
Attu.  A'so  in  Northern  Alaska  on 
Numivak  Island  adini  flt  Point  Vancouver. 

This  valuable  agent  in  modem  develop- 
ment is  aliso  fouinid  in  the  Yukon  territory 
on  Norton  Sound,  Topanika  Ulufcak.  also 
in  the  Lower  and  Upper  Yukon  and  Nu- 
lato,  Kowak  River,  Oapes  Beaufort,  Jjfa- 
bume  and  Wainright  Met  in  the^  far 
North. 

The  tests  of  coals  taken  near  the  sur- 
face showed  very  satisfactory  results  as 
compared  with  Wellington  and  Niannarao 
from  Vancouver  Island,  Britis'h  Oolum'bia 
and  imported  bituminous  coal  firom  Oar- 
dif.  taken  as  a  stanld'ard. 

The  comparative  test  between  suppliies 
from  Oook  Inlet,  Alaska,  and  NanaJmo 
and  Cardiff  showed  Cook  Inlet  ooal  75 
per  cent,  of  the  heating  effect  of  Nanaimo 
and  63.7  per  cent  of  Cardiff  bituminous. 

This  was  considered  a  fair  average. 
Many  of  the  A'askan  coals  lie  near  tide 
water.  With  the  rapidly  increa.sing  de- 
291 


k 


n 


%n 


OUR  ALASKAN 

mand  for  stamrlng  mills  an  J  i-eduction 
works,  not  to  speak  of  steamea'S,  oceian 
a.nd  river  and  the  numerous  economic  pur- 
poses Alaskan  coals  will  find  an  extensive 
demand  if  chetaply  put  in  the  market. 

The  eleventh  census,  1890,  showed  coal 
to  the  amouMt  of  11,178  tons  imi>orted 
intx>  Alaska.  It  now  vastly  exceeds  that 
quantity. 

The  supply  as  late  as  1895  came  from 
"Vancouver  Islard,  Br'tiA  Columbia, 
mines.  Capitalists  fromi  the  United 
States,  both  Eastern  and  Western,  have 
been  prospecting  with  the  best  results. 

The  most  extenisdve  works  were  estab- 
lished on  Kachekmak  Bay,  Cook  Inlet. 
The  area  there  is  ro'ported  about  25  by 
80  miles  and  oomes  down  to  within  1,800 
feet  of  the  water. 

The  'aTgest  seam,  near  Coal  Point,  was 
seven  feet  thick,  resembling  lauthracite. 

In  1894  the  North  Pacific  Mining  and 
Transportation  Company,  with  $3,000,000 
capital  stock,  began  explorations  on  the 
bay.  The  Alaiska  Coal  Compiainy  a^so  be- 
gan operations  in  this  region  in  1889  with 
capital  stock  of  $2,000,000  in  $10  shares. 
Each  company  expended  about  $50,000 
in  preliminary  work  and  buildings  and 
plant. 

The  sparking  of  the  coal'  was  its  draw- 
back fAr  railroad  purposes,  according  to 
tests  on  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad. 

There  are  indication®  of  large  quanti- 
ties of  iron  ore  in  different  parts  of  Alas- 
ka. In  the  race  for  gold  the  less  rapid 
but  equally  remunerative  sources  of  nat- 
ural wealth  have  been  passed  by. 
^  A  va'unble  quiality  of  marble  from  wh'ch 
Mme  of  superior  quality  has  been  ma,de 
by  the  Russians  at  Sitka  exists  on  Halleck 
Islami    14  miles  distant. 

This  valuable  source  of  industry  is  !><'- 
ing  investigated  and  wUl  be  addenl  to  the 
list. 

The  existence  of  petroleum  has  alis-n 
b(>en  known  for  years.  The  surfaoo  of 
The  waters  in  the  viciinity  of  Prince  Wil- 
liam Sound  have  shown  it  in  floatinc 
quantities  !*ufl5cient  to  attract  not  only  at- 
tention but  exp'oitation  with  a  view  to 
investment  and  development. 
292 


If 


M'  ■ 


lOHB 


f 


WONDERLAND 

I  cannot  but  recall  the  confident  words 
of  Secretary  Seward  and  tha  stirring  oara- 
tory  of  Senator  Sumner  before  the  Sen- 
ate of  the  United  States  ttmd  of  the  patri- 
otic champions  of  the  Alaskan  purchase 
in  the  House  of  Representatives  upoo 
the  mineral  wealth  of  Alaska. 

The  outlook  of  1898  is  that  another  few 
years  will  develop  that  the  Union  pos- 
sesses no  single  Oomimonwealth  outsihiinr 
iog  in  mineral  wealth  our  Alaskau 
Wonderland.  And  who  knowis,  except  the 
omnisoent  architect  of  the  universe,  what 
yet  unspoken  treasuires  of  gems  and  met- 
a!i9  and  baser  things  of  commercial  value 
may  come  from  our  Alaska. 


I 


)|i| 


"i: 


29b 


■J* 

! 


^  f" 


bbor. 


LETTER  NIMBEIl  XXVI. 


Glittering  Treasure  Frozen 
Yukon  Sands. 


m 


Off  on  a  Honeymoon  and  Back  With 
a  Fortune. 


Dawaou,  the  City  of  Placers—A  "Slwash" 

Flaherman'a  Luck  Startles  the  World 

—The   Goia  u<  Alaaha   and    H  lon> 

dike  the  World's  Supply  of  th>; 

Future. 


The  oft  spun  tale  of  one  George  W. 
Carnmoli,  of  the  State  of  llliuois,  by  birth, 
in  a  state  of  native  inotrimouy  by  condi- 
tion and  a  state  of  indigence  by  circum- 
stances, epitoimizea  the  discovery  of  tlie 
golden  treasures  of  the  Klondike.  He 
Was  not  the  first  to  go  in,  but  was  the 
firat  to  come  out  with  luck  on.  his  side. 
He  had  married  a  Stickeen  woman  and 
lived  with  her  tribe  near  the  Tagisb  lake. 

While  on  a  salmon  curing  expedition  for 
his  winter  supplies,  having  camped  at  the 
month  of  the  Klondike,  a  miner's  soften- 
ing of-  tlve  Indian  Throndiuk  (water  full 
of  Ssh)  during  the  summer  of  1896, 
eked  out  the  rest  of  the  season  panning 
the  blars  of  tbat  stream. 

Making  a  domestic  affair  of  hif»  sudden 
road  to  fortune,  with  the  aid  of  hi«  wife 
and  Indian  bi"o the rs -in-law,  in  eight  days 
205 


Ml 


Mtl 


n 


OUR  ALASKAN 

in  the  month  of  August,  working  against 
every  disadvantage,  the  family  paity  pan- 
ned $14,200  on  Bonanzo  Or  nek  and  estab- 
lished the  reputation  of  tttmaiL  tributary  aa 
"a  payer." 

The  first  gold  excitement  beyond  the 
northern  limits  of  "the  States"  in  the  far 
northwest  occurred  in  1858,  in  the  Koote- 
nai district  in  the  southeastern  corner  of 
British  Columbia.  This  area  extends 
across  the  United  States  border  into  the 
States  of  Washington,  Idaho  and  Mon- 
tana. 

This  was  followed  by  further  disoover- 
ies  in  the  Carriboo  and  Praser  River  re- 
gions, also  in  British  Columbia.  There 
were  also  discoveries  along  the  head- 
waters of  Peace  River,  which  descends 
from  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Rocky 
Monn^^ins  and  finds  its  outlet  throngh 
Athabasca  and  Great  Slave  Lakes  and 
Mackenzie  River  into  the  Arctic  Ocean 
on  British  Canadian  soil. 

In  the  earlier  part  of  the  excitement 
these  placers  turned  out  $2,000,000  cul- 
minating in  1864  at  $3,800,000,  which  in 
1890  fell  to  less  tlian  one-seventh  that  an- 
nual output. 

In  1863  placers  were  located  in  the 
Stickeen  River  yielding  $10  a  man  per 
day.  These  mines  were  about  20  miles 
across  the  eastern  line  of  Southeastern 
Alaska,  the  Stickeen  River  itself  entering 
tide  water  near  Wrangel,  in  Alaska. 

In  the  more  distant  British-Canadian 
interior  gold  in  small  quantities  was  found 
near  the  junction  of  the  I^ewis  and  Pelly 
Rivers  of  the  Yukon,  at  Port  Selkirk.  In 
1869  the  United  States  Western  Union 
Telegraph  expedition  also  found  gold  on 
the  Upper  Yukon. 

But  it  was  not  until  George  Holt,  an 
experienced  prospector,  in  1875,  brought 
down  substantiated  reports  of  gold  on  the 
Lewis  that  the  "rush"  for  the  interior  be- 
gan. 

In  1881  gold  was  reported  the  whole 
—length  of  the  Big  Salmon,  one  of  the  up- 
per  tributaries  of  the  I^ewis-Yukon. 

In  the  same  year  a  party  of  prospector* 
ascended  the  Yukon  from  St.  Michael  on 
296 


g  against 
>arty  pan- 
ud  estab< 
butary  as 

yond  the 
ia  the  far 
tie  Koote- 
corner  of 
I  extends 
r  into  the 
md  Mon- 

disoover- 
River  re- 
.  There 
the  head- 
descends 
le  Rocky 
■t  through 
iiake»  and 
tic  Ocean 

xcitement 

0,000  oul- 

which  in 

h  that  an- 

ed  in  the 
man  per 
;  20  miles 
itheastem 
f  entering 
aska. 

•Canadian 
n'laa  found 
and  Pelly 
!lkirk.  In 
:n  Union 
d  gold  on 

Holt,  an 

i,  brought 
t>id  on  the 
iterior  be- 

:he  whole 
ot  the  uP' 
con. 

ro specter* 
ichael  on 


hi^^atfi 


WONDERLAND 

a  small  steamer  which  they  had  pur- 
chased. Wintering  at  Nuklukayet,  the 
following  season  they  found  gravel  bars 
on  the  tributary  creeks  of  the  great 
«tream  yielding  about  $12  a  day  to  the 
man.  These  were  the  first  gold  discover- 
ies <m  the  great  river  on  United  States 
soil. 

In  1883  about  $1,000  vaJue  of  coarse 
gold  exhibited  at  Juneaiu,  said  to  have 
come  from  the  Yukon,  gave  impetus  to 
the  rush  of  1884. 

The  resutts  on  Stewart  River  further 
stimulated  the  excitement.  Over  300 
miners  had  now  entered  the  vast  region 
beyond  the  coast  range  passes. 

In  1885  $75,000  value  of  gold  had  been 
brought  down  from  the  interior.  In  1886 
a  still  more  important  yield  was  made  at 
Cassiar  bar,  about  10  miles  below  the 
mouth  of  the  Big  Salmon^  yielding  about 
$20,000.  In  the  siame  year  gold  was  dis- 
covered near  the  outlet  of  Shitando  River, 
anglicised  Forty  Mile  Greek,  the  most  of 
w'luch  lay  on  the  United  States  side  of  the 
141  meridian. 

The  next  year  Franklin  Gulch,  named 
after  the  discoverer  of  Forty-Nine,  was 
opened.  This  gold  was  found  in  nuggets 
yielding  two  of  the  largest,  worth  $239 
and  $500,  found  in  the  Yukon  region. 

In  1890  the  yield  was  reported  by  the 
Governor  of  Alaska  at  $275,000,  although 
the  Director  of  the  Mint  stated  it  at  $50,- 
000,  which  was  regarded  as  a  very  con- 
servative estimate. 

The  next  discovery  was  Miller  Creek, 
in  the  Forty  Mile  district,  in  1892,  by  a 
prospector  of  that  name.  One  claim  yield- 
ed $30,000  the  first  year.  The  next  year 
80  men  took  out  $100,000.  This  is  situat- 
ed wholly  on  British-Canadian  soil. 

In  this  year  there  were  300  men  in  the 
Forty  Mile  region. 

In  1893  two  Russian  half-breeds 
brought  news  of  having  "struck  it  rich" 
on  Birch  Creek,  in  Alaska.  The  Koyukuk 
River  now  yielded  $30,000  as  a  starter. 

The  yield  of  the  Yukon  placers  in  1894 
had  largely  increased.  Forty  Mile  and 
Birch  Creeks  alone  putting  out  $409,000. 

297 


i!i 


n 


OUR  ALASKAN 


The  yield  of  18W  doubled  in  1895  with 
Eagle  Creek  added  to  the  list  of  "payers." 
The  Porcupine  even  yielded  its  share.  In 
that  year  the  Yukon  was  credited  with 
oontributing  $709,000,  with  the  Birch 
Creek  mine»  in  the  lead. 

The  discoveries  at  Klondike  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1896  exceeding  those  at  Birch 
Creek  again  syt  the  tide  in  motion. 

How  new^  circulates  in  a  region  with- 
out even  the  moist  primitive  means  of  es- 
tablished commamieation,  and  where  the 
men  spring  from  in  response,  is  a  mys- 
tery of  frontier  life.  It  would  seem  as  if 
the  very  solitudes  of  the  moun.tains>  and 
the  vales  carried  it  on  the  wings  of  the 
wind.  Before  the  end  of  August  the 
same  monthi  in  which  Carmack  made  bis 
"find,"  claamia  were  being  filed.  With- 
in thirty  days  over  200  men,  as  if 
they  had  risen  from  the  very  eai'th,  sprung 
upon  the  scene  and  began  the  scramble 
for  locations  and  the  golden  treasura  be- 
neath. 

The  word  Klondike  less  than  a  brief 
twelvemonth  later  wais  the  world  round, 
synonym  of  fabulous'  riches  in  fine  gold. 

The  United  States  Geological  Survey, 
ever  alive  to  the  developments  of  the  vast 
interior  regions  of  the  public  domain, 
promptly  dispatched  a  scientific  expedition 
under  J.  E.  Spurr,  assisted  by  H.  B. 
Goodman,  into  the  field  of  these  recent 
discoveries.  Prom  this  official  authority 
the  area  of  the  gold  producing  sources  of 
the  Yukon  placers  have  been  located.  The 
belt  of  auriferous  rocks  is  placed  at  50 
to  100  miles  in  width  and  extending  on 
both  sides  along  the  Yukon  about  500 
miles. 

The  eastern  or  up  stream  limit  lies  in 
BritishrCanadian  territory  and  crosses 
the  Lewis  and  Pelly  tributary  sources  of 
the  Yukon  just  above  their  junction  at  old 
Fort  Selkirk. 

The  belt  following  the  course  of  the  Yu- 
kon on  both  sides  crosses  into  United 
States  territory  just  before  reaching  the 
United  States  trading  post  Belle  Isle, 
about  220  miles  in  a  direct  line  and  much 
further  by  the  windings  of  the  river. 

298 


WONDERLAND 


in  1895  with 
t  af  "payers, 
its  share.    In 
credited  wrth 
b     the  Birch 

ke  in  the  sum- 
ose  at  Birch 
motion, 
a  region  with- 
e  means  of  es- 
and  where  the 
nse,  is  a  mys- 
>uld  seem  as  if 
mountains  and 
e  wings  of  the 
)f  August  the 
mack  made  bis 
g  filed.  With- 
>00  men,  as  if 
ry  eai'th,  sprung 
.n  the  scramble 
lem  treasure  be- 

is  than  a  brief 
lie  world  round, 
es  in  fine  gold, 
^logical  Survey, 
lents  of  the  vast 
public  domaJii, 
jntific  expedition 
isted     by  H.  B. 

of  tliese  recent 
official  authority 
ucing  sources  of 
,een  located.  The 

is  placed  at  DU 
nd  extending  0^ 

ukon  about  oOU 

earn  limit  lies  in 
ry  and  crosses 
jutary  sourc^  of 
;ir  junotion  at  oia 

ckjuxsie  of  the  Yu- 
jes  into  United 
fore  reaching  the 

post  Beile  Isle, 
ect  line  and  much 

of  the  river. 


Within  this  stretch  of  British  soil  on  the 
west  side  enters  tlie  White  River,  above 
the  rock  bordered  chiannol,  mapped  as  the 
Upper  Ramparts,  and  excepting  its  head- 
waters, entii-ely  on  British-Canadian  soil. 

Abwit  10  miles  below  on  the  east  side 
enters  the  Stewart  River.  This  stream 
and  all  of  those  inflowiup  on  this  side  as 
far  as  Bel.e  Isle  are  entirely  on  British 
Canadian  soil.  The  Stew^art  River  was 
an  important  factor  in  the  gold  production 
of  that  region  in  the  earlier  operations, 
but  lost  prestige  after  the  later  discover- 
ies. 

About  20  miles  down  stream  outers  Six- 
ty Jlile  River.  Although  the  intenia- 
tio'iial  line  is  but  a  lew  miles  in  a  due  west 
direction  from  its  mouth,  winding  down 
from  the  north  about  90  miles  of  its  course 
is  on  foreigu  soil. 

The  gold  producing  headwaters  but  10 
miles  by  portage  from  the  gold  yielding 
head  forks  of  Forty  Mile  River,  are  in 
Alaska.  About  40  miles  below  we  reach 
on  the  east  side  the  mouth  of  the  Klon- 
dike River,  the  sensation  of  the  day. 

About  50  miles  lower  down  the  Yukon 
we  arrive  at  Forty  Mile  River  from  the 
west,  with,  the  British  frontier  customs 
lK)sts  of  Forty  Mile  on  the  south  and 
Cudahy  on  the  north  side  of  its  mouth. 
About  15  miles  of  this  stream  in  a  straight 
line  is  on  British-Canadian  soil,  the  most 
valuable  placer  portion,  however  in  the 
forks  are  wholly    in  Alaska. 

The  Yukon,  after  a  sinuous  course, 
though  less  than  25  miles  cross-coumtry, 
nasses  under  United  State®  jurisdiction 
and  terminates  the  Yukon  BritiJ^h-Cana- 
dian  gold  area.«f.  About  110  miles  a  little 
west  of  north  in  a  direct  line  and  further 
by  the  river  lies  the  Birch  Creei<  Uniteil 
States  mining  metropolis  of  Circle  City 
named  in  honor  of  the  Arctic  circle. 

Paissing  over  the  break,  "ignominiouisly 
surreudei-edj"  as  Senator  Sumner  chaa-- 
acterized  it  m  the  continuity  of  our  Pacific 
Coast  posisessions  we  find  that  the  terri- 
torial bounds  of  British  Comnbia,  by 
which  this  tborn  in  the  side  of  the  people 
of  the  United  States  is  designated,  inter- 
sects the  10  niariiip  league  eaistern  Intei*- 
299 


!  i 


I  !I 


It  ,' 


OUR  ALASKAN 

n.atioiuil  boiiiKlarj'  of  Soiitheastorn  Ala»- 
ka  at  tlie  sixtieth  parallel.  North  of  thia 
line  and  east  of  Western  Continental 
Ahmka  lies  the  vast  frigid  repion  known 
as  the  British  Northwest  Territory. 

The  first  news  of  the  Klondike  discov- 
eries wafted  across  the  United  States 
border  in  the  direction  of  the  Birch 
Rivtyr  mining  town.  Circle  City,  about 
300  miles  lower  down  the  Yukon,  although 
mid-winter  with  the  mercury  frozen  in 
the  bulb,  and  the  tf  mperature  at  60  de- 
grees be'.6w  zero,  set  in  moti-n  540  men 
for  the  new  field.^ 

The  ^toi'ies  of  the  winter's  work  and 
the  haro ships  overcome  seem  incredible. 

The  Klondike  approaches  the  Yukon 
from  the  southeast  and  has  four  princi- 
pal tributaries  from  the  south.  The 
Bonanza,  the  largest,  enters  three  milea 
above  the  mouth,  aird  has  six  tributary 
ci-eeks  of  its  own,  the  richest  being  Eldo- 
rado, about  thirty  miles  long,  with  sev- 
eral small  branc'iios.  Ten  miles  higher  up 
the  Klondike  is  Bear  Creek:  al>ove  that 
Hunker.  Five  miles  above  is  Gold  Bot- 
tom, and  twenty-five  miles  above  that 
Too  Much  Gold.  It  is  claimed  that  these 
streams  and  tributaries  are  holding  out 
as  rich  as  the  first  discoveries. 

The  equipment  of  a  Yukon  miner,  what 
he  can  buy  foT  a  song,  consists  of  a  pick, 
shovel,  gold  pan,  whip-saw  and  axe.  What 
he  cannot  buy  for  all  the  riches  of  Klon- 
dike but  must  have,  is  a  constitution  of 
iron,  a  body  of  steel  and  a  will  of  both, 
m  order  to  endure  almost  the  utmost  limit 
of  cold,  relentless  exposure,  the  coarsest 
of  food  and  the  rudest  of  habitation. 

There  is  naturally  no  end  of  tales  told 
of  the  fabulous  wealth  of  the 
Klondike,  and  there  is  no  reason 
to  doubt  them.  The  proof  of  the  pudding 
being  the  eating  thereof  the  scene  on  the 
wharves  of  Portland  and  Seattle  was 
suflficient  to  satisfy  the  most  incredulous. 

The  Barney  Barnato  of  the  Klondike  is 
eiven  as  Clarence  J.  Berry,  a  Fresno, 
Cal.,  fanner,  hopelessly  in  debt  and  in 
love  with  a  pretty  maid  whom  he  wished 
to  marry.  She  loved  him.  They  were 
married  and  took  their  honeymoon  to  the 
Klondike. 

300 


WONDERLAND 


hoastorn  Altis- 
North  of  this 
1  Continental 
region  known 
rerritory. 
loudike  discov- 
United  States 
»f  the  Birch 
e  City,  about 
ukon,  although 
;ury  frozen  in 
ture  at  60  de- 
oti.n  540  men 

er's  work  and 
»m  incredible. 
ea    the   Yukon 
1,8  four  princi- 

south.  The 
irs  three  milea 
}  isix  tributary 
?ist  being  Eldo- 
ong,  with  sev- 
niles  higher  up 
?k;  aJ>ove  that 
e  i»  Gold  Bot- 
ps  above  that 
med  thiat  these 
re  holding  out 
;ries. 

)n  miner,  what 
sists  of  a  pick, 
and  axe.  What 
•iches  of  Klon- 
constitution  of 
a  will  of  both, 
[le  utmost  limit 
e,  the  coarsest 

habitation, 
d  of  tales  told 
lib  of  the 
3  no  reason 
of  the  pudding 
le  scene  on  the 
I  Seattle  was 
»t  incredulous. 
:he  Klondike  is 
•rry,  a  Fresno, 
ti  debt  and  in 
horn  he  wished 
1.  They  were 
leymoon  to  the 


The  br'de  bore  her  share  in  the  toils 
and  trials  a.nd  they  won  together.  For 
luck  Berry  was  without  a  rival.  In  30 
bos  lengths,  12x15  inches  to  the  box,  he 
took  out  $130,000,one  length,  yielding  $10.- 
000.  A  single  nugget  of  13  ounces,  worth 
$17  an  ounce,  the  camp  standard,  realized 
$221.  This  was  one  of  the  returning 
miners  who  carried  his  gold  in  sacks,  two 
of  which  he  sold  for  $85,000  as  soon  a« 
be  lande<l.  Berry  and  his  bride  after  a 
twelvemonth  were  back  in  Fresno  with 
their  romantically  earned  gold.  Purchas- 
ing the  old  farm  they  settled  down  to  en- 
ioT  life  in  the  good  old  way.  This  is  tlie 
extreme  limit  but  the  stories  of  rapidly 
gotten  wealth  in  "chunks"  are  fabulous. 

A  pan  will  hold  about  two  quarts  of 
"dirt,"_  weighing  12  to  14  ixKunds,  which 
it  requires  about  ten  minutes  to  wash  out. 
The  reward  of  the  lucky  ones  are  given  at 
$100  to  $280  to  the  pan.  Another  $1,500 
in  four  pans. 

These  instances  ot  luck,  for  that  is  nine 
parts  of  successful  placer  mining  the  odd 
ternth  being  "the  color"  itself,  might  be 
multiplied  almost  indefinitely.  If  the  ex- 
neriences  of  1896-7  be  the  measure  of  the 
future  wMth  increased  numbers  aha  king 
out  the  glittering  particles,  the  golden 
riches  of  the  Klondike  will  exceed  the 
nlacer  mines  of  Africa  if  not  of  Califor- 
nia while  they  last.  After  the  Klondike 
excitement  abates  the  world  will  be  star- 
tled by  the  prospectors  of  Alaska  who 
have  made  imiwrtamt  new  discoverit'is  for 
the  time  being  overehadowed. 

An  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  richness 
of  this  stream  by  $100,000  worker]  out  of 
100  feet  of  a  claim  the  owner  refusing 
$200,000  for  the  rest,  expecting  to  realize 
$400,000.  His  pay  dirt  averaged  $2.50  to 
each  man  a  day. 

It  is  told  of  rainei"s  in  exti'eme  cold 
weather  can-ying  the  "dirt"  into  their 
shacks  and  after  melting  snow  and  ic<? 
in  a  tub  panning  out  $1,800  in  a  day  to 
meet  expenses. 

While  the  accounts  of  gold  ring  upon 
the  ears  of  the  world  with  such  startling 
effect  the  gold  itself  is  wrung  out  of  its 
bed  at  the  cost  of  almost  saporhiiman  en- 
duirance,  toil  and  discomfort. 

;?oi 

Pecif[-  N.  V/.  History  Dopt. 

PROVINCIAL  LiDRARY 
VICTORtA,  B.  C. 


i  !ai 


'  .':( 


OUR  ALASKAN 


The  Yukon  sold  miaing.whotUer  in  Alas- 
ka or  KloiiiliUf,  (lifftirs  eiitwely  from  the 
Draetice  in  "the  States."  This  is  largely- 
due  to  tlw?  Arctic  coaditions  which,  en- 
reloiM'  tliL*  oonntiy.  All  claims  as  the  in- 
dlvitlnal  arcai*  are  termed,  under  Canodi- 
nn  laws,  arc  500  feet  with  the  stream  aud 
from  rim  rock  to  rim  rock  on  either  bank 
at  right  angles,  usually  from  80  to  100 
feet  in  wiillh  in  gulches. 

In  Yukon  placer  mining  it  is  necessary 
to  sink  a  siiaft  to  IkhI  rock  beneath.  This 
severe  task  in  the  face  of  the  fro  •'^n  con- 
ditions consists  first  in  removin^g  KXt  of 
&i)hagimim  or  Arctic  moss, 

Theiii  is  encountered  n  bed  of  8oil 

and  gravel  frozen  as  tight  ns  a  winter  tem- 
Twrature  as  low  as  75  below  zero  can 
fnvze  it  fast  to  the  bwl  rock,  sometimes 
25  feet  below  the  surface.  Through  this 
adamantine  covering  it  is  necesisary  to 
Bem'trate  before  the  "pay  dirt"  which 
lies  immediately  on  top  of  the  bed  rock, 
can  l>e  reached. 

If  my  readers  will  imagine  a  liole  in  the 
eround  and  from  the  top  look  into  its 
denths,  after  removing  nature's  top  dreas- 
ine  of  moss,  soil  and  muck,  next  will  be 
«^en  a  layer  of  gravel  and  sand  possibly 
12  to  15  feet  from  which  a  small  yield  of 
eold  is  taken.  Next  is  met  a  layer  of 
3  or  4  feet  of  coarse  gravel,  in  this  crse 
yielding  from  $1  to  $5  a  pan.  As  we  enter 
the  "pay  streak"  the  1  or  2  feet  of  gravel 
becomes  finer  and  these  mines  have  aver- 
ngt»d  upwards  of  $100  a  pan.  Below  thds 
is  a  "pay  streak"  of  black  sand,  very 
fine  usually  accompanying  placer  go'd. 
which  here  has  yielded  from  $30  to  $50 
a  pan.  Below  tbis  is  the  bed  rock.  A 
pan,  as  I  have  said,  means  about  two 
quarts  of  "dirt"  and  ten  minutes  shaking 
the  pan  with  the  "dirt"  and  water. 

To  reach  this  depth  is  m  itself  a  hur- 
culenn  task  and  can  only  be  accomplished 
inch  by  inch  by  means  of  immense  fires 
built  on  the  spot  to  be  worked  with  wood 
carried  a  mile  or  more  and  renewing  the 
ooeration  as  the  film  of  surface  is  thawed 
Roft  enooigh  to  be  detached  from  tlie  rest. 

When  too  great  a  depth  is  reached  it 
is  necessary  to  hoist  the  loosencHl  earth 
to  tho  surface  by  means  of  a  wiiwllass, 
303 


WONDERLAND 


ether  in  Ala«- 
•ely  from  the 
his  is  largely 
IS  which  en- 
ras  a.s  the  in- 
nder  Canaxii- 
e  stream  aud 
either  bank 
m  80  to  100 

is  necessary 
)eneath.  This 
e  fro-'-^n  con- 

iu^         KXt  of 

of  soil 

u'liiuer  tem- 
y\v  zero  can 
k.  sometimes 
Through  thia 
necesisiary    to 

dirt"  which 
he  bed  rock, 

a  hole  in  the 
look  into  its 
e's  top  dress- 
next  will  be 
^and  possibly 
imall  yield  of 
't  a  layer  of 
in  this  crse 
As  we  enter 
eet  of  gravel 
is  have  aver- 
Below  this 
:  sand,    very 
placer   gold. 
1  $80  to  $50 
bed  rock.  A 
i  about  two 
iites  shiaMng 
i  water. 
itself  a  hur- 
iccomplished 
fflmense  fires 
i  with  wood 
enewing  the 
•e  is  thawed 
iHn  tlie  rest. 
1  reached  it 
sened  earth 
a  windlass, 


which  requires  additional  labor  at  $1.50 
an  bour. 

It  does  not  always  follow  that  the  pay 
fitreak"  will  "pan  out  ridi"  when  it  is 
reached.  That  is  the  chance.  Nor  does 
this  toil  end  hero.  After  reacbin^  the 
streak  it  becomes  necessary  to  drift  or 
tunnel  into  the  still  frozen  soil.  Fire  ia 
again  resumed.  This  time  by  stacking 
the  wood  at  the  bottom  of  the  ehaft 
against  tbe  face  of  the  proposed  drift  aind. 
placinig  over  it  a  roof-like  arrangement  o* 
boards  resting  against  the  side  of  the 
s^haft  above  the  wood  on  one  side  and 
against  the  bottom  of  tbe  shaft  below  It 
on  the  other.  As  the  wood  bfoxeath  bums 
the  thawing  earth  above  falling  upon  this 
extemporized  roof  retains  the  heat  under- 
neath sufficiently  to  soften  the  pay  streak 
so  that  the  earth  may  be  removed. 

This  is  hoisted  to  the  top  by  means  of 
a  windlass  and  placed  in  a  pile  for  pan- 
ning or  sluicing  in  the  spring  and  sum- 
mer. 

The  sluice  box  is  a  stripped  bottom  re- 
ceptacle into  which  the  "dirt"  is  thrown. 
The  particles  of  hi^avicr  gold  fall  when 
loosed  from  the  "dirt"  in  passing  througlh 
the  box  by  means  of  running  water.  Tbe 
gold  is  held  in  check  by  the  strips,  into 
which  it  has  settled.  This  process,  with 
an  abundance  of  water.  indispomsaWe  in 
STOld  mining,  greatly  facilitates  the  opera- 
tion of  separating  the  gold  from  the  sand 
aiid  gravel  which  carries  it.  It  also  in- 
creases the  amou'nt  bandied  from  ten  to 
fourteen  pounds  to  the  pan  to  hundreds 
and  thousands  in  the  sluice  boxes,  and 
witb  a  proportionate  yield  from^  ounces  to 
pounds,  that  is.  "if  it's  there." 

The  ruling  rate  of  labor  at  $10  to  $15 
a  day  while  excessive  to  home  ears  is 
usually  met  by  a  few  pans  worked  at 
the  close  of  the  day. 

In  winter  nanning  or  sluicing  is  impos- 
55ible,  but  the  "dirt"  made  ready  for 
that  operation  during  the  frozen  weather 
is  panmed  with  the  first  thaw  of  sum- 
mer. As  the  sub-Arctic  day  at  its  height 
is  fully  20  to  21  hours  long  no  time  is  lost 
during  the  ten  or  twelve  weeks  it  lasts. 
The  mercury,  thawed  out,  crawls  up  to 
303 


-S-/J 


OUR  ALASKAN 


w  > 


90  degrees  above  instead  of  taking  a 
frozen  sleep  iu  the  bulb  at  40  bplow,  with 
the  tempera turp  running  20  tc  25  degrees 
irore  omt  of  Bigbt. 

There  is  doubtless  a  vast  storo  of  golden 
wealth  on  both  sides  of  the  Yukon  in  the 
gold  belt  I  h  (ve  described  and  with  the 
multitude  of  prospectors  pouring  into  the 
country  some  of  it  will  be  found. 

There  are  already  current  stories  of 
gold  quartz  on  the  streams  near  Cone  Hill, 
discovered  by  an  American,  and  reputwi 
to  be  more  vahmble  than  the  famous 
Troadwell  Mines  in  Southeaistern  Alaska. 

TTie  suddenness  vi'itli  wliich  towns  have 
sprung  up  under  sucb  severe  coinditions 
is  a  marvel  equal  to  the  disv-losnres  of  the 
hiddec  wealth  of  the  "dirt''  upon  which 
they  are  founded. 

Joseph  La  Due,  a  name  familinr  in  the 
Twkon  region's  as  a  pioneer,  trader,  miner 
and  saw  mill  operatoi,  was  at  Sixty-mile 
Oreek  trading  post  about  that  many  milm 
above  the  Klondike,  sawing  luiiTber.  Hear- 
ing of  the  reports  from  below  he  rafted 
his  entire  saw  mill  down  to  the  monlh  of 
that  stream^  and  Inid  the  foundation  of 
a  "city,"  which  became  the  famou*i  Daw- 
son of  the  Klondike,  after  the  leader  o.^ 
the  first  Canadian  International  Boun- 
dary Survey  of  1887. 

This  wiiv  individual  was  overrun  with 
orders  at  $100  and  more  per  1.000  souare 
feet  for  lumber  which  cost  him  nothinsr 
in  the  rough.  Tlii*  him1>er  was*  punted  or 
curried  to  the  miming  tributaries. 

Before  the  sprinsr  of  1897  1.300  men 
we''e  reported  at  Dawson.  The  "eiiy"' 
also  began  to  show  manifest  signs  of 
growth  and  civilization.  Some  live<l  in 
tents,  some  in  frame  bui!d!"»gs.  and  some 
in  shactet.  a  loe  and  bmsh  and  eartli- 
covered  hut.  There  were  five  saloons  in 
full  blast,  taking  in  from  $200  to  $1,000 
a  day,  with  whisky  and  beer  at  50  cents 
a  drink.  There  were  gambling  dena 
which  did  a  thriving  business  on  a  hat 
fnl'l  of  nuggets  ante.  There  were  dance 
houses,  loud  with  ribaldry  and  fierce  en- 
joyment. 

T't?  town  itself  was  staked  off  accord- 
in/j  ;••>  the  "American  plan,"  whatever 
304 


II 


WONDERLAAD 


that  may  be;  possibly  the  web  and  woof 
style  made  by  contract  and  cut  off  to 
suit  Burcbasers.  Town  lots  cu  main 
Sphagnum  paved  thoroughfaxes  brought 
$1,01>0  to  $2,000  each. 

The  "City"  of  Da.wsoii  is  from  5  to  50 
iiules  frcM  the  immediate  scene  o*  the 
ejift^r  gi^me  of  chance  being  playei  with 
Mother  Earth  by  thousands  of  enduring 
and  toilinig  men. 

The  British  Canadian  City,  popu'i>  ed 
almost  wholly  by  citizens  of  the  United 
States,  is  still  heralded  as  a  saintly  ren- 
dezvf»us  rt  the  d«"ring  adventurens.  It 
does  lack  tht  old  fashion  vivacity  of  Unit- 
ed States  mining  towns,  wnere  miners 
carriot'  p  femall  arsenal  about  thoir  per- 
sons and  iuOulged  in  an  ocasionai'  fus.I- 
ade  for  pastime. 

There  are  also  other  ways  of  gettini? 
gold  Lco;dc3  t^^  toi:some  Ijbor  fvi  t-t- 
poBure  of  the  gulch  and  tne  shaft.  The 
mining  laborer  is  va  demand  at  $1,50  an 
hour,  the  carpenter  $1.0*>  au  tiour,  and 
other  manual  and  mecJanical  occupations 
at  the  same  rate. 

The  credit  of  being  the  first  woman  iu 
the  Klondike  region  iis  given  to  Mrs. 
ThoiTias  Lippey,  who  lived  in  a  tent  and 
took  *-  n'  chances  with  the  rest  in  toiling 
at  the  .vi'ndlass.  in  the  pit  or  at  the  paou 

A  story  is  told,  of  an  Irish  cook  having 
left  her  employer  in  San  Francisco, 
started  for  the  Klondike  by  the  Yuko'n 
route.  She  had  upwards  of  a  bundrec 
offers  of  marriage  before  she  reached  f".'.. 
Michael.  Finally  she  accepted  a  bnn/ 
boy  of  her  own  ould  Ireland,  who  had  the 
grit  in  hiin.  In  one  season  she  was  back 
in  San  Francisco  with  a  fortune  and, 
taking  farewell  of  her  employer,  was  off 
for  Eiriu. 

AnotJier  woman,  opening  a  laundry, 
made  a  small  fortune  in  a  single  season. 

There  is  work  for  all  who  come,  as  long 
as  the  "color"  lasts,  at  laborers'  wages 
as  "rich"  ailttiost  as  the  yield  of  the  "pay 
dint"  vts-^Jf. 

The  l-<?8t  chances  have  been  taken  by 

the  pioiieera.     It  is  known  that  many  of 

the  claims  have  already  passed  into  second 

hands  at^  prices  ranging  as  high  as  prop- 

:i0j 


ova  ALASKAN 

erties  in  a  metropolitan  city  five  and  six 
thousand  miles  away  in.  the  heart  of  pop- 
ulation! and  commercial  wealth. 

There  are  other  streams  in  this  region 
from  which  favorable  accounts  may  be 
anticipated  if  the  number  of  claims  stak- 
ed is  any  guide  to  realized  expectations. 
Among  them  are  Miller  Glacier  and  Gold 
Greeks,  tributaries  of  Sixty-Mile  River 
on  the  Canadian  side  of  the  line,  and  es- 
timated at  $90,000  a  season.  Tliere  are 
also  reports  of  a  quartz  lode  about  19 
miles  from  the  Klondike,  from  3  to  8  feet 
thick,  realizing  from  samples  $100  a  ton, 
and  another  lode  is  mentioned  on  a  stream 
midway  betweem  the  coast  range  and 
Fort  Selkirk.  Also  at  the  head  of  Alsek 
River,  near  the  Chilkat  Inliet. 

The  immense  wealth  of  the  Klondike 
placers  logically  means  valuable  quartz 
lodes  somewhere  near  by.  To  placer,  "the 
l>oor  man's"  mining,  there  has  always 
been  an  easy  limit.  Then  the  field  will' 
open  to  expensive  machinery. 

The  future  will'  reveal  the  rest. 

The  placer  mines  of  Klondike,  50  to 
100  miles  east  of  the  Alaskan  border,  are 
but  part  of  the  same  gold  beariug  area 
the  greater  i>ortion  of  which  lies  within 
the  United  States'  jurisdiction,  and  will 
prove  of  equal  richness. 

It  is  claimed  that  the  Klondike  placers 
are  the  richest  in  the  world  to-day  and 
will  be  the  richest  ever  known  while  they 
last. 

The  mysterious  happenings  in  the  race 
for  liidden  gold  will  decide,  but  to-day  it 
looks  as  if  the  Yukon  mines  will'  be  the 
foiemost  source  of  supply  of  the  increas- 
ing demand  of  *^he  stock  of  gold  required 
by  tibe  financial  liransaction  of  the  world. 

There  is  roora  in  tlie  Klondike  region 
alone  for  thoust  nds  of  mining  claims,  the 
most  desirable  of  which  have  been  fileil 
and  there  is  room  for  thousands  of  men 
to  work  them. 

There  is  a  chance  for  thousands  more 
io  make  their  own  "stake"  by  prospecting 
and  luck  in  Alaskan  and  Klondike  golden 
fields. 

The  mining  laws  of  tSie  United  States 
requiring  citizenship  or  declaration  of  in- 
306 


ive  and  six 
art  of  pop- 
1. 

this  region 

Its  may  be 

claims  stalk- 

xpectations, 

r  aod  Gold 

Mile  River 

ine,  and  es- 

Tliere  are 

about    19 

3  to  8  feet 

$100  a  ton, 

on  a  stream 

range  and 

id  of  Alsek 

e  Klondike 
ib!e  quartz 
[>l'acer,  "the 
las  always 
e  field  will' 

rest. 

iike,  50  to 

border,  are 
sarinig  area 

lies  within 
n,  and  will 

like  plaeera 
to-day  and 
while  they 

in  the  race 
lit  to-day  it 
will'  be  the 
the  inereas- 
>ld  required 
:he  world, 
aike  regioai 
claims,  the 
been  filed 
ids  of  men 

*andH  more 
prospwtin^ 
dike  golden 

ited  States 
titiou  of  in- 


WONDERLAUD 

tention  to  become  such,  and  beyond  that 
are  of  the  utmost  liberality  to  the  miner. 

The  Canadian,  law  is  the  reverse.  As 
soon  as  tlie  citizens  of  the  United  States 
opened  the  country  for  them  they  hur- 
ried ou't  their  surveyors,  mounted  police, 
goJd  commissioner,  customs  officers  and 
took  poesession.  They  also  establislhed 
a  license  fee  of  $15  for  each  miner,  be- 
tiides  $100  annual  rental  on  each  claim, 
a  royalty  of  10  per  cent,  on  th.e  gross  pro- 
duction of  all  mines  yielding  over  $500 
a  month  and  20  per  cent,  above  that. 
They  reserve  each;  alternate  claim  for  tbe 
Government. 

How  long  tliese  exactions  upon  a  sov- 
ereign people  at  home  will  be  submitted 
to  remains  to  be  seen.  Ex-Secretary  of 
State  WilJiiam  H.  Seward  gave  a  forecast 
of  that  in  his  speeches  in  Alaska,  Britisih 
Columbia  and  Oregon,  in  1869. 


307 


CROCIBLE  TESTS, 


'AtJMi'lH  iflf 


SIS, 


:^ 


LETTER  NUMBER  XXVII. 


"Uncle  Sam"  a  Spot  Cash  Buyer 
of  Millions  at  the  Mints. 


What  Becomes    of   Alaskan  and 
Klondike  6old. 


From    Daat  and   Hnggcts   to    American 

Eaglca~Ho^v  It   U  Done—Gold 

"Officially"  Speaking. 


Th<&  suggestion  frequently  arises  iu  the 
popular  mind,  even  if  the  question  be  not 
asked,  as  to  what  disposition  ig  made  of 
the  accumulatiom  of  crude  gold  which  \a 
brought  K.ck  to  the  "States"  from  das- 
kan  and  Klondike  placens  by  the  men 
who  toiled  and  sacrificed  for  its  posses- 
sion through  a  long  Arctic  winter  hurried 
spring  ami  'smap-shot"  siummer. 

The  answer  is  simple.  A  large  portion 
finds  its  way  out  of  the  hands  of  its  orig- 
inal possessors  in  payments  to  the  trad- 
ing compaiaies  or  merchants  for  food, 
clothing  and  supplies  of  various  kinds; 
much  of  it  goes  into  the  pockets  of  saloon 
keepers  on  the  spot;  and  a  share  too  of- 
ten vanishes  at  the  gambling  tables  and 
still  more  changes  owners  in  large  sums 
through  various  forms  of  dissipation. 

The  average  mini^r  in  the  end  has  lit- 
tle of  his  hard-earned  spoil  of  the  golden 
gravels  left.     He  starts  ahead  again  to 
test  fortune  for  another  supply- 
In   "the   region"   every   one  carries  a 

309 


(■! 


OVB  ALASKAN 


pair  of  small  scales  and  payments  are 
made  by  weight  at  $17  per  Ti'oy  ounce 
of  dust  or  nuggets.  The  Troy  otni'ce  is 
the  unit  of  value. 

Those  miners  who  reach  "the  States" 
■with  their  buckskins,  valises,  oil  cans» 
and  other  receptacles  full  of  the  precious 
metal  usually  convert  it  into  coin  by 
sales  through  brokers,  often  at  enormous 
diiscourvts  and  excessive  commissions  and 
other  manufactured  charges. 

The  oflScial  method,  which  is  the  most 
remunerative  to  the  original  owner,  and 
that  which  is  employed  by  the  broker,  is 
to  present  the  yellow  metal  at  a  United 
States  mint  or  assay  office  in  San  Fran- 
cisco, PhiJiadelphia  or  other  point  where 
such  a  Government  institution  is  located, 
and  hftve  it  pronerly  assayed  and  paid  for 
in  United  States  codoi 

In  order  to  be  exact  in  the  narration 
of  a  routine  which  is  exactness  itself,  I 
will  a/vail  myself  of  the  routine  officially 
described  to  me  by  Mr.  Herman  Kreitz. 
the  superintendent  of  the  United  States 
Mint  at  Philadelphia. 

Superintendent   Kretz    says: 

"The  rules  governing  the  receipt  of  de- 
posits from  the  general  public  are  very 
simple. 

"Gold  is  received  in  tlie  following  forms, 
viz.:  Bars,  grains,  lumps  and  dust  in 
their  native  state,  free  from  eiarth  and 
stone,  or  nearly  so;  amalgam  with  the 
quicksilver  expelled,  jewelry,  dentist's 
plate,  gold  leaf  from  bookbinders'  waste, 
clean  fillings,  etc.  In  a  word.,  all  bullion 
suitable  for  the  operation  of  the  mint 
and  one  hundred  dollars  in  value  and  up- 
wards will  be  received  at  the  mint.  (Ixfss 
value  than  one  hundred  dollars  may  be 
refused). 

"To  produce  a  value  of  one  hundred 
dollars  would  require  in  native  gold  from 
six  to  eig'ht  ounces  Troy  weight.  For 
jewelry  750  (18  karats)  down  to  333-i^ 
M.  (8  karats)  from  seven  to  fifteen 
ounces  would  be  required.  Eighteen 
karat  gold  is  worth  $15.50  an  ounce.  An 
ounce  Troy  of  pure  gold  (or  24  karat)  is 
worth  $20.67.  Standard  or  coin  gold 
(21.19  karats)  is  worth  $18.60  a  TSroy 
310 


h'  i 


WONDERLAND 


aynients  are 

Ti'oy  ounce 

roy  oumce  is 

"the  States" 
ses,  oil  cans* 
the  predoTia 
into  conn  by 
at  enormous 
missions  and 

1  is  the  most 
1  owner,  and 
the  broker,  is 
I  at  a  United 
in  San  Fran- 

•  point  where 
ion  is  located, 
I  and  paid  for 

the  narration 
tness  itself,  I 
ttine  officially 
erman  Kreitz, 
United  States 

ys: 

receipt  of  de- 
iblic  are  very 

llowing  forms, 
(  and  dust  in 
om  eiarth  and 
gam  with  the 
i.Tj,  dentist's 
Huders'  waste, 
)rd,  all  bullion 
y  of  the  mint 
value  and  up- 
he  mint.  (I>ess 
o'ilars  may  be 

?  one  hundred 
Ltive  gold  from 
r  weight.  For 
[own  to  333-^ 
m  to  fifteen 
red.     Eighteen 

•  an  ounce.  An 
or  24  karat)  is 

or     coin  go-d 
$18.60  a  Troy 


ounce.  (Deposits  of  uncurrent  or  mutilat- 
ed gold  and  silver  coins  of  the  United 
States,  when  presented  in  sums  of  three 
dollars  and  upwards  will  be  received  and 
paid  for  as  standaH  metal). 

Such  bullion  (as  mentioned  above)  is 
delivered  by  the  individual  to  the  deposit 
weigh  room,  (nensons  at  a  distance  can 
employ  the  express  companies  or  their 
business  correspondents  to  deposit  for 
tihem).  The  deposit  is  then  weighed  by 
the  weigh  clerk,  in  the  presence  of  the 
depositor  or  his  agent,  and  the  weight  ver- 
ifiedi  by  the  registrar  of  deposits.  For 
the  weight  before  melting  a  receipt  is 
given  to  the  depositor-  The  name  of  the 
depositor,  the  number  and  date  of  each 
deposit,  kind  of  bullion,  carefully  obsen- 
ing  character  of  metal,  is  entered  in  the 
respective  books  of  the  weigh  e'erk  and 
registrar. 

"The  deposit  is  at  once  placed  in  a  cop- 
per box,  locked  and  sent  to  the  deposit 
melting  room.  After  being  melted  it  is 
returned  to  the  weigh  room  and  re-weigh- 
ed and  carefully  record'^d  in  the  books  of 
the  weigh  clerk  and  registrar.  The  weigh 
clerk  then  delivers  to  the  assayer  from 
each  parcel  of  bullion  a  sufficient  portion 
for  assay. 

"As  soon  as  the  weight  aftex-  melting 
and  after  deduction  on  base  bullion  of 
which  the  alloy  contains  substance  other 
than  copper,  the  weigh  clerk  transcribes 
the  date  of  the  deposit,  name  of  the  de- 
positc^ir,  description  of  bullion,  weight  af- 
ter melting  and  deduction  upon  a  b'ank 
called  the  assayer's  report.  This  is  tak- 
en to  the  assayer.  He  inserts  the  fine- 
ness of  the  gold  and  silver  contained  in 
the  deposit.  He  also  inserts  in  his  rejyort 
the  charges  to  which  the  deposit  is  sub- 
ject. (The  charges  for  working  are  only 
the  actual  cosit).  He  then  returns  the 
report  to  the  abstract  clerk  for  calcuila- 
tioin  to  determine  the  value  of  the  deposit. 
The  correctness  of  the  calculation  mnst 
be  verified  by  the  assayer. 

A  wairrant  of  the  net  value  of  the  de- 
posit is  made  in  the  name  of  the  de- 
positor, which  the  depositor  receives  v?hen 
he  surrenders'  bis  receipt  the  second  or 
311 


I 


OUR  ALASKAN 


I  it 


I  ■ 


•  li 


;     *f 


^  i 
1; 


C1 

1 

i 


f  In 

41     1       ! 


4i, 


third  day  after  he  has  made  his  deposit. 
Accompanying  the  warrant,  which  is 
cashed  by  the  cashier,  is  a  detailed  mem- 
orandum, giving  the  loss  in  melting  fine- 
ness of  the  bullion,  ehairges  iimposed  and 
the  net  value  of  the  bullion. 

Silver  bullion  is  not  purchased  at  the 
mint,  excepting  the  small  quantities  con- 
tained iin  gold  deposits.  Silver  bullion 
can  be  received  only  on  deposit  payable 
in  fine  bars." 

There  have  been  small  quantitiee  of 
Alaisikan  and  Klondike  gold  presented  at 
the  Philadelphia  Mint,  but  the  great  mass 
of  precious  metal  from  those  regioins  finds 
its  way  into  thp  mint  at  San  Francisco. 

The  United  States  has  its  mints  at 
Philadelphia,  Pa.;  San  Francisco,  Oal.; 
New  Orleans,  La.,  and  Oarson  Oity, 
Nev.,  and  assay  oflices  at  New  York 
Oity,  Denver.  Col.;  Boise,  Idaho;  Helena, 
Montana;  Charlotte,  N.  C;  St.  Louis, 
Mo.,  and  Deadwood,  South  Dakota. 

The  coinage  operations,  however,  have 
been  discontinued  at  New  Orleans  and 
Cnrson,  work  being  limited  to  assaying. 

All  foreign  gold  received  at  the  United 
States  mints  and  assay  ofiices  is  melted 
and  assayed  before  payment  is  made  in 
United  States  gold  coin.  The  Bank  of 
Eineland  and  Bank  of  France  purchase 
United  States  gold  coin  by  weight  and 
carry  the  amount  as  part  of  the  bank's 
gold  assets.  When  gold  is  required  for 
export  to  the  United  States'  these  banks 
sell  us  gold  coin. 

The  quantity  of  preefous  metai!s  oper- 
ated upon  in  the  United  States  raimts 
and  asisay  offices  in  1897  exceeded  627 
tons  of  go"d  and  3,147  tons  of  silver. 

The  original  deposits  of  frold  aggregated 
4.676.429.404  standard  ounces,  valued  at 
$87,003,337.71,  and  of  silver  8.138,216.99 
standard  ounces,  at  a  coining  value  in 
standard  silver  dollars  of  $9,470,623.26. 

The  oflUcia!   report  of  R.   E.   Preston. 

Director  of  the  Mint,  shows  coinage  of 

:.566.290  pieces  of  gold,  value  $71,646,- 

705,  and  34,104.150  pieces  of  silver  of  the 

face  value  of  $24,327,786.65. 

The  total  product  of  the  miinea  in  the 
United  States  in  1896  was,  gold,  $53,088,- 
312 


le  his  deposit, 
t,  which  is 
detailed  mem- 
i  melting  fine^ 

I  imposed  and 
n. 

chased  at  the 
limntities  con- 
Si' ver  bullion 
jposit  payable 

quantities  of 

presented  at 

he  ^"eat  masa 

J  regioms  Snds 

II  Franclsoo. 
its  mints     at 
ancisoo,   Cal.; 

Oaraon  Oity, 
t  New  York 
daho;  Helena, 
. :    St.   Ixmas, 

Dakota. 
lowever,  havo 
Orleans  and 
to  assaying, 
at  the  United 
ces  is  melted 
it  is  made  in 
The  Bank  of 
mce  purchase 
y  weight  and 
of  the  bank's 
(  required  for 
i'  these  banks 

metal's  oper- 

Statee  raiints 
exceeded  627 

of  silver. 
I'ld  aggregated 
?es.  valued  at 
r  8.138,216.99 
ling  value  in 
►,470,623.26. 

B.  Preston, 
s^s  ooinnge  of 
ilue  $71,646,- 
f  sJUver  of  the 
15. 

miinea  in  the 
rold,  $53,088,- 


;! 


WONDERLAND 


u* 


lot 


*■ 


JV 


000;  silver,  oommercial  value,  $39,656,< 
000;  coining  value.  $76,069,000.  Im  both 
gold  and  silver  tne  United  States  pro- 
duced more  than  any  other  nation  on  the 
globe,  the  next  in  rank  beinig  Australia 
and  Africa  in  gold,  and  Mexico  and  Aus- 
tralasia in  silTer. 

The  total  coinage  of  the  United  State*, 
1897,  was,  gold,  $71,646,705;  silver  stanidr 
ard  dollars,  $21,203,701;  subsidiary  m\- 
ver,  $3,124,085.65;  total,  silver,  $24,327,- 
786.65;  nickel  and  bronze  was  $984,509.- 
59.  or  a  total'  of  new  coins  struck  off  by 
"Uncle  Sam."  $96,959,001.24.  The  to- 
tal coinage  of  the  worid  in  1896  was,  gold, 
$195,899,517;  silver,  $153,395,740. 

In  this  liat  the  United  States  again  seti 
the  pace  of  nations  and  distances  by  al- 
most one-half  the  combined  efforts  of  all 
comi>etitors  in  tihe  race. 


313 


I'     H         ! 


>  •  I 


u 


LETTER  NUMBER  XXVIII. 


A  Perplexing  Problem  in  the  De- 
velopment of  Vast  Alaskan 
Resources. 


Ocean  Steamers,  River  Steamboats 

and  Canoes  for  8nmmer--Bein- 

deer  Express  for  Winter. 


Obstacles  to  Travel  and  Traffic  Throngh 

nonntaln  PasBcs  and  O-rer^Spbag- 

nnm  Areas. 


The  pliysical  conditions  of  Alaiska  ixre- 
semt  featuires  wbicb  make  thie  meana  of 
trayel  and  transportation  a  i>ei'ploxin{? 
problem.  Lying  upon  both,  sides  of  the 
Arctic  circle,  reaching  over  1,000  statute 
nulea  to  the  south,  and  nearly  500  miles 
to  the  north  of  it,  its  climatic  conditionis 
ranee  from  excessive  humidity  to  almost 
the  limits  of  frigidity.  Its  coast  is  fringed 
with  islands,  between  which  winds  an  al- 
most incomprehiensible  net- work  of  tidal 
water  ways.  Its  interior,  much  broken  by 
loftv  mouutaius,  is  separated  from  ocean 
service  by  a  coaitimiatiou  of  the  same 
towering  range,  which  begins  at  the  ut- 
most ant-Arctic  point  of  South  America 
in  the  Andes,  and  unites  in  the  Rocky 
Const  and  St.  Elias  ranges,  in  Alaska. 

The  inland  is  alBo  traversed  by  innumer- 
able rivers,  some  ranking  among  the  larg- 
est in  the  world.  The  surface  of  Cotnti- 
uental  Alaska  is  covered  with  a  heavy 
315 


OUR  ALASKAN 


W      \l 


growth  of  Arctic  moss  and  beneath  this 
is  a  erust  frozen  fast  the  year  round  to 
an  unknuwn  depth.  Even  in  the  height 
of  summer  .hese  conditions  are  not  i"eleaa- 
eu  below  a  depth  of  two  fpet. 

In  the  face  of  such  an  array  of  physical 
facts  raih'oad  building  and  operating,  ex- 
cept by  some  yet  uninvented  method, 
would  be  ditHcult.  No  doubt  these  ob- 
stacles might  be  overcome  by  the  ingeniii- 
tv  of  the  American  mind,  but  pending  de- 
\elopment  in  population  and  iodustry 
less  expensive  methods  must  be  intro- 
duced. 

1'Tie  horse,  the  mule,  the  ox,  the  llama, 
or  nnv  of  the  l)eaists  of  burden  of  milder 
latitudes  are  unsuited.  Even  the  dog, 
which  hais  hitherto  been  the  chief  reliance 
oc  laud  of  u.-'tive,  trader,  prospector  and 
miner,  does  not  meet  the  requirements  of 
the  now  rapidly  exijanding  situation.  This 
is  due  not  only  to  his  minimum  oa;i>acity, 
bnt  is  also  owing  to  the  large  share  of 
transDortation,  in  itself  veiT  limited,  ex- 
pended in  carrying  the  animal's  own  food. 

The  dog  is  useful  only  in  winter  for 
Bletlge  travel.  No  pack  or  draught  ani- 
miil  can  traverse  Alaska  ovei*  the  soaked 
mosis-covered  land  surface  in  summer. 

The  wooden  canoe  and  biadarka  of 
mooseskin  are  the  sole  meaiis  of  interior 
travel  and  transportation  during  the  two 
or  three  months  of  summer  and  the  dog 
or  man  sled  has  been  the  only  n.  ans 
available  during  the  nine  months  of  win- 
ter. 

Since  the  menacing  diminution  of  the 
marine  and  land  food  supply  of  the  na- 
tives, the  demands  of  the  increasing 
population  engaged  in  gold  and  other  in- 
dustrial development,  and  the  conse<iuenit 
increase  of  tra\el  and  traffic,  the  only 
known  practicable  system  whif-h  can  meet 
the  winter  uecessititis  is  the  utilization  of 
the  domesticated  reindeer.  Thii  experi- 
ment commenced  under  the  auspices  of 
private  libera Ity  and  since  fostered  and  ex- 
tend o<i  by  the  Government,  has  been  one 
of  the  most  intersting  and  satisfactory  so- 
lutioas  of  nn  economic  problen:  yet  under- 
t-iken  i)y  tht  p'H>ple  and  Government  of 
the  United  States. 

316 


WONDERLAND 


nd  beneath  this 
a  year  round  to 
n  in  the  height 
IS  are  noit  i-eleaa- 
feet. 

.rray  of  physical 
id  operating,  ex- 
ivented  method, 
douibt  these  ob- 
;  by  the  mgenui- 

but  i>einding  de- 
I    and    industTy 

must    be    intro- 

le  OS,  the  llama, 
•UTden  of  milder 
Even  the  dog, 
he  chief  reliance 
,  prospector  and 

requirements  of 
g  situation.  This 
aimum  ea.]>acity, 
>  large  share  of 
revy  limited,  ex- 
imal's  own  food, 
y  in  winter  for 
or  draught  ani- 
ovea"  the  soaked 
ce  in  suoiimer. 
id  biadarka  of 
leans  of  imterior 
L  during  the  two 
ner  and  the  dog 
the   only  n^.anis 

months  of  win- 

mimition  of  the 
ipply  of  the  na- 
the  increaising 
►Id  and  other  in- 
i  the  conseTjuenit 
traffic,  the  only 
I  v.'hif'h  can  meet 
the  utilization  of 
Jr.     Thl.i  experi- 

the  auspices  of 
!  fostered  and  ex- 
nt,  has  been  one 
i  saitisfactory  so- 
oblen  yet  undeir- 

Govemment  of 


The  reliance  of  the  Government  in  the 
future  for  military,  mail  and  other  official 
purposes  and  of  the  inhabitants,  native  or 
exotic,  in  winter  for  their  convenience 
and  supply  isi  the  reindeer.  The  charac- 
teristics and  econ^nuic  value  of  these  Arc- 
tic sphagnuim-eating  iinimals,  have  been 
given  in  the  chapter  on  "Bskimo-Ameri- 
canis."  In  summer  the  fleet  steamers, 
great  and  small,  convey  passengers  and 
merchandise  along  the  ocean  coast,  tidal 
bays,  inlets,  canals,  pas'sages  and  straits. 

The  skin  kyaek  and  biadarka  and  wood- 
eu  canoes  of  the  country,  paddled  and 
pimicd  along  the  riveu-s,  have  been  supple- 
mented by  the  river  steamers  on  the 
navigable  streaims. 

The  rivers  are  the  roads  of  the  eoun- 
+■>.  It  is  not  likely  that  there  ever  will 
De  aaiy  oUx^r  on  ten-a-firma  except  in 
mountain  pa^es  on  mountain  sides  and 
over  shoit  jwrtagcs  over  the  divides  be- 
tween the  different   water  systems. 

Among  the  most  interesting  features  of 
the  topogi-aphy  is  the  extensive  s.ystem 
of  inland  water  highways  and  .short 
portages,  saving  sometimes  scores  upon 
scores  of  miles  in  reaching  disitaut  point.<». 

This  is  forciby  illustrated  in  South- 
eastern Alaska  where  a  portage  of  2;^ 
miles  will  cairiy  traffic  or  travel  from  tide- 
water at  Dyoa  to  the  \vi\d  of  eanue  navi- 
gation acro-ss  th<'  Chilkoot  Pass  in  the 
Coast  range  at  Lake  Lindeman  at  the 
headwat<-rs  of  tlie  Yukon,  .\hont  KKS 
miles  tnrther  on  tanoes  will  reach  Lake 
Labairge  below  the  dangerous  White 
Horse  Itapids.  Thence  small  river  ciaft, 
paddle  or  steam,  car,  proceed  with  siafety 
'0  the  sea  nearly  2,0(X)  miles  distant,  pass- 
ing en  route  the  rich  Upi>er  Yukon  placer 
regions  of  Klondike  and  Alaska. 

The  oceani  and  Yukon  route  for  the 
trinsx>ortailon  of  travel  and  merchandise 
is  by  far  the  best,  at  present  at  least. 

Starting  at  Sin  l<>an.'isco  it  is  2.3ri9 
miles  to  Unnl.rskn;  770  miles  to  St.  Mich- 
ael; .^)0()  miles  on  tl;e  Yukon  to  Circle  City, 
the  meitro]M''iis  of  the  Ui  ited  States  Kircli 
Oeek  mi'  .  s;  ,350  miles  t(>  Forty-.Mile,  and 
50  miles  to  Dawson^  the  netroiuilis  of  the 
Klondike  nlacers,  or  a  total  of  4.030 
miles.  The  distance  from  Portland 
317 


ijj|t^»r  - 


t;ii     ft  ill       r 


OUR  a.LA8KAN 

would  lie  shortor,  ami  from  Seattle  414 
miles  8lu>iter  than  from  Sail  Francisco. 

Tlio  Ynivoii  route,  except  from  June  to 
September,  is  not  fea'*il)le.  But  during 
that  period  it  is  decidetlly  the  umat  com- 
fortable and  convenient,  and  all  things 
considered,  by  far  the  cheapest. 

Tlie  cabin  and  second-class  rates  of  fare 
are  reasonable,  and  will  doubtless  be 
cheaper  in  view  of  comiietition. 

The  al'.owaJice  O'f  baggaare,  outfit  and 
supplies  fret>  is  liberal.  Extra  supplies 
ia  any  (luautity  can  be  taken,  if  paid  for 
as  freight.  Also  a  large  quantity  of 
sioires  will  always  be  found  on  hand,  not 
only  by  the  trading  companies  but  by  mer- 
chants engaged  in  the  ordinaiT  walks  of 
trade. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  St.  Michael,  if 
the  placers  of  the  Upper  Yukon  be  suc- 
ceeded by  the  discorery  of  the  gold  lodes 
from  wliichi  they  derived  their  supplies  un- 
doubtedly hy  glacial  action,  will  bwome 
a  "city"  of  considerable  population  and 
extensive  trade,  ocean,  coastwise  and  in- 
land. 

It  is  aln-eady  the  motropolis  of  the  Arc- 
tic regions  of  the  westei-n  side  of  the 
American  liemiisi)here,  and  is  destined  to 
be  till'  most  important,  if  not  the  only 
community  of  any  size  on  the  northern 
cap  of  the  globe. 

In  the  winter,  even  though  sihut  off 
from  ocean  communication  on  account  of 
ice,  thcrS"  will  be  maintaiueil  reindeer 
communication  down  the  coast  with 
steamer  points. 

The.«»>  fleet  and  hardy  animals,  driven 
by  United  Stales  Eskimos  in  light  ser- 
vice, make  their  80  to  100  miles  a  day 
and  fceil  tlKMUselves.  For  freighting  a 
singli'  animal  can  draw  on  a  sled  300  to 
.^)00  iHvunds. 

The  same  months  of  "closed  season"  at 
St.  Michael  finds  the  Coast  rang« 
pass  routes  difficult  and  danger- 
ous if  not  impassable  for  even 
travel  for  more  than  small  par- 
ties and  even  for  them  the  trip  is  fool- 
hardy on  acwunt  of  the  terrifi'^  blizzard;* 
which  sweep  for  dsiyv.  at  a  time  over 
thi  se  passes  carrying  with  tlieni  enoriuoiH 

318 


.J 


WONDERLAND 


m  Scattk  414 
111  FraiM^isco. 
;  from  June  to 
But  during 
the  moat  cora- 
nu\  all  things 
lost. 

•u  rates  of  fare 
doubtless      be 
tion. 

ire,  outfit  and 
Extra  supplies 
eu,  if  paid  for 
!  quantity  of 
I  on  hand,  not 
es  but  by  mer- 
naiy  walks  of 

?t.  Micliael,  if 
t^ukon  he  suc- 
the  gold  lodes 
ir  8U7)i>lies  lui- 
I,  will  bwome 
opulatlon  aud 
stwise  and  in- 

is  of  the  Arc- 

1    side   of    the 

is  destined  to 

not  the  omly 

the  northern 

ugh  s'hut  off 
m  account  of 
iuetl  reindeer 
coast     with 

iinals.  driven 
in  light  ser- 
in iles  a  day 
freighting     a 
a  slid  300  to 

^d  season"  at 
oast     rango 
lid      danger- 
for      even 
small      par- 
trip  is  f(>ol- 
ifi'  blizzards 
a    time  over 
[Mil  cnuriuouij 


falls  of  snow  which  drive  in  great  masses. 
In  the  spring  and  siummer  months  the 
miners  go  in,  but  their  return  gold  ladeu 
or  "busted,"  as  the  umpire  fortune  has 
decreed,  is  down  the  cuirrenit  of  the  Yukon 
to  St.  Michael  with,  the  ice  in  spring  or 
the  flood  in  summer. 

The  introduction  of  an  adequate  river 
steamer  service  will  at  once  open  the  great 
valley  of  the  Yukon  to  development  in  the 
lines  of  industry  to  which  it  is  adapted  by 
nature,  gold  lending  thie  way. 

In  the  earlier  days  the  different  points 
of  the  interior  were  connected  by  trails 
which  were  used  by  the  bardy  hunters 
and  traders.  The  Dalton  Trail,  one  of 
the  moist  famous,  began  at  the  Chilkait 
River  at  the  heiad  of  that  inlet  of  Lynn 
CanaJ,  about  60  miles  weist  of  Dyea,  and 
after  travensing  over  three  degrees  of 
latitude,  about  225  miles,  struck  the 
Yukon  at  Foi-t  Selkirk  at  the  junction  of 
the  Lewis  and  Pelly  rivers. 

The  Rivers  Copper  and  Tanian.a,a  braiueh 
of  the  Yukon;  Copper  a.nd  Sushitna;  Tan- 
ona  and  the  White,  and  Sushitna  and. 
Kuskokwim,aind  the  Kuskokwim  and  Yu- 
kon, thie  latter  only  six  miles  apart,  are 
connected  by  short  trails  by  means  of 
which  the  natives  caiU  portage  their 
biadarkas  and  effects  from  one  river  sys- 
tem to  the  othei'  during  their  summer  pur- 
suit of  game. 

The  most  remarkable  of  the  portage 
routes  of  Alaiska  which  would  be  prompt- 
ly utilized  should  the  development  of  tbfe 
region  north  of  the  Alaskan  PeniuisuJa  de- 
mand quicker  facilities  of  intercourse,  is 
»ne  of  25  miles  from  Cook  Inlet,  oi)po8ite 
the  active  volcano  of  Augustine  Island 
to  Lake  Iliamna  and  thence  into  Bristol 
Bay  on  the  nwth  side  by  the  Kvicpak 
River,  a  distan<*e  of  about  1.50  miles.  The 
journey  do".-n  the  peninsula  alone  to  the 
usual  p&ss  for  vessels  through  the  Aleu- 
tian Islands,  is  not  less  than  450  miles. 

It  is  easier,  however,  for  the  gold  seek* 
era  of  "the  States"  to  reach  the  placers 
of  the  Upper  Yukon  either  by  the  coast 
range  passes  or  St.  Michlael,  than  it  was 
for  t^e  "Forty-niners"  to  reach  the 
placers  of  California    in  their  day.    It  is 


I 


319 


;1     ,f'     7-3= 


}"\ 


I  ^ 


OUR  ALASKAN 

infiaitely  lees  dangerous,  as  there  are  no 
savage,  scalping  enemies,  nor  isthmian 
fevers  to  he  encountered.  The  only  dan- 
gersi  aiP©  those  incident  to  an  arctic  win- 
ter, which  can  be  overcome  with  suitable 
clothing  and  ample  food. 

The  cost  of  the  necessaries  of  life  in  all 
cas»es  is  measured  by  the  oo»t  of  produc- 
tion and  handiling  plus  the  cost  of  trans- 
portatioo  to  point  of  consvmiptiou.  The 
iwices  at  Sitka,  Juueau  or  other  points  ac- 
cessible to  steamers  at  aU  seasons  o<f  the 
year  are  not  unreasonable.  Flour  at 
Sitka  at  $6  a  barrel  will  bring  $24  on  the 
Klondike.  Pork,  40  cents  a  pound,  and 
all  other  articles  in  that  proportion. 
Lime  juice  for  scurvy,  the  bane  of  the 
mining  camps,  is  not  dear  a^  $2.50  a  gal- 
ton..  This  difference  is  due  entirely  to 
diflSculties  of  tpansportaition. 

A  grown  native  packer,  weiglhing  aboait 
140  pounds,  Willi  carry  from  100  to  130 
pounds,  and  boys  12  to  14  years  of  age, 
from  50  to  70  pounds.  The  women  carry 
aJimost  as  much  as  the  men. 

The  human  packers  can  be  utilized  to 
advantage  only  in  tbe  mountain  passes 
and  for  aihiort  distances.  Prom  10  to  25 
miles  a  day  under  favorable  conditions  is 
the  limit.  Their  food  is  an  important 
item  of  weight. 

The  establisliment  of  packing  routes 
from  tide  water  to  oanoe  navigation  over 
the  passes  woould  obviate  mudi  fo«(l 
transportation,  as  the  packers  will  then 
have  halting  stations  and  reliefs.  This 
method  costs  alone  from  15  to  30  cents  a 
poomd  from  tide  to  canoe  waters  over 
the  coast  range. 

The  packing  by  mules  witih  the  improve- 
ment of  the  trails  woiuld  be  feasible  in 
summer  through  the  passes  only,  but  not 
under  existing  conditions  in  the  open 
country  of  the  mainland. 

The  best  animal  will  transport  200  to 
250  pounds,  a  large  portion,  of  which  will 
be  taken  up  J"  food  for  itself  and  will 
cover  no  more  distance  than  a  man  in  a 
day  and  only  for  short  portages. 

The  dog  will  carry  about  33  pounds  for 
short  distances  and  25  pounds  all  day  iu 

320 


il  t 


U  "?^ 


WONDllBLAND 


t  there  ore  no 
nor  istbmian 
rhe  only  dan- 
m  arctic  win- 
with  suitabJe 

«  of  life  in  all 
asit  of  produc- 
cost  of  trans- 
nuption.  The 
thea*  points  ac- 
seasoos  o<f  the 
le.  FloTir  at 
ing  $24  on  the 

a  pound,  and 
t  praportion. 
e  bane  of  the 
at  $2.50  a  gal- 
ue  entirely  to 
on. 

veiglhing  aboait 
)m  100  to  130 
:  years  of  age, 
e  women  carry 
u 

be  utilized  to 
>untain  paasea 
Prom  10  to  25 
le  conditions  is 

an  important 

jacking  routes 
lavigation  over 
e  much  fo«fl 
'kers  will  then 
reliefs.  This 
5  to  30  cents  a 
e   waters  over 

tih  the  improve- 
be  feasible  in 

s  only,  but  not 
in   the     open 

ansporb  200  to 

[1  of  which  will 

tself    and  will 

an  a  man  in  a 

ortages. 

:  33  pounds  for 

unds  all  day  iu 


summer  on  very  little  food.  The  species 
is  about  20  inches  high  and  somewhat  re- 
sembles the  "Spitz"  breed. 

The  dog  industry  has  been  the  subject 
of  interesting  olficial  communication  with 
the  United  States  Dei>air!tment  of  State 
by  the  United  States  Oonsnl  at.  Van- 
couver, British  Columbia,  who  has  report- 
ed the  arrival  before  Januairy,  1898,  of 
over  300  trained  draught  dogs,  purchased 
h]y  enterpirising  individuals  in  Belgium, 
Hoiiand,  Newfoundl'aud  and  at  other 
points  where  this  faithful  animal  is  used 
a«9  a  means  of  trtansportation.  They 
broiugbt  from  $15.00  and  upwards  a  dog, 
and  were  sihipixsl  to  Dyea  and  Skajfuay 
Pass  routes.  Their  food  oonsists  of  bis« 
euits  or  dried  salmon,  and  not  in  large 
quantities. 

The  reindeer  cannot  be  utilized  in  sum- 
mer. In  wirater  where-ver  moss  grows  one 
of  these  valuable  animals,  combining  all 
the  quailities  of  man,  horse,  mule,  ox  and 
dog  for  burden,  and  clean  animals  for 
food  flesh  and  milk  and  clothing,  will 
transport  on  a  sled  at  one  time  more  than 
man,  mufe  and  dog  combined,  will 
traverse  from  three  to  five  times  the  dis- 
tance, will  feed  and  care  for  itself  at  the 
end  of  the  journey  and  in  an  extremity 
will  furnish  food,  which  sometimes  con- 
stitutes the  last  thread  of  re.ief  and 
safety. 

The  utilization  of  the  reindeer  as  a 
means  of  tranisportatioa  wUl  also  be 
adapted  to  the  transportation  of  the  mails 
and  will  therefore  be  of  immense  value  to 
trade  and  commerce.  The  increasing 
number  of  whalers  which  winter  at 
Herschell  Island,  oif  the  British-Cana- 
dian Ai'ctic  coast,  about  midway  between 
Mackenzie  Bay  on  the  east  and  the  in- 
ternational boundary  toward  the  w:s1:, 
the  United  States  stations  at  Poin^  Bar- 
row, and  the  mines  of  the  Upper  Yukon 
can  thufi  be  brought  into  mail  communi- 
cation with  the  outer  world  during  the 
long  aictie  winter,  moaning  thousands  in 
money  to  the  trading  and  other  com- 
panies of  the  "States"  interested  in  Alas- 
kan induistriai  operations, 
321 


'■  ,' 


I  1 


OUR  ALASKAN 

The  feasibility  of  tlie  scheme  is  un- 
doubted. Tlie  reindeer  mail  and  light 
transportation  frv>m  the  whaling  fleet  to 
the  Fort  Yukon,  500  miles,  takin«  in 
the  settlements  on  the  way  and  thence 
about  8(H)  mlliis  along  the  Upper  Yukon 
to  Selkirk  and  tlienco  ouAvanl  over  the 
Coast  range  to  the  open  ports  of  South- 
eastern! Alaska,  aci-^wsible  by  ocean 
sfeauiera.  would  constitute  ouio  route. 

From  Point  Barrow  along  the  coast  to 
the  southward,  at  intervals  of  200  to 
500  miles  are  trading,  fishing  and  nois- 
sionary  stations.  The  Point  Barrow 
United  States  Whaling,  Refuge  and  Sig- 
nal Stations,  Presbyterian  Mission  and 
Government  schools  could  be  brought  into 
communication  by  reindeer  exiwess,  300 
laiies  to  Point  Hope,  north  of  Kotzebue 
Sound,  also  a  whaling  station  and  Epis- 
copal Mission;  thence  southeast  500  mites 
to  Nulatoon  the  Yukon  as  a  central  point. 

The  Bering  Strait's  Reindeer  Express 
might  es'tablish  intercourse  from  Cape 
Prince  of  Wales,  the  Congregational  Mis- 
sion, the  central  reindeer  station  of  Port 
Clarence,  the  Golovin  Bay  Swedish  Mis- 
sion, to  Nttlato,  on  the  Point  Barrow 
route. 

The  i-eiiidoer  trunk  route  proceeding 
thence  on  its  southward  route  could  pick 
up  the  mails  at  a  number  of  trading  po«ta 
and  mission  stations,  creasing  the  Penin- 
sula of  Alaska  to  Katmai,  on  Shelikoff 
Straits,  a  distance  of  500  miles,  where  it 
would  connect  witli  the  regular  steam- 
ship line  to  San  Francisco. 

Another  route  taking  its  start  at  Nusha- 
gak  or  Carmel,  on  Bristol  Bay,  a  Mora- 
vian Mission  and  school,  a  Russo-Greek 
Mission  and  location  of  several  large  can- 
neries, might  take  on  tlie  way  the  Mora- 
vian stati'on  at  Quinehaha  and  salmon 
canneries  near  Bethel,  a  Moravian  Mis- 
.«»ioa  and  trading  station  400  miles  distant. 
Theno(>  up  tlio  Kuiskokwim  taking  in  sev- 
eral missions  and  thence  across  to  the 
Yukon  at  Ikogmuto.  thence  up  the  Y'ukon 
touching  severai  points  by  way  of  Anvik, 
to  St.  Mioliao:  ;ind  Uniilaklik.  to  Xuiato, 
about  500  miles  from  Bethel. 

;;22 


ISA  1 


WONDERLAND 


scheme  ia  un- 
all  and  light 
phaling  fleet  to 
les.  takin«  iu 
■ay  and  thence 
■  Upper  Yukon 
vanl  over  the 
[)orts  of  South- 
l)lc  by  ocean 
!  oiw  route, 
ug  the  coast  to 
'al9  of  200  to 
shing  and  mis- 
Point  Barrow 
:efiige  and  Sig- 
n  MissJon  and 
be  brought  into 
H"  exiwess,  300 
;h  of  Kotzebue 
ition  and  Bpis- 
beast  500  mifes 
a  central  point, 
indeer  Express 
se  from  Cape 
regational  Mis- 
statiou  of  Port 
r  Swedish  Mia- 
Point     Barrow 

ite  proceeding 
3Ute  could  pick 
)f  trading  posts 
ling  the  Penin- 
i,  on  Shelikoff 
miles,  where  it 
regular  steam- 
start  at  Nusha- 
Bay,  a  Mora- 
a  Russo-Greek 
reirai  large  can- 
way  the  Mora- 
and  salmon 
Moravian  Mis- 

0  miles  distant. 

1  taking  iu  sev- 
a cross  to  the 

3  up  the  Yukon 
way  of  Anvik, 

:lik.  to  Nulato, 
hel. 


m 


This  would  maJke  Nulato  the  central  re- 
ceiving and  distributing  point  for  the 
reindeer  system  from  Point  Barrow,  Oape 
PrSnce  of  Wales,  Carmel  and  the  Yukon 
trunk  lines.  Thence  it  would  continue  to 
JSt.  James'  Epi'scoi>al  Misision,  200  niilew 
up  the  Yukon,  thence  to  Fort  Yukon,  250 
miles,  connecting  with  the  line  from  the 
whaling  lleeit,  thence  to  Circle  (Mty, 
the  Alaskan  and  Dawson,  City,  the  Klon- 
dike mining  stations,  thence  to  steamer 
point  on  Lynn  Canal  in  Soutlheasrtern 
Alaska.  T^e  trunk  line  with  branches 
wouJd  give  a  reindeer  route  of  4,000 
miles.  The  Katmai  and  Nutcheck  routes 
1,000  miles  more. 

With  ocean  and  river  steamers  in  sum- 
mer and  reindeer  routes  iai  the  winter, 
the  transportation  question  iu  Alaska  will 
be  shorn  of  many  of  its  complications  and 
hardships. 

There  are  reconnoisauees  now  being 
made  iu  expectation  of  finding  an  over- 
land route  entirely  on  United  States  soil 
to  the  United  States  gold  mines  on  Forty 
Mile,  Birch  and  other  rivers  in  order  to 
minimize  the  length  and  cos^t  of  land 
transportation. 

The  Cook  Inlet  route  by  the  Sushitna 
and  portage  to  the  Tanana  is  supposed 
to  afford  such  a  route.  Tlie  distance 
across  doos  not  exceed  300  miles.  From 
the  lake  in  which  the  Sushitna  rises  to 
the  nearest  point  on  the  Tanana  does  not 
exceed  50  miles.  The  Tanana  enters  the 
Yukon  at  St.  James'  Mission,  many  miles 
above  its  mouth.  T^e  Copper  River  also 
affords  a  route  with  a  short  portage  to  the 
Yukon.  A  route  from  the  coast  near 
Mount  St.  Eiias  to  the  White  River  tribu- 
tai-y  of  the  Yukon  above  the  Klondike  is 
being  explored.  If  possible  it  will  be  the 
shortest  distance  from  the  coast  across 
couniti-y,  not  exceeding  300  miles.  The 
absence  of  a  harbor  would  be  an  objec- 
tion, but  the  route  wonld  save  enormously 
in  transiK)rtaitioin  iu  limited  amouJits. 
Y'akutat  Harbor  niig'ht  be  utilizedj  al- 
though  a  little  east. 

The  War  Department  has  organized  a 
military  expedition  up  the  Copper  River 
to  map  out  the  topography  of  the  river 
323 


I'i 


\\ 


iir^ 


OVR  ALASKAN 

now  little  known  and  to  finally  establish 
the  value  of  that  route  to  the  gold  field 
of  Alaska  and  Klondike. 

It  will  always  be  necessary  for  indi- 
riduals  or  trading  companies  to  carry  at 
least  one  year's  supply  of  food  in  the  Yu- 
kon region,  or,  in  fact,  any  portion  of 
Alaska  north  of  Unaiaska  until  other 
facilities  of  communication  are  introduced 
for  intand  water  transporta'tion.  This 
may  be  accomplished  only  by  reindeer 
carrying  companies  in  wirater. 

The  question  of  outfit  is  a  leading  one. 
This  at  present  can  be  accomplished  at 
any  of  the  points  of  departure  of  steamer 
lines  from  "the  States."  The  almost  in- 
surmountable obstacle  is  tihe  means  of  its 
tranexKwtation  to  destination. 

In  every  direction  efforts  are  being 
made  to  solve,  as  much  as  possible,  by  ap- 
pliances on  land  this  difficult  problem. 
The  brevity  of  the  seasom  of  inland  river 
navigation  alone  stands  in  the  way.  If 
the  future  development  of  the  Yukon  and 
other  regions  justify  it  a  sufficient  ac- 
cumulation of  food  and  merchandise  at 
St.  Miehiaeli  for  the  winter  reindeer  dis- 
tribution on  tihe  Yukon  from  all  the  year 
round  ocean  ports  on  the  coast  south  of 
the  Alaskan  Peninsula  for  the  Copper  and 
White  River  overland  winter  reindeer 
routes  to  the  Yukon  mining  towns  and 
camps  now  being  explored,  would  im- 
mensely simplify  the  situation.  Th« 
coast  range  pass  routes  for  winter  trans- 
portation can  hardly  be  utilized,  not  only 
on  account  of  the  terrific  and  prolonged 
storms  of  wind  and  snow  in  the  passes 
themselves,  but  n\m  on  account  of  the 
impassible  condition  of  the  rivers  beyond 
except  in  summer. 

The  tunnelling  of  the  passes  would  be 
feasible,  but  would  hardly  be  justifiable 
as  a  business  pn>position  until  population 
and  industry  were  permanently  establish- 
ed in  the  region. 

At  present  more  time  and  money  is  con- 
sumed in  trnvpl  and  transiportntion  of 
outfits  reduced  to  the  lowest  limit  from  the 
coast  at  .Tuneau,  Dvea  and  Skaguay 
over  the  Ohilkoot  and  White  Passes.  130 

32-1 


ir 


WONDIHRLAND 


aally  establish 
the  gold  field 

ssary  for  indi- 
ies  to  carry  at 
'ood  in  the  Yu- 
my  jwrtion  of 
ca  until  other 
are  initrodu<?ed 
ta'tion.  This 
V  by  reindeer 
alter. 

a  leading  one. 
joompHsh'ed  at 
lire  of  steamer 
rh©  almost  in- 
le  means  of  its 
on. 

arts  are  being 
Ktssible,  by  ap- 
3 cult  problem, 
of  inland  river 
I  the  way.  If 
the  Yukon  and 

BuflScient  ac- 
lerehiandise  at 
r  reindeer  dis- 
m  all  the  year 
eoast  south'  of 
he  Copper  and 
nter  reindeer 
ng  towns  and 
>d,  would  im- 
iiation.        Th«( 

winter  trans- 

lizpd,  not  onJy 

and  prolonged 

in  the  passes 

coount  of  the 

rivers  beyond 

sses  would  be 

be  justifiable 

itil  population 

ntly  cataWish- 


mi'.es  to  the  head  of  Lake  Labarge,  at  the 
head  of  possible  stream  navigation  on  the 
Upper  Yukon,  than  is  required  from  the 
Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  coaM  and  thence  by 
steamer  to  the  ocean  ports  named  on 
Lynn  Canal. 

And  still  beyond  Labarge  is  a  stretch 
of  river  transpoi'tatiou  of  247  miles  from 
Selkirk  and  3U5  miles  moore  to  Circle 
City. 

There  is  no  question  with  the  problem 
of  transportation  brought  up  to  the  same 
capacity  as  the  facilities  of  the  open 
water  and  a  corresponding  economy  of 
toil  and  cheapness  of  rartes,  the  Chilkoot 
White  Pass  and  St.  Michael  water  routes 
would  absroir»b  practically  the  etrutire  Upper 
Yukon  trave;  and  traffic. 

Oapt.  P.  H.  Ray,  representing  the  War 
Department,  reported  from  Alaiska,  1898, 
that  the  greater  part  of  the  Yukon  gold 
l)elt  is  in  United  States  territoa-y  in  thie 
Upper  Raimpai't  Range  and  along  the 
Tanaiua  River,  Minook  Birch,  Forty  Mile 
oreeks.  United  States  Courier  Wells  adds 
Sixty  and  Seventy  Mile  creeks,  the  Coi>per 
and  Suishitra  rivers,  the  latter  prominent 
through  Cook  Inlet  placers.  On  the  Kus- 
kokwim  explorations  will  also  develop  im- 
mense minea*al  wealth,  judging  from  na- 
tive reports  and  surface  indications.  Capt. 
Ray  suggested  that  a  railroad  from  the 
head  of  Cook  Inlet  or  Prince  William 
Sound  to  the  mouth  of  the  Tanana,  thence 
by  steamer  in  summer  on  the  Yukon  and 
tributaries  and  Reindeer  Express  in  win- 
ter, would  solve  the  problem  of  an  all- 
winter  route  to  open  ocean  connections, 
aind  would  control  the  entire  trade  of  the 
region  against  Canadian  competition. 

[For  Official  Table  of  Distances  See 
Page  352.] 


money  is  con- 
tsportn+ion  of 
limit  frOin  the 
ind  Skaguay 
e  Passes.  130 


325 


a 


m 


B  ^ 


/;, 


I    11 


(!' 


(!■■ 


^V 


h 


I 


Alaskanlldminlslration 


OurtlaskanWonderland 


LETTER  NUMBER  XXIX. 


While  Government  Lagged,  Vasi 
Wealth  Advanced  Apace. 

Departmental  Efficiency  and  Mis- 
sionai'v  Zeal. 


A  Maasacre  Averted  'Mirongh  the  Lo^al- 
ty  of  a  Native  Cblef. 


In  our  story,  "Unfurling  the  Flag/'  the 
pomp  and  cireumstance  of  territorial 
transitioa  from  Russian  to  United  Sbatea 
jurisdiction  was  portrayed  in  detail. 

ThjC'  little  army  of  occupa'tiom  consisit- 
ing  of  256  officers  and  men  of  tlio  Second 
United  States  Artillery  and  Niiah  United 
States  Infantry,  under  Brevet  Major  Gen- 
eraJ  Jefferson  G.  Davis,  colonel  Twenty- 
third  United  States  Infantry,  left  Sna 
Francisco,  California,  September  24lih, 
1867,  for  New  Archlangel,  the  seat  of  Rus- 
sian government  and  was  ftfllowed  by  the 
United  States  Steamer  Osajpee,  bearing 
the  comimiseioners  and  a  representative  of 
the  Russian  Fur  Gompany,  wliich  then 
held  a  tnading  license  from  the  imperial 
goveminent 

On  October  29th,  the  troops,  which  had 
retvimed  to  the  transport  to  await  the  de- 
parture of  the  Russian  officials  and  sol- 
diers, ag«in  landed  and  the  post  of  Sitka 
was  established  with  General  Davis  in 
ooonmand  of  t!he  district  of  Alaska. 

The  natives,  sullen  and  hostile,  ait  first, 
under  the  firm  oouise  of  Generail'  Davis, 
sustained  by  the  menacing  guns  of  the 
battery  goon  dhanged  their  attitude  to 
frieudsihip  and  submission. 
327 


OVR  ALASKAN 


tl 


') 


Jl     'i' 


pi 


In  the  apring  of  1808  a  new  site  for  the 
Sitka  past  was  locaited  on  Adtnirality 
laliand.  Another  post  was  established  on 
the  southeustem  end  of  Tongass  Island, 
near  the  fighting  line  of  54-40,  called  Fort 
Tongas»,  to  prevent  smiiggliug,  and  a 
third  on  the  northwestern  extremity  of 
Wriamgel  laland,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Stickeen  River,  called  Fort  Wrangel,  to 
prevent  illicit  trade  with  the  Indians  and 
to  preserve  the  peace  between  the  Britiah 
and  American  tribes  trading  or  fishing  in 
the  vicinity  of  tihe  frontier  channels. 

In  1868  four  moaie  batteries  of  the  Sec- 
ond Artillery  were  sent  to  Aliaska  and  diis- 
tributed  among  the  posts.  In  the  same 
year  Fort  Kadiiak  waa  establi-rfied  at  St. 
Paul  on  the  northeastern  poii-c  of  Kadiak 
Island,  wliich,  however,  was  reduced  in 
April,  1869,  for  the  old  Russian  fort,  St. 
Nidholas,  an  the  Oook  Inlet  side  of  Kenai 
Peninsula,  wihieh  received  the  name  Ke- 
nai. 

A  sm'all'l  detachmemt  was  also  dispatched 
to  tlie  Pribilof  fur  seal  islands  of  St.  Paul 
and  St  George,  which  had  been  made  a 
public  reserve  by  resolution  of  Congress. 

The  act  of  July  27th,  1808,  waj  the  first 
move  of  Congress  toward  cdvil  administm- 
tion  by  making  Alaska  a  customs  collec- 
tion disitriat,  prohibiting  the  "sale  of  fire- 
arms, ammunition  and  distilled  spirits" 
and  applying  to  it  the  laws  of  Oregon. 

The  United  States  ship  Saginaw  and 
•evepal  revenue  cutters  patrolled  the 
Alaskan  Gulf  and  Bering  Sea. 

In  1870  the  troops  at  Tongass,  Wrangel, 
Kadiak,  Kenai,  Srt.  Paul  and  St.  George 
were  Called  in.  On  October  7th,  1870, 
the  garrison  at  Sitka  alone  represented 
the  army  im  Alaska,  and  the  Department 
of  Alacska  was  discontinued. 

For  the  next  five  years  there  was  little 
duty  for  the  army. 

The  Treasury  Departmenit  waa  now  in 
control,  maintaining  a  customs  and  reve- 
nue collector  at  Sitka. 

TTie  discovery  of  gold  in  1875  along  the 
Stikeen  River  attracted  thitheir  a  rush  of 
miners  and  a  thouisaiud  Indians  of  the  val- 
ley. These  inharmonious  elemenits  led  to 
328 


new  site  for  the 

on  Admirality 
18  established  on 

TongaSiS  Island, 
.4-40,  called  Fort 
muggliug,  and  a 
•n  extremity  of 
le  mouth  of  the 
'ort  Wrangel,  bo 

the  Indians  and 
ween  the  Britisih 
ling  or  fishing  in 
>r  channels, 
eries  of  the  Sec- 
*  Ailiasika  and  diis- 
s.  In  the  same 
atabli'jhed  at  St. 

IXkii^c  of  Kadiak 
vaa  reduced  in 
[iussiaai  fort,  St. 
let  side  of  Kenai 
id  the  name  Ke- 

is  also  dispatched 
lands  oif  St.  Paul 
lad  been  made  a 
ion  of  Congress. 
J68,  waj  the  first 

civil  admlnistm- 
i  cuistoms  coUec- 
the  "sale  of  fire- 
distilled  spirits" 
ivs  of  Oregon, 
ip  Saginaw  and 
s  patrolled  th« 
5  Sea. 
jngass,  Wrangel, 

and  St.  Greorge 
tober  7th,  1870, 
lonie  represented 

the  Department 
led. 
»  there  was  little 

lenit  waa  now  in 
istoms  and  rev©- 

n  1875  along  the 
thither  a  ruBh  of 
idians  of  the  vaJ- 
i  elemeuts  led  to 


W 


I  w 


)'\ 


Pi   i 

^1   i 


r  I  11  . 


■'« 


rr 


\i 


>  >   , 


T 


WONDERLAND 


th*^  re-establishment  of  Fort   ,\'mng«l  in 
that  year. 

The  outbreak  of  the  Nez  Peroe  ludiana 
"in  the  Sbites"  in  1877  caused  the  htirried 
departure  of  the  garrisons  at  Sitka  and 
Wrangel  in  June  of  that  year. 

The  labor  riots  Mev  and  the  inadequate 
numbers  of  the  ^rmy  terminated  the  mili- 
tary occupation  of  Alaska. 

For  nearly  a  year  after  this  enormoaifl 
territory,  hiaving  an  area  equal  to  tei\ 
average  States  of  tihe  Union,  was  govern- 
ed by  the  United  States  Treasury  Depart- 
ment through  a  deputy  collector,  supported 
by  a  small  amiamenit  of  two  oases  of 
rifles  and  two  Cuses  of  ammunitiot;,  TT'hich 
had  been  shipped  to  the  Sitka  office. 

In  July,  1878,  a  collecto..  '  f  customs  lii- 
T'  sted  with  the  additional  functions  of 
probate  judge  put  in  an  appearance. 

In  1879  the  Sitka  natives,  noticing  th« 
neglect  of  the  Waslhirgton  Govemiment 
armed  and  organized  for  a  raid  on  the 
waite  settlement  for  murder  and  plunder. 
BuL  .brthe  friendly  aid  of  a  native  leader, 
Onnahootz  and  his  Kokwaton  followers, 
the  blocdy  intent  of  the  Sitka  tribes  would 
doubtless  have  been  carried  out  and  the 
blood  of  the  unioffending  victi  as  would 
kive  been  upon  the  Congr^  ss  of  the 
United  States. 

The  Washington  autbcrities  now  for  a 
short  time  reduced  United  States  citizens 
on  their  own  soil  to  the  humiUating  atti- 
tude of  seeking  and  acepting  foreign 
protection  until  the  Unitetl  States  Steam- 
er Alaska  came  to  their  relief. 

After  this  experience  Alaska  was  prac- 
tically in  the  oustody  of  the  Nary  Depart- 
ment. These  officers  were  active  in  re- 
pressing the  natives  and  particularl'y  in 
suppressing  the  manufacture  of  a  fighting 
and  murdeirous  rum  called  Hoo-chi-noo; 
freeing  those  held  in  bondage  and  putting 
fix  end  to  the  atrocities  of  the  natives 
against  the  so-ealled  witches. 

Tlie  naval  regime  was  also  characterized 
by  the  officers  assi*ting  and  encourxging 
the  Protestant  missionaries  who  began 
their  liabors  as  early  as  1877,  by  the  es- 
tablishment of  religious  worship,  chuiches 
and  schools. 

329 


M' 


,M 


4 


OUR  ALASKAN 

Uurler  tlie  naval  regime  tliorf  was  a 
feeling  of  security  wbicjh  soon  eiicouraged 
the  prospector  to  start  iu  search  of  rich 
placers  in  the  interior,  w'lhile  others  were 
developing  quurtz  lodes  near  Sitka.  The 
fidb,  industry  also  began  to  show  sigud  of 
enterprise. 

Altiiongh  the  army  was  never  officially 
released  from  duty  in  Alaska,  the  peace- 
ful condition  of  affairs  did  not  demand  its 
preseace  until  the  discovery  of  gold  on  the 
upper  Yukon,  and  more  recently  or  ^ 
Klondike,  requiring  the  return  of  a  ;  la.i 
force  for  operations  on  the  American  bn.'- 
of  the  line. 

To  the  inertness  of  Congress  is  entirely 
due  the  many  obstacles  which  have  been 
encountered  in  the  development  of  the 
inarvelcus  resources  of  Alaska.  This  was 
imrtieularly  the  caise  with  respect  to  the 
public  lands  in  early  years.  The  attempts 
of  citizens  of  the  United  States  to  secure 
preemption  rights  to  landij  at  Sitka  tnd 
elsewhere  were  ignoi'^d.  The  valuable 
forests  accordingly  were  being  despcJed 
and  agriculture  without  tenure  in  the  soil 
was  paralyzed. 

In  looking  back  over  the  period  since 
Alaska  first  came  under  the  jurisdiction 
of  civilized  govei-nmetat  we  find  a  steady 
progression  of  events  beginning  with 

1728-41— Discoveries  of  Vitus  Bering 
and  others. 

1781-8— St.  Paul  on  Kadiak  Is:aml  es- 
tablishtyd  and  made  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment of  Ne\p  Russia. 

1787 — Mainland  occupied. 

1790— Shelikof  Trading  Company  creat- 
e<l  Chief  directors  ami  <'X-officio  governors 
— Delaref.     1792— Alexander  Baranof. 

1799— Russian-American  Far  Company 
organized  Governors— Baranof,  Hagen- 
nieister.  1820— Muravief.  1825— Christak- 
of.  1831— Wrangel.  1836— Kapreanof. 
1840-EtoIin.  1848— Woiwodsky.  1860 
— Furujeln. 

1804— Exteusioji  of  Rnssiau-Amerioan 
Fur  Company  refuspd- Prince  Makustkof, 
Imperial  Governor. 

1867-77— Military  occupation. 

1868— A  customs  and  revenue  collection 

330 


I 


WOyDERLA:SD 


N;l 


lliore  was  a 
n  eiico-uraged 

earcb  of  ricli 
.  others  were 
r  Sitka,  'rhe 
show  sigus  ot 

lever  officiary 
Ua,  the  peac^- 
lot  demand  Its 

of  gold  on  the 
eceiitly  or  ■  .^. 
urn  of  a  i    i;\^ 

American  w*-*'" 

rress  is  entirely 
Uich  have  been 

,qka.    This  was 

respect  to  the 

i     The  attempts 

States  to  secure 

L  at  Sitka  tnd 

The  valuable 

being,  despo^ed 

:enure  in  the  boU 

tbe  peri<jd  since 
the  jurisdiction 

„-e  find  a  steady 

ginning  with 
-  Vitvis    Benng 

:adiak  Island  es- 
seat  of  govem- 

^^Company  creat- 

-othcio  governors 

udcr  Baranof. 

,an  Far  Company 

Baranof.  Hagen- 

t82r>-Obri^tak- 

1836-Kaprea^no^ 
,'i>i\vodsKy. 


18G0 


Rur'siau-Amerioan 
r.  "nno  Makustkof , 


Priuce 


I 


^^KS  coltetiom 


district  established  with     a     co'lcctor  ia 
charge.  ^ 

1879— The  United  States  Navy  Depart- 
ment in  control  through  commanders  of 
vessels.  ^„„ 

1884— John  H.  Kinkead,  Nevada.  188» 
-  i.  P.  Swineford,  Michigan.  1889— Ly- 
man E.  Knapp,  Vermont.  1893-^7ames 
Sheaklev.  Pennsylvania.  1897— John  G. 
Brady,  Alaska.  United  States  Governors. 
It  was  not  until  May  17th,  1884,  eev- 
ottteen  years  after  the  cos^sion  and  seven 
ypiars  after  the  withdrawal  of  the  army 
that  an  organized  civil  vovernment  was 
ratab'.ished  under  a  specific  act  of  Con- 
gre-". 

The  leading  details  of  this  primitive 
form  of  "district"  government  I  have 
given  under  the  title,  "Alaskan  Possibili- 
ties." 

Under  the  act  the  Gove  nor  appointed 
by  the  President  administered  the  law 
under  the  Department  of  the  Interior  and 
made  a  report  each  year  upon  the  admin- 
istrative and  (economic  condition  of  affairs 
in  the  "district."  A  disti'ict  judge  tried 
cauvses  and  commissioners  at  different 
points  exercised  civil  and  judicial  func- 
tions. 

Beyond  this  the  executive  departments 
have  token  an  active  part  within  their 
respective  lines  of  official  duty. 

Under  the  Ti*easurv  Department  the 
customs  district  of  Alaska  was  established 
wi'^^h  tlie  i)ort  of  entry  M  Sitka  anil 
sub-ports  at  St.  Michael,  Unga,  Juneau, 
Unalaska.  Mary  Island.  Kadink,  Wran- 
cel,  Circle  City,  Cook  Inlet,  Kanik  and 
Dyea. 

Under  the  same  department  the  United 
StatevS  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey 
portrayed  both  Alaskan  .seas  and  Alnskar. 
coasts  in  a  series  of  excellent  charts  anc' 
mai>s. 

The  channels,  bays,  liarboits  and  coasts 
as  the  interests  of  commerce  require,  have 
l)een  buoyed  and  beacoiied.  The  beaming 
rays  of  the  light-houses  at  salient  iKjints 
on  tidal  waters  stand  forth  like  the  oti- 
flamme  of  civilization,  i>oioting  the  way 
in  a  portion  of  the  jrlolie  a  few  years  ago 
wrapped  in  solitude. 

LCI 


\  n 


t^'f, 


;■  iJ 


,■  t 


\t\ 


OUR  ALASKAN 

The  Revenue  Marine  Service  combined 
oflicient  official  duty  with  equally  effici«at 
research. 

The  War  Department,  through  the 
army  and  the  services  of  such  soldierly 
as  well  as  scientific  officers  as  Raymond, 
Schwatba,  Allen,  and  others,  have  con- 
ducted extensive  military  reconnoissancea 
of  Alaska,  as  to  the  topographical,  ethno- 
logical and  physical  resources  of  the  coun- 
try. 

The  officers  of  the  army  on  duty  durins: 
the  military  occupatioin  not  only  contrib- 
uted much  valuable  scientific  and  practic- 
al information  concerning  their  immedi- 
ate vicinity  but  the  ladi'js  of  their  fami- 
lies were  the  very  fort^most  in  efforts 
to  Obristianize,  educate  and  civilize  the 
ehi'dren  of  the  uatives  in  barrack  Sun- 
day, secular  and  sewing  schools. 

The  Navy  Department,  through  its  ves- 
sels of  war,  besides  patrolling  Alaskan 
waters,  extended  a  helping  hand  to  in- 
fant settlements  aind  in  opening  the  seal- 
ed book  of  Alaska  and  its  many  wonders. 

The  Department  of  Justice  weighed 
fairly  the  rights  of  individuals,  business 
ami  society  in  the  adjudication  of  causes. 

The  Post  Office  Department  extended 
the  convenience  of  its  mail  facilities 
wherever  the  growth  of  the  country  or 
the  interests  of  the  inflowing  population 
demanded,  whether  along  the  ocpan  front, 
on  the  islands  of  the  sea  or  on  the  banks 
of  the  Upper  Yukon  or  other  streams 
penetrating  the  interior. 

Over  the  Alaskan  and  Klondike  mining 
route  a  letter  mail  was  established,  leav- 
ing the  first  of  each  month  and  returning, 
carried  by  dog  trains  in  winter,  boats, 
canoes  and  on  the  backs  of  native  carriers 
in  srmnier  from  .Tuneau  by  Dyea.  Alaska, 
100  miles;  Dawson  City  (Klo^ndike),  575 
miles:  Fort,T-Mile,  52  miles,  and  Fort 
Oudahy.  1  mile,  in  Canada,  to  Circle  City, 
on  the  Yukon  in  Alaska,  240  miles,  mak- 
ing a  to*^al  of  d6H  miles,  eacli  way  requir- 
ing thirty  days,  for  which  the  contractor 
receives  $6,9'.^)  a  year  for  one  round  trip 
a  moiiith,  not  including  Canadian  offices. 
There  are  other  inland  routes.  There  are 
also  ocean  icmtvs  from  "the  States"  to 


WOXDERLAND 


rice  combined 
[ually  efficiwat 

through  the 
such  soldierly 
as  RaymoDid, 
!is,  have  con- 
>connoi88ancea 
iphical',  ethno- 
3s  of  the  coun- 

>n  duty  during 
:  only  contrib- 
ie  and  practic- 
their  immedi- 
of  their  fami- 
lost  in  efforts 
id  civilize  the 

barrack  Sun- 
:hools. 

hrough  itg  vg«- 
lling  Alaskan 
ig  hand  to  in- 
ening  the  seal'- 
many  wonders, 
iistice  weighed 
duals,  business 
ition  of  causes, 
ment  extended 
mail  facilities 
the  country^ or 
ring  population 
he  ocean  front, 
'V  on  the  banks 

other  streams 

londike  minini? 

tablished,  '.cav- 

and  returning, 

winter,   boats, 

native  carriers 

r  Dyea,  Alaska, 

IClondike),  575 

cs,     and     Fort 

,  to  Circle  City, 

>40  miles,  mak- 

ich  way  requir- 

the  contraictor 

one  round  trip 

anadian  oflSces. 

ton.    There  are 

tho  States"  to 


Sitka  and  i.itermediate  ;oints,  1,100 miles, 
five  timt'S  a  month  in  summer  and  twice 
a  month  in  winter.  $18,000  a  year,  and 
Sitka  by  way  of  Yakutnt.  Nutchek,  Hom- 
er. Kadiak,  Kaluk.  Sandpoint,  Unga  aind 
Belkof.sky  to  Umalaska,  1,516  miles,  four- 
teen days  and  back  once  a  month  from 
April  to  October  in  each  year  at  $4,9G6  a 
year. 

There  are  also  local'  routes  among  tne 
coast  stations. 

During  the  previons  times  at  Circle 
City  the  large  number  of  gold  miners 
concentrated  there  dei>ended  upon  chance 
to  send  out  letters  which  cost  .$1.00  eadi 
to  the  coast.  In  189(5  the  Government 
carriers  on  this  route  carried  more  than 
1,000  letters  on  a  single  trip.  Tlie  s.nme 
year  the  deDartraent  made  two  despatches 
by  steamer  of  newspapers  And  parcels 
from  Seattle  to  i>oints  on  the  Yukon  by 
way  of  TJnalaska  and  St.  Michael  and 
two  from   San   FraincLsco. 

In  1897,  for  the  convenience  of  interior 
settlements  an  interchange  wa.s  estab- 
lished between  Dy  a,  A'aska.  and  Dawsoiji 
City,  Canada,  and  a  joint  arrangement 
was  made  !>etween  the  United  States  and 
Canada  for  tho  trans|x>rtatioaii  of  ihe  mails 
between  those  points,  one  roumd  trip  once 
a  month.  In  winter  these  mails  mus'  be 
transported  hy  dog  teams  and  sleds  j.nd 
is  attended  with  a  de..Tee  of  hairdslrp  a  >d 
endurance  and  often  snPFc-ring.  prob.aWy 
unequalled   anywhere  in  the  world. 

Under  the  Department  .^f  th<»  Interio,^ 
the  office  of  education  out  of  th<»  Gov<»m- 
ment  appropriations  ranging  fpom  $15,000 
to  $50,000  since  188G  has  maintained  20 
day  schools  !n  ■IfTerent  parts  of  the  entire 
district,  with  ^rnnit  L.'^OO  p«piK 

It  also  intrfxlnceil  ami  enrried  to  .i  suc- 
cea«!fnl  solmiou  the  rein-letT  problem  as 
n  food  supply  and  means  of  Arctic  traus- 
Dortation. 

The  United  States  Geologinl  Survey 
nrodnced  throrigh  its  coriw  of  wientific 
«»r*-^-iflJ5st.'».  many  valuable  j*pt>rs  ujkmi 
the  ph\"pienl  r^  araf'teristics.  resounds 
and  wonder.*  of  Alaskan  land*. 

The  United  State's  Commission  of  Fish 
and   Fiis'tierie-  "    'I'v    investiK.''.ifd 


OUR  ALASKAN 


; .', 


<\>i 


O'i 


aad  oxploitt'd  the  enormous  existing  ami 
ever  roplonishiug  wealth  of  the  rivers  and 
seaa  in  fisii. 

The  Dei>artment  of  Agriculture  insti- 
tuted examinations  and  reported  u[K)n  the 
aarricultuiral  i>o»sibilitie3  of  Alaska. 

The  Smithsonian  Institute,  tbe  very  first 
in  the  field  of  scientific  inqnii-y,  evolved 
out  of  itfi  early  researches  fresh  acquisi- 
tiou«  to  tlio  realms  of  knowledge  from 
Alaskan  fields. 

In  every  branch  of  departmental  ser- 
vice in  the  absence  of  legislation  our  vast 
nortliorn.  Pacific  possessions  have  be<^n 
managed  with  efficient  administration 
and  scientific  zoal. 

And  prominent  in  our  summary  of  civil- 
izing influences  must  be  mentioned  ihe 
missionary  work  of  the  divers  religi'"u.*> 
faith*— Greco-Russian,  Evaingelical  and 
Roman. 

Tie  Evangelical  denominations  carried 
a  gospel  religion  consonant  with  the  alle- 
Eriance  and  i)rinciples  of  a  true  citu^en  of 
the  Republic  of  the  United  States  .  ito 
the  iglus  anil  villiiges  of  native  races, 
which  had  never  kiu>v,'n  any  form  of  re- 
ligion. Tlicy  c'llaliHslied  religiousi  sta- 
tions and  churches,  Sabbath,  day,  sewing 
and  industrial  schools.  They  co-oi>erated 
with  and  supi^lenicnted  the  efforts  of  the 
(Tovcniimcnt  Office  of  Education  by  the 
olficos  of  religion  in  olcratiiig  the  intel- 
lectual, economic  and  social  condition  of 
the  ab' I'igiual  i>t- >j».e. 

The  succi*ssful  labors  of  the  Russian 
Bishop  Veniaminof  among  the  Aleuts  are 
ai>parcnt  in  the  higher  standard  of  that 
aduatic  race. 

In  1877,  ten  years  after  the  cession  of 
the  territory  to  the  United  States,  the 
light  of  the  gospel  first  began  to  iiene- 
T.rate  the  Alaskan  darkness.  The  depth-, 
of  human  depravity  manifestiHl  in  exor- 
cising incantation.?,  tortures,  witchcraft, 
have  been  lesisencd  largely  through  mis- 
sionai"j^  effort. 

The  rising  generation  of  natives  in  South- 
eastern Alaska  along  the  Upper  Yukon, 
anil  even  in  the  frozen  Arctic  circle,  are 
rapidly  acquiring  the  language  and  read- 
ing' and  writing  of  the  United  States. 

334 


WONDERLAND 


s  existing  atul 
the  rivers  and 

ieulture  insti- 
orted  uixm  the 
Alaska. 

,  the  very  first 
qiiiiy,  evolved 

fresh  acquisi- 
Lowledge  from 

artmental  sei-- 
lation  our  vast 
nis  have  been 
administration 

nmary  of  civil- 
mentioned  ihe 
livers  religirus 
angelical    and 

lations  carried 

with  the  alle- 

true  cituen  of 

ed   States-    .  ito 

native   races, 

ny  form  of  re- 

religioiis   sta- 

th,  day,  sewing 

jey  co-oix'rated 

?  efforts  of  the 

iication   by   the 

itiiiiflr  the  intel- 

al  condition  of 

►f  the  Russian 

the  Aleuts  are 

aiidard  of  that 

the  cession  of 
etl  States,  the 
l>egan  to  pene- 
is.  The  depth"; 
fesftcvl  in  exor- 
•es,  witchcraft, 
y  through  mis- 

atives  in  South- 
Upper  Yukon, 
re  tic  circle,  are 
uage  and  read- 
lited  States. 


As  a  race,  tiio  natives  of  Alaska,  un- 
like our  other  aboriginal  popuJatians,  are 
eager  to  learn,  live  and  labor  like  the  civ- 
ilized white  man. 

Their  UTidoubtetl  Mongolian  origin  hav- 
ing boiii  in  them  habits  :  ml  ideas  at  var- 
iance with  the  methods  ami  customs  of 
American  citizens,  particularly  the  sak' 
of  daughters  by  their  parent*,  such  prac- 
tices have  been/  vigorously  combatted  by 
the  representatives  of  Chri«ti;in  influence. 

The  press,  the  guiiding  light  of  modem 
pi\>gi"ess,  bais  alread.v  taken  its  idaee  aloug 
the  frontier  linio  of  advancing  civilization. 
The  cupi.tali  Sitka  bas  its^  weekly  Alas- 
kan and  monthly  North  Star;  Juneau  bias 
its  weekly  Alaska  Mining  Record,  Alaska 
Ser.i'^h  Light  and  Alaska  Miner,  aind 
Fort  Wraiigel  itsi  montlily  Nortlieru 
Light, 

Donbtless  in  tbe  not  remote  future  we 
will  hear  the  sliiouts  of  Poinit  Barrow 
Aurona  Boa'^ialLs  by  Esikimo  newsboys. 

Tlien  it  will  be  about  t'me  to  unfurl  the 
star  spangled  banner  of  tbe  Republic  from 
th^  Nor  til  Pule.  S  ipyress  Canada  in  her 
irritating  policy,  aia  bid  defiance  to  the 
world  in  the  progress  of  peaceful  arts. 

A  consensus  of  opinion  in  otiicinl  and 
nnoilioial  c<vrrespondenc(''  from  Alaska, 
fhe  Pacific  States  and  all  sections  of  the 
Union,  indicate  that  under  the  impulse  of 
firold  and  other  sources  of  natural  wealth 
in  Alaska  a  large  influx  of  population  will 
take  place  in  the  immediate  futui-e. 

This  new  "nnsih"  will,  if  the  reports  re- 
ceived at  Washington  be  realized,  exceed 
in  fen'or  and  numbers  tlie  migra.tions 
toward  the  "El  Dorado"  of  the  Pacific 
during  the  <jalifornia  excitement  of 
"Forty-nin<?"  and  subsequent  stamjiedes 
for  the  golden  placers  and  lodes  of  the 
Pacific  Coast  and  Rocky  Mountain 
States  and  Territories, 

To  meet  this  sudden  exigency  of  an  enor- 
mous influx  of  i>opulation  in  a  rt^ion  im- 
preparod  by  a  home  supply  of  food  and 
raiment,  will  present  a  f^roblem  more  seri- 
fms  and  perplexing  than  the  Government 
and  local  conditions  have  ever  confronit- 
ed  in  the  United  States,  That  Congresa 
having  failed  to  afford  adequate  means 


OUR  ALASKAN  WONDERLAND 


I  t' 


,'i' 


of  admiudatration  for  such  numlK>rs  will 
be  broug'ht  fnee  to  face  with  a  jjrave 
crisis  is  apiJOTont.  That  so'-^e  of  tlie  elo- 
meats  of  tlhiis  great  mass  of  humanity,  ir- 
ritated by  disappointment,  if  not  crazed 
by  hunger  and  expended  funds,  will  re- 
sort to  diaonler  and  force,  is  natiual  to 
BUTJpose.  A  solitai-y  Governor  and  a  lone 
.iud^e  undofr  sueh  conditions  is  likely  to 
emphasize  the  past  apathy  of  the  national 
law-makers. 

The  population,  by  the  census  of  1800, 
stated  at  32,052,  has  l)een  largely  aug- 
mented owing  to  the  discovery  of  valu- 
able mines  and  development  of  other  re- 
Bonroes.  The  new  towns  and  villages 
wihidb  have  sprung  up;  the  extension  of 
trade  and  the  starting  of  new  industries, 
led  to  the  act  of  June  4th,,  1897,  making 
temporary  proyisions  for  the  emergency 
by  the  creation  of  fonr  additional  Com- 
missioners. On  June  24th,  same  year, 
a  surveyor  general  was  provided  for  and 
an  additional  land  office  created. 

The  Seci'etairy  of  the  Interior,  in  his  re- 
port for  1897  i"eeommended  the  extension 
of  the  public  land  lawTs  to  the  district,  the 
creation  of  additional  land  offices,  the 
granting  of  rights  of  way  for  railroads, 
telegraphe  and  telephones,  the  cotnstruo 
tion  of  roads  and  trails,  the  incorporation 
of  muinJcipalities,  the  holding  of  elections. 
the  definmg  of  the  legal  and  political 
status  of  tble  natives  and  the  establish- 
ment of  complete  territorial  government, 
with  repreaentation  in  Congress. 

The  Secretary  also  sugigested  the  divi- 
sion of  Alaska  into  two  teiTitories,  the 
coast  country  from  the  southern  bouind- 
ary  to  the  mouth,  of  the  Yukon,  including 
the  islands*,  to  form  one  government,  and 
the  pemaining  portion  the  other. 


J=, 


,-;  > 


336 


w 


RLAND 


nmnbors  will 
with  a  jji'ave 
i^iQ  of  the  ele- 
£  humanity,  ir- 
if  not  crazed 
funds,  will  re- 
,  is  natural  to 
nor  and  a  lone 
na  is  likely  to 
of  the  national 

ensus  of  1890, 
a  largely  aug- 
overy  of  valu- 
Qt  of  other  re- 
?  and  Tillages 
e  extension  of 
lew  industries, 
,  1897,  making 
the  emergency 
iditional  Com- 
:h,  same  year, 
ovided  for  and 
eated. 

?rior,  in  his  re- 

l  the  extension 

;he  district,  the 

ad   offices,    the 

for  railroads, 

the  comstruc- 

e  incorporation 

tig  of  elections. 

and   political 

the  establLsh- 

aJ  government, 

ngress. 

ested  the  divi- 
territories,  the 
>uthern  bouind- 
ikon,  including 
>vernmeat,  and 
other. 


kLi 


i 


h\  I  i 


('  1 


.  ii\' 


m  h, 


4  \ 


0 


'I'll! 


?  I     / 


^ 


"ILL  HBOIieD, 


II 


WMj^^ 


\ 


-o — i- 


K^^i 


N 


\A 


I     U 


-Si 


X  t 


Id 


LETTER  NUMBER  XXX. 


R  a  i  Iway-Ocean-R  iverRoates 

U  Coast  Range  Portals  and 

Yukon  Gateways  to  Alaskan 

and  Klondike  Gold  Fif'lds. 


The    New    Centnry    World-Ronnd 
Journey  for    American  "Olobe 
Trotters"— From  Washing- 
ton   to     St.    Petersburg, 
Paris  and  London  via 
Alaskan  Ronte. 


The  Ponnsyl'vania  Railroad,  like  the 
Streat  Commonwealth  from  which  it  takes 
its  name,  is  the  Keystone  of  the  magnifi- 
cent system  of  railways  which  connects 
the  metropo'itan  cities  of  the  Atliaatic 
seaboard  with  the  lines  extending  still 
westward  fi-om  the  Great  Lakes  and  the 
'Mississippi  River  to  the  shores  of  the  Pa- 
cific. It  may  well  be  accepted  as  the 
standard   railway  of  America. 

It  is  the  most  central  of  the  Eastern 
truLk  lines  to  Chicago  and  St.  Louis, 
where  the  journey  across  the  continent 
actually  begins  and  over  its  own  lines 
and  through  those  co-operating  with  it  al- 
most any  portion  of  the  American  Con- 
tinent, ill  railroad  or  steamer  touch  with 
the  rest  of  the  world,  may  be  rp*ached. 
339 


IMAGE  EVALUATrON 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


i 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


|50     ""^ 


2.5 


22 
2.0 


WUu 

U   111.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


I 


/>< ' 


I' 


) '  m 


^\ 


i 


' 


OUR  ALASKAN 

A  g'ance  at  th<»  outline  map  will  show 
the  imimenae  facilities  of  intercourse  open 
to  the  trave'.er. 

From  the  Atlamtic  seaboard  metropolis, 
New  York,  it  requires  four  tracks  to  ac- 
commodate its  esionu/ous  business.  At 
Priladelphia,  the  manufacturing  metrop- 
olis of  the  Union  it  has  accommodatioins 
for  travel  and  traffic  unrivaled  in  the 
world. 

Its  route  also  lies  through  the  most 
populous,  wealthy  and.  scenicaHy  pic- 
turesque CJommonwealths.  Starting  a  I 
New  York,  it  traverses  New  Jers'^.v, 
Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  Indiana  and  IlUnoia. 
It  also  passes  through  some  of  the  finest 
cities.  Its  service  and  the  speed  and 
safety  of  its  trains  are  unrivalled  in'  the 
world.  It  is  equipped  <with  the  finest 
roadbed;  the  heaviest  steel'  rails;  all  thu 
modern  improvements  in  block  signals 
nod  other  appliances.  It  has  the  largest 
and  best  locom'Olives  built  and  tht>  lateet 
and  best  coaches  and  sleeping  and  buffet 
cars  designed. 

The  Pennsylvania  Limited  is .  without 
a  peer  in  the  railway  train®  of 
the  world.  It  is  composed  exciuMvely  of 
Pullman  vestibule,  di<a'wing-room,  state- 
room, sleeping,  dining,  smoking  and  ob- 
servat.on  cars,  each  a  miniature  palace 
om  wheels. 

The  run  from  New  York  to  Chicago  is 
24  hours:  912  milee.  To  St.  Ivouis,  30 
hours;  1.065  miles. 

Thie  Philadelphia  &  Reading  Rall<wiay, 
one  of  the  very  first  steam  railways  built 
in  the  UnitPd  States,  through  its  Bound 
Brook  route  to  Philadelphia  and  thence 
oveir  one  of  iibs  numerous  branches  throug'b 
Central  Pennsylvania,  connects  for  the 
West  at  either  South  Bethlehem  via 
Bethlehem  branch,  or  at  Allentown,  via 
£}ast  Penn  branch;  at  either  place  oon- 
nectin^  with  the  Lehigh  Valley  Railroad, 
thence  to  Buffalo^  w'here  connections  are 
made  with  either  the  Grand  Trunk  (Ca- 
nadian) system  or  the  Lake  Shore  and 
Midhigiin  Southern,  New  York,  Chicago 
&  St  Louis,  or  Michigan  Central  Rail- 
roads for  diicago  and  the  West.  Through 
340 


ji   'Vi| 


.'.'''  f' 


map  will  show 
itercourse  open 

ard  metropolis, 
r  tracks  to  ac- 
buslness.  At 
taring  metrop- 
ccommodatioins 
rivaled   in  the 

>ugh  the  most 
w?enicaMy  pic- 
Starting     at 

New  Jers-».v, 
la  and  Illinoi». 
le  of  the  finest 
e  speed  and 
irivaUed  ia  the 
ith  the  finest 
1  rails;  all  the 
block  elgaaU 
bas  the  largest 

and  thi^  late£t 
)ing  and  buffet 

ted  is .  withooit 
ly  trainis  of 
exolurively  of 
ig-room,  state- 
loking  and  ob- 
niature  palace 

to  Chicago  ia 
St.  Tjoaie,  30 

dinsr  Railiway, 
railways  built 
iigh  its  Bound 
ia  and  thence 
uiichea  throug<b 
inecte  for  the 
3<>thJehiein  via 
y lento wu,  via 
her  place  com- 
illey  Railroad, 
oninections  are 
id  Trunk  (Ca- 
ke Shore  and 
STork,  Ohicapo 
Ceotral  Rail- 
Test.  Through 


WONDERLAND 

sleeping  cars  for  Buffado  and  Chicago 
leave  '^e  Reading  Terminial,  Piii'ladel- 
phia,  twice  daily. 

At  Karrisburg  it  aJso  has  connections 
with  the  vast  Pennsylvania  system  above 
described. 

The  road  is  double  tracked  with  steel 
rails,  stone  ballast,  and  has  the  latest 
equipment  iu  fast  locomotives  and  pas- 
senger, parlor  and  sleeping  cars. 

At  Ohioago  and  St.  Louis  there  is  a 
choice  of  lines,  wdth  all  of  which  the 
Penusylvania  system  has  direct  connec- 
tions and  selk  through  tickets  with  Pull»- 
man  service  irom  New  York,  Philadel- 
phia and  'at  a'.l  the  principal  statioois. 

Prom  Chicago  the  Chicago  &  Northr 
western  and  Chicago,  Milwaukee  and  St. 
Paul  have  a  service  to  St.  Paul  and  Min- 
neapolis on  the  Mississippi  aind  to  Omaiha 
on  the  Missouri.  St.  Louis,  over  the 
Missouri  Pacific,  also  has  a  service  to 
Kansas  City,  283  miles,  and  Omaha,  488 
miles. 

At  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis  there  ia 
also  a  choice  of  twj  main  routes,  the 
Great  Western  to  Seattle,  1,823  miles;  to 
Portland,  Ore.,  1,925,  or  by  way  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  to  the  same  poimts  and 
San  Francisco. 

From  St.  Louis,  by  way  of  Kansas 
City  or  Omaha,  the  Union  Pacific  carries 
through  passengers  to  Kansas  City,  to 
San  Francisco,  2,093  miles;  Portlamd,  2,- 
050  miles;  Tacoma>  2,196  miles;  Seattle, 
2,214  miles.  From  Omaha  to  San 
Francisco,  1,867  miles;  Portland,  1,824; 
Seattle,  1,987. 

The  St.  Louis  aiid  San  Francisco 
"Frisco  Line"  has  through  service  from 
St.  Louis  over  its  own  and  conmecting 
lines  to  San  Francisco,  2,460  miles,  and 
Portland,  3,104. 

The  Southern  Pacific,  from  New  Or- 
leains,  has  a  service  via  El  Paso,  1,194 
miles;  Los  Angeles,  2,006  miles;  San 
Francisco.  2,489;  Portland,  3,261. 

The  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  from  its 
United  States  connections,  also  reaches 
ou'tfitti'-'?  steamer  ports  of  the  United 
States  on  the  Pacific. 

From  the  Pennsylvania  system  a  coo- 

341 


OUR  ALASKAN 


.; 


■!l  {■ 


nectioD  is  made  at  OhJcaxo  for  St.  Paul. 

From  St.  Paul,  at  Pocrtal,  on  the 
frontier  line  'between  the  United  States 
and  Assdnibola,  Canada,  a  diBtmice  of 
560  miles,  a  through  connectlan  is  made 
with  the  Oanadian  Pacific  ©ystem  to 
Vamcouver,  Britif^  Oolumibia,  2,906 
miles,  a»d  United  States  points;  Seattle. 
3,000  miles;  Portland.,  3,185  miles;  San 
Francisco,  3,957  miles. 

The  approximate  average  Sipeed  of 
tran£»e<rvntinental  trains,  including  trans- 
fers &3d  stops,  ia  20  mile»  an  hour,  and 
on  ocma  steamers,  inclfudiug  decays  at 
point'  en  route,  7  miles  an  hour.  The 
coet  of  railway  travel  is  from  2  to  3  cents 
a  mile. 

It  is  customary  to  obtain  steamer  rates 
by  correspondence  with  the  ofl5ce  at  the 
point  of  sailing. 

It  ia  not  necessary  to  go  back  to  the 
period  of  the  "Forty-Niners"  of  Caiifor- 
nia  in  order  to  draw  the  contrast  between 
the  vast  savage  haunted  wilderness 
known  as  the  Western  plains,  the  Rockies 
and  the  Sierras,  and  the  same  rei^om  to- 
day parceled  out  into  14  States  and  Ter- 
ritories of  the  American  Union  and  tra- 
versed hy  a  network  of  steam  highvi^aye  of 
travel  and  traflSc. 

The  Alaskan  and  Klondike  gold  seeker 
will  cover  as  much  or  more  ground  in  one 
hour  in  the  railway  coaches,  parlors  and 
sleepeTB,  in  this  year  of  Grace  than  did 
the  "over'and  emigrants"  of  1849  and 
nearly  two  dectades  later  in  their  buMock- 
power  "prairie  schooner","  or  on  horse  or 
mnle  back  on  their  way  to  California  in 
a  'whole  day  from  dawn  to  dark. 

The  Pacific  const  cities  of  Siaw  Fran- 
cisco, Portland,  Tacoma  and  Soajttle  are 
the  sailing  ports  a.:''  the  outfitting  post"? 
for  prospectors  and  miners  of  Alaska  and 
Klondike. 

Parties  for  the  gold  fields  reach  Jun'cau 
or  Dyea  for  either  of  the  pass  routes, 
Ohilkoot  or  White,  between  the  middle  of 
March  and  end  of  April.  During  this 
period  they  can  do  their  own  tramaport- 
ing  om  sleighs  drawn  by  themselvea  over 
the  summits  to  the  lakes. 

The  Pacific  steamer  sailing  dates  by 
342 


»  for  St.  Paul, 
ocrtal,  on  the 
United  States 
a  diBtance  of 
ection  is  made 
c  eystem  io 
lumibia,  2,906 
Kwnts;  Seattle. 
85  miles;  San 

ige  speed  of 
icluding  trans- 
9  aD  hour,  and 
ling  de'ays  at 
an  hotir.  The 
Mn  2  to  3  cents 

1  steamer  rates 
le  oflace  at  the 

go  back  to  the 
srs"  of  Caiifor- 
>ntrast  between 
ted  wilderness 
Ins,  tbe  Rockies 
same  region:  to- 
Stateg  and  Ter- 
Union  and  tra- 
im  high^^ys  of 

like  gold  seeker 
e  ground  in  one 
IPS.  parlors  and 
Grace  than  did 
of  1849  and 
n  their  buMock- 
'  or  on  hoTse  or 
o  California  in 
to  dark. 
i  of  Saoii  Fraii- 
and  Seaittle  are 
outfitting  posts 
9  of  Alaska  and 

Is  reach  Juneiau 

iP  pass    routes. 

n  the  middle  of 
.  During  this 
own  transport- 

themselvofl  ovor 

ailing  dates   by 


WONDERLAND 

announcement  ai-e  from  San  Frandsco, 
Cal.;  Portland,  Ore.;  Tacoma  and  Seat- 
tle, Waab.,  U.  S.,  and  Victoria,  Britisb 
Columbia.  The  first-class  railway  fajre 
from  Chicago  to  these  poinfts  is  about  $62 
on  any  of  the  direct  lines,  first-clase^  and 
$52  second-class. 

The  Pacific  coast  steamship  company 
single  fares  ran^^  from  San  Francisco, 
first-claes,  to  Wranjgel,  $37;  Juioean,  $44; 
Sitka,  $52;  Paget  Sound  portb,  Wrangel, 
$25;  Juniean,  ^;  Sitka,  $40.  Steerage, 
a  trifle  over  one^balf  nrst-ciaas  rates. 
MealR  and  berths  or  'bunks  included. 
Freight  rates,  general  merchandise  and 
minens'  oxdiuary  supnlies,  Ska^uay,  Dyea. 
and  Sitka,  about  $12  per  ton^  The  same 
rates  approximately  apply  to  Tdya 
(Dyea),  and  Skoguay. 

United  States  mail  steamer  conaiectiou 
8ail«i  from  Sitka  to  UnoLa^ka. 

The  North  American  Transportation 
and  Tnading  (the  Goyemment  fur  seal 
contract)  Company  steamers  sail  from 
Seattle  to  St.  Michael,  fare  aibout  $125 
to  $150.  Thenice  their  Yukon  fleet  of 
liver  boats  depart  at  short  intervals  for 
the  trading  stations  and  gold  fi^ds  of 
the  Upi>er  Yukon.  At  Weare,  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Tanana;  Rampart,  near  Min- 
ook  Creek;  Fort  Yukon,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Porcupine;  Circle  City,  at  the  port- 
age to  the  Birch  Creek  Mines,  and  Belle 
Isle  in  Alaska  (United  States);  Fort  Oud- 
aihy;  Fortjr  Mile  and  Dawson  City,  North- 
west Territory,  Canada,  fare  about  $100 
to  $150  from  St.  Midhael,  and  about  $50 
less  for  second-<!lass. 

The  Alaskan  Commercial  Company  dis- 
natches  steamers  from  San  Francisco  to 
St  Michael  end  operate  a  fleet  of  five 
river  boats  on  the  Yukon  at  the  same 
rates. 

There  is  also  an  irre^ilar  service  of 
"tramp"  steamers. 

In  all  cases  first  class  includes  meals 
and  berths,  and  second  class  meals  and 
bunks  on  steamers. 

These  lates  are  approximate.  Any 
changes  are  more  likely  to  be  lower  than 
hisrher. 

343 


i\ 


<  I. 


OUR  ALASKAN 

There  are  also  Alaskaii  tourist  routes 
at  reasooaible  round  trip  rates,  coausuming 
about  35  dam  Tlie  inlaind  routes  from 
San  Franoiaco,  Portland  or  Seattle, 
amon^  tlxe  islainds  of  tlie  British  Colum- 
bian Coaflt  presents  a  beautiful  pano- 
ramic view  of  spruce  and  fur  cavered 
mountains.  As  the  steameo*  crosses  the 
54-40  parallel  and  enters  Southeastern 
Alaska  and  the  iauumerable  islands  of 
the  United  States  Alexander  arcbipelat^o 
the  scene  changes  to  a  monx  Alpine  ap- 
marance.  The  higrher  mouatains  ere 
canned  in  snow  and  alon^  the  shores  grow 
sub-Arctic  plants  and  flowers. 

Beyond  we  reach  the  glaciers  of  Glacier 
RflT.  the  Malaspina  Sea  of  Ice  and  Mt. 
St.  Elias  "Corner  Stone"  at  Yakulat  and 
across  the  gulf  of  the  Aleutian  Islands  at 
Unalaska,  with  an  excursion  to  Bogeslov 
volcano,  40  miles  distant.  This  trip  may 
be  extended  to  St.  Michael  and  the 
Yukon.  The  round  trip  from  Sitka  to 
Unalaska  is  about  $120.  The  round  trip 
from  St.  Paul  by  the  North  Pacific  to 
Portland  or  Seattle  is  about  $90,  subject 
to  change.  This  includes  meals  and 
berths  on  ocean  lines. 

The  excuirsion  season  begins  in  May 
and  ends  in  September, 

The  most  convenient  during  the  three 
months  of  open  season  is  the  all  water 
route  from  San  Francisco  by  way  of  Un- 
ala^ka  to  St.  Micluiel,  the  shipping  port 
of  the  Yukon  trade  and  thence  to  trad- 
ing stations  and  mining  centers,  along  the 
river. 

The  distance  is  3,139  miles  from  Port- 
land to  St.  Michael,  500  miles  from  St. 
Michael  to  Circle  City,  350  miles  thence 
to  Forty-Mile,  and  50  miles  thence  to 
Dawson  on  the  Klondike. 

The  entire  distance  is  ajccomplished  by 
ocean  and  river  steamers  between  June 
and  September  at  reasonable  rates  and 
facilities  for  transportation  of  supplies 
and  freight  with  no  toil  or  trial  to  the  in- 
dividual. 

There  exists  an  overland  summer  route 
from  St.  Michael  along  Norton  Sound  to 
the  Unalaklik  River,   where  there  is  a 
344 


WONDERLAND 


1  tourist  routes 
ates,  coausoiniiiK 
liod  routes  from 
id    or    Seattle, 

British  CJolum- 
beautiful  pano- 
nd  fur  cDTeretl 
mer  crosBes  the 
srs  Southeastern 
rable  islands  of 
ider  archipelago 
moti-e  Alpine  ap- 

mouatains   ore 

the  shores  grow 
jeers, 
aciore  of  Glacier 

of  Ice  and  Mt. 

ait  Yakulat  and 
jutian  Islands  at 
sion  to  Bogeslov 
.  This  trip  may 
diael  and  the 
>  from  Sitka  to 

The  round  trip 
forth  Pacific  to 
xmt  $90,  subject 
>des     meals  and 

begins  in  May 

iuiring  the  three 
s  the  all  water 

o  by  way  of  Un- 

le  shipping  port 

thence  to  txad- 

;enter»,  along  the 

miles  from  Port- 
)  miles  from  St. 
350  miles  thence 
miles  thence    to 

accomplished  by 
rs  between  June 
aable  rates  and 
ition  of  supplies 
or  trial  to  the  in- 

nd  summer  route 
Norton  Sound  to 
(There  there  is  a 


Swedish  Mi&sicm,  and  thence  by  way  of 
Utukuk  and  the  Autokakat  or  Kaltag 
rirers  to  the  Yukon,  a  distance  of  104 
iniles.  which  makes  a  leeseuiing  of  861 
miles  in  the  distance  to  the  mining  cities 
an  the  Upper  Yukoui,  as  compared  with 
the  steam  route. 

This  cut-ofP  will  doubtless  be  utilized, 
if  developments  wnrrant,  as  it  will  escape 
the  ice  gorge  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yukon 
ainid  makes  a  difference  of  sevuval  weeks 
nnd  Dossibly  a  whole  season  in  the  ascent 
of  the  river. 

These  lines  from  San  Francisco,  Port- 
land and  Seattle  run  in  conmection  with 
tie  three  moet  used  and  accessible  coast 
range  passes  to  the  headwaters  of  the 
Yukon  and  thence  to  the  gold  towns  and 
oamps. 

The  Ohilkoot  Pass  over  the  coast  range 
is  the  shortest. 

The  traveler  starts  at  Dyea  and  tramps 
over  the  gravel  of  a  broad  valley  to  the 
foot  of  the  Gbilkoot  Pass;  thence  up  the 
uarrowing  valley  to  Sheep  Oamp,  five 
miles.  There  the  asceM  begins  over 
rocky  and  sometimes  boggy  mountain 
sides  with  glaciers  in  view;  thence  over 
ereat  ma'sses  of  rock  and  boulders  tiixee 
iniles  to  the  sunumt  of  the  pass.  About 
1.000  feet  of  the  last  part  of  the  dis- 
tance stands  at  an  angle  of  45  degrees, 
then  800  feet  more  not  so  steep.  The 
hand  sleds  ai'e  often  pulled  up  by  the 
miners  splicing  their  ropes  and  the  end  to 
a  windlass.  The  heighit  of  the  pass  sum- 
mit is  3,800  feet. 

The  descent  to  Lake  Lindemann  on  the 
inland  side  maltes  a  fall  of  1,300  feet  in 
9  miles. 

The  paas  is  unsuited  to  the  use  of  ani- 
mals of  burden  other  than  the  Ohilkoot 
Indians,  who  charge  from  30  to  40  cents 
a  pound,  each  packer  carrying  100 
notmds.  They  requii-e  two  days  going 
and  one  returning  over  this  distance,  24 
miles. 

Some  idea  of  the  trials  of  this  portion 
of  the  journey  and  the  patience    requir- 
ed m/ay  be  formed  when  It  ia  known  that 
a  l.OOO-pound  outfit  of  a  single  man  re- 
345 


OOB  ALASKAN 


S 


€-^ 
)ll),' 


h'  ; 


I    Ml)' 


nu'ires  fully  30  (lny«  to  move  over  the 
nasa  on  account  of  the  lack  of  truiisiwrta- 
tlon. 

It  is  cuatomai-y  for  the  lueui  to  cany 
their  ow»  gooda  in  detaehnienits,  about 
overy  hmndred  poimds  reqiiirin^r  a  trip. 
Daring  the  winter  this,  as  weJl  a«  othei* 
nam  rotites,  is  practically  impoKsablc  on 
ncoount  of  aaow  and  fierce  stoions  Inst- 
intr  for  weeks.^ 

Once  ODi  the  other  side  the  partiee  build 
their  boats  out  of  the  wood  they  cut  in 
the  neigcbborhood  a<nd  convert  into  plauloi 
with  a  whip  saiw.  They  are  then  ready 
to  start  when  the  ice  moves  in  the  ]akes 
And  rivers  leading:  into  the  Yukon.  From 
Lake  Bennett  to  Fort  Selkirk  is  850 
miles:  thence  to  Klondike  is  172  miles; 
thence  to  Circle  City  in  the  Alaskan 
mines. 

There  ar»  projects  to  overcome  this  se- 
vere atretoh  of  paas  by  means  of  tram- 
wavs  and  other  m<ecbanjcal  appliances, 
but  the  capacity  is  limited. 

Tbe  White  Pass,  over  the  same  range, 
besrina  at  the  some  point  in  Dyea  Inlet, 
bat  follows  the  Skagauy  River  to  the 
eaiflrt  and  unites  at  Tagish  Lake  through 
Summit  and  several  other  small  lakes  and 
water  courses  and  Taku  arm  of  Tagish. 

The  same  difficulties  are  encountered  in 
getting  o^'e^  this  pa.ss  aiS  at  Ghilkoot. 
This  itass,  howevea",  has  been  improved 
bv  the  expenditure  of  a  little  laboa*.  It 
is  claimed  that  $50,000  would  construct 
a  wagon  road,  which  would  greatly  reduce 
rates.  From  the  coaet  to  the  summit  is 
17  miles,  5  miles  being  nearly  level,  9 
miles  of  canyoov  3  miles  of  easy  climbing 
to  a  2,600  foot  sinmuit.  On  the  other 
side  is  am  easy  descent  Into  the  valley  o** 
the  Yukon  through  Summit  and  several 
umall  lakes  to  Taku  Arm,  making  a  total 
distance  of  35  niiles  fro^p  the  staa-ting 
point  on  tide-water,  thence  into  Tagish. 

Th0  thiird'  of  these  paose*,  reached 
from  the  head  of  tide-water,  oni  Lynn 
Oanal,  is  the  Ohilkat.    The  natives  claim 

346 


'? 


WONDERLAND 


thia  to  be  the  best  because  lower  and 
wore  open.  Its  atarting  point  is  from 
Prraimid  Hnrlwr  on  the  we«tei-n  inlet  of 
tiie  e?i  al,  and  in  entirely  over  laind,  strik- 
In'g  Fort  Sellcirlc,  172  miles  from  Klooi- 
dlke.  It  pusses  thi'ough  a  grass  coaiivtrj' 
in  sunimer  and  has  been  uised  for  cattle 
driven  to  the  Russian  posts.  The  dis- 
tance is  co\'ei-ed  in  12  daya 

The  eixK'tion  of  saw  mills  at  Lake 
Bennett  will  greatly  lessen  this  part  of 
the  labor.  Boats  can  also  be  bought 
there  to  cain-y  niinei's  and  tlicir  outfits  to 
(lAStinoftiom.  At  Seattle  suitable  boats 
"knocked  down"  con  be  had  and  trans- 
norted  and  init  together  on  the  lake. 
Thev  i-eeemble  the  old-time  baiteau.  The 
difficulty,  however,  is  the  transportation 
over  the  passes. 

Thie  miners  with  their  effects  in  the 
Ixiiat  or  on.  a  raft  drift  dawn  the  cuirrent 
to  Foi't  Selkirk,  350  miles  pa^ss  through 
K(nne  very  dangerous  navigation. 

The  features  of  the  river  from  Linde- 
mntiu  to  the  Yukon  mining  regions  of 
Klondike  and  Alaska  are  given  in  the 
vli.'imer  '*A  Wonder  of  Rivei»," 

TLe  Taku  route  starts  at  the  tiirlfty 
town  of  Juneaiu,  following  the  Taku  and 
other  rivers  into  Lake  Atun,  whence 
there  ie  an  easy  portage  to  Lake  Ta^iah, 
where  this  iv>irte  unates  with  the  GhUkoot 
and  White  Pass  routes  and  contimies 
down  the  Yukon.  This  line  is  withoiuit 
heavy  grades.  Sleds  oan  be  drawn  over 
it  in  winter. 

The  distance  from  Juneau  to  the  helad 
of  canoe  navigation  on  the  Taku  is  91 
males.  Portage  to  Lake  TeaILn  48  miles; 
thence  to  the  Lewis  by  wiaAer  170  miles. 

The  Sitickeen  route  has  been  greatly  im- 
proved by  the  Canadians.  That  govern- 
ment having  been  granted  free  transit 
over  that  inortion  of  tie  Stickeen  River 
lying  witMn  United  States  jurisdiction 
in  consideration  of  slmilair  privileges  to 
the  citizens  of  the  United  States  navi- 
gating the  St  Lawrence.  British-Cana- 
dian steamers  make  Wrangel,  at  the 
month  of  the  Stickeen,  their  destination 
for  this  rout<\     Thence  passengers  and 

347 


0£7B  ALASSiS 


III 


i^i. 


•I 


m 


merchandise  are  transforred  to  stern- 
wheel  river  steamers,  which  ascend  the 
river  150  miles  to  TelegMpli  Creek. 

Thenoe  the  oJd  trail  leads  150  miles  to 
Lake  Te«lin,  where  the  Hootalinqiie  or 
TeelMi  River,  navigable  foir  amaJl  steam- 
ers, oommunicates  with  the  Upper  Yukon 
through  the  same  water  channels  as  the 
Chilkoot  and  Whiiite  Passes. 

Owing  to  the  swift  current  of  the 
Stickeen  it  requires  two  weeks  to  aecend 
and  but  two  days  to  descend,  being  often 
capstnined  onie  way  and  going  setem  fore- 
miotat  the  other.  The  voyage  is  both  novel 
and  exciting.  The  Teslin  enters  tlie 
Lewis  Yukon  through.  Th".rty-Mile  River 
and  below  the  dangerous  rapids. 

At  Calgtory  the  Oaniadian  Pacific  has  a 
branch  to  Edmonton,  in  Alberta  Canada, 
from  which  poinit  a  portage  route  extends 
to  Athabasca,  landing  at  the  head  of  the 
river  and  into  the  laJke  of  that  name  via 
Ports  McMurray,  Obippeway  and  Smith. 
Thence  through  Sto.ve  River  into  Great 
Slave  Lake  at  Fort  Resodution;  thence 
across  that  lake  to  Port  Providence; 
thience  down  the  Mackenzie  River,  pass- 
Lng  Ports  Simpson,  Norman  and  Good 
Hope,  within  the  arctic  circle  to  Port 
MacPherson  near  the  bend  of  the  Mac- 
kenzie Delta;  thence  by  a  short  portage 
io  the  head  of  the  Porcupine;  thence  infci 
the  Yukon,  below  the  Klondike.  This, 
however,  ia  a  long  and  circuitous  route. 

T^re  is  also  a  trtiii  from  Ashcroft  on 
the  Canadian  Pacific  to  Telegraph  Greek, 
B.  C,  the  Stickeen  River  route  to  tihe 
Yukon  mtines'. 

The  Governor  of  Alaska,  a  man  of 
long  exi)erience  in  Alaskan  life  and  re- 
gnirements,  in  his  official  report  for 
1897,  ^es  an  outfit  of  food,  utensils. 
tools,  impJeuDentB,  etothlng  w^-apons, 
ammuniti<>n,  boat,  sleepii^g  articles,  rub- 
bers, tent,  etc.,  for  two  men  for  fourteen 
months  at  Sitka  prices,  the  total  of  which 
i0  $372.60. 

All  these  routes  pass  into  British  terri- 
torrity  at  the  ten  marine  league  line  from 
the  coast  of  Souitheatstem  Alaska. 

It  must  not  be  overlooked  that  all  pros- 
348 


WOyOERLAND 


pectOTS,  minens  nnd  others  crosain^  the 
Oajaadian  frontier  must  pay  a  duty  of 
from  10  to  35  per  cent,  ad  valorem  on 
articles  not  purcbaj*ed  in  CanAdn. 

During  1896-7  the  Canadian  Govern- 
ment allowed  free  entry  of  miners' 
blanket»,  pearsonal  clothing  in  use,  cook- 
ing uteiisils  in  use,  and  190  pounds  of 
food  for  eoidh  person,  charging  duty  on  the 
excess. 

This  has  been  superceded  by  levying 
duty  upon  everything  the  miner  possesses 
except  the  clothes  on  his  back.  Tliis  ap- 
plies to  artides  bought  not  ouily  in  the 
United  States,  but  Engliaiud  or  anywhere 
outside  of  Canada. 

As  minens  going  in  are  not  as  a  rule 
overstocked  with  fundis,  some  heroic 
measures  on.  their  part  may  be  anticipat- 
ed sooner  or  later  for  which  the  Govern- 
ment and  people  of  the  United  States  will 
be  compelled  to  find  a  solution,  if  the 
ruslhi  continues  and  popuilatioa  incrense:). 

It  is  claimed  tlioit  these  rigorous  dutiois 
are  exacted  in  order  to  make  the  neces- 
sary civil  establishment  guards  and  trans- 
ports for  godd  in  the  region  self-support- 
ing, and  which  will  be  of  great  service  to 
the  miners. 

The  Canadians  hastily  established  a 
post  at  Ivake  Lindemauii  on  the  trans- 
mountain  foot  of  Chilkoot  and  beyond 
Summit  Lake  foot  on  the  White  Pass 
routes,  not  to  mention  the  Chilkat, 
Taku  aaoxJ  Stickeen  routes  over  other  por- 
tions of  the  CWst  range  to  the  head  of 
eanoe  navigation  toward  the  Yukon. 

At  TagLsih  Lake  a  detadhment  of  the 
Canadian  moTinted  police  is  stationed. 

About  18  miles  beyond  on  the  Chilkoot 
and  32  miles  by  the  White  Passes  is  the 
60th  paraUel,  which  marks  the  northern 
boandary  between  British  Goltimbk  and 
the  northwest  territory  of  Canada. 

This  may  force  the  irrepressible  con- 
flict between  Briifcishi  occupation  and 
United  States  manifest  destiny  on  the 
Pacific  shores  of  the  North  American 
continent  so  emphatically  upheld  by  Sen- 
ator Charles  Sumner,  of  Massachusetts 
and  William  H.  Seward,  of  New  York. 
349 


OVX  ALASKAN 


'2/» 


m 


1  j' 


ami  niauy  other     8tati>isuK>ii     givat  and 
HrmUI. 

It  is  true  similar  custoiQs  obstructiouH 
arti  met  wiith  by  iiersons  onteriiiff  UnJted 
StaJtas  territory  frotn  tbe  British  Oaia- 
•lito  or  Oodlumbia  jurisdiction,  but  not  vo 
tlic  jHuue  deerrec  us  the  articles  purchased 
i)i  tlie  United  Sta,tcR  'and  btv)ugbit  bock 
would  not  be  dutiable  under  the  law  an<1 
godd  is  free. 

"Whj  can  tell  the  limits  of  the  d'^mands 
of  tb^  "American  Globe  Trotter."  Aieepy 
Europe.  Modbuiul  Asia  and  Darkest 
Africa  in  all  their  coatiirieci  of  hunmn 
Itabi'ation  were  satisQed  with  birth>  ma- 
turity, procreation  and  death  within  the 
Itent  up  limitia  of  tlieir  own  pertty  {mtch  of 
MoiUuT  EaPth.  Tlie  American  n'ants  the 
earth  and  he  gets  it  becausi'  ho  prnys  for 
what  he  geits 

The  Amjcricau  tourist  roultt-H  now  eu>- 
lirace  the  globe  fiMui  Cancer  to  Gapri- 
cam,  the  Tempera  tp  zones,  niud  even  in- 
vade the  icy  solitudcia  of  the  Arctic  and 
Antarctic  Circles. 

With  sudhi  facts  e«rta>blisched  it  would 
not  be  an  extrawngance  to  aay  that  the 
<lawn  of  the  Twentieth  cenitury  will  wit- 
ness the  "American  Globe  TVoitter"  cm 
tlie  golden  wiaigs  of  "American  Eagles" 
eireumvenrting  time  end  distance  on  this 
tAn'restial  sphere  by  a  world-round  route 
with  ferry  ooomedtionis  over  the  Pacific 
and  Atlantic  Seas  froim  the  capita]  of  the 
Republic  of  the  West  to  the  capital  of  the 
Kiiipire  of  (the  East  ond  thence  to  the 
onpiitals  of  Elurope  and  home  again,  nl- 
wiiys  facing  westward. 

And  here  we  have  it.  "American  Globe 
Ti"otter"  roirto  aroirad  the  cap  of  th* 
e<vfth. 

United  States  Railway  system  in  opera- 
tion, Washington  D.  C,  U.  S.  A. 

Miles. 

To  Ohicago,  111.,    808 

To  Portland,  Ore.  (2,375  m.),..     3,183 
U.  S.  Ocean  seiTice,  Pacific  Ferry- 
To  Unalaska,  U.  S.  (2,345  m.), . .     5,528 
To  Vladivostok,  Siberia,  (2,340 

m.) 7,868 

Russian  Siberian  Railway,  nearly  com- 
pleted— 


WONDEKLAND 


yivat  and 

obstructious 
ei4n«  Uaite<l 
^tiah  Ooia- 
1,  biit  not  u> 
ies  puirchttsed 
l>wughit  b«ck 
'  the  law  ann 

the  d  ^mands 
tter."  oi«ep>' 
uid  Darkest 
10  uf  human 
ith  birth,  ma- 
th within  the 
potty  iwtch  of 
can  wants  the 
»>  ho  iwys  iov 

MiltcH  now  em- 
leor  to  Oapn- 
,  jiaid  even  in- 
the  Arctic  amd 

Ifthed  it  would 
o  say  that  the 
nitury  wiU  wit- 
ke  Trotter"  oii 
erlcaa  Eagles 
istanoe  on  this 
rid-round  rout«> 
ver  the  Pacific 
le  capital  of  the 
le  capital  of  the 
thcnaoe  to  tht> 
iome  again,  al- 

American  Globe 
the  cap  of  th* 

vstem  in  opera- 

U.  S.  A. 

Milea- 

808 

75  va.),' '     3,183 

ific  Ferry— 

45  m.).-  •     5,528 

^.■..'■^.     7,868 
•ay,  nearly  oom- 


Vladivostok  via  Omfsk:  Kha- 
barovka;  Sretonsk  My  '.; 
IrkwtBk;  Obi  TohellnhlD  ic 
UraJ  Moumtain,  frontier  i>/" 
RiiBsia,  7,112  versts  or  4.71'» 

miles 14.980 

Rnropean  Railway  nyster      a  operation— 
To  St.  Petersbur)?  via  .»lo«cov 

(1,353  m.) 10.333 

Berlin  (l.(H2  m.) 17,37f. 

Parts  (008  m.) 18.073 

liondon  via  Oalais  (277  tn)..  .    .   18.350 

IJv.'npool  (202  ra.) 18,.'j62 

U.  S.  (5cean  service  .\tlantic  Ferry- 
New  York  city  (3,100  m.) 21,052 

U.  S.  Railway  system  in  ()peratiou— 
Washinirton,  D.  O.  (228),  total..  21,870 
This  ronlte  may  be  made  available  in 
the  year  1900  with  the  lines  uow  in  opei'a- 
tioo  and  the  Trans- Siberian  Railway,  the 
larger  portion  completed.  The  rest  being 
pushed  with  vigor. 

A  possible  but  not  probable  within  the 
near  finture  all  rail  route  is  outlined  from 
Ponthind  via  Soaittle,  U.  S.,  Vancouver 
and  Dawson,  B.  O.,  Circle  City,  Capo 
Prince  of  Wales,  U.  S.,  Bering  Straits. 
in  Lat.  05  N.;  East  Oape,  about  3,<X)0 
miles  and  1  hence  to  Albazen,  Russian 
Siberia,  2,500  miles. 

At  this  point  this  route  would  inter- 
sect the  V';iadiv<«tok-Tolieliabinsk  Siber- 
ian line  nearly  completed. 

The  route  begins  in  Lat.  38  degrees,  52 
minutes,  at  Washington,  and  reaches  its 
greatest  northing  at  St.  Petersburg,  Lat. 
05  N.  The  circnimference  of  the  earth  at 
the  equator  is  24,809  miles.  In  geodetic 
line  along  the  50  latitude  it  would  be 
about  18,000  mile». 

The  time  consumed  mighit  be  forty,  but 
including  the  usual  delays  would  proba- 
bly consume  sixty  days. 

At  an  early  day  It  wiH  be  the  fad  of  the 
traveling  American  public. 

The  route  can  be  made  to  take  in  all 
Alaskan  coast  points. 


TABLE  OF   DISTANCES-STATUTE  MILES. 


( 


|! 


By  Railway. 
New  York  to  San  Fran- 
cisco,     3158 

S.  F.  to  Portland 77a 

P.  to  Seattle 124 

N.  Y.  to  Seattle, 3290 

By  Steamer. 
Seattle  to  St.  Marys    I., 

Alaska 65s 

St.  M.  to  Wrangle,     ...    153 

W.  to  Junear., 152 

J.  to  Dyea, 100 

By  Steamer. 

Seattle  to  Sitka 860 

Sitka  to  Juneau 160 

S.  to  Dyea 193 

S,  to  Yakutat 220 

S.  to  Nutschk,  Pr.Wm's  S.  450 

S.  to  Kadiak 550 

S.  to  Sun  Rise,  Cook  In., .   785 

S.  to  Ungra 874 

S.  to  Uualaska 1278 

S.  to  Attu,  extreme  West 
Aleutian  Islauds,  .  .  .1820 
By  Stsamer. 
San   Francisco    to    Una- 

laska, 2345 

Seattle  to  Uualaska, .  .  .  1955 
Un.  to  Seal  Island,  Prib.,  240 
Un.  to  St.  Michael,  ...  750 
Un.  to  Cape  Prince  Wales,  816 

Bering  Straits 816 

Un.  to  Point  Barrow,    .  .1346 

By  River  Steamer. 
St.  Michael  to  Mo.  Yukon ,  90 
St.  M.  to  Holy  Cross,  .  .  310 
St.  M.toNulato,  ....  505 
St.  M,  to  Mo.  Koyukuk,  .  525 
St.  M.  to  Mo.  Tauaua,  .  .  708 
St.  M.  to  Rampart  (Mi- 
nook),  775 

St.  M.to  Shaman's  Vill.,  855 
St.  M.  to  Mo.  Porcupine,   995 

St.  M.  to  Circle 1075 

St.  M.  toCud£.hy,  N.W.T.,  1264 


St.  M.  to  Forty  Mile,  N. 

W.  T 126s 

St.  M.  to  Dawson  (Klon- 
dike), N.  w.  T 1313 

St.  M,  to  Stewart  River, 

N,  W.  T .  .  .  1374 

St.  M    to  Mo.  Pelly,  Ft. 

Selkirk 1425 

Pass  Routes,  Chilkoot. 
Juneau  to  Dyea, .  ....  118 
D.  to  Hd.  Canoe  Nav.,  .  .  6 
D.  to  Summit  Pass,  ...  114 
D.  to  Hd.  h.  Lindeman, .  123 
D.  to  Foot  h-  Lindeman.  127 
D.  to  Hd.  I,.  Bennett,  .  .  12S 
D.  to  Ft.  L.  Bennett, ...  153 
D.  to  Caribou  Crossing,  .  156 
D.  to  Ft.  Lake  Tagish,  .  173 
D,  to  Hd.  Lake  Marsh)  .  17H 
D.  to  Ft.  Lake  Marsh, .  .  197 
D.  to  Hd.  of  Canyon,  .  .  223 
D.  to  Ft.  of  Canyon, ...  234 
D.  to  Hd.  White   Horse 

Rapids 225 

D.  to  Tahkeena  R 240 

D.  to  Lake  Le  Barge,    .  .    266 

By  the  White  Pass. 
Juneau  to  Skaguay  R.,    .    114 

S.  to  White  Pass is 

W.  P.  to  Hd.  L.  Le  Barge,  129 
Here  Pass  Routes  Unite, 
Dyea  to  Hd.  L.  Le  Barge,  284 
D.  to  Hotalinqua  R.,  .  .  316 
D.  ta  Cassiar  Bar,  ....  342 
D.  to  Big  Salmon  R.,  .  .  349 
D.  to  Little  Salmon  R.,  .  385 
D.  to  Five  Finger  Rapids,  444 
D.  to  Rink  Rapids,  ...  450 
D.  to  Pelly  R.,  Ft.  Selkirk,  503 

D.  to  White  R., 5.9 

D.  to  Stewart  R.,    ....    609 
D.  to  Dawson  (Klondike),  67S 

D.  to  Forty  Mile 728 

D.  to  Cudahy,  .....    72S 
D.  to  Circle,  Alaska, .  .  .   89S 


^1 


Wf 


85S 


kTUTE  MILES. 

Forty  Mile,  N. 
1265 

Dawson  (Klon- 
«f.  w.  T.,  .  .  .  .  1313 
>  Stewart  River, 

r., 1374 

)  Mo.  Pelly,  Ft. 
: 1425 

JTE8,  CHILKOOT. 

0  Dyea 118 

,  Canoe  Nav,, .  .  6 
nmitPass,  ...  114 
.  h.  Lindeman, .  123 
)t  I,.  Lindeman.  127 
.  I,.  Bennett,  .  .  12S 
L.  Bennett, ...  153 
■ibou  Crossing,  .  156 
LakeTagish,  .  173 
.  I,ake  Marsh)  .  178 
Lake  Marsh, .  .  197 
.  of  Canyon,  .  .  223 
of  Canyon, ...  224 
d.  White  Horse 

t 225 

hkeenaR 240 

ke  Le  Barge,  .  .  266 
HE  White  Pass. 
oSkaguayR.,  .  n; 
lite  Pass,  ....  is 
Hd.  L,.l,e  Barge,  129 
fvss  Routes  Unite. 
Hd.  L.  Le  Barge,  284 
(tallnqua  R.,  .  .  316 
ssiar  Bar,  ....  342 
?  Salmon  R.,  .  .  34'? 
:tle  Salmon  R..  .  3S5 
ve  Finger  Rapids,  444 
nk  Rapids,  ...  450 
[lyR.,j?t.  Selkirk,  503 

hite  R 5-9 

ewart  R.,  ....  609 
iwson  (Klondike),  67S 
irtyMile,  ....  728 
idahy,  .....  728 
rcle,  Alaska, ...   898 


